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Mazda 626

18990929495100

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  • I just bought a 1998 626 LX. The owner's manual says a "special tool" is required to tighten the oil filter. I *never* pay someone else to change the oil/filter. Is this for real? (I have 2 sizes of the filter wrench that is a loop that gets smaller and tighter as you pull on the handle.)

    Also, how do I tell for sure how big the engine is? The manual documents 2 different refill capacitites based on engine size. Are there 2 sizes of 4-cylinder for 1998?

    Thanks.

    Craig
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,894
    There is an optional V6 on these, so that might be why the 2 different capacities. The V6 was a 2.5 liter.

    The special tool is just the filter wrench, I'm sure.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • nannettenannette Posts: 6
    Has the car had a tune-up lately? If you just bought the car, depending on the mileage, there are a few things that you might need to get replaced. Drive Belts (AC/Powersteering)? Timing Belt? Have filters, lines and hoses been checked?

    And that sound you hear when you press the brakes is normal. I noticed it too when i first bought my car. I was reading a review of the car when it was new and that sound was mentioned as one of the Cons.

    Edit: You should only hear that sound when you are in Park and possibly neutral. You shouldn't hear it when you are actually braking to a stop.
  • masxmasx Posts: 2
    I bought the car in January. It was in terrific condition, one owner with only 60,000 km on it, (37,000 miles) after some detailing it is like new again. It is a Japanese built car as that's what we get in Canada.
    I have had no trouble at all so far. It pulled a little to the left but new tires solved it. Then the Check Engine light came on from me not tightening the gas cap, and I fixed it (with the help of this forum) by disconnecting the NEG battery terminal for a bit. The fit and finish is supurb. The handling is great and the power is just fine. (170 HP) Enough considering the light weight of the car. It has all the bells and whistles of more expensive cars and so far, (touch wood) it runs perfectly with good gas mileage. (averaging about 99 cents a litre here in Vancouver right now, which is, I think ... about 3.75 a gallon ouch!)
    I had an '89 323 until it sadly died and it was such a good car I felt obligated to buy another Mazda. Also, I am amazed by the Mazda paint job, it is comparable to any BMW. (I have owned 3 BMWs) I didn't get an owners' manual with the car and am curious to find out if it might have the built-in remote power locks, nothing came with it. But I THINK they came only on the ES model. Anyone know? Or if I can get the remotes for it?
    Thanks
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    We also used Edmunds for research prior to our purchase of first new car. Our LX
    130 ponies bridled to a left-leg flexor came with remote door/trunk lock. One should be able to pick up a module (ebay,junk yard) and take to a Mazda dealer
    for programming. For the money spent we are thoughly satisfied with purchase. We have put 60K miles on it with just regular maintenence and last tank of fuel was 29mpg. Thanx Edmunds
  • nannettenannette Posts: 6
    To the person asking about keyless entry: I looked it up on autotrader and oddly, I didn't see anything about keyless entry. You need to take the vehicle to a dealership to have it checked before you buy any remotes. They are worthless without the system installed on the car. And DO NOT take the remotes to the dealer for programming. Depending on your dealer, they can charge anywhere from $30 to $60 bucks to program them. They say they have to hook it up to a machine but that's a blatant lie. All it is is a series of opening your door and turning the key in the ignition a certain way. If you do get them, I can post programming instructions for you here.

    I bought a 96 626 with 80k miles on it and now its at 104k. Fantastic car. My 93 had 135k miles on it and ran strong until it's death at the grill of an 18 wheeler. My next car will definately be a Mazda, but due to the fact that the late model 626s look like [non-permissible content removed], it will be a millenia.

    I positively adore this car and wish I could have owned it since its 'birth'. After all these years, the interior still looks brand new. The paint has really held up and shines like you wouldn't believe.

    My 93 was a DX with no options. But my 96 came with everything and it has really spoiled me something awful. When I go checking out new cars, I cant help but compare to my Mazda and I'm always dissappointed. Power antennae, gorgeous alloy rims, Lincoln-quality horn, Map lights in sunroof/moonroof controls, Trunk release on the remote...all these things I now look for in a vehicle and in my price range, they are just not there.

