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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • jimxojimxo Posts: 423
    My 1995 GL has 181,000 miles and no major repairs not even the transmission. I replaced alternator at 135K and water pump/radiator at 172K. The rest is scheduled maintance. I ask my mechanic if I was lucky. He explained that my car was equipment with a "police package" which included heavy duty trans, SHO suspension and a modified 3.0 V6. Over the years has he has done all my maintence and said he was told this by Ford as he order new replacement parts. Can this be true? If so I would like to see if there is a version of this on 2001 Taurus. He said that he has seen other similar Taurus with this equipment exceed 400,000 miles. I am not sure if I should consider making a change.
  • Thanks for the info. I love My 97 it has the cd in the trunk. The 99 I will put in the trunk as well.
    I was looking at crutch field's catalog . I will check out the "Radios and More" located in Fayetteville, NY ( People now.
    Thanks Again.
  • 456ttt456ttt Posts: 13
    My alarm goes off now and then for no reason, would anyone know how to disconnect it entirely ?
  • No, I don't know how to do this, but after reading prior posts about bad door switches for the interior lights, maybe you should try replacing those switches first (since they are generally hooked into the alarm system) and leaving the alarm connected. Just a thought.
  • mictromictro Posts: 29
    I'm new to this section of the Townhall and I am hoping that everyone is as helpful as in the Pickup topics.

    I have a 1993 Ford Taurus GL Sedan with the 3.8L V-6 (100,500 miles). Over the weekend, we experienced some severe engine trouble. It is either a blown head gasket or cracked engine block. I am interested in cutting my losses with this vehicle and just getting rid of it.

    Does any one have any thoughts on what the vehicle is worth as is? The body and interior are in good shape. There are no other problems with the vehicle that I am aware of.

    Any help would be most appreciated.

  • The plate that holds the rear control arms is cracked along with the box beam it attaches to.

    Anyone have idea how to fix less than the
    frame shop quote of $3000.
  • Mictro,

    It's the head gaskets! The 3.8L Ford head gaskets have a better popping ratio than Orville Redenbacher!!! When mine on my '93 went (in 1998), it cost me $1,300 to have fixed at an independent shop. They did NOT use Ford parts when they repaired it and they said that they had never had one come back a second time. Car ran beautifully after that, so you might want to reconsider selling if you like the car. I ended up selling mine after my daughter hit the back end of a pickup with it (last spring)! The bumber was fine, but the fascia, headlights and hood were goners. Body shop estimate was $1,800. Since I don't know anybody "in the business" as they say, that is what it would have cost me to fix it. Instead, I finally ended up selling it (103,000 miles) to a Ford used car salesman for $800. He was able to get it fixed cheaper than I could. He hasn't had any problems with it that I am aware of. In my mind then, I got $2,600 for the car (this was last October). If you go by the same formula I did, you could probably get about $900 - $1,300 for yours if it is in excellent shape.

    By the way, have you talked to Ford about fixing it? They have been covering some of the costs of this repair under a secret, extended warranty. I don't know the details though, but perhaps someone else does on here.

    Good luck!
  • mictromictro Posts: 29
    Thanks for the great information. I do appreciate it.

    I've got a pretty good contact at a local Ford dealership. I'll be talkin' with him today about a possible "secret warranty". The worst they can say is no, right? I'll let you know if I have any success.

  • Just bought a 2001 ES with 16,000 miles for 16,200. I tried to use Edmund's to gauge what I should pay. I figured around 16,000. What do you think? A friend of mine paid 12,400 for a 2000 SE with 25,000 miles. Does it depreciate that much?
  • The 2000's seem to hold $1000 more than the 1999's did, since they have the restyle, etc.

    My neighboorhood Ford dealer had a glut of year old 1999's last year for $11-12K. Now they have 2000's for $13-14K. They get a lot of rental cars for sale.

