Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda 626

1313234363767

Comments

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    But I got the following services:

    1. CV Axle replacement.
    2. Alignment
    3. 120K Maintenence checkup
    4. Replacement of spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, crankshaft seal, cam seal, and antifreeze.

    I thought the cost was high, but maybe it wasn't so bad.

    I got this mechanic by asking my local dealership if they knew of a mechanic who used to work for them who set up an independent shop. Their referral was excellent.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    No, that sounds cheap actually. I think I'll use an independent next time. Good idea.

    -juice
  • I'm the guy with the '93 626 whos doors wouldn't stay locked but well thanks they lock if I hold in the handle as I lock it so that's all fine except on the driver side, rear door, the door lock nor the power window don't work. At first I thought the window was frozen but that door must have some electrical problem. A bit annoying, gotta make sure no smokers sit on that side since they can't open the window. :)

    Is this likely something simple to fix or expensive to fix?
  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    I have a 93 626 also. Few years ago, the power window switches in the driver's door quit working. At first I though it was a faulty switch module. After spending $120 of labor, the tech at the dealer figured out that the pins in the wiring harness which connects the door with the door frame were corroded. He pulled out the corroded pins and replaced them. The harness itself is very expensive to replace as it comes in a set (male and female sides). I am glad the technician was willing to fix it instead of replacing the whole thing.

    The corrosion is probably due to the fact that the car was hit on the driver side and the body shop probably did not do a good job when reinstalling the door after repairing it. The rubber boot was not covering the harness entirely allowing moisture to enter. After the pins were replaced, I used some black silicone to seal the gap and it has been working ever since.
  • I own a 97 ES Auto with 63K on the clock. I'm about to go in and get the timing belt done. Also though, I 've been getting a pretty bad vibration (front wheels throught to the steering wheel) at speeds above 60mph, with it almost disapearing by 80mph. Is this a result of poor wheel balancing or a tire irregularity? The alignment is dead on, and at lower speeds everything tracks fine? Any ideas on what this might be?

    Next item:
    I know that the low profile tires on the car (Eagle GT's - replacements) are going to ride rough, but this car seems feel every bump and imperfection in the road. The car handles confidently, in fact it is one of it's best quality's - but the ride is not well damped in the least. Is there anything obvious I can do for this? I believe the shocks and struts to be in good shape as well.

    Lastly, what maintainence should I be doing at this 63K point besides the timing belt to keep this puppy running for another 60k?

    Thank you in advance for all the advice.

    gstern1994@cs.com
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    We just had the front wheel hub and bearing replaced, and it was producing a sound that went "chunk chunk chunk" and varied with speed.

    Before that we had an axle boot that tore, and the axle grease leaked out and got noisy, too. You can inspect the axle boot visually to see if it's OK.

    It could also be tire/wheel balance, or uneven tire pressue. The latter could also be causing the stiff ride.

    -juice
  • Rotate the front tires to the back and vice versa and see if it goes away or is substantially changed. If so, you've got a tire/wheel combination a tad out of balance. (It's possible that one tire is out of round, but this is less common; still, if it is, better to have it on the back.)

    Tire pressure is semi-critical on these cars: 35 psi is about as high as I'd go up front, maybe 32 psi for the rear.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    These are recommendations in addition to the recommended schedule in the owners manual. I've found that following these procedures minimizes unnecessary repairs.

    1. If any cam or crankshaft seals are leaking when you change the timing belt also get them replaced. Change at 120K regardless.

    2. If the seals are good, change over to Valvoline Maxlife. Reduces oil consumption, sludge, and specially conditions seals to hopefully last to 120K. My cam and crankshaft seals went at 110K and required duplicate repair. Maxlife is a cheap way to help ensure that they can last.

    3. I always change out the Brake and Power steering fluid every 30,000 miles.

    4. Change transmission fluid every 15K with automatic, and every 30K with manual. Recommend adding Lubegard to preserve transmission integrity, condition seals, reduce acids, and lower operating temperatures. Recommended by my Mazda specialist mechanic.

    5. Check struts for leaks. If they leak replace them immediately.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If the tire balancing shows them to be in balance, and alignment is correct, in my opinion you need to look at suspension issues.

    Have a mechanic with steering components expertise intensively inspect the following: wheel bearings, control arms, A arm, tie rods, ball joints, struts and strut mounts. One or more components may be worn out. When I bought the car at 60K I had a similar vibration and ignored it for 40 thousand miles. Big mistake. We wore out some non-wearing components like the power control arm on one side. Expensive. Don't wait.

    My Mazda has a much better road feel without jarring when I switched to KYB g/2 struts. The original Struts were leaking. They are softer initially, but really firm up in harsher conditions when needed. I like the ride much better. Responsive, and can feel the road without any jarring.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I really liked the restoration of power when I spent a little over $100 for a pressurized fuel injector cleaning. I will now do that at least every 60K.
  • You guy's are terrific. Thank you for all the advice. I went in to Just Tires today to see if they could put my tires through the balancing gauntlet to see what if anything was the matter with them. This blew my mind - They told me all four rims (alloy) were mishapen and not rolling as true circles. I watched them put two of the wheels on the machine, and when they turned, they did appear to be spinning slightly awkwardledly, but it was hard to guage really. What are the odds of this really being the case, or the shop trying to point me in the direction of aftermarket wheels? I had them put the front tires on the rear for the hell of it, but the car rides the same, vibratory and harsh. I think I'll take mrdetailer's advice, and have the suspension looked at for failure. Maybe there is a combination of problems. I'm beside myself right now, how could each wheel be so screwed up? I'll keep you guy's posted. Thanks to all who contributed to my maitainence questions, I've just printed out all of the posts to keep on hand.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Are there lots of potholes near where you live?

