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Mazda 626

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  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    I've always just drained as much coolant as possible out of my cars using the lower hose and radiator drain, and never had problems. A flush of the entire system is nice, but probably unneccesary unless the system has been neglected for too long. Draining from the block usually entails removing a steel plate which is not only nearly inaccessible, but also difficult to re-seal properly.

    You could drain once, fill with water, run the engine until the thermostat opens up, then drain a second time to get even more of the old stuff out, but it's quite a lot more time consuming of course.

    Just as a side note, my wife used to have a mid-80's vintage Grand Am with an I-4 (2.5L I think), and it had a nifty arrangement for the thermostat which permitted a sort of self-flush. The thermostat sat inside an easily accessible cylinder connected to the engine with a steel tube, and had a removable cap. All you had to do to was drain everything, fill with water, pull the thermostat, run the engine a bit then drain again, and you ended up with very little coolant left in the system. Repeating the procedure got nearly all of it out, and it didn't take long. I wish someone would bring that type of arrangement back!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I just replaced tires on my 99 ES V6. I got Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus, size P205-60HR15. I hope they will last longer than Michelin Pilots which I had before these. The Pilots wore out in 30K miles. Everybody I talked to confirms the same thing - Michelin Pilots are great tires but do not last long.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
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  • So it seams you can only change 1/2 of it at the time? p100 When you did yours how much did you use to fill it back up? This orange mazda long life coolant should be good for how long?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If you drain the radiator through the drain plug and disconnect the lower radiator hose, you will drain about 3.5 quarts of coolant. I remember that I mixed 2 quarts or Mazda coolant with 2 quarts of distilled water for 50:50 mix and when I refilled the system I had some left over. So if you buy one gallon of coolant from Mazda, it will be enough for two changes.

    Mazda recommends changing their "long life coolant" after 60k miles. However, given the fact that you drain only half the capacity, I would recommend changing coolant at least every 30k miles. I normally do this every 15K on my other cars using green ethylene glycol coolant. The important thing is to always use distilled water when mixing the coolant.
  • hmm I don't see the advantage of using mazda orange stuff then if I'm going to change the half of the coolant every 30K...In that scenario the green stuff should work just as well?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Mazda does not recommend mixing the orange coolant with green stuff. So if your car came with orange coolant, stay with it.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Don't mix green and orange coolant in your car, because the orange variety contains acids which break down the corrosion inhibitors in the green coolant. Just spend the extra few bucks for the orange, and you won't have to change it as frequently either.
  • I have an old tach (the kind you hooked to the coil)
    and I would like to hook it up to my 93 626 2.0l.
    The Haynes book says to short out 2 pins on the diagnostic plug but doesn't say how to hook up a tach. Anybody know how?
  • Is this orange coolant same as what GM uses?
  • my horn just died yesterday, anyone had problems with them? How much they cost and is it easy to replace them?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,897
    very easy. just go to any auto parts store. Its one wire and one bolt most times. I think we're talking less than $10.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Not so fast. Where are the horns located on the V6 model? I could not find them at first glance in the engine compartment. Must be buried under something. So access may not be that easy. Second, if the horn does not work, it could be several things: horn itself (there is two: low and high frequency one), horn switch, horn relay, or wiring harness problem, or poor ground. Check the old horn by using jumper wires connected directly to the battery first to make sure that the horn is your problem.

    An aftermarket $ 10 horn may not fit properly and may necessitate changing the wire terminal. Because most horns have only one wire, they rely on grounding through the body of the vehicle. So some horn problems may be caused by rust under the horn or rusty horn mounting bolt.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our screamer(130poniesw/clutch) has been trouble free
    and a blast to drive. The on/off ramps are still a
    favorite playground with the tach straight up or a wee bit past!! We believe this was the best use of our $16K. Thanx edmunds for all the research data we
    used to arrive at this Zoom/Zoom. YyyEeeHhhAaaa
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    A "screamer" with 130 HP? Does that mean it makes a lot of noise when pushed? Mine has 170 Hp and 5 speed behind it and it hardly qualifies as anything resembling a quick car.
  • Quiet, the 2.0-liter is not. And if you rev the living whee out of it, the way God and Mazda intended, it's even less quiet.

    Besides, what kind of day is it when you can't do 5500 rpm on an on-ramp?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes, these engines, even the V6 must be revved up considerably to produce decent power. At around 5k RPM in lower gears you can feel power coming on (at least in the V6 model) but the power band is rather narrow. The V6 is not quiet either and uses considerably more fuel.
  • p100 I disagree with you...2000 626 5sp V6 is a fast car...it is true that power comes after 4000..but then you still have 3000 rpm to go until redline and it pulls strong (0 to 60 in 7.5 sec)...friend of mine has 01 BMW325 and he is only a 3/4 of car length in front of me when we do some street racing(~0-70mph)...not to mention how this car handles..it is a lot of fun to throw it in the curves...if you want more low end power than you need to get a german car or american car...
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Moving from a 4cyl 5spd Taurus(MT5) w/100K+ we're
    thrilled and pleased with the Freeport. We understand
    the price of fuel and speeding tickets in Illinois
    are not coming down...so 130 ponies are plenty.
  • On the 2.0, it was originally around 4500 rpm, which required some serious pedal-stomping. For 2000, the engine was retuned, and peak torque was reached at a more modest 3000 rpm, perhaps to improve performance with the automatic; still, it remains slowish off the line unless you're willing to wring it out.

    Which generally I am, once it's warmed up.
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