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Mazda 626

16263656768100

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  • I don't get to check this message board as often as I would like so you can email me directly at: vansantf@usa.redcross.org
  • Here are the instructions for programming new remotes. I know they sound wacky, but it really does work.

    1. Sit in the driver's seat, driver's door open, all others closed.
    2. Do this three times: insert key, turn to "on" position, turn to "off" position, remove key.
    3. Push the driver's door ajar switch three times. Car will chime.
    4. Push any button on the 1st remote twice. Car will chime.
    5. Push any button on 2nd remote twice. Car will chime.
    6. Wait three seconds. Press door ajar switch one time. Car will chime.
    7. Remotes are now programmed.

    Note: Any previous remotes will no longer operate on this vehicle.

    I hope this helps.
  • white626white626 Posts: 5
    phroadrick
    Thanks for the instructions, I saw them when checking board after being away for a few days. I think I may have found some on ebay, they are cheap, so I will give them a try.

    slickdog
    My steering noise also happens only when it is warm in the interior. My son says it sounds like a litter of mewling kittens. It is quite annoying, but with the temperature in the 60's now it has been kind of quiet. My warranty is long gone, so I haven't had a dealer check it. There was a post in the problems section, but there didn't seem to be any resolution.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Since we're finally coming out of winter in my area, I'm getting the annoying steering noise back for the first time in several months (I like the litter of mewing kittens analogy).

    I've got some time left on my warranty, so I'm planning to get the car into the dealership so they can fix the aforementioned "rear-end tapping" sound which is getting worse for me as of late. Perhaps I'll ask them about the steering noise as well.

    I'm also seeing tears in my *third* set of vinyl shift lever/parking brake boots, so I think the dealer and I are going to have words about that too. Those should not be tearing every winter simply because I drive my car in sub-freezing temperatures (I'm now nearly convinced that's the cause). They're either going to give me leather boots or find a way to stop the vinyl ones from tearing, else I'm going to call the regional service rep. looking for a solution. The dealer keeps telling me that he isn't seeing this problem on anyone else's 626, but that's not going to make me go away and stop complaining.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Suggest you get leather boots and knob for your shifter and the parking brake. I have those in my ES V6 and they have not deteriorated at all in four years. And they look really nice. Mine are black and I am not sure what colors they are available in. The ES V6 also has a nice leather wrapped steering wheel that would look good even in a $ 70K car. This is one of the reasons why I bought an ES V6 - the LX V6 model had a cheap looking vinyl steering wheel and even cheaper looking vinyl shifter knob and boot.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Thanks, p100 - it's good to know that the leather is decent quality. However, I've already tried to get the leather boots as a warranty replacement, with no luck - the dealer tells me the cost difference between the vinyl and leather boots is too great for them to provide that sort of "upgrade" under warranty. I have even offered to make up the cost difference out-of-pocket, but the dealer seems unwilling to oblige - I would have to foot the entire bill. They probably figure I'll go away with my torn vinyl and leave them alone once I'm out of warranty. Perhaps I'll make another pitch for this solution when I go in for my next set of replacement boots. You're absolutely right about the vinyl stuff - it's poor quality.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    West-Central IL winters can get a bit rough and my
    Doubleought 5spd boots have failed in several places.
    So I can lend credibility to that statement.I'll have
    to look into some leather replacements.Would that ES
    wheel fit our LX?
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    skibry1, are you still under warranty? Let me know how you make out if your car makes it to the dealer before mine.

    My dealer already spilled the beans on the fact that ES (leather) shift/park brake boots can be used on an LX w/vinyl (I think you can also order leather for an LX, no?), so I'd bet that the steering wheels are interchangeable as well. I've removed steering wheels on other vehicles before, and not only are they usually interchangeable between different trim levels of the same model, but many are also compatible with (or even the same as) different models of the same make.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I have some minor vibration/roughness problems with my 99 Mazda 626 V6 at high speeds that appears to be comming from the axle CV joints. This vibration comes and goes and is not consistent. It is most pronounced when accelerating hard at high speeds and shows as slight shaking of the hood. I already had the axles replaced under warranty because the vibration was quite annoying at high RPM. The new axles eliminated that problem but after 35K miles they seem to begin to fall apart. I talked to several mechanics and was told that Mazda makes cheap CV joints and that I should not be surprised. Does anybody know of good quality aftermarket axles/CV joints that would fit this car? I am quite annoyed by poor quality of some of the critical parts in this vehicle. This car could be a great vehicle if the manufacturer had some decent quality standards.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    yeah, try getting GKN axles. They make them for a bunch of OEMs. Oh yeah, they make the 626 axles too.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    slickdog- The DoubleOught is out of warranty. Is it not a bit tricky to change wheels...what with that
    bag and explosive charge ?!?
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Yeah, plus you'd probably have to pay a mint just to get the leather wheel. My dealer claims the leather shift/park brake boots alone cost over $200!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The retail price for the 99 ES V6 leather wrapped steering wheel is $ 400. (Source: Mazda dealer). The wheel does not come with an air bag so you have to reuse yours.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    Can someone tell me which brand has better OIL, AIR and FUEL filter and why. I approaching the 60K mark and need to replace these. I heard some good things about Purolator PureOne(oil filter) but I also heard that filter is so densely packed that could restrict oil flow? What are your experiences with either brand?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    Use anything that fits. I buy pep boys filters. It does not matter if you replace it every 3000-3500 miles (and you should). I would switch over to a high mileage oil (as I have done) to keep the rubber parts working properly. The filter should not matter if you replace it with every oil change.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    Forgot to mention that I use mobil 1 and run 10K drain intervals so good filtration is important as well as filter capacity.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    Hmmm, I'm running Mobil 1 in my new Vibe, but am still changing the oil every 5,000. I asked a lot of mechanics whether I could do the 10,000 thing, and all of them said don't do it. Have you had good luck changing so infrequently? I'm using one of the Purolator filters. Again, I've been told that just about anything on the market should get you up to the 5,000 mile mark, but no more. You are smart to ask about a special filter for the 10k change. I hope someone a lot smarter than me can give you good advice. Good luck my friend.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I have used Purolator fuel filter in my 99 626 Es V6 with no adverse efects. I have used only Mazda oil filters to date. By the way does anybody know who makes these for Mazda? I have used regular Purolator oil filters for years in my 95 Nissan V6 pickup.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    I think that running Mobil 1 for 10K is quite fine(I have been doing it for 30K now). Actually I would call changing it at 10K a bit conservative. Mineral oil should be good for 5K without any problems while Synthetic should last 3 times that, easy. Here is interesting link regarding synthetic oil life: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
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