    -juice
  • The roads aren't great, but not all that bad either. I live in a suburb of Washington DC. Go figure.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Me too. We have one rim that is very slightly bent. Not enough to leak air, but I notice it.

    If you have the 55 series tires, the profile is fairly low, so there isn't much sidewall to protect the rims.

    -juice
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    That would tell me I need a second opinion.
  • Well it sounds expensive, so I think I'll leave it be.

    I posted on another forum about a fuel injection cleaning but several people said it usually wasn't worth it but it varies. Most of them just recommended to use the bottle of that stuff when you fill up your tank but my car has 129k miles and I'm pretty sure it's never been done and it really is bad accelerating from say 25-30 to 40-45.

    Could someone explain what's with the HOLD on a 93' Mazda 626 LX auto? There was only like one page in the manual about the shifter, but I don't understand what HOLD is about, and why some of the arrows are in red and white and stuff, and there is 1,2,3 next to L,S,D, respectively. Thanks!
  • It changes the shift pattern.

    Normal:
    D - 1, 2, 3, 4
    S - 1, 2, 3
    L - 1, 2

    HOLD engaged:
    D - 2 (briefly), 3
    S - 2
    L - 1

    For people who want all the functionality of a proper manual without actually having one, I suppose.
  • Hey folks!
    'New to this board. I crashed my 97 Protoge last week and after some hurried shopping wound up with a 626 rental return with 10,000 miles for $12,900. It's an LX 4 cyl automatic. Pretty basic. A little underpowered but I prefer the better mileage. I'd have bought a 5 spd. but couldn't find one. I'm looking for a few accessories. Has anyone tried the Mazda Discount parts website? I ordered winter flloor mats from Mats4less.com. I still need some mud guards and am wondering if any one makes a bug shield. Any help would be appreciated!
    -Luther
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    10k miles for $12,900? Wow, nice deal.

    -juice
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    2001 626LX 4 Cyl w/ automatic with 21,500 miles.
    Exactly one year old (yesterday).

    Started shifting funny this morning on the way to work. When I got to work, (25 mile trip) I put the transmission into park and the O/D light started flashing. Now I have no reverse, it "slips" like crazy in all forward grears and the O/D flashes. I had hoped all the Ford transmission problems had been worked out by now, guess not.
  • Wow! What a downer! And only 21000 miles. At least it's under warranty. Keep up posted on whether they replaced the whole transmission or it is just a sensor or something. -Luther
  • I put in a bottle of some fuel injector cleaner a couple days ago when I filled up, but since Monday (put it in on Saturday), the car has been really loud. And I noticed it hisses loud and just plain sounds like hell. It's like the exhaust fell off or something lol. Is it uh normal for the fuel injector cleaner to do that?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The cleaner may have dislodged some sludge in the engine, so maybe it's coughing it up now. Wait another tank or two to see if it goes away.

    Bummer about the tranny. I hope Mazda uses the Jatco 5 speed auto from the MPV for the next Mazda 6 instead of the CD4E.

    -juice
  • Yah it really sounds like hell now. Maybe it's just a coincidence and the exhaust decide to go to hell all of a sudden. Its weird though, cause the service reciepts I got show new exhaust/work on it in 96, 98, and in 2001.

    I think I can take it to the place that worked on it last and they'll quickly take a look at it just to see if anythings wrong for free.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's worth checking.

    -juice
  • Hi guys. I just purchased a 95 Mazda 626ES w/ 115,000 miles and a new transmission. I have already replaced the tires(put on 195/70 r14), new fuel lines, and brakes. The car rides very nicely except for one problem. It shakes @ high speeds and hesistates when accelerating. But the car itself is in great condition for its age. Any tips or pointers any of you can offer? It would be much appreciated.
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    Yep....It's history.
    The dealer said they got a "bunch" of error codes from the transmission. It has no reverse or first. (I knew that!) The replacement is on its way and with a little luck I'll have the car back no later than Monday.

    Ford...Quality is job one!
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Are the Doubleought 5spds partialy/entirely Mazda?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    A major newspaper is looking to interview folks who learned how to drive stick in their adulthood, and either fell in love or hated it. Also welcome is any input on why people love to drive stick, and any unusual anecdotes about how you learned etc.

    Hope to hear from you before Feb 22 via the Talk to the Press discussion or at jfallon@edmunds.com with your thoughts and contact information.

    Thanks as always,

    Jeannine Fallon
    PR Director, Edmunds.com
  • Wow weak. I took it in and the mechanic said some pipe had a couple holes in it. It was some flex pipe, not a stainless steel. Again, there was just some type of pipe put on exactly 364 days before it went to hell, but it may not have been the same one like in the same place I mean.
Sign In or Register to comment.