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Dodge Caravan/Chrysler Voyager

16970717274

Comments

  • Thanks,I will look at the latter items first.
    Peace & Wellness~
  • docbunnerdocbunner Posts: 11
    When I come to a stop my idle drops down to about 500 RPMs while in drive. then I get check engine light on. In checking the code it reads P420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). This light does not come on if I put it in Neutral when I come to a stop. In fact, the RPMs, remain at about 750. Can you please help me decide what is going on
  • Technical Description
    Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

    What does that mean?
    The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream O2 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the Check Engine Light if the readings of the two sensors are similar. This is indicative of (among other things) a converter that is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.

    Symptoms
    You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.

    Causes
    A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

    Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for
    An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
    The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly
    Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe
    Retarded spark timing
    The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings

    Possible Solutions

    Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 code include:

    Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required.
    Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady).
    Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2), replace if necessary
    Replace the catalytic converter
    One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.
  • car_kencar_ken Posts: 1
    I had a very similar problem with my '96 Dodge Caravan 3.3 liter. About 8 miles on the highway at 65 mph and it would lose power, if I waited an hour the problem was gone. I found that if I drove under 55 mph I would get no failure at least for the short distance I was traveling to work. MIL codes were 11, 22, 7,27,43 (misfire),61,55...so there were some strange codes but the misfire stood out. I took it to two different mechanics...one said he wasn't sure, the other replaced the coil which did no fix the problem. Per previous comments this thread I replaced the crank position sensor, but that did not correct problem. I noticed in the repair manual that there is a also camshaft position sensor so I replaced that since function appeared similar to crank sensor. That fixed the problem. Fyi and thanks for all input.
  • kboingjrkboingjr Posts: 1
    My 1996 Dodge Caravan can not be inspected because the "on-board computer
    is not compatable with the state's inspection computers". When you run the
    reguired tests, the process quits and machine reads: TEST ABORTED. Do I need
    a whole, new, more modern on-board computer or is this a fuse/fuse box fix that I should for?
  • ozvoyagerozvoyager Posts: 1
    hi...I have an 04 Voyager..can anyone tell me if there is any difference in the suspension between this model and the previous model...I have access to aftermarket sway bars from the previous model and would like to fit them to my 04...thanks
  • ongomoongomo Posts: 1
    My 2007 3.3 ltr Grand Caravan with 42,000KM, has developed a whine that is not really loud but gets louder when hot & is quite noticeable when you turn on the A/C. The pitch of the whine changes as you rev up the engine. If on a steep hill (down) & put it in low gear to ease down slowly you can hear it quite loud. When I first complained, Dealer replaced the Alternator & idle saying the bearings were not good. Next they changed the A/C pump when I pointed out that it got louder when that clicked on and off. No change after either "fix". They say it really isn't that loud and is a normal thing. They contacted Chrysler and were unable to find any help there - it really isn't a problem (unless you are the one driving it!)... Today they took it in and to make me happy they took the trans. pan off, checked the oil & all components & found it was all good. No problems. No fix. Noise still there. Suggestions?
  • jtap0916jtap0916 Posts: 3
    My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan just failed smog due to the EVAP leaks. Can you tell us what needs to replace? Is it a vacuum hose or is it a major fix.

    Thanks for your time.
  • I have a 2001 grand caravan and my interior sliding door buttons do not work. My keypad button does open the door. any ideas.

