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Mazda 626

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  • I read the Haynes repair manual of my '96 626 L4 ATX and they recommend checking/adjusting the timing every 2 years. One of the steps is to "disconnect the shorting bar from the two-wire SPOUT connector located between the battery and the data link connector". It may sound simple, but I still have no clue which one of the connectors the SPOUT is. Anybody has any idea how the SPOUT connector looks like and (more precisely) where to look for it?
  • Does anyone know if my 1999 ES has one?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    no, it doesn't.
  • I think they carried that recommendation over from the early-80s models; it wouldn't seem necessary on a '96, and I certainly never needed it on the '93. (Of course, I didn't change my own timing belt, either, which may tell you something right there.)

    Anyway, a Spout connector is mostly rectangular, with a small square keyway molded into the top of it; normally there's a plastic doohickey stuck into it (which is your shorting bar). Generally it's between the fuse box and the battery.
  • Hi kids.....I am a Mazda tech of 15 years and I like to come into these sites once in a while (when I can) to see how things are going. Windowphobe seems to have things under control (I couldnt agree more with his opinions, and he seems to be well informed) and I was wondering if you have dealer experience windowphobe. (aside from the miserable task of buying a car!)
    I mean if you have or presently work at one. I have to let you all know that I actually owned a 99 ES4. It was Vancouver blue w/tan leather and moonroof, factory spoiler etc., it was a beautiful car. Had it about a year and traded it when I needed more room for kids. Although I was well aware of the inevitable trans issues that would come up, I was comfortable that my dealer rep would help me out no matter what the mileage. I also didnt care for the keyless remote not working with the car running but that was about the only thing I didnt like.
  • Hardly.

    And no, I'm not a tech, nor do I play one on television; it's simply that when I buy something I can't afford to replace on a regular basis, I try to learn as much about it as possible. And I'm on my second 626, so my anecdotal evidence is worth twice as much as the next guy's. :)

    There's one other issue with the keyless remote, if you ask me: the plastic ring that's supposed to hold it onto your key ring breaks too easily. I've killed both my original remotes already.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I've seen remotes that were broken but I've never had that happen to any of mine on my old 626 or the trucks I've had (similar Ford remote). do you fondle your keys under stress or does this happen as you fight over who is going to drive with your significant other?

    I guess Mazda sort of addressed the problem as the 6 uses remotes similar looking to the Millenia except they do say Visteon on the back (oh no!).
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Just saw an ad for our local Mazda dealer in the paper. They are blowing out the last of their 2002 626's. LX's, automatic, sticker $20,000 US & change for $14,000. I've been thinking of getting rid of my 94 626 and getting a late model used Maxima, but this is tempting.

    Dave
  • No significant other, either.

    I think maybe I'm putting too much stuff on the key rings, things are banging together, and the remotes are history.

    I bought a new remote at the dealership the last time I got an oil change and lost it before I ever got off the premises, so I'm starting to think that there's some bizarre force in the universe that wants me to use the key, the whole key, and nothing but the key.
  • After rebate, I paid $15,400 or so for my 2000 LX (sticker $19,575, plus I had them install a tape deck under the CD player), so this strikes me as a decent deal.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,706
    I'm not surprised they need to really slash the prices on these. I stopped by finally the other day and all I can say is WOW! The new 6s are incredibly sharp looking. Although they do look much smaller... could be just my imagination though. The 626 looks so outdated sitting next to one of these.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • The dash panel on my '94 626 is dead. The Check Engine Light, Brake Light, etc. are all dead when I turn on the ignition. However, I can start the car, turn on the headlights, but I can't shift into reverse. Any ideas as to which fuse is blown, or what the problem may be? Thanks
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    After taking a look at the leftover 626's and the new 6, I have to agree. The 6 does look smaller, though it might be an optical illusion. Everyting on it is in my opinion overstyled and oddly shaped, outside and in.

    My wife told me that she almost went and bought one of thsoe leftover 626's for me for Christmas. Guess I shouldn't have told her what a good deal they were... I'm planning on keeping the $2000 94 626 I got for a while yet. I had to put in a new radiator and hoses, but it keeps on running just fine. I keep waiting for something to go wrong with it, but it keeps going and going.

    Dave
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,706
    Can't shift into reverse?? What about other gears? I would think the two aren't related... but if you can't get into any gear, then maybe the switch that detects if you are stepping on your brake went out along with the dash. (????)

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • Solved, without much help from the likes of me. :)

    It's the METER fuse. In that year, when it goes, it also locks the shift lever, and you have to use the key to unlock it.
  • My wife left the spare key and remote in her jeans and threw it into the wash. Wondered what the thumping was in the dryer and lo and behold, there they were! :(

    Anyway, the spare remote is dead, but anyone know how well protected that key is? I mean, I know its sealed and should hold up in the wash (I hope/assume) but in the dryer under high heat for a good 45 minutes - that's another story. I don't wanna try it in the ignition, only to lock out my car..........
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,706
    Am I not following this? What is the question? Whether the metal key has held up through a dryer cycle?

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    Assuming your are talking about an immobilzer key, it wont hurt to try the key once in the car and see if the car stays running. if it doesnt work, bring it to the dealer and tell them it just quit working. (I am assuming you have another key) If your car is under warranty they will replace it. I would leave out the washer and dryer story.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,706
    is this one of those cards you plug in under the dash? Geesh, I didn't think anyone actually used those. ;)

    What year(s) did they put them in the 626, out of curiosity. hell, maybe mine had one and I never knew it...

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    to answer your question in post #1241, you just are'nt following this............by the way, what year 626 do you have? 70's? 80's? 90's?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,706
    i had a '98.
    Its since been traded in on a volvo.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    Your 98 was availible with an immoblilzer key which is a key with a "chip" in the black plastic part which is recognized by a sensor ring around the ignition lock. These keys arent cheap and we charge to reprogram them as well. Now you know why the other poster was concerned about having to pay!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,706
    never knew that.

    um.... wait.... but isn't the valet key a non-plastic top key??

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    because you didnt have the immobilizer option. The valet key on a car equipped w/immobilizer has a gray plastic end instead of black.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,706
    so it was an option. then i definitely didn't have it.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • I recently found a 2000 626 CD unit at a junk yard real cheap. 15.00!! Are the wiring harnesses utterly different or would it be as simple as plugging them in? Am I just better off going after market? 15.00 is tempting...

    Another thought ...can my Cassette unit and this unit exist at the same time in my console? THen I can still do my books on tape.

    THanks in advance!
  • hi guys. i recently bought a 2000 626 lx v6. and i love it..BUT i get this loud screech when i apply the brakes when the car has been sitting still for a few hrs. the noise goes away almost imediately but it does bother me. i'm asking for advice before i take it back to the dealer ..
    thanks any help would be appreciated.
  • Brake pads have a tendency to be something less than absolutely flat. It's probably just pad glaze, which will, of course, disappear after a couple of stops. When it doesn't disappear - that's when you worry.
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    I installed a Mazda CD player designed for the later model Mazda's into my '93 626. I had no problems once I was able to pull the original unit out. There was an extra grounding lead for the power antenna on the old unit that was not needed on the new one. Everything else just plugged right in. For $15 you cannot loose.
  • Thanks alot for the info ian18... based on your info I am gonna go for it!

    Thanks again!
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