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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

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Comments

  • golfnut5golfnut5 Posts: 202
    Weltron, I always used run of the mill 5w 30 oil in my 95 GM. I felt the shudder in my 95 GM when I was maintaining speeds of between 40 to 45 mph. I never experimented with different transmission fluids, maybe I should have.
  • Hello all, I just read this thread, and wanted to chime in. I own a '95 CV loaded w/all options. I have had it since 1 yr old with 23K miles, and it just turned 125K miles. I run 10w40 most of the year, (in New England) and did the same w/ my '92 Towncar w/same engine. The 92 TC was sold to my brother w/133K miles, and now is over 160K miles on orig engine. It needed tranny overhaul at 140K miles. My mechanic found that 5w30 caused the Ford cruisers he serviced to burn/use one Qt+ per change, so he switched to 10w40 many yrs ago. Both engines have performed flawlessly, on 10W40 and sound like new cars. Mine still uses no oil, but my brother now sees about 1 Qt per 3K miles. On the subject of tranny shudder, it happened on 95 CV during shifting (3nd to 3rd gear?) at around 30-35 MPH, much like the TSB described. I complained so often to Dlrship that they replaced the torque convertor at 35,900 miles just before warranty ran out. That was 90K miles ago. I do pay a little more (at local Trans. shop) for full tranny drain incl Torque convertor when I have tranny oil and filter done every 25-30K miles, and so far the 2nd torque converter has not exhibited what orig one did. I have loved both cars, but do find the '95's brakes to be poor when running at highway speed and forced to make a quick stop. In rain, it is worse, as rotors need about 3-4 seconds of brake application to dry off enough to even start slowing down the car. I do mostly highway driving 120 miles/day 4 days per week, and have to replace front brakes and turn (or replace) rotors every 30-35K miles. Usually there is still lots of pad, but everything is glazed so badly, there is no stopping power. The only other complaint I have is the airbag system, which pops an error light about once per year or so. Usually, it is fixed for about $150, but I was told today when latest one was diagnosed that the MONITOR needed replacing. Part is $252 and they say $150 in labor. This car has had 3-4 occurences of the Air bag light, and my 92 TC had similar problems w/ 3-4 over 130K miles. Last comment is a suggestion. I had to pay Dlrship to replace sparkplug wiring sets once on each car. The parts were appx $165 (and no aftermarket alternative at the time this happened) and labor another $80, so I told them I wanted the (7 good) old wires. Think about it $245 for one bad sparkplug wire... The old ones were given to my brother when he bought the 92 TC, and he now has only 1-2 left, and they are not long enough for the ones that usually fail... KEEP your old wires if you get this repair!
  • Okay guys, let's see if you can help me. What is the transmission model designation number for 1998 LX Crown Vics? I'm musing over a possible 1999 Mustang GT engine-transmission transplant into the Vic. If you could dredge up the Mustang transmission model number as well, that would be a great plus. The swap looks fairly doable, except the battery must be relocated on the Vic and a custom snorkel intake would have to be used with the new engine. I haven't delved into the necessary electronics issues, but they should be solvable. If there's a website out there super hardcore specs on these cars, throw me the link. Thanks!
  • jangolfjangolf Posts: 2
    We own a 93 MGM and thinking about buying 2000 because it's a great travel car. Wondered about the shudder and had tran service at the dealer. They never mentioned it was a common thing. Glad to hear it's not a big deal - REALLY glad to hear it's been corrected for 2000. Picked up other good hints from reading comments. Thanks!
  • jshaw5jshaw5 Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 92gm. bURNING OIL CONSTANTLY. IE FROM A COMPLETE STOP LARGE PLUME OF SMOKE. ENGINE HAS 199,000 MILES ON IT. TRANNY HAS BEEN DONE. CAN IT BE I MIGHT BE LOOKING AT AN ENGINE JOB, OR WOULD CHANGING OIL GRADE HELP WITH BURNING ISSUE. I LIKE THE CAR, BUT DON'T WANT TO INVEST IN MAJOR ENGINE OVERHAUL. CURRENTLY USING 10/30 PENZOIL. HELP.
  • swong2swong2 Posts: 2
    You've obviously gotten your money worth out of your ride! Time to consider a newer ride or else rebuilding the engine. All things considered for a ride with 199k on the odometer it's time to retire the ride!
  • btroybtroy Posts: 92
    Sounds like you need a valve job or a ring job or both. Your problem is so severe that changing the oil grade will not help. Shop around, maybe you can find a shop that will do it for a reasonable price. Like swong2, I wouldn't want to invest much $ into a car with that age and mileage, but if the rest of the car is in good shape and you like it, it may be worth it to you. Could you buy a better car for the price of the repair?
  • glenns2glenns2 Posts: 3
    Im thinking about buying a '95 crown vic, w/71k miles forest green & in seemingly perfect condition. anyone have any suggestions or comments?
  • glenns2glenns2 Posts: 3
    anyone on this page?
  • Regarding the comment on the crash safety and shared platforms of the Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis/Town Car, the platforms were around essentially unchanged from their '79 downsizing to 1997. It's called the Panther platform, although that's not really known by anyone. Apparently, the 1979 platform was not all new; anybody who has noticed that '72-'76 Torino 2-doors' track and wheelbase were within spitting distance of the current CV/GM and '72-'76 Torino 4-doors' likewise with the Town Car should be somewhat suspicious. There's a neat piece to back this up at this website. Look at the handling section.
    http://members.aol.com/tocool4u26/ranchero.htm

