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Mazda 626

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  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    Hope you all had a good 626 Day last Friday. That was the only 626 Day of the millenium--that is, 6-2-6, or June 2, 2006.

    How did you celebrate it? Did you do something special for your 626? Wash it, maybe? Or take it for a drive?

    Sorry to say I did none of these. :( I did fix its rattle in the back (sway bar bushings), but that was it. My son drove it to school, so I didn't even drive the car on Friday. It was pretty clean already, and rain was predicted for the weekend, so I didn't wash it. (The rain never came.)
  • juancho2juancho2 Posts: 1
    who knows about speakers brand BOSE for Mazda 626 year 1997?

    Thanks.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    Avoid breaking the side mirrors on a '98-'02 626! My son didn't watch out when backing out of the garage and knocked the driver's mirror off. Cost to replace it, including painting, is $418. Painting is about $100. I thought about doing it myself but decided to let them do it. I tried gluing it back on with epoxy but it didn't hold. :(
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Glad you reminded me - I almost broke my mirror off (and almost cracked my hip too) when I accidentally bumped into it on my 99 Mazda shortly after getting the car. My '92 Protege had folding outside mirrors. This user friendly feature has simply been eliminated on my 99 626 which has FIXED side mirrors. No doubt another "improvement" forced upon Mazda by Ford. I noticed that folding mirrors have been eliminated on a lot of Ford passenger cars too.

    I never noticed that they put fixed mirrors on the 626 when I test drove it before buying. If I did, I would not have bought the car.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    Yeah, it is not a positive trend. More and more mid-sized cars (e.g. new Camry and Sonata) have fixed side mirrors and in some cases no side moldings to protect from dings, all to cut costs. The automakers don't care--they don't have to replace the mirrors and fix the dings!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    And another stupid trend is elimination of a lock on the front passenger door side. My 626 still has one, but many new cars and trucks do not.

    But honestly, if manufacturers are cheap and want to cut costs, why don't they offer these features as optional equipment? I would gladly pay extra to get:

    remote release gas filler door (standard on my Protege, eliminated on the 626)

    folding outside mirrors (standard on 1992 Protege, eliminated on 99 626)

    full size spare tire (if the manufacturers at least provided enough space for a fullsize tire in the truck well I would buy one afterwards)

    passenger side door lock

    underhood emergency light

    I see dark green bands around tops of windshields disappearing on many new vehicles too. Those used to be standard in the past on most midsize and large vehicles.

    Some manufacturers, such as GM are so cheap that they do not even equip their full size trucks with plastic wheel well liners in the back. Nothing like painted bed sheet metal to absorb the salt spray and gravel flying from the wheels.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    When was the remote release gas filler door eliminated on the 626? My 2000 has one.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I do not know when, but my 1999 626 ES V6 does not have it.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    There were some tweaks for 2000, maybe that was one of them.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I had this happen to mine too. what happened was that one of the electric fans did not come on. As a result, the temperature of the coolant went up, and the A/C shut down. There are two electric cooling fans: a radiator cooling fan and A/C condenser cooling fan. Each fan has its own relay. Both fans turn on and run when A/C is operating. The two fans have different electric motors (available and replacable separately). Also, 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder have different fan motors. Therefore , it is difficult to find the right fan motor from an aftermarket supplier.
    In my case it was the condenser cooling fan motor that burned out. You can make sure it is the motor by unplugging the motor pigtail fromj the harness and connecting it directly to a 12V battery terminals with jumpers. If the fan does not run, the motor is shot. If it turns on, the problem could be the fan relay.
  • chacha62chacha62 Posts: 4
    My 01 626 is starting to act flaky. The air condition cools fine when I drive on the highway. The minute I come to a stop or idle at the light the temp starts to rise to H and the air begins to get warm. I had my system checked about 3 months ago no leaks. I can hear the fan come on and it lowers the temp a bit but temp doesn't go down until I start driving again. Thought about replacing the thermostat. Not sure where that is located. Also where are the fan relays located at. Any help will be appreciated.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    This describes the symptoms I had with a bad accessory fan (different car) pretty well. OK as long as I kept moving, but when I stopped the temp went up and the A/C shut down (as a preventative measure I expect). As I noted and p100 noted in response to an earlier question, a likely culprit is one of the fans in the engine compartment. There are more than one.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Start the car when cold, then turn the A/C on. Open the hood and see if both electric fans are running. Both must be running to provide sufficient cooling.

    Fan relays are located in front of the covered relay box on the driver's side in the engine compartment. do you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder? The access to the thermostat on a V6 is very difficult. Why do you think you have a bad thermostat? Most thermostat failures have to do with the thermostat sticking open. In this case it takes very long for the engine to warm up and the car never overheats. Seldom do thermostats stick closed, which would be the failure mode to explain overheating. It could happen, I suppose, but the cooling system would have to be very neglected and have a lot of scale and sediment inside.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Rather a lot of features were changed for '98: heater ducts under the front seats (for passengers in the rear) and the remote release for the gas-tank door were dropped, and the intermittent wipers were simplified (fewer speed settings). These were restored for 2000.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Are we talking about the lever on the floor by the drivers seat...or is there a button on the the plastic fob that
    unlocks doors and trunk lid? Another upgrade in the doubleought was the rear seat arm rest with drink holder
    and stash compartment.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes, the lever on the floor by the driver's seat. My '99 ES V6 has variable intermittent wipers, so I do not think they cut any corners on these. However, for the 99 model, ES V6 standard equipment fog lights and ABS brakes/traction controls were deleted as standard equipment. They still kept the oscilating dash vents and leather wrapped steering wheel/power sunroof as standard equipment. In 2000, or 2001, the standard power sunroof was deleted in the ES V6 models. Also, 2000 and up ES V6 models got 16 inch alloy wheels, instead of 15 inch I have.

