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Dodge/Plymouth Neon

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  • Its very possible that this could be the problem.The suspect item is called the Distance/Speed Sensor. It's an electrical item, mechanically driven by the speedometer drive mechanism in the tailshaft of the transaxle.The DSS apparently contains 15 or 16 reed switches wired in parallel. These reed switches are arranged radially around a shaft with an eccentric magnet. As the shaft turns, the DSS produces 15 (or 16) open-close cycles per rotation.

    At least one of the many reed switches sticks closed intermittently, shorting the entire sensor closed; hence, the engine control computer thinks the vehicle is at rest.

    this is something that a dealer or professional mechanic will have to fix. the tools are very hard to come buy and only a dealer or professional mechanic will have them.

    good luck
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,201
    You sound like a happy camper, who otherwise wouldn't be without the estended warranty.

    What car/model would you replace your '96 Neon with when it finally dies, or do you think it may go to 300,000, in which case it's too early to even think about a replacement?
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hpmctorque: Odd you would ask what I would replace it with. At 197,600 miles our daughter was driving the Neon and the timing belt broke. (I had it replaced at 99,000) miles and it just broke because a tensioner pully gave out. I had the timing belt and the pully replaced. However when they restarted the engine it had a HUGE missing and it was caused by bent valves. So now I am considering putting a used low mileage engine in. I found an engine with 42,000 miles on it for $819. including shipping. They want $550. to put the engine in. Due to a financial shortage I don't plan on fixing the Neon until lare Jan. or Feb. of 2009. I knew it was a 50/50 chance that the valves might be bent, so I lost the gamble, no ones fault but my own, so $368. was down the drain. Win some and lose some.
    We have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD and we really are pleased with it so we really are not in a rush to get the Neon fixed.

    farout
  • sahmedsahmed Posts: 1
    I wish I could add pictures, but it doesn't seem possible within this service. I have an aluminum cylinderical part which is connected to the fuel line coming from the fuel pump, and it has a rubber fuel line running to the fuel rail. This part is very close to the firewall. Here's the problem, it's leaking fuel from the bottom of this part onto the rack and pinion. Any idea what this part is? Thanks.
  • 99rt99rt Posts: 1
    I bought one of his repaired circuit boards and have not had a problem since
  • Hi, i was a owner of a New 2005 Neon. I got its oil changes done on time. It was well Maintained and it was good until 65000k then i had to get a new dash cause it was wrinkling on the right hand side of the windshield. They said they never had that happen before. So i got a new dash i was happy then not even 3 weeks later i took my car in cause i was told it was noises in the cold mornings. So they tell me i need a New engine. Again I hear the same thing this hasn't happen before they can't believe that it needs a new engine. ( their meaning new is a rebuilt) :sick: :mad: :lemon: I Now Own a 08 Pontiac Grand Prix and love it
  • I have a 1997 Dodge Neon 2.0L 16 valves DOHC, my problem is to find a similar because this one blows, what about if i install a 2.4 L 16 DOHC from a Ply Brezee, looks similar like 2.0L is any difference on engine supports or other parts like sensors, etc. Thanks for your information.
  • MY 97 HAS ONLY 122.000 ON IT RIGHT NOW, BUT I WAS GETTING 26 TO 28 MPG, I REPLACED THE PULLEYS WITH SOME AFTER MARKET ONE THAT ARE LIGHTER AND SMALLER, I NOW GET RIGHT AT 32. I ALSO HAVE OTHER MODS AND HAVE 243 HORSE WITHOUT A BLOWER ON A SOHC 2.0, AND PLAY AROUND ALOT, MY AFTER MARKET THROTTLE BODY HAS ALSO HELPED AND I DID NOT PUT ALOT OF MONEY INTO THESE ITEMS, CHECK OUT MODERN PERFORMANCE.COM. THEY HAVE A LOT OF THINGS FOR NEONS AT REASONABLE PRICES. I USE THEM AND WILL CONTINUE UNTIL I HAVE AT LEAST 300 PLUS HORSE, CHECK OUT THE PULLEYS, AND READ THE COMMENTS OTHERS HAVE POSTED ABOUT THEM, YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF DOING THE SAME, HOPE THIS HELPS. :)
  • I'M NO PRO BUT HAVE BUILT ALOT OF DIFFERENT HOT RODS, HAS ANY ONE SUGGESTED TAKING OFF THE TIMING BELT COVER AND CHECKING TO SEE IF THE BELT IS BROKE OR GEARS?
  • Was thinking about doing the same thing to mine, have u found out any info on this kind of swap? thank you, slimsimmons55
  • Needed info on trannys, will a first gen neon tranny work with a second gen neon? Will the 2.0 tranny bolt up to a 2.4 engine? if anyone can assit me in these answers that would b great!! Thanks
  • pmk6pmk6 Posts: 2
    We are having trouble with our plymouth breeze(identical to Stratus) When we start the car it automatically blows fuses. They say the alternator, starter and solenoid check out okay.

    Does anyone know why the fuses may be blowing? My husband has already checked the heating coil, and the fuse did not blow when the wire to the solenoid was disconnected.

