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Mazda 626



  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 99 626 V6 when I changed the timing belt at 105K miles. I did this work myself, and yes, it is time consuming becuase you ened to remove the intake manifold to get to the rear valve cover. And to remove the intake manifold, you need to unplug practically the entire engine electrical harness, which is attached to the manifold.

    Anyway, even the gaskets were expensive: $ 30/piece for the valve cover gaskets, $ 80 for the valve cover bolt sealing washers, and $ 30 for the two intake manifold gaskets. Note that my valve covers were not leaking when I replaced the gaskets, but I figured that they might after 105k miles. If I keep the car I hope not to touch the valve cover gaskets or the timing belt until 210k miles (140K miles or 210,000 km on it now). I change the spark plugs and plug leads every 60k miles. I always use the OEM plugs and leads. Change oil and filter religiously every 3k miles, use Castrol GTX 10W30 and Mazda OEM filters. Cheap insurance, and so far the engine is running like a champ. In fact, it feels stronger than it did when it was new.

    Don't forget to clean out the EGR passages just behind the throttle body in the intake manifold. These passages clog with carbon on these cars after about 100k miles and cause improper EGR circuit operation.(you get a trouble code). Fortunately, the solution is simple cleaning, and usually no need to replace the EGR vavle which is very expensive ($ 360 for the part alone, and a nightmare to get to on the V6 engine).
  • brandnewbrandnew Posts: 5
    the check engine light is on for 2 months. the code is 0171, - bank is too lean. i have replaced fuel filter, spark plug, changed oil and oil filter, flushed engine when I did oil change.

    right now, I filled up with gas #91. the normal use is #87.

    after I changed fuel filter, the check engine light will be on again until 30Km or so. then 3 days later, after the code is cleared by code reader, the light will be on after 5-8 km again. the code is still 0171.

    the gas that I use is still #91.

    I need to get it pass the emission test as my sticker will be expired in May.

    wonder if anything else that I can do to clear the issue?

    would it be possible to pass emission test if I just leave check-engine light on?

  • brandnewbrandnew Posts: 5
    and the mileage is 185,000KM so far
  • brandnewbrandnew Posts: 5
    air filter is also replaced.

    next I will try to clean MAF by TB cleaner.

    I went to Ford's forum and on Ford Expedition, PCV hose was reported to have a hole in a few cases, which causes 0171/0174 . not sure if it will help Mazda 626 as well?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    There is a possibility that you have clogged EGR valve passages in the intake manifold just past the throttle body. These passages cake up with carbon after some time. To clean them, you need to remove the throttle body. With insufficient or nonexistent EGR flow, the mixture will be too lean.

    You cannot pass an emission test with a lit engine check light.
  • brandnewbrandnew Posts: 5
    Thank you very much.

    I cleared the CEL before I went to the garage for emission test. The readings are all in very good range, much below the limit. so I got the sticker renewed. but after a few km later, CEL came up again.

    I will read the book and try to clean them.

    also, last time, I used electronic cleaner to clean MAF sensor. today I just bought a Carb cleaner and will try to clean the sensor again.
  • silkyjsilkyj Posts: 1
    Hey, guys! I have a big problem with my much-driven, much-loved '84 626. The carb squirts major amounts of gas up into the air cleaner, and it's all wet inside. She wants to run, but there's so much gas, I have to hold the pedal down all the way to even make it start. It kind of runs, but not very good. Anybody got any ideas?

  • veerentveerent Posts: 4

    I bought a second hand 1997 Mazda 626 V4 automatic 3 weeks back with 93K miles on it. The engine was doing fine until last week when the engine started to heat up all of a sudden and stopped in the middle of the road. I got it towed to the nearest Mazda dealer. He took a week to diagonize and told me that the compressor is bad and would cost a lot to repair it. So he suggested on changing the engine itself for $2600($900 engine[85K miles] + $1700 labor). Before this problem there was a lot of vibration in the engine during drive (D) and would come down a bit when in N or P. I do not know the cause for that! Can this be one of the reasons for the engine to heat fast and stop abruptly? Is there any other reason for the engine to heat up so fast and stall? Should I get the engine replaced or take it to any other local mechanic? I am student and can't afford to spend a lot on the car right now. Can anyone suggest what needs to be done?
    Any replies will be greatly appreciated.

