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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008

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Comments

  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,674
    I will try and get it into the dealer in the next week or so, and will post results...if they find it...if they don't, I will not be a happy camper..
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Posts: 854
    Taurus resale value is low mainly because of "the law of supply and demand". There are lots of fleet sales and when they are resold, the prices drop since there are so many for sale. Also, most brand new Tauruses are sold at way below sticker, which shows up on the future value of the cars.

    More Toyota Camrys have entered the fleet market and it has affected the resale, also.
  • shark110shark110 Posts: 7
    Just picked up my new 2001 SES----they are dealing on these cars if anyone is considering a purchase--with moonroof, mach system and cd changer, floor mats, floor shifter, heated mirrors, and traction control--$20,200 with destination included----on base v6 engine, sunroof is a no charge option---if you go with 24v engine you must pay for sunroof if you want one.
  • 427435427435 Posts: 86
    Just acquired a 96 Sable with 24,000 miles. On several occasions (hot days driving 70 mph into a slight headwind), a very annoying howl develops from somewhere on the passenger side. I suspect a sealing problem with either the windshield or door. Anyone got any experience with this?
  • ohio7ohio7 Posts: 67
    sosborne301 - re: reasons to buy a new Taurus

    1. That wonderful new car smell!!
    2. Lack of other noxious smells especially smoke!
    3. Having the full warrenty and knowing what has been done to the car if it needs anything.
    4. NOT worrying about resale if you plan on keeping it until death.
    5. Having a car with no door/fender dings.
    6. Not having to guess how well the previous owner took care of it.
    7. Etc, etc.

    snowman - re: 2000 SEL troubles

    I now have 7000 miles on my 2000 SEL and have zero complaints or problems. I LOVE the 24 valve Duratec engine with it's 200hp! Around Washington, DC one needs the omph to merge quickly onto the interstate or that dreadful Beltway (495). I drive in the "D" mode rather than the "OD" mode when I'm not on the interstate.
  • mrl11777mrl11777 Posts: 154
    Read your owner's manual and you will see that you should leave it in OD and let the trans do what it is designed to do. Why do so many people out there think that they know better?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I picked up a 2000 SE on last Saturday w/21K on it. It is a light blue. It appears to be very clean car. Dealer replaced the rear breaks too. This is my first Ford. I only owned Hondas and Toyotas. We recently bought a Dodge. We are very happy with it. Let see what will happen with this car.
    In my first chance, I will get all the fluids replaced along with the tires. I will get rid of Firestone tires and buy something much better. I am thinking Yokohoma Touring or Goodyear Aquatred 3, both tires have very good ratings from customers according to tirerack.com
    Dealership offered me an extended warranty by Easycare. They said this company is part of Ford. Which is true, I verified it. However the blank contract they gave me to look at it says, if uncovered part cause damage on covered part then this won't be covered by the warranty. That is very irritating. I did not purchase it yet. I am still searching. I wonder what is written on Ford's ESP, any input from ESP owners??
    Thanks
  • I've just had my dealer perform two recalls on my 2000 SEL. One was the high mount brake light wiring in my spoiler and the other was on the adjustable pedals.
    Also, I read that others have experienced yellow check engine light around 10-15k, I'm at 13,000 and mine came on. Dealer replaced back flow valve and interestingly, the RPMs don't dip and surge as much when I take my foot off of the accelerator. This was beginning to get annoying. Apart from this, I'm celebrating my one year anniversary with the car trouble free.
    Although the true power of the DOHC is out stretching the long legged transmission on the open road, with the engine beginning to loose its new-car stiffness I find that the car is offering slightly more low end torque. It's still not fabulous on takeoffs, but it's more than I expected to have!
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Driving around in "D" will cook your transmission every year!!! Don't do it! By locking out 4th, you are forcing the car to operate in third full-time, which it was not designed to do. The converter never locks up in third, and the transmission fluid superheats, smoking your planetary bearings, seals, bands, etc. The ONLY time your should drop into "D" or lower is while descending a steep hill (hauling a family and trailer in the mountains, for example), and you need engine braking to avoid smoking the brakes. Even then, it should be returned to OD immediately after the descent. Anyone who has told you it's OK to scoot around in "D" is either foolish or a devious transmission technician looking to create some new business!.
  • maryannsmaryanns Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a used 1996 Ford Taurus. I have heard about transmission problems with these cars but I really have no idea about them. I am looking to go to a dealer for them. I have test drove two already. Any suggestions or comments on how these cars are would be greatly appreciated. I am having diffuculty finding out information. Thankyou
  • glinda49glinda49 Posts: 15
    My parents, both in their 70's are in the market for a mid-sized sedan. After reading the reviews here at the Edmunds site, one of the cars they are
    interested in is the 2000 Taurus. I am very concerned about reliability for them and Ford has a very checkered past when it comes to that. Does anyone have any advice to offer about the Taurus. I know every vehicle has its share of good and bad but I want my parents to feel safe and I definitely don't want to worry about the car not performing well for them. Their budget dictates that they cannot spend over $15,000 and I have read that the Taurus is a lot of car for the money. Any insight from you Ford owners would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • ohio7ohio7 Posts: 67
    Re: driving in "D"

