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Mazda 626

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  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    This will be my last post in the 626 discussions, as my 2000 ES has left the family fleet. I gave it to my oldest son as a college graduation present a couple of months ago, and he just sold it and bought a 2007 Accord SE. So now he gets to have the fun of a car payment. He got $3100 in a private party sale, which I thought was quite good considering the car has a damaged front bumper and hood and a tear on the back seat. Otherwise though it was in good shape and had all maintenance up to date, and ran well except the 2.0 engine was never very smooth. My son got rid of the car mainly because he was afraid the AT would go any day. I installed the transmission cooler when I bought it in January 2006, at the recommendation of the dealer, and changed the fluid every 15k miles (over 2 years time for us), and never had any trouble with it except when the cooler sprung a leak in a line
    a few months ago and had to be replaced.

    So it was a good car for us for over five years, although it cost more than I'd like in maintenance/repairs. I always liked the handling. I hope the new owner gets a lot of use out of it.
  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Posts: 14
    Hi Guys, I have a mazda 626 LX 1999 model. Last week I went to a mechanic for oil change and he told me that my car's Rocker Cover Gasket is leaking and is a fire hazard. I didn't ask him to change because it looks like selling a problem when it is not there.

    Can you guys please tell me what is Rocker Cover Gasket and how can I confirm if it is leaking and is it really an issue if not replaced.

    Syed
  • mazdamad40mazdamad40 Posts: 2
    My 93 Mazda 626 was flashing a hold button so I had 2 speed sensors changed..while in shop the mechanic fried my brain box and fuse box so I found used ones to replace..the motor was changed to a probe before I bought it and now the car's RPMs accelerate when in drive or park randomly which then makes the car sputter or cut off..I cannot find any shop in my area who works on Mazda near Hammond, IN...HELP!!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    edited June 2011
    Also known as a valve cover gasket, it commonly starts leaking oil after about 100k miles. If you have a 4 cylinder car, it is not hard to replace. The gasket is rather expensive because you also need to replace rubber grommets that go under the bolts. Typically they come with a valve cover gasket if you buy a set from FelPro (old by Advance Discount, NAPA, etc). The copst for a 4 cylinder car shoudl be about $ 40 for the gasket and the gromments. The V6 set is about $ 85.

    The biggest problem with a leaky valve cover gasket is that the oil will eventually leak into the spark plug wells and flow into spark plug wire boots and cuase engine miss.

    I just got done replacing the timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, water pump, cam and front crank oil seals, camshaft end plugs, valve cover gaskets, timing belt covers(old ones cracked at mounting tabs with age and heat) , spark plugs, plug wires, and coolant overflow bottle (4th on this car) on my 1999 ES V6. To replace the rear valve cover gasket on my car, you must remove the intake manifold, which makes this a very tedious repair. I did the work myself. I had a leaky rear valve cover gasket and timing belt was due in 10k miles anyway. I have 292,000 miles on the car now.
  • Thank u so much for the advice....it worked!!! no more miss....I still smell oil and my engine light is still on but other than that the car drives fine...Thanks again for all ur help!!!!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I am glad you got it fixed. I hit 300,000 miles tonight in my 1999 Mazda 626 V6! That says something about longevity of this car. Mine has a 5 speed manual transmission. Both engine and transmission are original and have not been rebuilt to date.
  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Posts: 14
    I agree with you that this car has longevity. I own a mazda 626 LX V4 1999. So far I have only hit 100,000. I am glad to learn that it can take you upto 300,000 miles.
  • gw53gw53 Posts: 2
    My 2002 626 is overheating beacuse of the fan. The water pump, fan, radiator, temperature sending unit and thermostat are all brand new. Problem is that the fan is not running when it should. It stays on for about 20 minutes and then something shuts it off. The A/C fan runs when I turn the A/C on. It's the other fan, though thatis the problem. The overheating occurs when I've driven a while and get stuckin trafiic. I turn on the heater and that drops the temperature. Could it be the fan relay? I replaced the sending unit and it is still happening. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greratly appreciated.
  • Try to change Coolant Temperature Sensor.To prevent overheating you can also disconnect connector from Coolant Temperature Sensor and fans will work constantly but A/C will not work.
  • gw53gw53 Posts: 2
    Thanks for responding Alex. I had already replaced my coolant temperature sending unit. That wasn't it. I finally took the car in.

    What they found was the coolant system had to be bled. The shop told me the car had to warm up at 2500 rpm, then be cooloed down completely. Then they removed the top hose from the radiator and filled the system. That was 8 days ago. Since then, it's been running cool again, no overheating.

    I appreciate your response.
  • Hi All,

    i am posting this here seeking your advice. i have a 99 626 LX V6 with 97k miles. a month ago, the temp gauge in the car was going to max and the car would stop. took it to a local repair shop and they noticed water pump leak and replaced it. repair guy said he is seeing a white smoke coming out of the car and suggested i check for coolant very often. after driving for 25 miles, car stopped again and i filled it with coolant and it was gone in no time. Now the repair guy is telling that it is a head gasket issue and would cost me 1500 repair it. i am not sure if its worth to repair it at this mileage or not. I dont want to start the repairs and get surprised with other issues. what else can go wrong.

    So far, i did CV boot, spark plugs and spent around 2400 since 2008 on this. need your advice on what other things to be checked before i get into this repair.

    thanks in advance.
  • sixssixs Posts: 3
    I have a '99 626; V6 automatic with 261,500 miles on it. Transmission seems to be slipping a bit lately. Can the filter and fluid be changed on the V6 models. I'm planning to take it to my mechanic for oil change and to be checked out.

    Just looking for pertinent information. The engine is still 'terribly strong' so a little money on the tranny might be in order to avoid buying another.

    Thanks,
    SixS
  • sixssixs Posts: 3
    Sounds to me like the head gasket blew when the engine overheated. 97K is nothing for that car as mine has 261K and another on here has 300K so it's really toss up. I can't speak of other issues as mine hasn't had any until now. I'm waiting reply regarding some tranny slippage that seems to be happening now.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I am at 320,000 + miles right now. Still running good, still on original brake rotors, exhaust, struts, engine, transmission, no engine or transmission work to date.
  • imjonimjon Posts: 1
    curious to know what kind of preventative maintenance you do as i too have a 99 626 w/auto
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    edited May 2012
    I change oil religiously every 3k miles, including the oil filter. I use Castrol GTX 10W30 regular oil (no synthetics). I use Mazda filters as they are reasonably priced from my local dealer (about $ 5/piece with my discount). The car has had 111 oil changes to date. There is no sign of any sludge in my engine after nearly 334,000 miles. I change spark plugs every 60 k miles, use only the OEM platinum Denso plugs. I get them cheaper from sparkplugs.com. I change plug wires at least every 100k miles. Use only OEM NGK wires. They are available from rockauto.com for about $ 75/set. I change the brake and clutch fluid every 2 years. I change the coolant every 60k miles or so. I use Mazda brand orange coolant. I replace the drive belts and tensioner pulley bearings about every 80k miles. I change the timing belt, water pump, and timing belt idler pulleys every 100k miles. I also replace the valve cover gaskets about every 100k miles, usually when I do the timing belt. I am on the third set of brake pads now, getting ready to replace them.

    There is one annoying issue with this engine - the EGR flow passages in the intake manifold clog with carbon about every 100k miles and must be cleaned. Otherwise you will get an engine check light with the "EGR flow low" code. The EGR valve itself is bulletproof, as it electrically operated (not vacuum) and it is cooled by engine coolant.
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