    Can anyone else confirm this? It's really bothering me. Thanks,

    Steve
  • glenns2glenns2 Posts: 3
    Im thinking of buying a '95 crown vic. It has 71k miles & appears to be in perfect condition. anyone have any comments or suggestions about these cars?
  • Unfortunately, I haven't owned a Ford full-size, so anything I could tell you about them you probably already know. I have driven them, and I like the way they ride and I thought the handling was perfectly O.K. for anything anyone would need. Power delivery was kind of awkward, though.
  • Unfortunately, I haven't owned a Ford full-size, so anything I could tell you about them you probably already know. I have driven them, and I like the way they ride and I thought the handling was perfectly O.K. for anything anyone would need. Power delivery was kind of awkward, though.
  • cebuanocebuano Posts: 24
    Have any of you with a late model CV/GM with analog gages noticed this?....

    I picked up my new 2000 CV last Friday. Everything works great except for one minor annoyance. During night driving the trip odometer on the lower half of my speedometer is much brighter than the rest of the speedometer area. If I dim the cluster lighting enough to tame the brightness of the trip odometer, the speedometer and other gages are too dark. The light source is coming from an area below the trip odometer and it seems that there must be a light deflector missing or mispositioned. Any similar observations out there?
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Posts: 202
    Cebuano, I picked up my new 2000 GM last Saturday and noticed the brightness of the trip odometer while driving on a cloudy rainy day with lights on. The brightness did not bother me, however, it was only cloudy and not dark outside. I noticed that shortly after I start my GM and put it in drive, I hear a groaning sound that last about two seconds. Do you have this sound on your CV, and if so do you know what it is. I do not have the air suspension, so I thought it might have something to do with the traction control.
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Posts: 202
    Cebuano, I picked up my new 2000 GM last Saturday and noticed the brightness of the trip odometer while driving on a cloudy rainy day with lights on. The brightness did not bother me, however, it was only cloudy and not dark outside. I noticed that shortly after I start my GM and put it in drive, I hear a groaning sound that last about two seconds. Do you have this sound on your CV, and if so do you know what it is? I do not have the air suspension, so I thought it might have something to do with the traction control.
  • i bought a 92 crown vic on my 30th birthday. i just bought my wife a new one (cv) so now this one is all mine. it has 62,000 miles on it and is mint. i would love to upgrade the car to a police interceptor package. i've all the time in the world to do it so no job is really too big. chip,suspension, exhaust,tires,brakes, whatever it takes. i never have or will hot rod it, but i would love to have the feel of the interceptor.can anyone steer me in the right direction for information to do this? i can't find anything on the internet.
  • replace the socalled non replaceable crank case separator filter located under the pcv valve down in the intake manifold.if it stops up the crank case pressure will increase and blow the rear seal of the engine (transmission has to come out to replace it, a $300 job). a homemade tool can be fabricated to get the metal mesh filter out.
    cut the bottom piece off(you'll end up with about a 12 inch long straight piece). at one end turn it up at a right angle("L" shape). with this tool you can remove and install the filter. you'll see
    where to use the hook part of the tool(under one of the three bent over tabs of the little filter).
  • use a coat hanger to make the tool.
  • weltronweltron Posts: 11
    Golfnut it is the traction control doing a self test. On my 95 GM it performs this test at approx. 13 miles an hour after you first start the car and not again until you turn it off and restart it. I also heard this noise and thought what the hell is that. It wasn't until I received the shop manual that I could find out what it was. It is the pump running that you hear.
  • weltronweltron Posts: 11
    Try this site, I think you'll like it. (www.crownvic.homepage.com)
  • cebuanocebuano Posts: 24
    The noise must be from the trac control as Weltron mentioned. I don't hear that noise as I don't have trac control...but I do have the hdlg/perf pkg w/self adjusting air shocks. Haven't heard any noise from my air shock system self adjustment.