    I love everything about the car except the 4 cylinder engine. Even the remote looks great compared to the ugly red and grey button ones they are making today.

    The most impressive tho is the sound system on this car. Sounded okay with the factory tape deck; but it's amazing what a Sony Cd Player did for the 6 speaker system. The Bass is incredible for factory and no vibration or distortion. What really takes these speakers to their full potential is a set of 15" subs added along with an amp. Of course they add deep bass and a large loudness factor, but they also make the factory speakers sound so much better. There is no need to change them out for aftermarket door speakers and the car came with 2 additional speakers in the dashboard that really take the loudness like pros. Mainstream kid music like rap or Drum and Bass sound great, but instrumental, rock or new age is where is this system shines. Riding around in that car is like riding around in a portable concert or something. And the sound heard from outside doesn't sound like terrible mono like most cars you hear. It has a deep, rich stereo sound that just radiates when the doors are opened. Thank you Mazda for keeping the audiophiles in mind. Now how about paying for my noise ordinance tickets ;) Man I love it.
  • how can u fix a engines in a madza 626.i need to take a new head gasket on it
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The engine check light finally came on for the first time in my 99 V6 at 118K miles. I had Autozone pull the code for free and it was "EGR flow restriction".

    I decided to tackle this problem myself and this is what I did to fix the problem:

    1. Removed the EGR valve. Access to the valve is terrible on a V6. It is located in the back of the engine and there is an exhaust pipe connected to it. It is practically impossible to remove the pipe fitting at the valve (due to impossible access), so I removed the valve with a section of pipe by unbolting the pipe at the header exhaust pipe fitting. This is a 23 mm fitting so you need to get a 23 mm open end wrench because this is not a standard size wrench. The EGR valve on this car is electrically controlled (no vacuum line or vacuum diaphragm on this one), and it has an internal cooling jacket, so you must disconnect two coolant hoses going to it. Removing the valve with the exhaust line attached to it is difficult and requires a lot of patience to get it around the exhaust pipe to come out. I almost gave up on it when I decided to try one more time, twisted the EGR valve just right and the thing came out.

    2. I tested the solenoid coils of the EGR valve. All checked out OK per the shop manual spec (22 ohms resistance approximately). There was very little carbon buildup on the valve itself or inside the pipe attached to it. I did not remove the pipe fitting connected to the valve as it would have been impossible to tighten it later with the valve in place.

    3. I unbolted the throttle body and cleaned the two EGR exhaust passages in the intake manifold. These are located just past the throttle body on the bottom of the intake manifold throat. The holes are about 8 mm in diameter and they were completely caked with carbon. The best way to clean them is with a gun barrel cleaning brush soaked in carburetor cleaner.

    4. Scraping off the old gasket from the throttle body and exhast manifold was the worst part. Took a long time with a razor blade as it was baked on to the aluminum surface.

    5. I blew compressed air through the EGR valve port and it came through the two passage holes in the intake manifold.

    6. Reassembled all of the components, the problem is fixed

    The cost of materials: new EGR valve gasket, new throttle body gasket, carburetor cleaner, roll of paper towels, about $ 12 total. Beats replacing a $ 350 valve(plus at least $ 200 labor), especially when there was nothing wrong with the valve itself and it would not fix the problem anyway.

    Suggest cleaning the EGR ports in the intake manifold about every 30K to avoid this issue. It may be possible to clean these even without ulbolting the throttle body by holding the butterfly valve fully open. Throttle body removal requires disconnecting the electrical connectors to the throttle position sensor and the IAS valve, as well as two collant hoses becuase the throttle body has an internal cooling jacket.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,704
    I was out looking at late-model 626s a few days ago and I noticed that the '01s and '02s seem to have better overall build quality than the '98-'00. When I look at cars I check them over very thoroughly and slam the front doors a few times to ensure solidity. Even though you may digress with me, I find that an '02 626 has a less "tinny" feel than a '99.

