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Mazda 626

19091939596100

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  • pachaipachai Posts: 1
    Greetings,
    This question might seem almost off-topic, but I hope it's not.
    My father offered me his old car, 1993 Mazda 626 with 110,000 miles.
    First thing I did was have the timing belt checked....and I was told that
    I would need to change the belt, because the main seal is leaking on it.....
    and that I would need to change the main seal.
    The car's not worth the $700.

    I was thinking of converting this car to an electric car.
    It just passed NYS inspection.
    I saw an article on successful conversion of a 1985 Mazda 626.

    The question for the forum is this:
    The "donor" car has an Automatic Transmission. I need a stick.
    I only need second gear and maybe reverse, no clutch pedal needed.

    My regular mechanic told me I would need to replace all the linkages,
    including the axles, because they are different in a stick.

    My project was complicated enough.
    Also, the project costs enough already. The batteries & motor are $1000 each.
    I thought I would check here in case someone has a secret insight.
    I have a friend who is a fly-by-night mechanic...didn't get to talk to him yet.

    Thanks
    SR in North Jersey

    PS transmission issue aside, do you think I would be able
    to find someone willing to take the engine, exhaust system, radiator, etc.
    for free? (i.e., they get the parts I don't need :-)
    Or are the parts simply not worth the effort?
    Or is it worth it to pay a mechanic I trust? (Ch-Ching, Ch-ching :-)

    Anyone want to trade an automatic for a stick ?
  • Dear Mad Mom,

    We had a similar problem with our Nissan SUV (I know different car). But, it too would cut out intermittently , stranding us places. And like you the mechanics we took it to could not get it to "not" start and so couldn't ever diagnose the problem. Yes they suggested many things and replaced many things and nothing helped. Finally we discovered that it was the "starter". Also might be your ignition switch (I think that's what it's called - it's where you put the key in to start the car).

    The down side is that we now have two keys for our car (one for ignition and the other for doors, etc.). The up side is that it's fairly inexpensive and our car ran great after we had both replaced!

    Hope this helps. :)

    P.S. Make those morons that misdiagnosed your car pay for all of this!!! Our mechanic did!
  • Does anyone know which hose I need to remove to drain and flush my radiator? 99' 626.

    Thanks! :confuse:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,913
    There should be a valve or plug at the bottom of the radiator you open to drain it.

    If not, or you can't find it, you have to remove the lower hose (because removing the upper hose will only allow the radiator to drain until it gets below that hose's level). Just pull the lower hose off the radiator side and leave it attached to the engine.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • bohookbohook Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Mazda 626 LX automatic trans with 97,000 miles. I've changed the transmission fluid about 9,000 miles ago. After starting the engine I can move the gear shifter but the trans does not engage. Since the shifter seemed rather loose while going through the gears, I removed the housing surrounding it to check the cable. I noticed that both cables were connected and moved as I shifted. I'm unsure how to identify the same cable under the hood as I think this may be my problem. Any suggestions, am I on the right track?
  • My girlfriend is having the same problem with her 2000 626. It's like, everytime she drives home from work and then turns it off and tries to turn it back on again, it won't start. Then in about 15 to 20 minutes when the engine cools down a little, it starts.

    Please let me know if you find an answer to this problem. I may try to replace the starter and the ignition like the other post says if nothing else.

    Thanks,
    Matt
  • Thanks for the reply!

    Anyone know about cleaning fuel injectors??? 99' 626

    Thanks! :sick:
  • One other thing to consider is the battery cables. I know this sounds obvious. But again it is something that mechanics sometimes miss. If your cable ends are loose or extremely corroded you can intermitantly lose charge for, what seems, no reason at all. I've replaced the positive cable contact on three cars already!

    Hope this helps!!! :D
  • I've been doing similar research for my 626. Here's what I've found.

    "Can anyone suggest an automatic transmission cooler? Any preferred mounting location on this car?"

    For an automatic, a transmission cooler kit would be a very big benefit. The one most commonly used is the Hayden 404, and can be purchased for ~$40 at your local Pep Boys. I've heard they're pretty easy to install.

    "My power antenna grinds when coming down. Is there a "quick fix" or "lube" that I can do? It does not appear to be bent. I have disconnected the power to it to save wear on the gears."

