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Dodge/Plymouth Neon

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  • I was driving my girlfriends 1997 neon on the highway when the spark plug on the 4th cylinder blew. I had it taken to a shop to be repaired. The shop told me that the porcelain part exploded and the other end was still threaded in the socket. He replaced all the plugs and installed a new ignition wire system. He couldn't find any pieces of the exploded spark plug and thinks they may be in the cylinder.

    I have driven the car on the highway 3 separate times now and it seems to drive ok although there was a little engine noise but that seems to have gone away now. The problem now is that the car does not start well. I have to press the gas pedal a bit when starting the car or it stalls. this was not a problem before. I expect there are still pieces of the spark plug in the cylinder. could they be blocking the fuel coming into the cylinder and causing the stalling problem? What other hazards are there about not knowing where the exploded parts of the spark plug are? the car has 119,000 miles so i don't think she wants to invest much money into the vehicle.

    any input is welcome.
  • I can't imagine that the porcelain part of the plug is in your cylinder. Double check the plugs, gaps on them and also check your wires. Make sure they are all connected. It is possible that your coil pack is gone because of the explosion. Cheap fix if you search eBay for a coil pack. I installed new plugs, new wires, and new air filter and not knowing that one of the wires :cry: was broken internally and after replacing them with factory (Mopar) wires, the car runs tops. Also, make sure your plugs are Champions. :D
  • The shop installed all new plugs and wires (ended up being about a $100). The plugs are champions. I haven't checked the gaps and wires since they were just installed by a shop.

    Any guess as to why the car is having difficulty starting and stalls? If the porcelain exploded into small enough pieces couldn't it get into the cylinder?
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    The porcelain on the sparkplug is all above the threaded part that goes into the cylinder. Most likely there was a defect in the porcelain, it got hot, and popped. The engine itself has "explosions" all the time - the combustion - much stronger than the ceramic popping. Unless the mechanic let the pieces fall into the chamber, nothing is in there - assuming the "pipe" that covers the spark plug below the valve cover wasn't punctured. It all depends on how your mechanic removed the plug. Did he "vacuum" it first? Did he have to replace the tube over the plug up to the valve cover?
  • shymerm8shymerm8 Posts: 7
    Thank you for the heads up. I will keep the gasket thing in mind. I was pretty mad though when my car was over heating and they said it was my radiator and so they checked it and said it was al right after all. So they flushed the radiator thinking their might be a clog some where. Then when I went to pick up my car I got a nice radiator flush bill and no solution to my problem other than it might be my gasket and those are expensive the guy said. So yeah took it to another place they said it was my radiator cap and wanted to charge me 45 dollars worth of labor to put the cap on. I mean how hard is it to put one on ?? I'm not that retarded so I put a new one on myself and it kept overheating. So then we went back to the place 2 weeks later to tell them the car was still overheating and we put a new cap on because they said that was my problem and told them that they should take the car back and retest it for free. The guy was a total jerk and said they could not because they were not the ones that put it on so it could have been put on wrong I laughed and walked out and told them I would never do business with them again. So any ways so I picked up a thermostat because my friend that works on dodges said that might be my problem. So I had a family friend who works on cars install a thermostat and my upper and lower motor mounts for $ 115.00 and the dealership wanted to charge us 425.00 for the same stuff lol. The car is working good again so far no overheating our thermostat was yucky so I'm sure that was the problem. However it went to two different car places even a chrysler dealer and why could they no see it was my thermostat ??? Now I will see how long it will run without breaking down again I hope not in 3 months like it always does. :confuse:
  • I went to start my car the other day and when I turned the key, I didn't even get a click. The accessories came on and the battery was fully charged, so I checked to make sure the clutch switch wasn't jammed or disconnected. Then I popped the hood and discovered that the in-line 5-amp fuse that lays right on top of the main electrical trunk coming through the firewall was smashed, so I replaced the fuse and whaddya know, it started right up. It ran fine for three days, then last night, it did the same thing as before and I checked the new fuse and it looks fine. Does anyone have any idea about this problem?
  • Don't swear off all dodges just because of the 2000 neon.

    I actually used to own a 2000 neon ES. After 6 months, the battery died. One of my rims bent a few months later. After that, I had a slew of problems, including the O2 sensor and cam sensors going out on it, the power system dying twice(in one year), the lock on the door messing up (where the door wouldn't close at all), etc. etc.

    I traded it in after two years and got a 2003 Dodge Dakota. I NEVER have had problems with my dakota, at all. The only reason I'm looking for another vehicle now is cost (with gas prices and stuff). :(
  • You might want to check/replace your spark plugs. Mine did something similar to that, and that's what it was on mine.
  • charizardcharizard Posts: 1
    Remove the fuse in the dash that controls the solenoids for the locking doors. This will kill the screaching sound (And your power locks). Usually what happens is the solenoid inside the door (the one with the noise) needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, you have to replace the entire locking mechanism.. about $150 at the Dealer, just for the part. As far as the car thinking the doors are open, that is caused by shutting the door with the seatbelt between the door and the car frame. The seatbelt connector may have damaged the Button as well. In most case, you can change the buttons with replacements from the dealer. This you can do yourself since there is only one screw holding them in, and an electrical connector to connect the wires. This should solve that problem. If your shoulder belt is not retracting fully before you shut the door, or you slam your doors often, the button will be damaged again. You may also try to raise the ding a little using a penny or dime taped to the door jamb. If you have noticed that one door will not lock/unlock the other doors, or set the alarm, then you have a broken sensor on the inside of the door lock. That too is a replaceable part, but once again, its a dealer item.
  • jules923jules923 Posts: 1
    This past Sunday, my husband was driving my 2002 Neon over a new speed bump. Neither of us thought he was driving that fast but, we came down VERY hard on the top of the bump. I even commented at the time, "I hope that didn't crack my oil pan."

