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Mazda 626

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  • Hi we just purchased a 98 Mazda 626 last weekend. We are happy with it but something feels a little loose in the suspension. When we hit a bump it sounds kind of funny and a little vibration. Could this be the CV joints or struts or shocks? Thanks dpw
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Probably not CV joints, more likely struts or perhaps sway bar links. I had to replace both rear sway bar links on my 94 626, they caused a lot of funny noises over bumps. Don't know if your noise or vibration is coming form the front or rear.

     

    If it is the front, it could be front sway bar links, ball joints, or struts.

     

    I would be pretty easy for a trusted mechanic to put it up on a lift & check these things out.

     

    Dave
  • awc01awc01 Posts: 1
    I have a 97 626 5 speed with about 145k on it. Bought it with 119 k and have had no problems besides the check engine light and high RPMs. Seems to me these are quite common problems. Here's my question I m planing on doing the left CV joint this weekend. Im a fairly accomplished wrench turner, just not on this car. Do I need any special tools or expertise? I can have it done for around 200 at any independent garage, but dont like to spend $ on something I know I can do. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions from anyone? Any ideas on the engine light and high rpm's?
  • scannscann Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 which is bucking. The first year I had no problems. The bucking occurs when slowing (to turn a corner) and then you accelerate. Mazda service can't find anything wrong with it. The used car manager is the only person that can make the car buck besides me. I have taken the car in at least 4-5 times. I have written two letters to Mazda on how dissatisfied I am with this car. They are telling me it is my driving habits! I am 48 years old and have had many cars, this is the only car that I have had that bucks. It is not my driving habits! I bought this car brand new off the lot and if I could afford to be without my car I would paint it yellow and park in front of the dealership. They offer nothing to make things right. I hate this car.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I had a Ford Contour that had the same problem. I had just purchased the car used. Now, if you have the 4 cylinder 626-it is the SAME TRANSMISSION (CD4E) as the Ford Contour. Now, I went through this for months. It was narrowed down to an internal electrical problem inside the transmission. I wish I had some good news for you, but they could never exactly pin-point this problem. I ended up trading the car in and losing about 3K! Good luck!
  • Hello

    I have 99 626 lx v6, check engine light, EGR MALFUNCTION, not sure if I need to pay $349 for replacement or just try to clean it. Need help.
  • I have 99 626 lx v6, check engine light, EGR MALFUNCTION, not sure if I need to pay $349 for replacement or just try to clean it. Need help.
  • Where can I find the part numbers for all the engine mounts of my Mazda 626 1997 ???
  • scannscann Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. Actually I have a 6 cylinder. Would that be the same as a Ford Contour transmission? I will also probably end up trading this car in. I am very dissatisfied with not getting any help from Mazda Corp. or the dealership where I purchased the car. I could understand some problems if I purchased used but I bought this car brand new off the lot.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Nope, it's my understanding that the V6 has a Mazda designed transmission in it. There are a few really good sources on the web for th 626 and the transmissions for these cars. I have them bookmarked, but the rules of use state I can't give you "competing websites". But if you do a "google search" you will find them!
    Good luck!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The EGR valve could be cleaned if it is sticking due to carbon buildup on its stem. However, if the vacuum diaphragm is dmaged, then the valve muyst be replaced. There are several electrical solenoids in the EGR valve circuit, so it is important to know what is the real problem.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You should check your CV boots at least every 10K miles (after about 70K original miles)because even if the boots are in good shape, the clamps may come loose and in this case the boot will start slinging grease. This happened to my car recently. No big deal - the clamps are only a few bucks , and I also bought CV joint grease for about $ 1.80. You need a special tool for crimping the new clamp - Auto Zone rents them for free with a deposit. I removed the old loose clamps, slid the old boot down the axle shaft, repacked the CV joint with proper grease (there was no dirt in because the boot was not torn), slipped the boot back on and crimped the new clamps on. I used the "ear" type clamp on both ends of the boot.

    Some say that it is a good idea to spray CV boots with silicone periodically to make them pliable and keep them from cracking and subsequent splitting.
  • Hello,

    I have the exact same problem on my 99 ES V6. Did any one give you a good answer on cleaning it? I am getting replacement costs all over the place. One repair shop quoted me 900.00 for the part and 225.00 for labor!
  • Must be a V6 thing. OEM EGR valve on my four-banger is around $150 and takes less than an hour of labor.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The V6 EGR valve retails for around $ 300 from Mazda. I would believe the $ 900 figure if they replaced every component in the EGR control circuit. As I said before, there are several control solenoids in the circuit. You do not want to replace all parts hoping that one of them was defective. They can be individually tested.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    I would try to clean it first..here are instructions on how to do it:

    Cleaning it is quite simple, providing that you have the right tools. It's best you use some compressed air, some TB cleaner and some safety goggles. First off, you want to take off the thottle body by removing the 4 bolts that hold it down and disconnect the various cables, connectors and hoses that hold it down.

    Now disconnect the the EGR hose and the EGR position sensor connector wire. Before removing the unit, make sure that you do a vaccum check to assure that it's holding a vaccum('98 and newer models don't have to worry about that, being that it's electronicly controlled) Once that's done, unbolt the two 10mm bolts that hold it down and don't worry about replacing the gasket, it's metal and is reusable for life.

    With the EGR off and in your hands, very slowly spray some TB cleaner into the EGR valve with the holes pointing up and let it sit like that for the time being while you are doing other work (I'll get to that in a second). Letting the throttle body cleaner sit and soak will break up any carbon that might have built up within the valve and cause it to slightly stick open and cause the eratic idling.

    Now, back under the hood. Sometimes, the EGR passages get caked up with carbon, especially the V6 models and especially the Millenia 2.5L engine. Take your TB cleaner and spray into the hole on the IM. Spray until you see something coming out of the EGR passage where it bolts up at. The TB cleaner should be soaking within the carbon deposits and loosening it up.

    Now that you have sprayed passage down, take an air chuck and blow into that passage within the IM and hold your hand over the plenum hole so it don't blow back on you. If there's pressure, it's clogged pretty bad. But if now, you'll hear it come out of the EGR passage.

    When the hole is unclogged, put everything back together (make sure you empty out the TB cleaner from the EGR valve and reinstall it) and disconnect the battery negative and hold down on the brake for about 10 to 15 seconds to reset the computer (if you have a factory radio, make sure you have the code ready before doing). Now crank it up and you should be ready to go.

    Good luck
  • rondirondi Posts: 3
    Hi
    My Mazda OD light started blinking yesterday and the car bucked for about 100 miles. I took it up to Canada, hoping I can find a cheaper way to replace the tranny, since I'm sure that's the problem (and knew this car has that guaranteed problem). Any suggestions for the best way to go in Vancouver, CA? What to avoid? I've heard that they never work well after you replace them (even though it's never been great as is).

    The light stopped blinking after the border crossing, but I'm not assuming it got fixed, but just that I'll be able to get it at least to a repair job instead of a tow.

    thanks!!
    Rondi
  • Can someone please tell why my mazda 626 lx 1995 cuts off when i put it in reverse. The mechanic said something about low compression in the engine. I started having this problem when one the car ran hot and shut off on me. I had the water pump, timing belt, and head gasket changed.
    what is the problem i've read alot of horror stories on line.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Did somebody change the timing belt recently? An improperly installed timing belt could possibly cause stalling when the car is put in gear, however, it would tend to do so even if put in drive. (I have seen this happen with a loose timing chain on a Chevy truck).

    Improperly instlaled timing belt will cause low compression because some vavles may be partially open when they need to be closed.
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