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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • I recently bought a 2002 Sable LS of almost this exact description, except also having ABS brakes, Mach Audio, and chrome wheels. The price was $8,500. I don't consider it a particularly great price, but I do think the $10,900 price is absurdly high. For that money
    I had the option of buying a Lincoln Town Car Signature.
  • 99119911 Posts: 1
    my car will start no problem if it is plugged in but once it get to say -15 or o faraheit it seems to roll over ok but then shakes it will start sometimes at this temperature but appears to almost be flooding i did a tune up new wires cap pluggs buyt it made no difference about a year ago canadian tire told me my head gasket was going so they put an engine gasket sealer in it it seems ok i have plenty of power in the engine and pleny of heat in the car could this be part of my problem.

    here are a few things people have told me

    1 cold cranking amps in battery battery test in green ok but on the line or 12 seems to roll over quickly enough

    2 fuel pump when i turn key i hear fuel pump working and never have problems unless its cold weather

    3 cold start sensor could it be this

    i hope by the process of elimennation to find out what the problem is

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to also have a look at our "No Start" Problems discussion. You may find some ideas already posted and you can ask there as well. Good luck with it.
  • I note on the Taurus station wagon, they have disc brakes front and rear, as opposed to rear drums on the sedan. Has anyone driven both? If so, are the station wagon's brakes better? Does the pedal have better 'feel?'
    I find on my 2000 SES, the brakes are my main criticism. there seems to be the 'magic inch' where nothing happens when you first depress the pedal. I've had all the usual checks, such as fluid flush etc.
    Any thoughts on this?
    I still feel this is an underrated car. Many people have travelled in mine and been surprised how good it is. There is space and comfort galore and excellent handling and steering, although the ride is a little choppy I feel. Still great value though.
  • Price? I don't know. But, I have a 2000 Sable LS with 156,000 miles on the std Vulcan V6. Bought it w/ 16,000 miles. With 55,000 miles on the one you're looking at, if there are no maint records, I would change all fluids (cooling, trans, & oil). (At 55,000, trans & cooling should have been done twice already.) Maint is the key to getting max mileage out of any car, but I feel even more so on American cars.

    While there are certainly the exceptions (but how would you know which ones), I personally don't think people that trade their cars in at 40-50,000 miles do much in the way of maint (why would you spend more than you have to if you're not planning on keeping the car?). I would much rather see you buy a 1 or 2 yr old car w/ under 15 or 16,000 miles. It won't cost you any more to own, and you may have fewer problems with it by not buying somebody else's 55,000 miles of neglect/bad driving habits.

    If you've already bought it, here's my experience thus far: I bought mine w/ every intention of going 250,000 miles, and at this point, I have no doubt that it will. The only problem of any significance I've had is a starter I replaced last year. Everything else has been routine maint, including in Sept, all new struts & springs (it was my choice to have them done) and lower ball joints. (Ball joints were just starting to show signs of wear. Went ahead and replaced them as long as it was all apart for the struts & sprgs.) Had to switch from 89 oct to 90+ to control the pinging, but I do get better gas mileage, as well as better performance when I want it. Eliminating the pinging will also help me get the 250,000 miles I'm shooting for out of the engine. All fluids have been changed religiously: Oil every 4,000 (hi-way miles), Trans & cooling every year or about 30,000 miles. Got 70,000 miles on my first set of tires. Replaced them w/ the same Continentals and am going to get 100,000 easily this time (only been rotated twice). I keep the car waxed and get the engine cleaned 1x per yr. Once the warranty was up, I have not let the dealer touch my car. I have an excellent mechanic that I have complete faith in. With all that I have done, the car rides, drives, and looks like the day I bought it (despite midwest winters & no garage). There are no leaks or rattles. Engine runs smooth and uses no oil. While my maint cost per thousand miles has gone up slightly each year, depreciation has slowed down considerably now. So, I am expecting my total cost of ownership per thousand miles to be cheaper on this 2nd 100,000 than it was on the 1st. We'll see. Hope this was helpful and good luck w/ what I think is one of the most underated cars on the market.
  • If you own a 2003 Ford Taurus the odds are very good that you already have, or are just about to have your Defrost Blower Motor go out.

    We noticed a puddle of water on the passenger side floor very soon after we bought the car. It turns out that due to a design defect, water can get into the heater system and ends up on the floor. We took the car to the dealer twice (under warranty) to have this addressed. What the dealer didn’t tell us- is that the blower motor and resistor wind up sitting in a puddle of water.

    You don’t need to be an electrical engineer to figure out what happens next. This week the weather turned cold and the blower motor burned out. Back to dealer, 3rd time, charged nearly $300 to replace the blower motor. They told us sorry, not a warranty issue!

    Ford has issued at least 2 TSBs on this, and they know it is a design issue. There hasn’t been a recall so they tell you to get lost.

    If you have a 2003 Taurus, this will probably happen to you. If it already has do us all a favor and file a complaint with the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration. Link below:

    You will need your VIN # to complete the process, but aside from that it is easy.

    If enough people complain, they may make Ford issue a recall and correct this under warranty.
  • jh1977jh1977 Posts: 40
    Ford says 2006 will be the last model year of the Taurus. I once owned a Taurus. Its a shame Ford did not invest more into the Taurus to keep it competitive with the Camry and Accord. At one time years ago, The Taurus was the best selling car in the U.S., outselling the Camry and Accord. Good-Bye Taurus.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "The Taurus was the best selling car in the U.S., outselling the Camry and Accord. Good-Bye Taurus."