    Monday, the car ran fine. However Tuesday afternoon, I noticed the car making and unusual noise intermittently. I sounded like there was paper or plastic caught up in the tires or something. I could not see any thing when I looked and the noise would go away for long periods. About 2 miles from my house the car jerked really hard (at about 50 mph) and then continued on. I got about a block away from home and there was a terrible grinding noise and vibration (it almost sounded and felt like a tire blew out) the I lost forward momentum, but the engine continued to run. Needless to say, the tires were fine...I pretty sure we stripped the gears in the automatic transmission, because it rolls like it's in neutral when it's actually in reverse. We can make forward progress at about 3 mph (thank heaven it happened near the house) :) ! If anyone can verify this assumption w/o actually looking at the vehicle and recommend whether or not this is something we can repair or have a mechanic look at, I would appreciate it!
  • airdyairdy Posts: 2
    I've been trying to get info and specs on chrysler neon 1.6se 2001 model that is either manufactured in South Africa or imported? can anyone help? thanks.
  • lacyrclacyrc Posts: 1
    I bought a 95' Neon and now am having some problems. Well, one big problem. My car is leaking oil and we think that it might becoming from the rear main seal. When I bought it there was no oil leaking and now there is a butt load. I was wondering if anyone has had the same problem or anything of the sort. The car has 122 thousand miles, and for most cars thats not bad, but when it comes to a Neon this is the first one I have owned and have no idea. I was also wondering if it would be cheaper to just rebuild the motor or replace the seal.
  • greenneongreenneon Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you ever got an answer to your starting problem. Or if you were able to find the problem. I have had a relatively good experience with my 1995 Neon until just recently. The car has about 65,000 miles and has required very little maintenance. But lately I have had trouble starting it. Eventually it may start after a little while but then last week I was driving and stepping on the gas with nothing. The car just cut off and would not start for another 15 minutes or so. I have had someone looking at it. Changed some coil. But that is not the problem because it has been acting up again and needed to be towed. Did you find any solution?
  • matosapamatosapa Posts: 1
    I'm stuck. I need to replace the radiator on my 1998 Plymouth Neon 2.0L SOCH Automatic Transmission and Air Conditioning. I have been able to remove the right (passenger) side fan but I cannot get the left (driver's side) fan out. if I move it back far enough, the fan motor gets stuck under the engine block. If I manage to pull it up a bit it gets stuck on the battery box. Can somebody help me with the removal and reinstallation of that fan? I need to get that fan out to remove the Automatic Transmission lines so I can pull the radiator.

    I wish I had long skinny arms with 3 more elbow joints! :D
  • thesehandsthesehands Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2003 Dodge Neon and the alternator has already went out twice. About 2 weeks ago, I was driving it and it shut off and the brakes locked up, causing it to skid out of control. I had the dealership that I bought it at come get it, and they said that they couldnt figure out what was wrong. They have now sent it to a Dodge Dealer.....any ideas on what may have happened?
  • podunk503podunk503 Posts: 45
    We have a 2000 neon that has problems with the alarm siren inadvertently activating. We found a tsb for this problem in alldata, took it to the dealer and the tech looked up the info and said that this was not applicable to the USA. We already replaced all the door pins in all four doors because we were having problems with the dome light coming on and dash reading door was open. The tech said that the tsb called for replacing the keyless entry module under the top of the dash and running a series of codes to fix the problem, but insisted that it was not for ones manufactured in the US and not sure if that would fix the problem. Does anyone have advice in this matter? I would enjoy being able to lock the doors again.
  • pamelakaypamelakay Posts: 2
    I'd appreciate any help. when we turn on cruise, dash says it is on. When we engage cruise, dash says it is set. Unfortunately, it is not. Most of the time it does not engage at all. Once and awhile it will engage but disengages immediately. Can anyone offer suggestion and how to fix. thanks
  • purplerosepurplerose Posts: 3
    A few of us have been talking about this on here already, same situation. It is the most annoying thing. I took the fuse out of my neon to stop the door from making a horrible sound when it is trying to automatically lock. That worked for the lock but not the door light saying the door is open and not the alarm problem. I can't lock my doors, I took the dome light out but the reading lights still light up when it is acting up. I can not afford to pay the dealer there crazy prices to fix this and have not been able to find a garage who will touch it. If you do find anything out please let this board know. And if I do I will post it as well. I tried the duct tape over the door sensor....didn't work. I tried to figure out how to disarm the alarm and cannot. Good luck with this.
  • jkobbjkobb Posts: 51
    I was just browsing thru the Neon postings , because I`m pretty caught up on my cars postings . I`ve noticed that in the postings on my car they are mostly favorable , and that a majority love this car . On the Neon it seems to be nothing but problem after problem . And I`ve noticed not just Neons but Chrysler cars in general have a large number of head gasket problems. :(
  • iris1iris1 Posts: 1
    I know it has been a while since this post and you may not even be returning to this site any more, but I'll ask any way. Do you know what component that would be that was faulty on the air conditioning? My '98 Neon's air stopped working and it's not the coolant system and it doesn't show up on the computer as an electrical problem. I did read about a part that could be the problem but usually doesn't show up as faulty but lost that info before I could get the car into the mechanic. Any ideas? Thanks
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