    Would appreciate any replies or suggestions!
    Thanks
  • Adam_CAdam_C Posts: 7
    how much did you pay for your rear sway bar?
  • Adam_CAdam_C Posts: 7
    alot of the time when i start my car the headlights and heater fan inside the car dims until i hit the gas and spin the alternator. somtimes even when im driving ill come to a stop and let it idle and it does the same thing...however i have never needed to jump it unless i left the lights on...so it seems to be charging the battery. and when i go through some deep snow it slows down regardless if im hitting the gas. any thoughts??

    also it doesnt like to start very well in the cold unless ive been dumping stuff in the gas to make it start cold. but once ive run out it will sit in the cold for 3 hrs and not want to stay running. any mods i could do to fix it without constantly having to dump [non-permissible content removed] in my tank?

    instument cluster/ speedometer stops working all the time..it will either just not work or it will die when im driving..it will eventually come back but not without it jumping up and falling down a couple times. had sensor fixed and a wire reattached when it didnt work at all right after i bought the car now it does this. also all the guages freeze every once in a while. solution anyone?
  • Adam_CAdam_C Posts: 7
    try pouring hot water on the fuel rail befor you start it then let it warm up for a couple min befor you drive it....see what it does
  • Last year when I had to take my car in for an emmisions test. I had to take it to some one on their list for professional repair . During the process the replaced my sway bar and fixed my emissions problem the over all bill was 569 dollars. the main thing was the sway bar it costed about 299 dollars It took it to the local dodge dealership they did not charge for the full price of the mechanic to work on it. So I got a deal. :D
  • I was a large equipment mechanic for 16 year before taking a job as an IT Support Analyst, so I know my way around the mechanical end of most vehicles. I have 2003 Dodge Neon that my daughter crashed 2 months after getting her drivers license. It was a fron end collision that pushed the radiator into the intake manifold and the fenders fair enough back to prevent the doors from opening correctly. My question is would it be better to replace the entire front clip or is it possible to straighten it out properly. We did not have full coverage insurance on this vehicle so insurance isn't helping out at all. We have since purchased her a new car, but would like to get this one going again so my wife can drive it to work as it is much more fuel efficient than her Expedition. If you need more details please let me know. I just have not had that much experience at body work, but have this a my winter project.TIA
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    change the clip. straightening is labor intensive,requires skill and takes time and still needs paint. you have tools and skills to change parts and they are not compromised. fit and finish is the goal. ;)
  • walt22walt22 Posts: 1
    My 1998 Plymouth Neon was idling (for about ten minutes), then just shut down. Now it cranks, but will not fire, and no lights are working. No headlights, interior light, parking lights, or turn signals. Also, the radio and heater fan do not work. I've checked all fuses.
  • pmk6pmk6 Posts: 2
    Our 1999 Ply Breeze will not start. The alt., cylenoid, and battery all checked ok. When we try to start the car it keeps blowing fuses. Any suggestions?
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    what fuses is it blowing. check all the wire running from the battery to the starter and make sure you have no unintentional grounds. look for any wires that are burned or touching metal. check all wires leaving battery on positive side.
  • I just bought a 2000 neon and I can't figure out how to turn on the fog lights. I've tried for 30 mins. I'm sure it's infront of my face but I just can't see it. Please Help
  • On the headlight knob on the left turn the headlights on and then pull out the nob. note: you cannot turn on just your fog lights. your headlights have to be on first.
  • I HAVE OIL ON MY PLUG AND NO ANTIFREEZE IN IT. I ALSO ONLY SEE SMOKE JUST FOR A SECOND WHEN IT STARTS, THEN SHE RUNS FINE. I CHANGED THE VALVE COVER GASKETS AND STILL SAME PROBLEM. I GUESS IT COULD BE BENT PLUG TUBE OR MIS-INSTALLED GASKET BUT I JUST DONT THINK SO. ONCE IN A WHILE I SMELL ANTIFREEZE BUT JUST A LITTLE. I AM THINKING OF SENDING IT IN FOR NEW VALVE COVER AND GASKETS, POSSIBLY A HEAD JOB AND OR ? ANY SUGGESTIONS?
  • i own a 95 sohc with 113k miles. wanting to put some money in it a little at a time. looking for more hp. i need to do a tune-up on it. tune-up related what can i do to achieve more hp without having to get to involved with other things? What r the best plugs and wires? should i get a new coil and ingnition? pleez fill me in.
  • lakeg41lakeg41 Posts: 9
    The cars are exactly the same in dimensions etc. The only difference is the name plate .That was the main reason they dropped the Plymouth name .Total redudency w/ product .Years ago a Plymouth was a Plymouth and a Dodge was a Dodge .The 2 companies had different vehicles based on the same platforms such as Valiant and Dart ,but they were different in look and design .Very many shared parts but not the same car . Towards the end the cars were just re-labeled for each company . One funny thing though I have to mention about the Acclaim and Spirit models .Even though these 2 cars were almost identical in body and look (except for exterior lighting) the Plymouths always rated higher in crash tests .I don't why .
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    If you haven't changed the timing belt and put a new pully and water pump, than that is what to do right NOW! The neon engines valves will hit the pistons and bend valves. Also when you ever remove the head you MUST buy NEW head bolts. A good valve job with new bolts and labor will run you $ 600. + I did all the things above at 92,000 miles and at 197,000 miles the pully broke and the belt snapped and so we had to do everything. Beleive me that sucks!

    farout.
  • looking for some info on heads. I am wondering if you can bolt a dohc head on a sohc block without cahanging the pistons? Any info would be great.
  • Hi, Liz... I have the same problem, except that it's only the driver side door. I realize that you had posted this nearly two and half years ago, but I was wondering if you had managed to fix your problem? If you wouldn't mind emailing me, I'd appreciate it.
    Thx.
  • I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon with 101K miles. Have had this current problem for the last 6 mos. but has been intermittent and gradual. My automatic locks are constantly clicking while I drive, above 30 and 40 mph. My dome light also turns on occassionally while driving and my dash reads that a door is ajar, even though it is not.

    Any ideas?
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