    So it is a mixed bag of blessings. They add something, but delete a substantial piece of equipment, such as power sunroof.
  • knownotknownot Posts: 3
    I bought a used passenger side powered mirror for $80 dollars. A local salvage yard located it for me.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    Yeah, if I had more time I might have gone that route also. But given I had to have the mirror installed and painted also, and the car was undrivable without the mirror (legally anyway), I decided to go the dealer route. They did a very nice job on it anyway.
  • Hello folks, new here. My wifes Escort finally died and I was seriously thinking about replacing it with a Mazda 626. I have read some good things about the reliability but have read many horror stories about the trannys.
    The car I am considering is a 2001 626 4cyl with 81,000 miles on it. Do I have reason to worry about transmission problems? We live in Phoenix so it is harsh on motors/trannys. Any help would be appreciated we don't have a ton of cash to put in immediate repairs. Is there anything I should watch for on the test drive that might be a clue as to imminent tranny issues.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Check for an extra radiator(for tranny fluid) the previous
    owner may have already installed one...or look for a five
    speed. Our DoubleOught left-leg flexor has been trouble
    free. Good luck
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    If the Mazda transmission cooler hasn't been added yet, insist that be thrown into the deal (costs about $200). The head tech at the dealer where I bought my 626 said they have had good success avoiding auto tranny problems by adding the cooler.

    The other thing to check is to make sure the car has had its 60k servicing. It's a major (and expensive one) and includes timing belt replacement and tranny flush. When I bought my 626 with 84k miles I found out the service had not been done, so I insisted it be thrown in. If you can't find out for sure if it has been done, assume it hasn't (for negotiating leverage).
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Hey backy, did you get a chance to SEE your belt?
    I was curious about it's integrity at 84K?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    I didn't bother. I bought the car from a dealer so I just told them I had to have the complete 60k service including timing belt done to seal the deal. There's lots of other things in that service including the tranny flush and spark plug replacement.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Several things to look for. 5 speed manual ransmission is pretty much bulletproof (at least it is on my car at 150K miles). Unfortunately, the same cannot be said about the clutches, as the hydraulic clutch components like the master cylinder and slave cylinder tend to leak internally after so many miles and need to be rebuilt or replaced. When they start leaking, the car will be difficult to shift into the first gear and eventully the clutch pedal will sink to the floor and the car will not be driveable.

    Auto transmissions - as already mentioned, an external cooler is a welcome addition. V6 auto tranmsissions are much better and more reliable units as they are Japanese made and much sturdier.

    As far as 60k timing belt change period is concerned: on the V6 this service is very expensive. I changed my belt at 105K miles and the old belt still looked really good. (Mazda actually uses a 105K miles belt in all 626 cars). All three belt idler pulley bearings (V6 has three of them) were worn out so I replaced the pulleys. But not with Mazda OEM because their prices are outrageous($ 180 per pulley!)Auto Zone sells a complete timing belt kit made by Gates co. which includes all three idlers at a very reasonable price: $100). I still used the OEM Mazda belt.

    I changed the timing belt myself and the cost of parts from Mazda at 20% discount and pulleys from Auto Zone was still about $ 600. But I replaced also the $ 200 tensioner, timing sprockets, all three oil seals, and the water pump. Also, both front and rear valve cover gaskets.
    Which necessitated removal of the intake manifold, And replacing two intake manifold gaskets and the fuel line metal washer.
  • pchildspchilds Posts: 1
    Having the same problem. Did you get this resolved.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes. I was wrong in my initial assessment of the problem. The culprit was the leaking (internally) clutch master cylinder and/or clutch slave cylinder. Becuase of this, the clutch would not fully release, making shifting into first gear very difficult. Rebuilding the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder and bleeding the system solved the problem for good. The problem I had eventually got to the point where the clutch pedal would sink to the floor and the car was not driveable. At this point it was obvious what the problem was.

    Mazda offers rebuilt kits for both the master and slave cylinder for something like $ 20/piece, or you can buy replacement cylinders for $ 110 and $ 70, respectively.
  • Hello Guys,

    I have 63000 miles on my Mazda 626 LX, 1999 Model 2.5 liter 4 cylinders. I have not yet replaced the timing belt on my car and I was informed by the service people that this is very critical to be replaced. Mazda dealearship here costs around Cd$845.00 (canadian). This is the cost of 60,000 miles service on the car.

    Now I wanted to find out, if I should take this car to mazda dealership or any mechanic should be able to replace the timing belt. The local mechanic has given me a cost of almost half the amount.

    Will greatly appreciate any insight.

    Thank you..........
  • Yes that sounds good. I would get a slice of pizza with the money saved at thre local mechanic,maybe several pies for the whole team.
  • The belt is tricky to get to, but it doesn't require any Mazda-specific tools or anything like that; if your local guy is good, he should be able to handle this.
  • Thank you. Do you think that if my local guy is not good enough then is it possible that the car timings will be off. Or what exactly this timing belt do, is a very critical part and only experts can handle this thing.

    Thanks again.
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