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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

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Comments

  • My 95 CV LX has them, I don't know if they are standard or not.
  • golfnut5, johnbono,
    Thanks for the reply. Yes, they were available at one time but are not now.

    I think the climate you live in proves whether they are useful or not. Here in NJ, we get a good ice storm once or twice a year, and a couple of good snow falls too. When this occurs, the heated mirrors can be as important as the rear defroster. Granted, this is the exception, not the rule, but it doesn't seem like a lot to ask for in a car like this.

    Joe
  • Take a look on the mirror itself. On my mom's '00 taurus there is a defroster-type ideogram on it. On my '95 it says "heated" on the mirror. I don't think ford dropped heated mirrors, it may be that all the CV/GMs out there have one.
  • swong1swong1 Posts: 14
    disagree with you johnbono! If you look at the late model cv's they has ducting (you can see the black donut whever you opened the driver side door routing warm air over to the door itself) which was the medium which warm air was directed over the the side mirrors. They did away with it starting in the '98 model year. I know this for a fact since I had to replace both side mirros when my car got vandalized necessitating replacing both of the side mirror asemblies. BTW, the r/r of the side mirror assembly is a no brainer...total r/r time is 20 minutes!
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    'Scuse me for asking a dumb question, but please un-abbreviate r/r for me. Thanks
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Posts: 202
    Swong1, there are no donut rings on my 2000 GM and no heated mirrors of any form.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    r/r is short for remove/replace, a mechanic's term used to price labor. Yeah, replace the mirror, as opposed to leave it hanging off the door frame like some ignoramuses here in Dallas.

    Wonder if Crown Vic LX models had heated mirrors. Would GM LS or CV LX heated mirrors fit a 98-up model? You could wire it up through the defroster button. Hmm...
  • leepedleeped Posts: 2
    Was out shopping today and saw a GM "Chesapeake" Series. It has all leather interior with part vinyl top with 20K mi for $13,888. Does anybody know whether the Chesapeake is an LS or GS? Actually I had only been considering a Camry or Altima up till now but I sure liked the ride in the GM. Any info on the Chesapeake or opinions about the GM vs Camry or Altima would be appreciated. I have read about all these vehicles in Edmunds and other sites but would like some more opinions.
  • leepedleeped Posts: 2
    Sorry, the GM I saw was a 97. Also, any opinions on the asking price?
  • I've just gotten new info. It seems that the 2002 model GM WILL have heated mirrors. I guess someones listening.
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    My guess on the Chesapeake package is that it's some sort of local dealer's special package. Dressed up like that, I think they make gorgeous luxury cars at a great price. Most people just think they look gaudy though. Your money, you'll be driving it. If you like it, go for it.
  • I would like more information concerning the up coming special edition G/M Marauder. What the scope on this up coming version of the G/M?
  • This question may be a bit too "shadetree" for Edmunds, but since many posters here seem to change shocks, maybe you can help. I have a 93 Grand Marquis which I bought new shocks for. Only problem is in the rear, I can't get to the top nuts. The old and new shocks use a single stud on the top,(like typical front shocks do) although since they are on the rear, that bolt and nut are stuck way up on a frame bracket. I can see the upper nut, but would need a 1/2 inch open wrench about a foot or more in length just to touch it from the wheel well. Can any of you folks who changed their shocks themselves, or watch someone else change them give me an idea of the procedure. I'm perplexed. This is somewhat embarrasing since I worked on stock cars for over 10 years and have done quite a bit of work on other cars, although mostly older. Of course a stock car racing car is easy to work on since everything is easily accessible.
    Thanks in advance...
  • mhliimhlii Posts: 22
    Yes... the are REALLY hard. I have done about 6 or 7 of them. The best way that I have found to do them is with the car on a lift, you will need a ratcheting wrench for the top bolt. Sometimes you are able to get them out with just that going up under the frame from the back of the rear, but in most cases I have found that the shaft just turns, so therefore you will prob. also need like a 5/32 wrench (that size is a guess) and have someone hold the top of the shaft w/ that while you ratchet away the bigger bolt. If you look at the top of the shaft, at the very tip, you will see that it is set up for you to put a wrench on there incase the shaft turns w/ the bolt. Anyway you look at it they are hard. There was 1 CV that I tryed everything and I could not get the L/R shock off, and ofcorse the gas lines pass right by the tip of that shock so I couldn't tourch it off. It ended up taking me 2 hrs. and I had to use an air chizzle to get it off. O yeah... like I said while you are doing this keep in mind that the gas and brake lines pass with in inces of the tip of the L/R shock!!
  • swong1swong1 Posts: 14
    Ford on their assembly line installs the shocks prior to bolting on the body to the frame hence the problem come time for replacment of the chocks. Some of the repair shops literally drill two large holes in the trunk then plug the holes after replacing the shocks. If you have your heart set on doing it right the only way is to either get the car up in the air or on jacks then do the "million quarter turns" using the half inch open end. Some people have had success turning the body of the shock while another person holds on to the top securing nut. In any event when you replace the worn rears be sure and use a quality replacement shock (bilsteins or gabriel vst truck shocks) since you really don't want to do it a second time! Good luck, you need it , I feel your pain!
  • I need some help finding information on the special edition G/M Marauder.

