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Dodge/Plymouth Neon

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  • I forgot to add: how many and what size bolts are there involoved with the starter?
  • I just bought a 2001 Plymouth Neon with 75000 miles on it. It ran fine for about a day, and then this humming noise started happening. At first it wasn't very often, but then it increased in frequency and the A/C started blowing warmer air. The noise is a low pitched humming/squealing type of noise. I thought it might be a belt, since I just got this and it probably hadn't been changed, so I checked the belt that runs the compressor and the power steering, and the mark on the tensioner showed that it needed replacing because it had become looser. So I replaced that belt and the alternator belt because they are easier to get to, and I thought that would fix the problem. However, the sound is still there today and the A/C is doing the same thing of kicking in and out with cold air. When I hear the noise, I can feel the car vibrate slightly and sort of pull a little bit. I was just wondering if anyone had had a problem like this before or if anyone knows what might be the problem. Today I looked at the tensioner again, and I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may have stretched the belt out a bit. Also, when I turn the A/C off it runs perfectly fine and doesn't make any noise.

    Thanks for your help!
  • Sounds like your AC needs recharging. Easy fix at your local Autozone. They sell the complete kit to do it yourself. Mine made a similar noise and my AC blew completely hot air and after I recharged it the air was ice cold in the hottest of days. No more noise. I believe the noise is the recharge system trying to suck the remaining freon that's in it and it is struggling to do so. :D
  • justus3justus3 Posts: 21
    I bought a Neon brand new in Feb.' 03 and just love it to death. It's my baby. But I have noticed that the factory stereo w/cd cuts out once in awhile. There have been a number of times when if the stereo is on and the car door (driver's) gets opened it will cut out then too. A couple of times when I got in the car and started it, the chime will ring a few extra times and the stereo quits working. There is still power to it but no sound coming from the speakers. I have to shut the car off and restart it, then the stereo has sound again. The only add on I have made is having a subwoofer installed, but I think it was already cutting out occasionally when the car door was opened before the sub was even installed. I just thought it was a fluke before but now it is getting worse and my b2b warranty just expired, of course. I suppose it could be a whole lot worse, but even this small thing is of concern. I don't want something real major to get shorted out. Has anyone else had a problem like this, and if so what can be done to fix it, short of spending a king's ransom to have all the wiring checked? :confuse:
  • justus3justus3 Posts: 21
    I don't know too much about cars but I heard those are alway the first gears to go when your transmission goes caput. Good luck with it.
  • I had the same intermittent speedometer and instrument problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent fuel gauge with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent speedometer & fuel gauge problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent speedometer problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent instrument problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • Okay my 97 neon keeps cutting off like if i apply the brakes it will die.
    Also there is oil where the spark plugs are? Any suggestions what it might be and how expensive to fix?
  • The dying of your car applying the brakes sounds like a crossed wire. The oil coming from your spark plugs is the gasket thats on the bottom of the cylinder. Had the same problem with my 99 and I caught it a week after I bought the car last year. Therefore the dealer had to fix it. :)
  • djksrdjksr Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 dodge Neon. I have a rattle in the front suspention that I can not find. I have replaced the struts,lower controll arms with new balljoints,new outer tierod ends, new control arm pins and bushings new break pads and rotors and a 4 wheel alienment, but i still have the rattle can anyone help me with this problem.
  • i have a 95 neon 5 sp manual SOHC
    driving down the highway with no warning it just cut off and will not crank...i retreived the codes from the check engine light blinkings and the codes were
    #11 timing belt skipped one tooth or more from initial learned value.. intermittent loss of either camsheft or crankshaft position sensor.. no crank referance signal detected during engine cranking
    and
    # 32 EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system failure
    then the #55 {end of error}
    can any one help me?
  • How many miles are on your Neon? If over 130,000 and you never changed your timing belt, guess what? You guessed it. Time to change it. You'll also have to have your waterpump changed with it and might as well have your radiator flushed. :cry:
  • Hi:

    I have a Dodge Neon (2000) and just went about replacing the lower control arms. Passenger side went Okay but rear bolt (rusty) very tight. On driver side the nut broke loose inside the frame and I cannot see where to get at it. Pulling up carpet there appears to be a round circle in the plastic panel under carpet approximately where and access might be. Am I on the right track here???http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emo- torcons/emo_confused.gif
    http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorcons- /emo_confused.gif
  • Well, the little round outline in the plastic floor coving was not it. Next choice is to cut the bolt and drop the cross member hoping there is a slotted hole to insert a new nut through. Failing that my choice will be to cut such a slot, put a nut in and weld it inplace through the slot. Last cjhoice would be cut an access hole in side of frame member, replace nut and weld plate over hole.

