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It cranks but no go. I have a funny feeling it is the fuel pump but I don't know what to listen to when I am trying to start it.
4 months ago it did this to me. I wasn't able to get it to start for a day. So I call the tow truck the next day and when he arrived, it started! Then it did it again about 2 weeks later however I was able to get it to start after a while of sitting.
Today, I tryed to start it... no go. So I put it in neutral and it turned over but I got about a block away and it died and wouldn't start again. I will probably call the tow truck tomorrow to have them pick it up but I just would like to know what it could be!
Questions:
-How to fix (I've done some light repair work....brakes, batteries, alternators, belt, tail lamp, etc.,...).
-Is it something I can take care of by replacing fuses?
-Or is it the actual fan motor or something else?
-If I need to replace the fan motor, about how much are they new, rebuilt or used from a junk yard?
-Finally, I had a "93 Caprice that I ran to 193,000 miles, replacing the transmission at about 130,000. What's the general word on how long the '97 CVs' transmissions last?
Thanks!
Get a Ford service manual. It will show you how to test the switch.
Ron35
oldcoot29
http://www.seafoamsales.com/
Regulators are about $90. It would take you about 2 hours to replace one.
anyone have a hesitation problem in the automatic transmission noticeable only at around 26mph? Notice that slight jerk at around 26 mph?
on rounding an uneven surface in a curve, anyone feel that the tail, rear end of the car bounces from side to side at freeway speeds? Great on smooth road surfaces.
I speculate that regulators are a sop to the Ford dealers, they have a sure winner there.
If Ford fixed all their problems, it would be a quality car. Then the price would go up and I couldn't afford one. So shut my mouth.
The intake on my 94 is all metal, and it has never had a problem.
On the regulators, they are ready available from aftermarket suppliers.
front: big, toothy grille that reminded me of last year's Hyundai Sonata or Kia Magentis: a series of thick vertical bars with with a heavy chrome frame that did not appear to extend right to the headlights: it was more like a CV in that regard. The grille was very squared at the corners, which doesn't seem to fit with the rounded contours of the rest of the car. Not very flattering.
back: the trunklid reflective plastic has been replaced by some sort of corrugated or otherwise textured body-coloured plastic. It still has a chrome spear along the top, but otherwise reminds me more of a CV. This change actually looks pretty good, at least at a passing glance; the red reflective plastic was starting to look dated, IMO.
So there you go. If anyone has any other details, please spill 'em!
My Grand Marquis 1995 developed extremely bad shudder when switching gears from 3 to 4 (and sometimes 2-3) after transmission fluid change at Jiffy Lube some 5 years ago (never go to Jiffy Lube anymore - they refused to fix it). I went to Ford dealer right after Jiffy screwed up and got transmission fluid changed again to Mercon (as required, not the unknown stuff Jiffy Lube puts in). That made shudder weaker, but still rarther annoyng. I decided that paying twice for transmission fluid change was enough and I learned to live with the shudder - just press or depress accelerator when shudder occurs. The reason of that shudder as many of you know is slipping torque converter in automatic transmission system (more exactly 'catchy' torque converter), Fords are very sensitive to the transmission fluid type.
Anyway, now 5 years and 50,000 miles later I finally decided to visit local transmission shop (Guaranteed transmissions, Lafayette, IN). After loking into the problem they simply changed transmission fluid (it was time anyway) and put in dexron with some "LubeGuard Black" friction modifier supplement. They claimed that they did about 50 police CV's before and it worked 100%. As they predicted the shudder disappeared completely and I only paid $70 for the whole thing! Amazingly that shudder did not damage transmission - the guys said the transmission fluid looked nice and clean with just right amount of junk caught by the filters. As I understand this supplement makes TC more slippery and as the result it catches smoothly at a later time as it is supposed to.
The car still looks like almost new (no rust) and was rather cheap to maintain - for the last 10 years, except for fluids and tires, I only had to get:
* new break pads (~$xxx, don't remember)
* change one power window regulator (~$150)
* replace the multitask signal/light/wiper stick-switch (~$100)
* replace oxygen sensor (~$100)
* replace one front wheel ball joint (~$700?, that was my own fault - my wife was driving with enormously unbalanced Good Year tire and I did not check, the tire was almost triangular in shape and shaking car badly at highway speeds).
* Body shop ($600 - had a big full-size unfolded truck tire fly into the side of the car at 80 mph, cosmetic damage, fixed in bodyshop for $600 (somewhat smaller similar damage to my Toyota was $2400 to fix, just for comparison)).
I think for 10 years of service it is pretty good...
Wayne
60 & under = 26.8, Town Car
60 & towing 3k lb boat/trailer = 15 mpg
Try mixing 50% anti freeze and 50% disstilled water. Perhaps include a water pump lubricant as well.
Where are you located that might pick up a lot of sulphur in their water?
Is there a very high Iron content in your water?
Perhaps the addition of another ground attached to the - terminal of the battery would help. Keeping your terminals clean from corrosion may help negate the electrolisis, if that's what's causing the problem.
The AC/Heater, dash lights and locks went out twice. ..due to the electronic garage door opener shorting out in the left visor and again with the light in mirror on the right visor. The mechanics just disconnected the visor's electrical wires to the visors for $75.00 on each occurence. On another occassion, we also, replaced the fan switch for the auto sensing AC/heater which totally died for just under $250.
Now, the one problem that really ticks me off with Mercury is the $600+ repair for my son's leaky intake manifold gaskets for his '99 V-6 Cougar @ 60K miles..... I hope this is not the same engine in the Montego.
Total cost of ownership is going up.
Been thinking of trading the 94 Mercury myself, but I still am holding it.
Very minor problems with this car puchased used with 35k in 2002:
-driver's floor mat hold-down broken when we got it, short wife pushed mat up under dash getting in and out and it jammed neutral-safety switch intermittently preventing starting. Fix: removed floor mat!
-rear brakes shot at 60k, sticking and causing pulsation due to warped rotors. Fix: loosen-up/back-off calipers - still awaiting complete caliper/rotor/pad replacement before winter
-wife did not screw-down gas cap after fill-up, got check engine light. Fix: tighten gas cap and drive ir for a week before the computer re-set itself!
-terrible winter traction in snow and ice. Fix: could buy snow tires but it is just an annoyance
I'll be looking for a good low milage used 2003/2004 GM again in mid-winter so I can make the '99 my "daily driver". Will hope the next one has Traction Control!