    Definitely grease that puppy. That's the way they come from the factory. Again, do research to find out which lube is best. ;)
  • They are exactly the same, down to the nuts and bolts! :D
  • Woke up this morning and her battery was dead. We could roll up the windows, but the stereo wouldn't start and the engine wouldn't turn over. I jumped her off and we drove to get a new battery. On the way to the store her transmission started shifting rough and almost died at a stop light or two. We replaced the battery with a new one and the car runs great. Amazing, it even shifts like new now.

    I guess it hasn't been long enough to know if the car is going to give us anymore trouble starting, but it seems good for now.

    Hope you get that 626 fixed "Mad Mom" and thanks for the help madcrasher.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The radiator cooling fan motor recently died on my 99 626 V6. There are two electric fans in front of the radiator - one is called the radiator fan, the other the condenser fan (for A/C condenser cooling). Both of them come on when the A/C is on and the engine is running. I could not believe the prices of replacement fans from Mazda! One complete fan is about $ 320 and if you just buy the motor for one, it will cost you over $ 200! These two fans have completely different motors, and for the condenser fan, there is also a different part number for automatic or manual transmission V6 car. And different part numbers for the 4 cylinder car version too. The best price on the radiator fan motor I could find was from Albany Mazda (Albany, Georgia) by mail order and it was about $ 158 including shipping.

    Advice: When your electric cooling fan quits running, disconnect the fan motor connector and then apply 12V battery power directly to the connector terminals by using two leads with alligator clips. If the motor is good, the fan wil run. Then your problem is probably the fan rellay. Each fan has its own relay and they are located in the engine compartment.
  • I bought a second-hand 2000 626 LS-V6 this summer and fell in love immediately. My biggest problem is that I do not have an owner's manual. My dealership (Honda) did not tell me until a month after that they couldn't order one for me. The nearest Mazda dealership (50 miles away) couldn't help me over the phone and suggested I stop by to be helped. Even though my dealer said he'd reimburse me for the manual price, it really irks me that it's so inconvenient. Does anyone know a better way of getting a manual?
    Also, I've read the keyless entry remote posts on the message board and I'm very excited. The dealer told me he would order the remotes for me, but again, he conveniently could not. I have looked at a couple on ebay. Should I spring extra for a Mazda 626 remote or just buy a standard remote?
    Thanks very much in advance!
  • The check engine light came on at 56k miles. Went to autozone and they said it was a po133 code which was probably an oxygen sensor. They sold me a bosch 15730 O2 sensor and told me to replace the sensor between the engine and the catalytic converter. Is this the sensor located on the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine? Any advice on replacing the sensor? Do I need to disconnect the battery after changing the sensor to clear the codes?
  • dsutdsut Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone,

    Seems like mazda 626's aren't the apple of eyes to many. I have a deal of a used 2002 Mazda 626 with 65k miles to buy. After reading the posts, I am worried if I should spend my scholarship savings on this car. I have to make a careful investment so kindly suggest me if I should look out for other brands (toyota, honda etc.).

    Thanks in advance,
    Mike.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Which motor is it? Is it the automatic? If it's the 4 cylinder-it's got a Ford CD4E auto transmission and known not to be too reliable. If it's the 6 cylinder motor-it has a Mazda designed transaxle that is very good. If it's a manual transmission-your OK as well. I have 75K on a 626 ES V6. Fully loaded except for ABS. It's got the Bose stereo, sunroof, leather, nice wheels etc. I purchased slightly used with 5,000 miles on it in the end of '01. I recently had the most expensive repair to date. Both the axles needed replacement. It was $300.00 and that was a deal. I have been told by two mechanics that parts are more expensive than some BMWs....
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Love this combination and have done only preventive stuff.
  • i am looking for a mazda 626 lx year could be between 1998 and 2002. i am in need of the front passenger door for this car.

    the original color is dark green, almost black in the night. if not the original color a matching door will do.

    My car is a year 2000.:cry: :mad: :(" alt="image" />
  • i replied to myself. The color code is 11j or dark green
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Mazda called our dark-green that year "Freeport"!?!
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