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Mazda 626



  • A lot depends on whether you think the transmission is a time bomb. (If I had just arrived here and read the previous 600 messages or so, I probably would.)

    When I get to the end of the warranty on my 2000, assuming I haven't been seduced into a 2003 by then, I'll probably just get the tranny serviced and an auxiliary cooler installed (total cost - around $250) and take my chances with everything else. The $1000-1500 you'd pay for the extended warranty can cover an awful lot of service.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    Extended warranties can be agreat thing if the dealer or independant you take your car to knows how to use it. Most warranty companies will say "no" right away just to just about any claim just to weed out the service writers who are weak and not willing to fight for the customer.I've seen the same company say yes and no to exact cases. Also having your car looked at by a technician instead of a mechanic can make you and the warranty co. aware of problems that you did not come in for.
    I have replaced many more waterpumps on v6's than on 4's %wise. BOth the 4 and 6 are great engines provided they are not abused and neglected.
  • I have a some stuff about Ext. Warranties and you guys just happened to be talking about it too!

    I recently bought a 4-cylnd 2001 626 (bought it in late May). I went ahead and purchased the extended warranty because I wanted that security/piece of mind and because of worries over the tranmission (bad experiences with Ford almost stopped me from buying the car all together). I got my extended warranty contract in the mail yesterday and it says I have to pay a $100 deductible per visit for repairs. This maybe a standard practice and it may not, I don't know, but the dealership never explained that to me, never mentioned anything about a deductable. We discussed different mileage lengths and different year length, never anything about a deductable. Is there anything I can do about this beyond complaining to Mazda?

    Also, the extended warranty contract doesn't make clear that my standard warranty is still in place, but I assume it is. I think a lot of this is ignorance over the whole subject...


  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Your factory warranty is still there. The extended warranty kicks in after the factory warranty expires. You may be able to return the warranty citing that it was misrepresented. Also, it's up to the dealer as Mazda has no say in what they sell or how they sell it.

  • The one time I had an extended warranty, it came with a $50 deductible; $100 doesn't seem too out of line, but they should have explained that up front regardless.
  • Thanks for the input guys.
  • bsahabsaha Posts: 7
    Hi Guys,

    I am in the market for a used car. This one is a 1998 Mazda 626 LE, with 54000 Miles. Dealer in Michigan is asking for $6,995. This is 4 cylinder with a stick shift. All standard options are present in the car.

    Need advice on 2 things.
    - Is this a good price.
    - Any particular problem that I need to be aware of, especially with the stick / clutch.

    Thanks in advance,
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    sounds like a fair deal...solid car
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    That price sounds like a wonderful price, almost too low. Edmunds True Market Value (TMV) gives an average dealer retail selling price of $9,300. Is it an LX or DX? The LX has power windows/locks/mirrors and cruise control, where the DX does not. Also, give the body a good look to ensure that it hasn't had any major body work. If everything looks good, definitely go for it!! The only problem with the 626 is the 4-cyl with automatic. The stick shift, as maltb said, is a solid car and should give you years of trouble-free use. That price is absolutely outstanding!!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Bsaha: sounds like a deal. Dealers in most states offer a 30 day warranty, and if so that would offer piece of mind.

  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    We bought a Double-ought 4 with a clutch and
    couldn't be happier. Being from a spread the salt
    state, our car visits the car wash 3X a month in
    the winter. You may want to take a closer look
    underside. Mechanically these babes are tough and
    with proper care and service 6 digits worth of mileage should'nt be unreasonable. Good Luck
  • korchmakorchma Posts: 12
    Your factory warranty is still there. The extended warranty kicks in after the factory warranty expires. You may be able to return the warranty citing that it was misrepresented. Also, it's up to the dealer as Mazda has no say in what they sell or how they sell it.

    I was tald at the dealership that the extended warranty kicks in immediately after you sign the contract, not at the end of your current warranty.
    For example:

    Now I am at 33k miles and still have 3 more years left from my original manuf. warranty.

    If I buy additional 5 years, I'll have 5 years left not 3+5=8 years !

    By the way, the quotes I've got are the following (with my 33k miles and Gold Mazda Protection Plan):

    6 years or 75k = $2900.00
    5 years or 60k = $2000.00
    4 years or 48k = $1500.00

    ... I am still thinking..
  • korchmakorchma Posts: 12
    In my previous message the
    "Your factory warranty is still there. The extended warranty kicks in after the factory warranty expires. You may be able to return the warranty citing that it was misrepresented. Also, it's up to the dealer as Mazda has no say in what they sell or how they sell it. "
    was a quote I was trying to respond to...
  • bsahabsaha Posts: 7
    Thanks, Everyone. Appreciate the feedback. I went to the dealer the same evening & found the car was already sold. Bad luck !!.

  • bsahabsaha Posts: 7
    Hi Guys,

    Sorry, I am back again this time with a different issue. I found another 626 LX with stick, 45,000 miles. When I drove it, the Check Engine sign was on. Dealer tells me, he filled up gas & did not tighten the fuel cap. There is a sensor out there which triggers the sign. Seems like all Mazda's have this problem.

    Please advice if any one's faced this problem.

    Thanks in advance.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    A loose fuel cap will trigger the Check Engine light on any vehicle outfitted with the OBD II or higher system (basically all vehicles sold in the US during the mid-to-late 90's). The Check Engine light will come on when the OBD computer has detected a malfunction or defect in the emissions system of the car. A loose fuel cap can allow fuel vapors to escape into the atmosphere, so it will trigger the system. Once the fuel cap has been properly tightened, the light should go off in a few days.

    I don't know how it is where you live, but in California, it is illegal for anyone to sell a vehicle with problems in its emissions system. This even applies to private sellers, and the seller is solely responsible for all finances involved in repairing the vehicle or the vehicle must be bought back and a full refund made.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It could be the gas cap, but it could also be a bad O2 sensor, or worse.

    The dealer should have the equipment to reset it rather easily. If he can't, then it's probably a more serious problems than he alleges.

  • When I bought my car, the dealer mentioned this problem, telling me that I needed to hear the gas cap click 2-3 times to be sure I had a good seal. He said it took Mazda years to figure out why the check engine light was coming on until they realized some people were leaving the car on while they filled it up (primarily in the north, during the winter). I knew somebody though who drove away from the gas station with a 2000 626 with gas cap hanging off and their check engine light never came on...
  • csuftitanscsuftitans Posts: 215
    Check out this drawings of the upcoming Mazda 626. Looks Great I think, will have a new 2.3 I4 and new 3.0V6. Hopefully this car is luxury enough to replca my 2000 Millenia S when the times comes, since I don't think Mazda will build Millenia's successor.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    "Atenza" sounds too much like a name Nissan would use. "Antheon" is even worse. Why not keep the numeric scheme?

    3.0l V6. Uh-oh. That wouldn't be a Ford Duratec engine, like the Tribute, would it? Watch, they'll mate it to the CD4E just to piss us off.

    At least Mazda will take charge developing the platform.

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