Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Impala Audio

13468952

Comments

  • jreimannjreimann Posts: 11
    Hey could you please email them to me also. I'm going to eventually replacing my amplifier also In my Impala Ls when i get the cash. The wiring page of the shop manual would be really helpful.

    Thanks

    You can get my email by clicking on my login name on this post also... if you are logged into this site.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    Thanks to humahuma, I received a wiring diagram for the plug on the external amp in the trunk for the radio/CD/cassette.

    I tried by-passing the amp but to no avail.

    NOTE: I CANNOT be certain I jumped ins and out correctly. It is one complicated mess. There are 18 wires on that plug - 16 for speakers and 2 others for antenna and amp detect. Some of the labeling in the manual's diagram was ambiguous.

    In brief - here's what I did.
    First, with radio power OFF, I UNPLUGGED the power plug from the trunk amp to avoid the possibility of burning out the amp by operating it without a load.

    Then I unplugged the bigger "C1" plug for sound feeds and returns.

    Next,I jumped the following on the "C1" plug:
    LEFT CH RIGHT CH
    B1 to B2 A1 to A2
    B3 to B4 A3 to A4
    B9 to B10 A9 to A10
    B11 to B12 A11 to A12

    I don't know if this was correct but it was my best guess based on the info in the diagram .

    When I put the key in and turned on the radio, it lit up but nothing happened - No sound from any speaker whatsoever. Same with the tape player.

    It was rather awkard bending over that trunk lip and trying to push my makeshift jumper wires into those little holes on the connector.

    With radio OFF and ignition key pulled, I removed the jumpers and reconnected the power and audio plugs to the amp. Yes, it still worked.

    Maybe someone else will have better results than I did.

    I DO NOT HAVE A WEBSITE BUT IF SOMEONE WANTS TO POST THE SERVICE MANUAL DIAGRAM, (presuming humahuma does not object) I WILL MAKE IT AVAILABLE FOR OTHERS TO SEE AND MAYBE COME UP WITH A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF JUMPS.

    I also look forward to smithy 101 on Impala V posting his Impala stereo setup this weekend.
  • teoteo Posts: 2,508
    Please send me the AMP diagram:

    Frankg@equitrac.com

    Very interested in studying these schematics!

    (Thanks for your last comments in the Impala V topic....we'll have fun this weekend...and make sure you do too!) :)
  • jreimannjreimann Posts: 11
    Assuming that humahuma doesn't mind the service manual diagram being posted I could put it and any info you can come up with jumper combinations on a webpage for everyone. Just email me what you have to put up on a page and I can make one, although since this is memorial day weekend it would be tues/wed before I will have time to do.
  • kevinrumkevinrum Posts: 3
    Mahler1 wrote sometime ago...

    #150 of 169: CD-CHANGER in trunk??? (mahler1) Sat 06 May '00 (10:07 AM)

    Does anyone have the option (MX9) for a trunk mounted CD-CHANGER. This option consists of having the RDS radio with cassette only (ULO). I have been unable to find a changer that works. Has anyone been successful.

    I have the 2000 Monte and purchased this option and have gotten a 12 disc changer that works with the car. Check out http://www.radiosandmore.com/ and pick General Motors and 2000 Impala and that will show your their 12 disc changer for your car, it is the same one for the Monte. In addition the radio MIGHT need to be reprogrammed with the Tech 2 instrument by a dealer in order to talk correctly to the cd changer. In my case my dealer found that even though the wiring harness was installed at the factory it was not connected to the back of the radio. The changer is MUCH cheaper from the website than your dealer will see it to you, but you may need the dealers help to get it up and working.

    Good luck.
  • humahumahumahuma Posts: 17
    Jreimann - I'll e-mail you the diagram next Tue. Duraflex if you want to e-mail it to Jreimann before then it's ok.
  • humahumahumahuma Posts: 17
    Duraflex, boy you sure are fast. It didn't take you very long to try by-passing the amp. Thanks for your hard work and sharing the test results with all of us. To bad it didn't work. My gut told me it wouldn't work. But is was definetly worth a try. There is probably some un-documented connection or signal between the amp and rds radio that needs to be there for them to work as one unit. Thanks again.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    With humahuma's okay, I sent you the diagram for posting on your website.

    Hope you or others come up with a simple or relatively inexpensive fix.
  • jreimannjreimann Posts: 11
    The schematic is online at
    http://members.theglobe.com/reimanjw/

    Be warned it is fairly large (319K).
    I just wanted to get it online quickly so I did'nt play with resizing it. I'll probably put a smaller sized image up later. Also If anyone has any 2000 Impala related material they would like to be put up on the web I would be happy to put it up there if they emailed it too me. I just don't have the time or motivation search for stuff to put up on the page myself.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    Next Wednesday, my Chevy dealer is scheduled to install a replacement amp in the trunk.
    Unless my original amp is an aberration or they've changed the innards in some way, the new one will probably sound the same.