    Let me know your observance of your instrument cluster during the DARK hours...and if the trip odometer appears disproportionately bright compared with the rest of the cluster. Thanks
  • btroybtroy Posts: 92
    Not to be a stickler on minor details, but I think the pump self-test noise is part of the ABS system. The TC system works through the ABS system, of course, but if you don't have TC, you should still hear the pump test.
  • rjones62rjones62 Posts: 3
    I am thinking of ordering a new Crown Victoria with the Handling and Performance Package but I do not want the 3.55 ratio. I would rather have the standard 2.73. My questions are, can I special order and have the 2.73 instead of the 3.55 and if not how hard and costly would it be to change over once I receive the car. Thanks for your help.
  • weltronweltron Posts: 11
    Btroy is correct, it is a self test for the anti-lock brakes. This is an excerpt out of Fords service manual: Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20km/h (13mph), the anti-lock brake module turns on the pump motor (2C256) for approximately one-half second. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.
  • cebuanocebuano Posts: 24
    I have a feeling a big factory like that may lack the flexibility to take on special orders like. Just a guess. Do you want the 2.73 ratio because of fuel ecomony?
  • cebuanocebuano Posts: 24
    I guess I'll have to try listening for that pump test next time I reach 13-14 mph. Frankly, my new CV LX with h/p pkg has such a smooth and quiet ride that I just didn't notice many noises other than the touring tires making their way over the pavement.
  • dukecdukec Posts: 2
    My 1996 MGM has 66,000 on it with oem shocks. Do they need replacement, cause for me it really is hard to tell. It is the GS model and it really feels like it floats down the highway and keeping in a straight line is like hell. I love the car, but driving long distances can be cumbersome.

    Also, when I turn the wheel to either extreme, I hear a weird grinding noise. Must be related tot he suspenion, but was wondering if anyone had the same experience.
  • btroybtroy Posts: 92
    diagnosing shocks on your own car can be really tough because they wear out so gradually that you can't really notice it, and you get used to it. I wouldn't be surprised if they were totally worn out at 66K. One thing you can do is the bounce-test. Using all of your body weight, depress one corner of your car and let it rebound. I believe it should spring up and then settle down slightly to the normal level. If it bounces up and down more than that, they should be replaced. You could also get a Ford mechanic to test it, or you could test-drive a new one and see if the floatiness that you feel in yours is absent in the new one.
  • dmersdmers Posts: 23
    I would recommend looking at a used GM/CV. Consumer Reports mag recommended the 95-96, and 98 GM/CV as "Good Used Cars."
    That is what I generally do every 4-5 years. I purchase a 1-2 year old w/ some warranty left and keep them for about 4-5 years__120-135K. The factory bugs are generally gone by the previous owner and I have a little peace of mind for a year w/ the remaining warranty. Buy the extended warranty contract on these cars is a waste of money.
    Normally, I have the expense of belts/hoses/shocks/battery/Brakes/Change Tranny fluid every 35K/Change oil every 2-3K/and that's about it.
    The ride and mileage for this size car is very good and cost per mile is great!
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