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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I think you might be better off to do some math first. I assume you get between 19 and 20 mpg in your Taurus. Let's say you spend 15,000.00 on a new car. I don't know where you live so I will use tax rate where I live.

    $15,000 sell price
    1,162.50 tax
    -7.500.00 for trade (does not include doc fee or Lic.)
    8,662.50 CASH OUT OF POCKET

    Gas at $2.20 a Gal at 20mpg at 15,000 (750 gallons used) miles per year=$1,650.00 for gas/yr

    30mpg at 15,000 (500 gallons used@$2.20 Gal) miles per year = $1,100 for gas/yr
    difference in price of gas used=$550.00

    It would take a long time at current gas prices to recoup your cash outlay for a new car.
    IS MY MATH CORRECT? :confuse:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Here's something I've been saying for years - when I hear people justify their new car purchase by "saving gas"..... You're dead right - it will never pencil.
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    Aw comeon, you guys. The poor person came up with a pretty durned reasonable sounding excuse to get into some new wheels (the American way, afterall!) and here you are messing up the situation with facts! :confuse: And on a car forum too!?! :surprise: You should be ashamed of yourselves... ;)
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "Aw comeon, you guys. The poor person came up with a pretty durned reasonable sounding excuse to get into some new wheels (the American way, afterall!) and here you are messing up the situation with facts! And on a car forum too!?! You should be ashamed of yourselves..."

    Hey, I can't talk. I just traded in an '02 Explorer on a '05 4Runner Toyota! :P
  • observer22observer22 Posts: 41
    Used autobarn dot com to order Brembo cross drilled rotors for my 2000 Taurus. Brembos dramatically improved braking performance immediately. Gives me the superb braking I enjoyed with a much smaller car. VERY highly recommended.
  • bob75bob75 Posts: 6
    I recently got this Taurus and find that the driver side (left) head lamp is Waaay Off. I tried the Owner's manual way of doing it, but it won't budge...Turn the 4mm bolt clockwise is supposed to aim the lamp downward and counterclockwise for upward, but no matter which way I turn, the thing will not change. Does anyone know of this problem, and how do you take out the headlamp assembly to check to see that the mechanism is working right???? Don't wish to buy an overpriced manual on the car as I'm thinking of selling it, but want to make sure it's all OK before selling. Thank you all.......Bob
  • kramer4kramer4 Posts: 1
    This car is making a loose clanking noise when i put on the breaks or go over a bump in the road. is this common? what is the cause? and how expensive is this to fix?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    With a Taurus that age, there could be a number of front suspension problems due to wear and tear.

    The likely most common with Tauri of that era in general are worn tie rod ends or worn sway bar links, both of which are pretty inexpensive, however no one is going to be able to diagnose this kind of problem via Edmunds. Take it in and get a professional inspection and estimate.
  • oneeyeoneeye Posts: 2
    Does anyone have the torque specs for the front wheel bearing nut on a 2002 Mercury Sable? thanks Dave
  • knelmsknelms Posts: 1
    hoping you might be able to assist.
    I have a 2001 Ford Taurus and the starter appears to have gone bad.
    I need to pull it but would like to have some idea where to locat it and how difficult it is to get too before I venture under the car.
    Tha last time I had to pull a starter I was taking it off of an 85 Mercury Grand Marquis, Easy to get too and not too difficult to remove and replace. I highly doubt that will be the case with this car.

    Any pointers you could toss this direction would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you!!
  • activemanactiveman Posts: 2
    I am a new driver, just bought this car two weeks ago. Now I was told the coolant level is low. So which coolant should I choose? Shall I DIY or take it to auto care shops or the dealer? Which is the best( easiest + cheapest) way?


  • juswheelsjuswheels Posts: 42
    Within the past month, I traded in the twin to your Taurus but with 76,000 miles on it. Everything in super shape and all maintencace records since new. That said, I agree with the thoughts that you shouldn't trade to "save gas". You won't recover your investiment on just gas savings for many, many years. For myself, I decided to trade because the Taurus was just starting to "nickle & dime" me with repairs. Nothing big but something every month. To be honest, I was also tired of looking at it and I have little doubt, that's the number one reason I decided to trade. I didn't purchase a 2005 Taurus, although I gave them a look. It only took about 1 minute to notice that inside & out the 2005 was a virtual twin to my 2001. Best wishes on your new vehicle choice. :)
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    What did you buy, if I may ask....? I recently acquired an 05 Taurus by accident - and I'm surprised at how decent it is. I had no desire to own one since 1987.
  • My A/C is will blow cold air and then hot after a while, and then back to cold. It seems to do it no matter which fan speed I choose. Am I correct in that if it was low on Freon, it would not fluctuate back and forth? When it does blow cold air, it is really cold, so it leads me to think it is something else. :confuse: :confuse:


    Car history:
    Bought in Feb 03
    ex fleet car from Michigan
    16k miles, already have had a rear coil spring break and puncture a tire, egr sensor component replaced (Ford extended warranty for this part), power seat motor replaced, and battery died while driving down the road (no kidding!) I hope that this gets better soon, otherwise I feel like I am driving a :lemon:
  • masonmimasonmi Posts: 148
    Does anyone know if there is a VIN history report available other than Carfax and Autocheck?
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58

    I was only really wondering if I could sell the car for that much. I think I'll just keep it because I LOVE the car and I did get a great deal on it. Besides that, I don't want to deal with getting another car loan anyway. The payment on this car is $182.96 a month. I bought the car 1/24/05 with 57,000 miles and my payoff is only $6,950 as of today. My loan is 4 years and have 3.5 left to go (assuming I make minimum). I may start paying $200.00 a month and that will shave off about 9 months of payments.

    The only thing on this car that don't work is the front passenger seat belt is locked up and only pulls out so far. I don't know if someone yanked it too hard or what, but I just don't feel like fixing it (unless I sell it). I'll just haul people in the backseat.

    Not to mention, I use this car daily for PIZZA DELIVERY on backroads,rough terrain, and curves (Southeastern Ohio area). This car has proven to handle well in these conditions and the suspension seems very tough. At idle, this car is SILENT and everything mechanically is fine. I have done routine maintenance (especially the flushes) to keep this baby at its top.

    I feel I can easily get this thing to 150,000 with no drama. If I can make it there, I will continue to buy Ford.

    Thanks for any input!
    - Alex
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You are most likely correct. I think you have a defective Expansion valve that is hanging up. It will cause exactly the syndrome you have.
  • Thanks for your reply I will certainly look in to it and report back... Thanks again
  • It ended up being a bad clutch relay switch on the compressor! Thanks for your input. :shades:
  • kathy5kathy5 Posts: 2
    Where is this Expansion value located? Would you have to take the dash out totally to get to it? If you take the dash out to get to the expansion value, wouldn't you have to empty the freeon out first right? Is this something a reasonable car knowledgeable person would be able to fix?
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