    Come on now. suggestions?

    :confuse:
  • i have 144 k miles on my car....thanks for the input..will let you know the outcome :sick:
  • phishinphishin Posts: 1
    hey, just bought a 2.0 4dr sedan, and one of the 1st people i talk to about it said that they have a history of computers going bad. specificly he said at about 120,000 miles, at a cost of about $1,000 to replace. car has 102,000 miles on it and runs great. any imput would be greatly appreciated. thanx
  • I have replaced computers omn cars and they are in the range of 100-200. You can get them cheap at auto stores.
  • A friend borrowed my car, the cables got crossed while jumping and now I have the following problems:
    1) the A/C only works when I am on the breaks
    2) the windshield wiper delay doesnt work
    3) the white rear lights that come on when in reverse don't work
    4) the 4 disc CD player doesnt get any power to it
    5) the rear window defroster doesn't work.
    6) Fuse 7 which says EBL, A/C etc keeps blowing when replaced.
    All of these problems started after the cables got crossed. Any ideas?
    I drive a 2000 plymouth neon LX
  • I just bought a 99 Plymouth Neon Highline the other day and everything is fine. Well, except for today when my air bag light came on for about 5-10 seconds while driving home. Is this anything to be concerned about?...it hasn't happened again since.
  • This happened to me also. First my oil light came on and went off then the air bag and then my speedometer dropped to zero while I was going 70MPH on the highway. It turned out to be a simple problem. My battery needed to be changed. I got a flat coming home, turned my car off to change it and my car wouldn't start that afternoon. If that isn't it, check your fuse box. :)
  • My 95 neon guages quit, no gas, speedo, heat, batt etc. runs perfect. checked fuses, dont seem to be problem.wots up.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi and welcome - you might also want to post this in our Electrical Problems discussion while you are waiting for an answer here. That will pretty much cover all the bases.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    All of these problems started after the cables got crossed. Any ideas?
    I drive a 2000 plymouth neon LX


    With a hobby that involves electronics and having installed mobile transceivers in vehicles for the last 20 years, I can tell you that you're not going to like my answer.

    You've basically fried everything electrical in the car.

    By reversing the cables, you reversed the polarity of every electrical appliance in the car -- and it probably does not matter whether these devices were on or off at the time.

    No. 6 of your list would infer that you've checked all your fuses -- but just to be sure, check all of them again! Including the fuses under the hood. You may find that some big ol' main fuse blew to protect all of these things. If it didn't, and the reverse polarity made it to the items you listed, you can pretty much count on them being fried.

    I connected a mobile VHF radio backward once, and the immediate flames and acrid smoke were an indication that something was oh-so-very-slightly amiss. It was a total loss as a couple of circuit boards inside had completely melted in the two seconds power was applied.

    Bad news -- sorry!

    Meade
  • Hey there,

    Crankshaft mounting is dependent on a 'taper' fit, and can be very difficult to remove. Very similiar to a snowmobile primary clutch assembly. The proper tool for the repair is a three jaw puller with special claws to grab onto the pully. Snap-on part number is ya9740a, and some technicians opt not to purchase this expensive tool as its primary use is for chrysler crank pulleys. It comes with two extensions to engage the end of the crankshaft as the hole is countersunk into the shaft. Although they can be difficult to remove, they always come off. Cheating with another type of pully may not exude the nec force to remove the pulley and I have found that lightly tapping the end of the tool will usually 'shock' the taper and cause it to pop off.
  • miradamirada Posts: 2
    Hello, I am looking for help. I own a '95 Plymouth neon highline, SOHC. The engine is in a constant high idle state. My mechanic cannot find and problem and told me to drive it and maybe it would work itself out. But I refuse to believe I am the only neon who has had this problem. I am not driving it because I feel I am either going to sprout wings and fly or blow my engine. This year off the top of my head, I have replaced the EGR, O2 sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, MAP, IAC, and the computer.
  • miradamirada Posts: 2
    Hi, I think I may be able to get you one possibility. I had that happen to me and I had to have my control panel replaced. If you have someone else do this for you, please make sure that they put in the light bulbs before putting it back into the dash. Without certain 'alarm' lights you are going to have a few problems.
  • romerunromerun Posts: 1
    Hello, I've just got the neon from an auction without knowing that it's mileage is 200,000. What a fool I am. It's also manual transmission ! I don't even know how drive manual ! OH MY GOD. I'm going to pick it tomorrow... My question is, Plymouth NEON 2000 is still ok with 200,000 ? One of my friend told me that it's clutch might be worn out.. Hm.. i'm really worry about it.
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