    Has anyone else had their amp replaced by the dealer under warranty?
  • mahler1mahler1 Posts: 3
    I have a copy of the Amp. Plug wiring diagram and suggest you use these strappins for an 8-speaker system with amp.
    Left spkr Right spkr
    B1-to-B9 (LF-) A1-to-A9 (RF-)
    B2 to B10 (LF+) A2 to A10 (RF-+)
    B3 to B11 (LR-) A3 to A11 (RR-)
    B4 to B12 (LR+) A4 to A12 (RR+)
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Posts: 311
    DO YOU JUST DISCONNECT THE PLUGS FROM THE AMP IN THE TRUNK AND THEN JUMP THE WIRES AND DOES THE OTHER PLUG STAY PLUGGED IN?
  • ksicemanksiceman Posts: 2
    Hello all,
    I have been reading the last two forums and thought I would add my .02 cents. I am in law enforcement. My new "unmarked" car is a green base model with the light oak cloth interior. For undercover use, we get base models, no police package. I love the car! In fact, I recently decided to sell my suburban and 24 foot jayco TT and buy a new Impala of my own. I am looking for a Black LS with everything on it. I will opt for the leather buckets and sunroof.
    I have noticed one problem with my car that was addressed in the previous forum. A reader indicated that the drive selection indicator did not light in certain conditions. My car has had that problem. I have not yet returned it for repair, but found the cause to be in the passenger side fuse box. The problem is related to the theatre lighting - I noticed it originally when coming out of the garage. The headlights would shut off but the dash lights (and drive indicator) would not get brighter. After experimentation I discovered I was not hearing the relay kick in. The problem has been traced to the fuse not making good contact. When you touch the fuse, it is VERY hot. Wiggle it and it will begin to work. I have even seen sparks from the base of the fuse holder when wiggling the fuse. Hopefully this wont be a complicated fix.
    Last week when test driving an LS with the 3.8, I noticed the extremely poor quality of the radio. I have been following the info on that as I too am one who couldn't stand the weak sound of the premium system, especially compared to the superior sound of my base stereo in the "plain wrapper."
    BTW, if anyone would like a nice trailer...
  • ksicemanksiceman Posts: 2
    OOPS! I said lighting problem related to theatre lighting... I believe GM refers to the dash light automatically dimming or getting brighter as Parade lighting. Whatever it's called, by design, when you are in bright sunlight the dash panel is supposed to get brighter.
  • mahler1mahler1 Posts: 3
    dura- glad to hear it worked -- you can make it more permanent and neater if you go back from the plug about 2 or 3 inches and skin the proper wires about 1/4 inch - then make necessary strapping either with mash on connectors or by soldering them. Leave both plugs disconnected from the amp.-- it will not have any effect on the radio since no signal is is being sent from amp. to the radio over the amp. sense lead. GOOD LUCK> Of course this is all done at your own risk.
  • I successfully bypassed the amp yesterday,I couldn't believe my ears!It created an even bigger love for my LS,my wife likes the way it sounds now also.I plan on checking a couple electronic stores to see if they can find me a plug just to make it look neater.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    If and when you find that magic plug, pleasre let us all know here on the forum.
  • smithy_101smithy_101 Posts: 17
    I had no Idea that there was a Radio Forum just for the Impala. Pretty cool.
    Basicly all you are doing with the bypass is redirecting the Amp input to the speakers. This would mean that the Head unit is a high level output and not a pre-amp signal. This would explain the lack of bass. If you amplify an already amplified signal, you will get tons of bass distortion. This is wy GM tuned the amp to cut out the really low bass. This prevents you from blowing the speakers and creating a warranty claim. Kinda a Half-Assed way for GM to do this. The correct way for GM to have added the amp would have been to send a preamp signal to the amp and let it ampligy the full range. Oh-Well, at least there is a cure. Oh,, for those of you wondering what the "amp detect" wire is for, this turns the amp on when you start the car.
    As for hanging wires,, I would just get some electrical tape from radio shack, tape it up and zip tieit to the underside of the rear deck. That should clean up the install a little.