    thanks
  • check your console on the roof. You have an on and off switch that is for turning the controls off to the sliding door as a child proof. I have myself turned this off and forgot I did so. When I took it in to get it checked out the service guy told me to chec k this switch. Hope this helps.
  • Have the above code on my 2001 Dodge Grande Caravan. Looking it up it says: leak detection pump switch or mechanical fault. What is this? Where is this pump located? Thanks for any help!
  • fordford Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Dodge Caravan which had a code 455 and 442. The following is a description of this van. The problem was caused by a 12 inch hose located under the van on the drivers side close to and in front of the liquid/vapor separator canisters. The 5/8 inch ID hose was connected between the front (engine side) of the LDP vent valve and the leak detection pump. Oil from the engine had leaked onto the end of hose connected to the pump. The plastic clamp was broken and the hose had swollen until it was very loose. Replacing the hose and clamps fixed the problem. The LDP vent valve is connected to the largest liquid/vapor canister by a 2 inch long hose. You may need to buy the hose from the Chrysler since it is a shaped hose. Any broken or missing clamps should be replaced with the band type sold by auto parts stores. Any other hose which is split should be replaced. I found one small L shaped hose with different IDs on each end connected to the small liquid/vapor canister which had a small split which I replaced with a hose I got from Chrysler for $5.
  • It is raining in my car! I cleaned out the drainage tubes which were totally plugged and thought that would solve the problem. (I live in Portland where it rains constantly). The passenger side drain tube is cracked at the bottom but before I replace that I'd be thrilled to hear some advice. I finally had a dry 3 days and the car seemed fine, so I ran a hose on the windshield, the passenger door, basically all over the front end of the car. Nothing. As soon as it started to rain again, there's now a slow stream of water coming out from underneath the glove box. It smells like water, has no color. It did disappear when I ran the heat (which I haven't done in months), but then slowly trickled again. This can't be normal?! I really want to sell my car but want to identify and fix the problem so I don't pass it off to a buyer (but obviously don't want to break my bank in doing so). Please help!!!
  • I recently fixed up this van for my handicapped friend. (Auto,since only 1 leg.) While driving the other day, it suddenly lost power to the accelerator. Still running though, for about a mile, and then suddenly had accelerator again. Your help to correct this is appreciated. Need to keep my friend in wheels.
  • Car-part.com will search all the U.S salvage yards and give you a # and price!! Most will ship you the part you need
  • Had the same problem took forever to find where the whinning was coming from. Look under the middle of the car while running and listen for a whine while someone else eccelrates it. There is a plastic 3 ball looking thing that has a vacumm in it that helps with pressure. Mine was shrunken from heat and therefore leaked its called a Vac Harness and it was 8.00 from the dealer. part # was 4431325 hope this helps good luck.
  • I bought a 1996 grand voyager three years ago........ just yesterday I tried to detach the spare tire from under the car and I can't figure out how to do it, can't find in the manual how take it down, can somebody tell me how? It seems nobody has ever taken that tire off.
  • You have to lift the tailgate and make sure nothing is in the back. You should have a part of the rug that has a plastic round piece in it (driver's side of the compartment.) Lift it up and you should see a white plastic lug that you jack wrench shoud work on. turn it counter clockwise to lower the spare tire all the way down. Do you know where your jack is kept for you van?
  • I'm having the same problem, did you ever fix yours and if so, what did you do?
  • I cleaned the mass air flow as instructed to do by the source I gave. It helped some but still has some problem but not as bad as before.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    The problem that I'm having with this thread is that, as far as I know, no 3.3 or 3.8 liter engine produced by Chrysler for use in their minivans has ever had a MAF sensor. Instead, these engines use a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, a sensor that shouldn't be messed with. If someone attempted to clean a MAF sensor on one of these vehicles, there is a good chance that they will irreparably damage the MAP sensor.
  • I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 L and I think the oil pump is going out. Can anyone tell me if that procedure can be done just by removing the oil pan or will the motor have to be removed? Thanks.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    What makes you think the oil pump is failing? I ask because that would be a VERY unusual failure for your eninge.
  • When I start the motor for the first time in the day, the oil light will come on and stay on. I don't know exactly how long it will stay on because I've only let it run at the most 2 minutes before shutting it off. The engine sounds good during that time. So, my routine is, start the car, shut it off, start it right back up. The light goes off normally after the 2nd start. This only happens once per day. I change the oil & filter on a regular schedule and I maintain the correct level. I changed the oil 2 days ago and for the first time when I started the van to check for leaks, I heard a noise that is similar to valve train ticking with low oil. That only lasted about 3-4 seconds. My guess it is the oil pump even though the ticking hasn't returned.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    A few points:

    1) While the oil pumps have proven to be extremely reliable on these engines (as have the engines themselves), the oil pressure sending unit shows up as an occasional problem area. The standard operating procedure for debugging this is to A) remove the oil pressure sender and screw in a physical gauge, and B) assuming the gauge shows the oil pressure to be in the normal operating range, replace the sender.

    2) A little lifter noise following an oil change is normal for ALL cars and ALL engines, especially so if you don't "prime" the new filter by prefilling it with oil. These engines are also picky about the quality of the "Anti-Drainback Valve" built into the filter, and following a cold-start on some engines using a filter with a less effective ADV will cause the same valve train noise you heard following your oil change. FWIW, I've found that the Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter keeps my engines very quiet following a cold-start, that said, the FL-1A is a larger capacity filter and will require you to add say 5.25 quarts of oil following an oil change to bring the oil level up to the MAX line on the dipstick.

    Long story short, have your engine tested to confirm that the oil pressure is acceptable, and if your engine is like 99% of the other ones out there with an oil pressure light issue, simply replace the sending unit.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • I had this problem too. Thanks for your solution
  • If you would check out Auto Advantage site,(http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/knowhow.asp) they have tutorial videos that talk about cleaning this MAP/MAF sensors and show where they are located. I have a MAP on my 2003 van and a MAF on my 1993 Plymouth Acclaim. I cleaned them both as instructed to do. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/How-to-clean-your-MAF_80603.htm
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Back to my point, no 3.3 or 3.8 liter engine has ever been manufactured with a MAF sensor. As for cleaning a MAP sensor, not worth the effort. Why? Ninty-nine times out of one-hundred, when a MAP sensor has a problem, no amount of cleaning will even remotely help, the sensor needs to be replaced. If the sensor isn't having a problem, then cleaning it will not improve engine performance in any way, shape or form.
  • My 2000 Chrysler Voyager just stops as I am driving. It will continue to stop 10 to 15 times, and then it can be perfect for the next few hours. We changed the crank sensor but it still doing it.

    Hot / cold weather, full or empty tank it doesnt matter.

    Any ideas????
  • How about the fuel filter? Mine is a 1999, so I am not sure that the 2000's have a filter. Mine is under the car and costs about $35 from Advance. There are different filters for the Grand and short wheelbase models. Intermittent problems are very difficult to diagnose.

    Chris
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