    :mad: & :cry:
  • hilby6hilby6 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Mazda 626 ES. I love the car but recently in hot weather when in stopped traffic or idling the temp. gauge reads hot and the A/C blows hot air. As soon as traffic starts moving everything goes back to normal. We got the AC relay switch changed out but it hasn't seemed to work. Only happens in hot weather. Any ideas?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Does the cooling fan work? I am assuming it runs only on-demand. I had this kind of problem once with a Civic, and it was traced to an inoperative cooling fan.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Hope you all had a good 626 Day last Friday. That was the only 626 Day of the millenium--that is, 6-2-6, or June 2, 2006.

    How did you celebrate it? Did you do something special for your 626? Wash it, maybe? Or take it for a drive?

    Sorry to say I did none of these. :( I did fix its rattle in the back (sway bar bushings), but that was it. My son drove it to school, so I didn't even drive the car on Friday. It was pretty clean already, and rain was predicted for the weekend, so I didn't wash it. (The rain never came.)
  • juancho2juancho2 Posts: 1
    who knows about speakers brand BOSE for Mazda 626 year 1997?

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Avoid breaking the side mirrors on a '98-'02 626! My son didn't watch out when backing out of the garage and knocked the driver's mirror off. Cost to replace it, including painting, is $418. Painting is about $100. I thought about doing it myself but decided to let them do it. I tried gluing it back on with epoxy but it didn't hold. :(
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Glad you reminded me - I almost broke my mirror off (and almost cracked my hip too) when I accidentally bumped into it on my 99 Mazda shortly after getting the car. My '92 Protege had folding outside mirrors. This user friendly feature has simply been eliminated on my 99 626 which has FIXED side mirrors. No doubt another "improvement" forced upon Mazda by Ford. I noticed that folding mirrors have been eliminated on a lot of Ford passenger cars too.

    I never noticed that they put fixed mirrors on the 626 when I test drove it before buying. If I did, I would not have bought the car.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Yeah, it is not a positive trend. More and more mid-sized cars (e.g. new Camry and Sonata) have fixed side mirrors and in some cases no side moldings to protect from dings, all to cut costs. The automakers don't care--they don't have to replace the mirrors and fix the dings!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    And another stupid trend is elimination of a lock on the front passenger door side. My 626 still has one, but many new cars and trucks do not.

    But honestly, if manufacturers are cheap and want to cut costs, why don't they offer these features as optional equipment? I would gladly pay extra to get:

    remote release gas filler door (standard on my Protege, eliminated on the 626)

    folding outside mirrors (standard on 1992 Protege, eliminated on 99 626)

    full size spare tire (if the manufacturers at least provided enough space for a fullsize tire in the truck well I would buy one afterwards)

    passenger side door lock

    underhood emergency light

    I see dark green bands around tops of windshields disappearing on many new vehicles too. Those used to be standard in the past on most midsize and large vehicles.

    Some manufacturers, such as GM are so cheap that they do not even equip their full size trucks with plastic wheel well liners in the back. Nothing like painted bed sheet metal to absorb the salt spray and gravel flying from the wheels.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    When was the remote release gas filler door eliminated on the 626? My 2000 has one.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I do not know when, but my 1999 626 ES V6 does not have it.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    There were some tweaks for 2000, maybe that was one of them.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I had this happen to mine too. what happened was that one of the electric fans did not come on. As a result, the temperature of the coolant went up, and the A/C shut down. There are two electric cooling fans: a radiator cooling fan and A/C condenser cooling fan. Each fan has its own relay. Both fans turn on and run when A/C is operating. The two fans have different electric motors (available and replacable separately). Also, 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder have different fan motors. Therefore , it is difficult to find the right fan motor from an aftermarket supplier.
    In my case it was the condenser cooling fan motor that burned out. You can make sure it is the motor by unplugging the motor pigtail fromj the harness and connecting it directly to a 12V battery terminals with jumpers. If the fan does not run, the motor is shot. If it turns on, the problem could be the fan relay.
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