    Oh,, and I too have a different kind of Impala Radio bypass... :)
    http://www.myloudcar.com

    This is what I came up with... :)
  • smithy_101smithy_101 Posts: 17
    I had no Idea that there was a Radio Forum just for the Impala. Pretty cool.
    Basicly all you are doing with the bypass is redirecting the Amp input to the speakers. This would mean that the Head unit is a high level output and not a pre-amp signal. This would explain the lack of bass. If you amplify an already amplified signal, you will get tons of bass distortion. This is wy GM tuned the amp to cut out the really low bass. This prevents you from blowing the speakers and creating a warranty claim. Kinda a Half-Assed way for GM to do this. The correct way for GM to have added the amp would have been to send a preamp signal to the amp and let it ampligy the full range. Oh-Well, at least there is a cure. Oh,, for those of you wondering what the "amp detect" wire is for, this turns the amp on when you start the car.
    As for hanging wires,, I would just get some electrical tape from radio shack, tape it up and zip tieit to the underside of the rear deck. That should clean up the install a little.

    Oh,, and I too have a different kind of Impala Radio bypass... :)
    http://www.myloudcar.com

    This is what I came up with... :)
  • smithy_101smithy_101 Posts: 17
    I hate it when I post twice like that...
  • miricmiric Posts: 6
    I took off the front grille and removed the speaker to measure the bolt pattern. It is 6.25in.
    This is on reason why standard speakers of 6.5in
    will not fit. I plan to go to a car stereo store
    to see what might fit that would not cost an arm and a leg. At he same time I will inquire about another amp, I will try to find a small, 25-50watt
    per channel. If I do replace the amp I plan to replace the rear speakers also with some upgraded
    6x9. I don't plan to spend alot, but do plan to do the work myself. Rewiring the amp will be the worst part but certainly it can be done.
    I'll repost what information I can find.
  • smithy_101smithy_101 Posts: 17
    One word of caution you need to follow when adding these speakes is to make sure you get the speaker polarity correct. (-,+)
    If the polarity is reversed, the speaker will still work, but will be out of phase with the other and hence you will not get as much bass as you would like. If you do this, replace both speakers, and see how that sounds. The factory speakers should sound fine. The only drawback to the factory speakers is that they can not handel any power. If you ever add an amp to the system, you will need to replace these.
  • jreimannjreimann Posts: 11
    The difference in how it sounds is amazing!!!
    I'm actually getting BASS out of my front speakers like I should. Even before I hooked my subwoofer back in the system it sounded great.
    And with the subwoofer I've got tons of bass plus enough power coming out of the front speakers to make it sound just awesome. I wish I had known about bypassing the amp a couple of months ago, I might not have even bought the subwoofer box and amp. Oh well It was my tax refund anyway that I spent on the subs.
  • bob1951bob1951 Posts: 7
    I have 2 questions for those who have bypassed their external amps in the trunk. First does the CD player still work OK when you do this? I thought the purpose of the external amp was to power the CD player. Second, does this bypassing do anything for the radio reception problem? I assume this is still an antenna problem and the fading in and out of stations is still a big issue to me.
  • humahumahumahuma Posts: 17
    To everyone, especially duraflex, thanks for your efforts in making my theory of by passing the amp a reality. If you gotta turn down the bass and the treble up... Now that's the way a good radio is supposed to work. If anyone has the capability to make a jumper plug to by-pass the amp that would be the cats meow. You could make a few bucks and sell it to all of us.

    Someone who has by-passed the amp has to demonstrate this to a chevy dealer to prove:
    The amp is a problem.

    Duraflex, did you ever get your replacement amp installed. Did it have the same problem????

    Take care everyone and enjoy the richness of your new improved radio w/o that worthless amp.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    Radio, CD and tape cassette work beautifully.

    As I posted earlier, even the Auto volume adjust for speed compensation works.

    It does not solve all the reception problems - however WITHOUT the amp, AM seems somewhat less prone to interference when driving alongside power lines. Also, the AM signal from NYC, about 90 miles away seems slightly stronger with less white noise.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    Thank you for sending the wiring diagram. Although it had terminology that was totally unlike any I've ever seen.

    It was jjmahler who figured it out. God Bless him. He wrote me that he has YEARS of experience reading schematics and he did us all a great service.

    No - I did not get the replacement amp installed last Wednesday because of an unanticipated scheduling problem on my end. They're still holding it for me. I'll probably get it but my expectations are low.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    Glad you like the new sound.

    If you decide you want to sell the subwoofers and reclaim some trunk space and some dollars, there's always regional ebay and the local newpapers!

    My guess is you could get at least half of what you paid.
  • I'd be willing to pay for someone to make that buypass switch for me.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    #197 was from me - duraflex.
    Don't know why it dropped my username.
13468952
Sign In or Register to comment.