    Yes, but they made that drastic "jelly bean" design and the Taurus lost the number one spot and never regained it. The Fusion is a great car, the 500 was designed to be very bland, and consequently is not a run away success. Ford needs to fire it's designers and get some young blood in there!
  • First let me say you were right on about the DPFE sensor on my 2000 Taurus that wouldn't idle. Now, I have a new question, please. My automatic headlights do not come on anymore, but the parking lights work automatically. I checked the fuse and it is fine. Is there a separate relay for the headlights? Was told by mechanic that I would just probably need to replace switch, which is $85 at dealership parts. Mechanic did not check just figured that would be my fix. Any suggestions?
  • jh1977jh1977 Posts: 40
    I agree 100% Ford destroyed the Taurus with the "jelly bean" design, not updating the car with modern technology to compete with the Camry and Accord. Ford should bring in new Designers for the 500 and Montego (The successors to Taurus and Sable) so the cars can be redesigned. These cars are currently designed for the 65 plus senior citizen crowd and they remind of the 1970s Plymouth Valiant. When the new 3.5 liter engine arrives for the 500/Montego, Ford needs to redesign the 500 and Montego so they can have attractive body styles to appeal to customers in their 20s, 30s, 40s and 50s. The Camry and Accord cars have attractive body styles, why can't the 500 and Montego have the same.
  • Greetings,

    I have a 2005 Taurus with 33K, 3.0L. I have noticed that only on the first start of the day, for 1-2 minutes, there is a clunking noise each time I press the brake pedal about 1”. The RPM’s go down with the brake pedal and the car will move forward (very slightly). It does this everyday on only the first start of the day. The Ford dealer had an engineer from Ford look at it. They ended up saying that they tried other Taurus on the lot and saw the same problem. They say that no one had ever complained about this problem, and were not sure what was causing it.

    Any of you out there have a 2005 Taurus that you can test to see if you have this problem?

    Thanks, David
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "Ford needs to redesign the 500 and Montego so they can have attractive body styles to appeal to customers in their 20s, 30s, 40s and 50s. The Camry and Accord cars have attractive body styles, why can't the 500 and Montego have the same."

    JH, I agree with everything you have said. My only comment is that the 500 will probably appeal to the 45 year age group if it were designed properly. It needs a little more excitement. I think the Fusion is a step in the right direction!
  • Do somebody know where is located the power window fuse and how many amps uses? All the windows refuse to work.
    I just suspect the problem is with the power window fuse.

    Thank you for your attention.

    Ruben E.
  • I have a 96 LX. Does anyone know where the turn signal relay is located. It clicks fast and then clicks slow. The turn signal lights work when it clicks slow, so I'm thinking the relay needs to be replaced. Thanks
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Look in your owner's manual. But I believe there are two fuse boxes. One just underneath the dash near the drivers door, and another "black box" with fuses underneath the hood.
    Good luck.
  • Having the neighborhood independent hole-in-the-wall garage install Brembo brake rotors made my 2000 Taurus a much better vehicle with drastically improved braking performance (off-the-shelf brake pads used, nothing special).

    Local Ford dealer mailed me a notice of a wiring harness recall. When I picked it up service advisor really pushed to have me let them repair it for a mild rough cold start. I declined and on the less than three mile drive home, the car died at a red light and ran incredibly rough. It also ran rough for the next couple of days, obviously, this desperate dealer had sprayed something somewhere to hopefully make me come running back for repair. About a week later the dealer called me asking if I wanted my cold start problem repaire. Desperate......this dealer was charging $55 for oil changes...15 years ago.
  • Greetings,
    My Keyless entry for a 2001 Mercury Sable Wagon LS is not working. I have replaced the battery and the unit is not responding. Does anyone have any ideas?

  • laf3laf3 Posts: 5
    WE would welcome any suggestions as we comtemplate keeping our most recent acquisition of a 2000LHS, and buying an 04 SES. I had a 95 SE that I absolutely loved and put 106K on before I totalled it :sick: I cannot find anything I love as much, and nothing with seats as comfortable as the SE. If anyone is interested in an immaculate 95 SE with spoiler, premium sound, cloth/leather seats that needs a new bumper, passenger fender and mirror, we're selling it for $1200 and lots of tears. :cry: Anyway, the LHS is loaded (our first luxury car) and very nice, but too big, and it's not a Taurus...any thoughts?
  • Hi, If the LHS has the infamous Chrysler 2.7 engine, get rid of it ...quick!! Just do an internet search for "Chrysler 2.7 engine, problems" to see how bad it is.

    Consider getting a slightly older Taurus, a 2000 or 2001, if purchased for $4500 or less will have 80-90% of the dreaded Taurus depreciation wrung out of it, much like someone would wring the water out of a wet cloth by twisting it. The lower horsepower Vulcan engine actually has a better reliability rating (155 HP). 2000 first year of last Taurus redesign. Then look up Autobarn's internet site and get some Brembo front brake rotors (off-the-shelf brake pads your local mechanic can get are fine). Brembos drastically improve braking performance.

    Seldom meet or hear of anyone keeping those large Chryslers/Dodges for very long.
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