    Also, did they still use that horrible Ford transmission behind the 4-cyls. in '01 and '02?
  • elmoroelmoro Posts: 1
    Hi nanette,
    I would be greatful of you can post programming instructions for the keyless remote of Mazda 626. the car i have is 1997 but it think the same remote as 1996 model.
    Simon
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Also, did they still use that horrible Ford transmission behind the 4-cyls. in '01 and '02?

    I believe that the Ford CD4E transmission was in use in both of the years you mentioned with the 4 cylinder motors. There is a Mazda designed automatic that is paired with the DOHC V6 motor.

    I have an '01 626-ES-V6. It has 70K miles on it. I had to replace the radiator due to clogging, other than that it has been an excellent car. My teenage son now drives it. I would say get the V6. You can expect gas mpg of between 20 and 24 mpg depending....
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    My 99 ES V6 with 5 speed manual tranmsission has 120k miles on it and regularly gets 25 MPG in combined driving with A/C on all the time (in humid Florida, even in January) I use premium fuel, as better mileage and performance make up for the increased fuel cost.

    I do not know if quality of 00-02 models is better. On my car the paint is of excellent quality - still shines like new, and no rust anywhere on the car..
  • aggie85aggie85 Posts: 1
    Did you ever have any problems shifting? I have a 98 ES and right now during the day (hot-panhandle of Florida) it is nearly impossible to shift into 1st and sometimes 2nd.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes! But not very often. And I believe that this is related to the shifter linkage and its components, such as bushings. I only have this problem on a very hot day when sitting in traffic. It comes and goes. What I think is happening is this: the shifter linkage is right above the catalytic converter, which get extremely hot when sitting in traffic with the engine running on a hot summer day. The linkage expands from heat, there is some binding, which causes difficult shifting. I am thinking about replacing some bushings in the linkage. However, you cannot see anything unless you remove the catalytic converter first.
  • Are you saying that you have instructions on how to program the keyless entry remote? I bought one online 1-2 years ago and have never gotten it programmed. The one dealer I checked with claimed that instructions were in the owner's manual, but they are not. I have a '99 626.
  • I bought 2 remotes off ebay, and through MUCH searching found a website of some guy that listed the instructions to program it on his personal website. It was a piece of cake to program
  • :cry: Our son's Mazda 626 began having problems starting about 4 months ago. The car would start and run fine...then without warning would not start the next time. After being stranded several times...my son had the car towed to three different repair shops....no one could identify the problem. We finally had it towed to a Mazda dealer (50 miles away) who said we needed a new transmission. We asked for a second opinion at a local garage...who agreed. We paid for a rebuilt trans., new battery.

    My son picked up the car...it ran fine for one day...he drove it to work but it would not start after his shift.

    Any ideas??? We are desparate.

    Madmom2
  • Oh great Mazda owner.....do you have any ideas as to why our 2000 626 is demonstrating erratic starting capability? Done of the three repair shops have been able to diagnose and fix this problem. They can only recommend a new transmission (we just picked it up last Friday...paid $3400...car ran for a day,,then started its routine of intermittent starting..and not starting).

    The car starts for the mechanics....

    Any insight would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    This does not make sense. Even if there was no transmission in a car, the car should start. There is a transmission shifter interlock which prevents starting when lever is not in park or neutral (I assume the car has an auto transmission). Your problem could be nothing more than this interlock.

    If you had a really bad transmission, typical symptoms would be slipping, hard shifting, or not shifting into higher gear, abrupt downshifting with a loud clunk, etc. or the car would start, and simply not move when put in drive or reverse.

    Surely the people who replaced the trahnsmission gave you some warranty? Hire a lawyer and go after them if they refuse to fix the car.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Try this. I have done this to my car and shifting has removed remarkably.

    The shifting rod end, which enters the transmission, has a rubber boot on it. Pull the boot back, clean the polished portion of the rod, and lubricate well with wheel bearing grease. Push the boot back on, making sure it latches on correctly. That's it!

    Note: You need to jack up the car to access these components.

    I carefully inspected my shifter linkage and could not find anything else wrong.
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