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Dodge/Plymouth Neon

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  • Was wondering if anyone has experienced this before? My front tires only have 9,000 miles on them and when I get up to 75 MPH, my steering wheel vibrates for awhile and it will stop. When I take my hands off of the wheel it does not pull to either the left or the right. Goes over bumps with no problem and it started this when I checked my tire pressure and I noticed my front tires were 28 PSI. I wnet ahead and pumped them up to 33 PSI. I'll have to admit that no matter how much air is in them they still look like they are low. I believe that part is typical with Neons. I'm still in a daze as far as the steering wheel vibration. :confuse:
  • nbafan101nbafan101 Posts: 3
    I was driving on the high way and my plastic wheel well liner of my 03 neon came off and got caught in my tire and was shredded and i need to know if anyone knows a wedsite or anything besides a dealer to get a new wheel well liner for an 03 neon? :confuse:
  • capi1capi1 Posts: 1
    I really need help with this.
    I just purchased a 97 Neon from a coworker that uses it everyday. The radiator was bad so I took it out last week in order for me to put in a new one this weekend.

    I replaced the new radiator and now the car will not start. When you turn the key it cranks and turns the engine perfect, but the weird thing is it feels as if its not getting any fuel. Also, the radio, the headlights, the horn, turn signals do not work. And when you put on your blinkers a buzzing sound comes out. Oh the only thing that lights up in the dash is the oil light. Even when I brake the brake lights do not turn on but the oil light inside the dash does. Did I short circuit the car? Or did I mount the radiator on a wire, I checked but everything seemed to be ok.
  • highlinehighline Posts: 2
    I bought my 95 Plymouth Neon Highline almost a year ago. We bought it as is, for about $1600. It's my first car. Anyways, since then, we've had to replace the rear main seal, a tie rod, and recently, a timing belt. The timing belt incident happened on the highway, and as you may know, when a timing belt snaps in a Neon, it causes expensive engine damage. The final cost of fixing it was $1542.23. Earlier today, I noticed my air conditioning didn't come on when I turned it on, so I turned it back off, and turned it on again, and it came on. I had been very busy today going numerous places, and I kept it on a lower level of air just in case. Well, as I was leaving a friends house, I noticed that the check engine light came on for no apparent reason. I know it can't be the timing belt--at least it better not be! The car seems to be doing fine other than the air conditioning issue earlier. Any guess of what it could be now? :(
  • An easy and no charge way to figure your problem out is to get it to an Autozone and have them diagnose your "Check Engine" light. If you have an owners manual just put your key in the ignition and turn it 5 times without turning it over after the fifth time leave it in the "on" position and it will flash a series for you. Count the flashes after the first time and then count the second set of flashes and that number will be your error code to look up. It's pretty cool that the car can tell you what is wrong with it. Hope that helped you out. :)
  • highlinehighline Posts: 2
    Well, I took it to Auto Zone yesterday and the PCM kept saying basically that it couldn't detect the codes. They told me once before that they may not be able to detect a code because my car was a late 95' model and the computers weren't made to check codes on this model. So, I took it somewhere else, and I am awaiting a phone call. Thank you for your help!
  • veonveon Posts: 1
    Hi ,

    My neon lost first and reverse its realy hard to shift it The times I had to drive it all the gear positions felt like 2cnd gear there was no sound (my radios broke so I get to listen to ll the cars lil squeaks and pops)
    I smelt something like Burning electronics but closer to Burning rubber
    I had just pulled into my home parking lot everything was fine very little shifting from the from of the complex to the spot I made to back into my spot and reverse was gone so I tried pulling up a bit and discovered that first gear was gone
    any suggestions would help I've been told that I should pull up the center console and check the shift linkage But I'm having trouble doin that too
  • jwimmjwimm Posts: 1
    I took my Neon in to have the timing belt replaced and the guy at the shop told me the they were unable to remove the main pulley, thus they were unable to replace the belt. I'm certainly not an expert on cars, but what he told me was that they have a special tool to take the pulley out, and that they tried 1000 pounds of pressure and the pulley wouldn't budge...that it was essentially frozen in place. He said that the pulley is working properly . He said that usually they come out relatively easily and he had never seen this happen before. Is there something he is missing, like a locking pin or something else that would be keeping it in place? Is this known issue or problem that anyone has heard of before?
    The car has 101,000 miles on it, and this is the first time trying to replace the timing belt. I'm looking for things to suggest that he look at or try. Thanks for any input.
  • joeisgodjoeisgod Posts: 1
    Fuel pump it seems, check your Relays under the hood, i had same problem and jiggled them and it worked
  • My starter is not engaging but I don't know where exactly it is located in the engine. I was hopping someone could give me some direction.
  • I forgot to add: how many and what size bolts are there involoved with the starter?
  • I just bought a 2001 Plymouth Neon with 75000 miles on it. It ran fine for about a day, and then this humming noise started happening. At first it wasn't very often, but then it increased in frequency and the A/C started blowing warmer air. The noise is a low pitched humming/squealing type of noise. I thought it might be a belt, since I just got this and it probably hadn't been changed, so I checked the belt that runs the compressor and the power steering, and the mark on the tensioner showed that it needed replacing because it had become looser. So I replaced that belt and the alternator belt because they are easier to get to, and I thought that would fix the problem. However, the sound is still there today and the A/C is doing the same thing of kicking in and out with cold air. When I hear the noise, I can feel the car vibrate slightly and sort of pull a little bit. I was just wondering if anyone had had a problem like this before or if anyone knows what might be the problem. Today I looked at the tensioner again, and I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may have stretched the belt out a bit. Also, when I turn the A/C off it runs perfectly fine and doesn't make any noise.

    Thanks for your help!
  • Sounds like your AC needs recharging. Easy fix at your local Autozone. They sell the complete kit to do it yourself. Mine made a similar noise and my AC blew completely hot air and after I recharged it the air was ice cold in the hottest of days. No more noise. I believe the noise is the recharge system trying to suck the remaining freon that's in it and it is struggling to do so. :D
  • justus3justus3 Posts: 21
    I bought a Neon brand new in Feb.' 03 and just love it to death. It's my baby. But I have noticed that the factory stereo w/cd cuts out once in awhile. There have been a number of times when if the stereo is on and the car door (driver's) gets opened it will cut out then too. A couple of times when I got in the car and started it, the chime will ring a few extra times and the stereo quits working. There is still power to it but no sound coming from the speakers. I have to shut the car off and restart it, then the stereo has sound again. The only add on I have made is having a subwoofer installed, but I think it was already cutting out occasionally when the car door was opened before the sub was even installed. I just thought it was a fluke before but now it is getting worse and my b2b warranty just expired, of course. I suppose it could be a whole lot worse, but even this small thing is of concern. I don't want something real major to get shorted out. Has anyone else had a problem like this, and if so what can be done to fix it, short of spending a king's ransom to have all the wiring checked? :confuse:
  • justus3justus3 Posts: 21
    I don't know too much about cars but I heard those are alway the first gears to go when your transmission goes caput. Good luck with it.
  • I had the same intermittent speedometer and instrument problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent fuel gauge with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent speedometer & fuel gauge problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent speedometer problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
  • I had the same intermittent instrument problem with my 1996 Plymouth Neon, and fixed it by:
    1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
    2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
    3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
    4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.

    The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
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