    Does anyone know the scope on this vehicle. Edmunds.com states that this edition is to be available in 2001. Does anyone know the scoop on this claim?

    Ace
  • I bought my 1999 Crown Victoria LX Sedan new. The ride is different than my 1988 Crown Victoria LX Sedan, it is not as soft, it has more road feel, but I do love the new car. The only problem I have is that the brakes are very squeaky. The car now has approx. 15,000 miles, and the brakes started this at about 8,000. I have brought the car back to two different dealers and they replaced the rear pads (it has 4 wheel disc brakes), but they tell me that this is a common problem. But I want it fixed...their response to me is unsatisfactory. I wrote to Ford and I am awaiting their reply. I feel the car is luxurious and good looking, and the squeaky brakes make it look and sound inferior, hence the old bad reputation Ford did have. I always bought them and have liked them....does anyone out there have the same problem...HELP!!! Please email me at Bobemakk@aol.com with any replies, thanks.....Bob
  • 75,000 miles on my 1998 CV and it just got its first unscheduled repair on Friday: a whopping $200 for a bad multi-function switch on the stalk that controls high beams, washers, turn signals, etc... I'd have to jiggle it sometimes for it to work correctly.

    I have the aftermarket warranty so it didn't cost me a dime, and I probably would have done it myself if it wasn't covered.

    Ford has to do a better job at using quality components. This isn't an uncommon problem and happens on models across the board. Despite the milage, this is a relatively new car and there's no excuse for things like this to be breaking so soon. It's stupid but expensive repairs like this that really turn people off to Ford vehicles, and it shouldn't be. Another example: my sister-in-law had to spend almost $500 to get some ABS sensor/switch replaced on her Windstar with only 40,000 miles on it. Quality is job 1?

    I love my CV and would buy another one. It's been a fantastic car in just about every way. But total reliability (especially pertaining to these nuisance repaiirs) is still a question mark in my mind.
  • are funny little things. $500 for a replacement is abuout right but you know what, that faulty sensor could start working again the next day. My mom took her 1995 Century into the Buick dealer because her ABS light was on and she showed them the light and they diagnosed it and it had a bad sensor on the LF wheel. She came back and they did a check before disassembly and the sensor was fine. Saved my Mom $460. She now has 142,000 on that car and my Dad has 161,000 on his 1992 Century. Mom may need a head gasket though, you can smell the coolant and see it leaking from the cylinder head but it doesn't get hot at all.
  • Thanks for the advise guys, I think. I'll need to give this some thought now before I start wrestling my GM around the garage. I can't believe they didn't think of anything easier, or haven't changed it by now. I'm using Gabriel VST shock so maybe I won't have to change them for a while if I ever get these on. Will definatley start with the left rear, I see what you mean about the lines running by there.
    Another Ford design story - I had a friend who worked at the transmission plant in Ohio. When they shipped the first prototype Escort to them, they installed the, then newly designed, front transaxle assembly. With everything in place, there was no way to get the oil filter off the car without dropping down the steering gear.
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