    No, "wijoco" I don't think that I know more than the manual concerning this subject. (See below)

    To "mrl11777" - Thank you very much for the very detailed explanation of what happens to my transmission when driving in "D". (Do you work on cars for a living?) I've been doing this since I read it in an earlier posting from last winter some time (From someone like yourself, who I THOUGHT might know more than I.)

    A number of people were complaining that the car would not coast to a stop after release of the gas pedal. They had to use excessive force to stop the car. I, too, was experiencing the same thing. When I tried his suggestion, the problem went away. I posted this result earlier but no one contradicted me or the original poster. (Where were you then when I needed you?)

    I DO know something about transmissions since my dad retired from Ford performing inspections on large transmissions of years ago. He taught me pretty well. I only drove in "D" under 35 mph and would use "OD" when going higher as I stated in my post.

    Since I drive only 6 miles a day under 35mph I'm hoping that I've done no serious harm these past 6-7 months. I guess time will tell.

    Anyone else out there that works/makes transmissions for a living please set us straight.

    To glinda49: Regarding the 2000 Taurus for your parents. Your best bet is to go to the beginning of this posting and read all of the comments from people like me and take notes. You can't do better than that. No critic is better than an owner.
  • bajabillbajabill Posts: 60
    just bought 2000 ses, 26000 miles (vortec engine, not the better duratek engine)

    certified used from Lincoln dealer, 10,000 miles left on original warranty,
    cert used warnty- 75,000 drive train, primary engine, transmission parts, roadside assistance, towing, battery recharge etc.

    $12,800 for a roomy, very nice riding, and safe car with a warranty long enough to tell if it is a lemon or not.
  • ndfarndfar Posts: 19
    I noticed in the owners manual that they recommend oil change at 5000 miles but when you get it done at a shop they always say 3000 miles or 3 months. The manual says that change rate is for excessive idling as a police or taxi and for pulling trailers. What is everyone going by?
    Also is the extended warranty a good investment? I bought a 1999 and 2000 Taurus last March and was wondering if it might be a needed thing to have or a waste of money.
  • s852s852 Posts: 1,051
    5000 miles should be plenty for a 1999-2000 Taurus and it keeps the oil change schedule in synch with tire rotations so it's much more convenient.
    Of course the oil change service places want you to bring the car in to change oil as often as possible. That is their business.
    An extended warranty might not be a bad idea if you can get a good deal on one. They are usually way overpriced.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    I do not work on cars for a living anymore but I have put well over 100,000 miles each on 3 Taurus' since 1990 as company cars. I currently have a 2001 model. Never had a transmission problem with any of them. And, yes, human beings do know more than transmissions. We have the capability to anticipate and see traffic patterns, hilly terrain, and traffic signals.

