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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • s852s852 Posts: 1,051
    The rear tail lights now have white backup lights across the top.
    The grille and front bumper is changed and kind of looks like an "old style" Infiniti I30.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    mach audio pretty much stinks, not much better than a kraco.
  • danielj6danielj6 Posts: 285
    After reading and watching IIHS on SUVS' bumpers, I thought back to around May 2000 when a new Honda Accord hit me in the back at around 25 to 30 mph. The only damage was, as I recall, cosmetic, and the estimate for the repair was $375. The rear bumper absorbed the hit and didn't allow damage to the body of my station wagon.

    As a side comment the IIHS confirms what I've been saying for a long time: SUVS' ruggedness and strength are at best questionable and their safety doubtful. For quite a bit less money I have just as much cargo space in my S.W.

    I wish the rest of my car were built as solidly mechanically as the bumper. I wouldn't be considering more reliable brands but would be thinking what color to get my next Sable.
  • I don't quite get why people bash on the poor little Vulcan. Yes, it could offer better gas mileage, but as previously discussed, it is extremely reliable. I'm aware that it only puts out 155hp, but more importantly (and often overlooked), it puts out 185lb/ft of torque. That makes for pretty solid acceleration for a "base" engine compared to several of the competitors. Yeah, it's no Duratec, and it's no 3.8L pushrod Monte Carlo, but it's a fine little engine.
  • Well, the little Vulcans are reliable and run long. I've seen early 90's Tauri Vulcans with 150K miles on them for sale on Ebay or at little used car dealers. The 3.8 engines died off first.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    just went over 100,000. It cracked the barrier on a round trip from Rhode Island to Albany, NY. On the way back my service engine soon light came on. The light was gone after approximately another 250 miles of driving (two days later). I noticed that the tach was about 150 to 200 rpms higher than normal during many parts of this trip. I've gotten a torque converter code a few times previous to this service engine soon warning. I'll get it checked out when I take the car in for it's next service. Don't know when that'll be; and it has been over two weeks and the car is fine.
    I agree with the previous two post, this engine is more than adequate for daily driving. I plan on giving mine to my daughter sometime next year. It'll be her first car. The car is safe and solid so it'll be a good set of wheels for a new driver.
  • shank6shank6 Posts: 64
    Hi guys :

    Happy holidays to all. Any thoughts on a rear defroster that just quit Tuesday ?. I replaced the relay but no luck. Dealer says it may be a module ?. Any help would br appreciated.

  • My '01 Sable with the 3.8L had 175K on the clock when we traded it in on a Lincoln LS. I didn't have to do anything other than regular maintenance, including the head gasket. It was fine. The water pump went at ~130K, and the a/c clutch field at ~ 110K. I got excellent service from that car. We got $1500 on the trade-in, which I thought was very fair.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    You could not have the 3.8L in your '01 Sable. It was discontinued in Taurus/Sable when the Duractec 3.0 was introduced in 1996, so you either had the Duratec DOHC 3.0 or the Vulcan OHV 3.0.
  • sapansapan Posts: 6
    Hi to everyone on the board. Recently, a dealer ask me to look at a fully loaded 2003 taurus sel with 15k miles in their lot. the price is $15k. I have no idea what's decent price for the car. Currently I own a 12 years old accord, really want to trade it in for a roomy, solid, and comfortable car. I am going to test drive the car tommorrow. any comment is appreciated.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Sounds like a pretty reasonable price. Check Edmunds Used Car Appraiser section and you may be able to get a better idea.

    I would offer them maybe $1K less than that, see if they bite. If not, maybe you can get them to throw an extended warranty into the deal. I believe Ford and some individual dealers have some sort of "certified used car" program for lower mileage and newer cars where they throw in an extended drive train warranty-you may want to check that out.

    I think you will be happy with the car. In my opinion Taurus/Sables are one of the more underrated cars available, making them a good bargain.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    sounds high to me. Is it loaded with leather and Duratec? Taurus has a high depreciation rate first couple of years. Around here I've seen 04s with leather and sunroof for $16,800.

    The market may be different in your part of the country.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    SEL's only come with the Duratec.

    I just plugged into Edmunds used car appraiser and for my zip code (Milwaukee, WI area) and with every available option checked and checking the best condition and 15000 miles, the trade in price was $12455, the private party sale price was $13623, and the dealer price was $15569. So I think trying to get the dealer down to $14,000 is a reasonable start, assuming this SEL is actually loaded up with every option and is in excellent condition, as it should be with only 15K miles, unless the previous owner was a real pig and the dealer was actually willing to stock a car in bad condition. Usually new car dealers auction off the real loser used cars, so you won't find one that looks to doggish on their lots.
  • sapansapan Posts: 6
    I really appreciate your kind responses. Actually, if I can get 14K, and the dealer is going to offer a little more for my trade-in, I will go for it. my 91 accord ex runs great, has some rust, with 145k miles on it. the dealer only offered $400. That really sucks. I think my car is at least in fair condition. it should be something close to $800-1000. Badgefan, do you think it is neccessary to take the car to a garage for comprehensive inspection before I buy the car?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    If you are buying it from a Ford dealer, probably not. The car still has a bumper to bumper warranty until it is 3 years old or 36K miles, whichever comes first, and this warranty is transferable to you, so I don't think you have too much risk. Some states also require the dealer to provide upon request who the previous owner was, and you may be able to contact them also to discover any issues. There also CARFAX service available for a fee (see the link on the left side of your Edmunds page) that can give you vehicle history.

    If buying from a used car only dealer or private party, you may want to get a second opinion, especially if the car's past history is questionable, such as a rental car, lease or repossession, where the last driver could have abused it.

    You could probably sell your old car outright yourself for much better than $400, if you want to put up with the hassle.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    in some instances, donating a vehicle will result in a tax write off that is greater than the trade in.

    If you plan on keeping this car a long time, consider an extended warranty.

    I would also offer that if you don't buy cars often, take a look at maybe buying new. It is more money right now, but you will gain back the best mileage the car has to offer, when new.

    The Taurus is a depreciator, but still its a good enough deal when new that you don't blow a lot of money vs. used.
  • After about 30,000 miles the OEM Firestone Affinity tires on my 2000 Sable developed unbalance, flat spots, noisy, poor ride, etc. Replaced them with Yokohama Avid Touring tires. Tremendous improvement overall. Practically no road noise, cruising at up to 75-80 MPH, although I usually set the cruise control just under the posted speed limits on the Interstates.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I have been riding on them for almost 22k miles. They are very quite, they resist wear. Couple cons are, they are prone to ozone cracks. Mine developed cracks on side walls due to wheather condition. They are not the size that I should be alarmed but they are there.
    Don't forget to check air pressure monthly. They have tendecy to leak down to 25-26 psi. I always set them to 31. 32 gives very harsh ride.
    Tread wear is excellent. I still have %80 of it.
    Overall, they are very good tires.
    Lately, I discovered Kumhos, my wife is riding on them (Neon) for almost a month. They are cheaper ($37 piece)then Yoko and more resist to wet wheather. Of course, they are from Tire rack.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    ok, I need to know HOW to disable the auto locking doors!

    I am FED UP with having to UNLOCK my freakin doors when I get out of the car and try to open another one of the doors. I am TIRED of having to use the FOB just to get into the back seat or passenger door, or have to unlock the doors when I leave the car.


    HELP! what do I do!
  • wep68wep68 Posts: 18
    desribes how to disable the auto locking doors.

    I like the feature, as I never remember to lock the doors when driving, and I guess it adds some margin of safety to have them locked. I guess its like oatmeal -- locked doors is just the right thing to do
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