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Mazda 626

17576788081100

Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I am well aware of the location of the switch in the trunk on the left side because the darn plastic cover around the switch periodically falls off, as it is not attached very well. I thought that this is an emergency trunk release switch mandated by law if somebody gets accidentally locked inside the trunk. Is this really a valet trunk release bypass? I will try to flip the switch and see what happens.

    Concerning the valves, 98 and up models have solid valve lifters, not hydraulic type. Did not know this myself, until somebody pointed this out recently.

    BTW, I already replaced the driving belts at 65K miles. Does anybody know what is the life expectancy of the 626 V6 engine that is carefully maintained? Is this a good engine?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Thanks rotarykid! You were right - I flipped the switch in the trunk and the trunk release works fine. I must have accidentally bumped the switch when removing something from the trunk.
  • The old rule applies: if it will be a pain in the neck to do it later, do it now and get it out of the way.

    A well-maintained 2.5 should be good for an easy 180-200k or more; it's very lightly stressed (even with the short gearing and concomitant high RPMs) and barely works up a sweat.

    Mazda recommends 48k between valve-clearance inspections, though I have yet to hear from anyone who says he needed an adjustment that early. The tricky part (and where the Special Service Tool comes into play) is overcoming the spring to see just how big a shim one needs to meet clearance specs. I can't speak to this directly, but I do know that my solid-lifter '75 Toyota Celica needed exactly one valve adjustment in 195k miles; somehow I don't think this is going to be a big issue.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I found out that Chevron Techron fuel cleaner does wonders for my 99 ES V6. I highly recommend this to anyone. The cost is about $ 5 a bottle (Wallmart sells it). Just mix with about 8 gallons of fuel (instructions on the bottle say up to 12 gallons)in your tank about every 5K miles and run the tank almost empty to get maximum cleaning results. This stuff slowly decarbons your engine, and cleans the injectors. Regular use will keep your fuel system in good shape and will prevent hesitation and loss of power at high speeds.
  • learnwlearnw Posts: 2
    Well I bought the 2000 626 Lx with 68K. The high pitched whine continued and belt noise developed. Two days ago it all came to a head and the car shut down with all indicator lights on (battery, check engine, temp at peak!!)
    It was the alternator bearings.
    Replaced the alternator (no cost)and belt and all noise has gone.
    Hope that is it!
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    48K and still going problem free. By the way Walter
    how do 'say' the year of your zoom/zoom. Does yours
    have a clutch...we luv our left-leg flexor. Good luck
    with this fine automobile.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I am glad that you found the problem. I have not responded to your previous post, but I have seen this problem before. My father's 1976 Olds 98 had a whining noise coming from the engine when one of the engine belts broke and got tangled in the other belts. It turned out that the A/C compressor clutch bearing got damaged and it caused whining noise.
  • Past couple cold mornings I noticed that my shifter gate(2000 626 V6 5spd) is making squealing noise when I shift from 1st to 2nd...it goes away after car warms up..what is the way to lubricate the gate and how would I remove the vinyl cover to get to it?
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    My shifter is making that noise as well, but only when it's down close to 0 degrees. I've had two of the vinyl shift boots replaced by my dealer because they ripped in the extreme cold weather, and the mechanics had to pull the console out each time to do the work. Not sure how easy it is, but there seem to be a pair of covered screws on either side of the console in front of the seats, and I believe there may be a couple inside the console compartment as well. I've removed center consoles from other cars in the past, and it's usually not difficult.
  • carguy58carguy58 Posts: 2,303
    sure beating cars to death isn't?
  • It's certainly not helping any.

    For the first time in two decades, I have an actual garage; I don't know if it will contribute anything to vehicle longevity, but not standing outside at 6:30 am with an ice scraper will certainly contribute to mine.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    the trick is to go outside @ 6:10 and turn the car on with the heat blasting..bye-bye scraping!
    .......unless you live in a less than desireable area, then it will be bye-bye car......
  • Wow..I have to pull the console off to get to be able to grease my shifter gate....I thought I could get in there just by taking off shifter boot..guess not...what kind of grease should I use anyway?
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Unfortunately, in many cars the shift boot is either attached to the underside of the console, or to something which is completely obscured by it so you have to pull the whole thing out to get the boot off. That appears to be the case with the 626.

    As for lubrication, I haven't yet looked at my shifter and don't know exactly what is producing the noise so I can't make a specific recommendation. Some shifters have pivots that can simply be greased, and some actually have a reservoir containing oil that can be changed (I've seen Miata discussions indicating that they have that type, but I don't know if the 626 does).

    On another topic, my rear suspension is clunking again. To whoever just posted about their rear suspension bushings (too lazy to look for the post), you're not alone. This is the second time for my car, first time was less than a year ago when the dealer replaced the rear sway bar links and bushings under warranty. Looks like I'll be back there soon trying to get them to repeat last year's work for no charge.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Some time ago somebody posted info about V6 engine knocking noise and associated TSB (cannot remember which post). I noticed that lately my 99 V6 makes very faint but distinct knocking noise when idling with no A/C on. The noise is very muffled but it is there. As soon as I turn the A/C on the noise disappears. It is only heard at idle. This is not typical pinging noise which can be heard during acceleration when the ignition timing is advanced too far, but quiet knock. Does anybody have any idea what the cause and remedy is?
    The engine runs excellent and there is no knocking at any speed, except very faint knock at idle. I never use lower octane fuel than midgrade 89 in this car.
  • Now you know why I moved. :)

    And as we all know, it takes a while for the 626 to start producing mass quantities of heat. (It's a decent climate-control system otherwise - one of the benefits of domestic manufacture, I suppose - but warming up is something it does on its own sweet time.)
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our doubleought does this intermittently.We even
    emptied our trunk except spare tire and lid and
    ocassionaly it could be heard.To fliipin' cold now
    to empty it completely...she has 40+K.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    My 99 V6 warms up very rapidly when cold, unlike my 95 Nissan V6 pickup, which takes at least twice as long to warm up. The heater is strong, but then I never tested it in really cold climate. Compared to other vehicles I owned before, I certainly have no complaint about this 626 heater. I believe that 626 V6 engines have higher coolant capacity than 4 cylinders, and perhaps even a bigger heater core.

    Concerning the rear suspension clunk, I never noticed it in this car. Could it be that V6 models have different struts or sway bars?

    Also, I have not heard any squealing or squeaking noises coming from the shifter when shifting into any gear, so I cannot comment on that one.
  • That usually doesn't describe us here in Deepest Oklahoma, but you never know, especially in January.

    Consumer Reports once complained about the climate control taking a while, but that was on the four-cylinder model, I think. I don't know if the heater cores are different; the radiators are, I believe, the same, but the V6 probably holds a tad more coolant, if only because there's a greater area where the stuff has to run.

    There's a TSB on a rear clunk on '98 through '00, but it doesn't involve any suspension parts; it's the valve that controls the evap canister from the fuel system.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    My 626 has a V6, and it warms up quite fast, unless the temperature is REALLY low.

    I've seen the TSB you refer to, windophobe6. I've actually had that problem, but it sounds different. More like a rattling sound, only heard when starting out in the morning, and not nearly as loud. I'm betting that my current problem is with the sway link bushings again, as it really only makes noise when the rear end experiences side to side movement. It has been between -15 and 10 degrees most mornings in my area for almost three weeks, so that could be partially responsible for whatever has malfunctioned back there. I'm not sure what suspension differences there are if any, between the V6 and I4 equipped models p100. I suppose it's possible that some changes were made from '99 to '00 as well.
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