    I have always locked out overdrive when driving in situations that would otherwise make the tranmission constantly shift in and out of overdrive and/or continually lock and unlock the converter. The manual even recommends that.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,674
    that I would post my results, if anyone was interested...I had a metallic vibration that reverberated when I went over a bump on my 2000 Sable LS...the technician and I test drove the car, and for awhile no bump would re-create the noise, and I began to feel stupid...finally, went over a bump and there it was...he diagnosed the problem as worn out rear struts...he changed both rear struts and the problem is 90% gone...cannot figure out about the other 10%, but I must compliment the dealer's service department on their helpfulness and eagerness to please...it has been a pleasant experience, compared to other dealerships I have "endured" in my life...
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    <<No, "wijoco" I don't think that I know more than the manual
    concerning this subject.>>

    Ohio7 I never said that! But, most people who say "Yeah I drive around in "D" because I like the power/fuel economy/less shifting/etc." end up forgetting to shift back into "OD" when they approach 40-45 mph. And after a year or two of abuse, they find the transmission's life shortened. Now, as you say, brucelinc, if you drive for long stretches at 35 or less (commute through the city, for example), then you'll do no damage. That's the exception to the rule, though, for most people, and it's sooooo easy to ignore that little "O/D" light on the dash and forget to re-engage OD at cruising speeds. Heck, if you can handle it, go for it. I like to err on the side of caution myself.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    Good point, wijoco, it would be easy to forget. I am a "gearhead" and am pretty aware of what is going on with my cars, but I have forgotten to shift back to OD myself on a couple of occasions.

    Now, I am not arguing here and maybe this is the wrong forum for this discussion, but I am really curious about something. Why is driving in "D" harmful to the transmission? Automatic overdrive and lock-up converters weren't even used 15-20 years ago. How is driving in "D" with a modern automatic any more harmful than driving in "D" with, say, a '75 Ford that had no overdrive or lock-up converter? Thanks.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    as there is no longer a button and an associated light when switching out of OD. on our 2001 SEL, it is now a gear detent.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    <<Now, I am not arguing here and maybe this is the wrong forum
    for this discussion, but I am really curious about something.
    Why is driving in "D" harmful to the transmission? Automatic
    overdrive and lock-up converters weren't even used 15-20 years
    ago. How is driving in "D" with a modern automatic any more
    harmful than driving in "D" with, say, a '75 Ford that had no
    overdrive or lock-up converter? Thanks. >>