    Also, used Focus' go for more money than 2000 used 4 cyl. Contours. The local dealer has '00 Contours for $9999 and used '00 Focus SE's for $12-14K.
  • gbonkgbonk Posts: 1
    I have just bought a '99 Taurus used, and I love it. The one question I have is this, however. The radio has controls for a cd changer. I am wondering if the cd changer from my old car will work. It is the Sanyo Expedio 10 disc changer. Should I just hook it up and hope for the best, or could something bad happen?
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    I have a 97 L. There is a squeak/rattle coming from the front passenger door. I notice if I drop the window down a little it stops. Anyone else have this problem?
    Have the following questions:
    - Does the door panel come off easily?
    - Do you need special tools to get the door panel off?
    - Will spraying silicone or ID 40 help?

    Car has 58k and runs great. I wouldn't hesitate buying another.
  • Thanks for the great info.

    I just bought/my cd changer from ( They ship any order over $100 free. I put it in and tested the unit. It works great.
    I do not want to mount it in the bottom of the trunk and have mounted it on the underside of the package shelf. I just saved myself over $200 from what the dealer wanted.
    Thanks for your help.
  • I'm real glad it worked out for you. And it was a snap to install when it is the factory unit and comes with the factory wiring harness!

    gbonk - this is a much easier way to go and then you are guaranteed that the CD controls will work. See my message #621 for details of what I am talking about.
  • I haven't had this problem, but in answer to your question about getting the door panel off, no, you don't need any special tools to get the panel off. Just take a Philips head screwdriver and take out every screw you find (they are in the armrest, near the door handle and around the edges of the trim) and also unscrew the door lock trim (the little plastic piece that goes up and down and locks/unlocks the door - it just screws on and off). When they are all off, stick some kind of flat blade between the panel and the metal of the door and pry it up. Once you've got it started, finish pulling it off by hand. When you have it off, you'll see that it was held in place by about 8 or 10 white plastic trim fasteners that just push into holes in the door metal. My experience is that these are prone to break or "strip", but you can get replacements at most auto parts stores. I buy the Body-Tite! brand as they are exact replacements (Ford Panel/Trim retainers - part # 45476 - about $1 for 3 of them).

    Good luck!
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    Thanks - will give it a try.
  • Anyone know how I can avoid having to pay $100 to my local rip-off Ford dealer for a replacement spare key for my wife's '96 SHO? They want $75 for "programming" and $25 per key, AND they want me to bring the car in for the day. This seems ridiculous to me - I read in a post on the SHOTimes site that it is possible to get a blank key from Ford and program it yourself. Anyone done this? It's the PATS system key.


    Jonty Rees
  • I walked in to my local Ford dealer and in the showroom was a 1999 Taurus SE. They "found" out in the field. The sticker on it is 18k and it has ABS, Power Driver seat. What should I offer for this? There are asking 17k.
  • The blank key should cost about $25-$30. As long as you have 2 other keys that are already programmed and working for that car, you can program a third one yourself. The directions on how to do this should be in the owner's manual. If not, let me know and I can send you an e-mail with them.
  • I might be a great find, it might be a returned lemon. First thing to do is pay for one of those searchs to see if there are title problems (such as on the Kelly Blue Book Site - sorry Edmond's!). Next, if they won't negotiate on the price (and I think what you quoted is high considering you can get a new one for only a little bit more), find something they will negotiate on: extended warranty (remember, the 36 month part of that warranty is already 24 months old - might be a problem later on, might not be), financing, oil changes, whatever! Also you need to remember that as soon as you drive it off the lot, you now own a 2 year old used car with all the depreciation that goes with that! If you intend to keep it, not a problem. If you don't want to keep it forever, what about leasing it? Any dealing they are willing to do there? Double check on the warranties that are not provided by Ford (like the tires). Are you going to be left "uncovered" in case of a problem there? Lastly, I'd have them change ALL the fluids and filters (oil, tranny, power steering, brake, etc) since the possibility of contamination from sitting so long is quite high. Have them lightly turn the brake rotors and drums too.

    Anyway, those are just my thoughts on how I would handle it. Good luck!
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