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Dodge/Plymouth Neon



  • had this problem on my 2000 lx neon
    had the oil changed and it drives like new
    seems the valves were not getting enough lubrication
  • I bought a 1995 Neon earlier this year and it has recently developed the same problem you described. I'm fairly certain it is due to a worn ignition switch (not ignition lock) but I need to research the problem a bit more. The car still starts (sometimes after 3 or 4 tries) so I'm not in any real hurry. I'll keep you informed what I found out, and maybe you'll post anything you find out.
  • I had this EXACT same problem recently, and for me it was the fuel pump. Sometimes it would be running fine, but when it did act up, I lost all power when pressing on the gas. Had the fuel pump replaced, and havent had any problems like that since. Best bet is to get a fuel pressure test, and check the pressure on it when the engine bogs down. Good luck!
  • Ok, so heres the situation. I have a 95 Dodge Neon, and it has been making a whiny/screeching sound for awhile now. Someone told me it was the a/c compressor belt most likely, which is bad if it goes. However, tonight on my way home, I was leaving the parking lot and I lost power steering and the car started smoking really bad. I shut it off and looked under the hood. The smoke was coming from the front passenger side looked to be right by the radiator, but couldnt REALLY track it. After I restarted the car, I still had no power steering, but it stopped smoking. Also, the annoying noise went away. (Yeah!) So my question is, would the a/c belt cause this if it broke, or is it more likely a power steering belt? Also, approximatly how much would it be to replace? Thanks for your help in advance! :)

  • I have a 99' Neon and after my mechanic told me that my power steering belt was dry and cracking, I had him replace both belts and it cost me $180 dollars to fix it. I wouldn't recommend driving it because your car will overheat because the waterpump is not working. Get your belts replaced and your car will run better. The whiny/screeching noise as you described was because the belts were dry as a bone and sometimes belt lube will do the job but only as a temporary measure. Usually belts will start to screech after it has rained out and they will stop. If they don't stop and belt lube is needed then it's time to get to your mechanic. Hope this helps you out. :)
  • eeejeeej Posts: 3
    Alrighty, Steve! And if I stumble on some vital info in the meantime, I'll let you know too. Thanks! :)
  • OK, here's what I found out. The switch is sold at AutoZone for $31.99. See here:igniton switch.

    I went and purchased the switch (it was in stock). Replacement is simple enough that even a bumbling amateur can do it BUT... There's a catch. To remove the old switch you need a #10 Torx bit from your screwdriver set, which I assume everyone has, BUT... Some clown engineer decided to make the screw head not an ordinary one but a #10 Torx tamper-resistant screw head. That means you have to find a special set of bits.

    I found what I needed on eBay for $5.88 incl. shipping and ordered it. It's on its way. In the meantime my car is still drivable so I can be patient. Good luck to you.
  • How do I replace the filler tube on my 95 Dodge Neon?.
  • If u happen 2 figure out what the problem is please respond 2 and let me no. I have the exact same problem. I replaced the entire fuel/sending unit assembly along with a new filter and fuel relay. And it still acts up.
    Thanks lilb
  • I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon LX that sounds like a VW bug when I accelerate. I am fairly certain this is probably an exhaust leak however I can't see anything...any suggestions where I should look? And do you think my car will pass smog if I do not fix it?
  • yeah i had a plymoth van in my shop doing the same thing and the guy changed both belts but it still made the noise. What your gunna hve to do is uhhh get a new a/c pump but before you change it make sure you drain your lines through the valves. hope that helps but does anyone know where to get suicide doors for a 1995 dodge neon, im kinda working on something.
  • mark78mark78 Posts: 1
    Recently did a top end job on this 95 Neon SOHC 2 liter. Had it about 95% of the way back together and had to drive it around to the new driveway where I moved to less than 100 yards fomr the old place. The engine was still minus both belts, and the air cleaner and some vacuum lines but was running ok in the driveway. When I went to drive it around to the new driveway I made a right turn and suddenly the engine died on me... was able to coast to the new parking spot. Just can't figure out what made this engine die this way, no loose connectors anywhere or obvious problems, I even double checked the timming belt and its dead on the marks. After looking over the wiring diagram I noticed there is a power steering pressure sensor and that when I made that right hand turn into the new drive the steering hgear box peobably lost pressure and shut down the engine..... today I shorted that switch out but it still won't start! I'm about to give up on this one. It was running just fine till I brought it around to the new place. When you crank the engine over it sounds uneven and on inspecting the plugs only the #4 cylinder seems to be getting anything from the injectors. There is also a light green wire with I believe an orange or red stripe, at the end of that wire there is a white nylon push on connector. This is right above the cam position sensor and I can't find an attaching point for it. I even took photos of this engine before I tore it down... you can see that wire but not its attaching point. The air cleaner is still off too, but no place there for this wire. I must live over an Indian Burial ground!

  • eeejeeej Posts: 3
    Thanks! I will go that route too!!!!!
  • My stepdaughter has a 1995 Dodge neon sport with 168000 miles. The other day her engine started make noise and stranded her on the way to school. Her dad had it towed to the wrecking yard where he works. He did some minor investigating and found it was a possible blown head gasket. If the engine needs replaced he can get a used one through he place of business. He said the only problem was the 1995 was a model where only a 1995 engine would fit and when they find one it would be approx $1750. Does anyone know if there are other options short of rebuilding? I do not have access to the car now but the vin# is 1B3ES67CXSD580633.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to also ask in the discussion at this link: Got a Quick, Technical Question? - good luck.
  • Hi, we just bought this car for my step-daughter, and everything DID work. NOBODY drove the car, but now that it has been raining here ( pennsylvania ) for a while, the radio doesnt work, and the wipers wont work EXCEPT when you pull the handle down to use the fluid - then they do work :/

    I thought it would be a fuse problem, but my fatehr-in-law has been looking at it and says it is not.

    Would anyone have ANY idea what is going on that would cause these things to act the way they are?


    Oh - is there a way to make this forum look like a regular forum setup? I see posts and responses all thrown together, and it gets confusing :)
  • ok - the dome light doesnt work either....ARGH

    this is what we get for not having money to buy an expensive car for her I guess...*sigh*

  • ok - wipers work, and probably always did - father in law turned the knob for the delay rather than turning the wipers actually on :confuse:

    Dome light - maybe never worked - kid doesnt have a clue if it ever came on or not.

    radio - still dead, not a fuse, worked when she parked it, now it doesnt. REALLY dont want to rip the dash apart for these crappy radio installations they do at the factory, but if I have to - argh...

    Well since i narrowed it down to basically the radio just dying, anyone have any ideas now? I mena NOTHING works on it - time or anything..totally black and dead.

  • Easy removal of the radio if it's a stock chrysler radio. The cover that's over it just pops off. Use a flat head screwdriver and pry it off then there are two screws to remove and you can easily pull the radio out. Take the antenna wire off and also remove the grey plug as well as the black plug and you can junk the radio. If this is the original stock radio than you are lucky it lasted 10 years. If it's an aftermarket then reply back and we'll discuss it further as to the removal. My sister's radio died in her 97 Neon and I went and bought a stock cassette player off of eBay for $30 dollars and I installed the stock radio from my 99 Neon into her 97. I removed hers, installed my old one and was done in 15 minutes flat.
    Like I said, stock is easy, aftermarket is a little more complicated.

  • Well heck, that does sound easy. I was expecting to have to pop the side panels off next to the radio, then get up behind it and remove a screw ( my plymouth laser had it in that way - argh )...I might just pop that baby out and see if the radio just died all of a sudden...


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