    Heehee. Funny you mention a '75 Ford automatic, as I'm the proud owner of '76 and '79 Ford pickups, complete with the old C-4 Clunkomatics. To answer your question, I'm not a transmission rebuilder myself and don't know the exact breakdown process of cruising in 3 instead of 4. But I do have some friends (both on the repair side and the parts side) who have told me that a lot of people replace transmissions prematurely, and continually, and at some point a service manager finally picks up on the fact that the owner misunderstood the purpose of overdrive. Often people will consider it an "extra gear" or a "top speed" gear, only to be shifted into at high speeds. I also know a few owners who have done the same thing by shifting out of OD (while towing something around town, or whatever), and either forgot to reengage it or decided they just "liked it better" in D. And sure enough, a transmission rebuild was about six months to a year away. As best I understand by what mechanics have told me, each gear is designed for a particular speed range, which means a particular rotational speed of whatever bearings are supporting that gear (each transmission is a little different), and if the gearsets turn too fast for too long a period, frictional heat builds up faster than the transmission can dissipate heat through the radiator lines and underbody air movement, and it overheats and cooks. I can't draw it out in a diagram, but that's the basic theory. And even though my old 70's F100s only have three forward gears, the ratios are very different from the first three gears in a four-speed automatic. A comfortable speed for my truck's third gear is anywhere from 35-65 mph, while my Taurus's third gear would start to overheat at about 45-60 mph. Plus, the lockup converter aids in both improving fuel economy AND reducing heat buildup due to fluid friction between the two torque converter vanes. Then again, most converters don't lockup until about 45+ mph. Yours certainly isn't the typical American commute to work, but if you're staying under 35 or so, you're probably OK in 3. That's my best understanding of it.
  • After problems on the Firestones on my 92 Taurus I bought Michelin xONE's. Beautiful. Rides like a dream and great traction in snow!
    I currently have 261,000 kilometers on the car. I change oil every 3000 miles, turn-up every 50,000 miles, transmission oil every 40,000 miles. No major problems. I am hoping to keep till 400,000 km.
  • I bought a preowned '97 Taurus LX from a dealer a few months ago. I was getting, on average, 370-400 miles/tank. Within the past 3 weeks it's gone down to less than 300 a tank. I was wondering if that much of a difference could be due to the heat? I live in Texas and during that same time period we've had no rain and temperatures on the road up to 105 degrees. I know the heat warped my rotars..which I will be replacing soon anyway. Anyone have a clue, or could this be a bigger problem?
  • spr701spr701 Posts: 4
    on all the cars ive owned that have had od (85 chev caprice classic,89 chev caprice classic,and now i own 1990 ford taurus lx) ive driven in OD all the time. the tranny on the 85 caprice went out at 98,000 miles. i had the transmission rebuilt instead of putting in a new one. it cost me 800 dollars instead of 1200 dollars. the 1200 dollars was what the repair place wanted for a new tranny. never had any more problems with the tranny.the 85 caprice was totaled in an accident at 140 thousand miles. my 89 caprice now has 166,000 miles on it. it still has the original tranny in it.ive never had any problems with the tranny in that car. the only thing i ever did as far as maintenance for the tranny in that car was to change the automatic transmission fluid every 25 thousand miles. the only reason im getting rid of it is because im giving it away to charity in a couple months. i just bought the 1990 taurus lx with 106 thousand miles from my mom because she just bought a new 2001 saturn. i intend to drive the taurus in OD all the time unless i need extra traction in bad weather conditions,in that case i will shift down to D instead of OD. i still will change the automatic transmission fluid every 25 thousand miles just like i did on all my other cars.
  • spr701spr701 Posts: 4
    first check edmunds used car section and see how much the car that you are interested in is worth.then if you are still interested in the car tell the person selling it that you want to take the car to your regular mechanic and have him take a look at the car and see if he finds anything wrong with it. it usally costs 40 to 60 dollars depending on the mechanic. then if your mechanic says its a good car decide if you want to buy it or not. if the seller wont let you take the car to your mechanic to have it checked out before you buy,then just walk away and look for a car elsewhere. the seller is probably not telling you the truth about the car if he wont let you take it to your mechanic and have it checked out. 40 to 60 dollars isnt alot of money when it comes to having the peace of mind that you bought a decent car.
  • spr701spr701 Posts: 4
    i forgot to say that even though i drive my personal car in OD all the time when it comes to driving any of the cars at work my boss wants us workers to never use OD and always keep the transmission in D. it doesnt make sense to me because it seems like the cars at my workplace are always needing new transmissions or needing transmission repair or service.that must get quite expensive because there are 20 to 25 cars that seem to need transmission work all the time.
  • spr701spr701 Posts: 4
    i would think one reason your gas mileage is plummenting is because if its 105 degrees outside my guess is you are running the air conditioning constantly. i always get less miles to the gallon everytime i drive with the air conditioning on. i dont know its just a guess, i might be wrong.i would just think that in the intense heat your car has to "work" alot harder. make sure the tires have the proper amount of air in them. usally its 32-35 pounds per square inch. also you might want to look at the air filter and see if you need a new filter or maybe the car needs a tune up. alot of the time if you correct some of the small things it can add up to a big difference in gas mileage.
  • On my 92 Taurus I ment to say 50,000 km not 50,000 miles for the tunup and 40,000 km not 40,000 miles for the tranmission oil change(divide km by 1.603944 to get miles).
  • glinda49glinda49 Posts: 15
    My father just purchased a 2000 Sable LS and has noticed what could be described as "ringing" when he brakes. Since we are all new to the Mercury line, can anyone tell me if this is just the nature of the beast or what? The brakes seem to work fine and on one occasion he did not notice it until the car was filled with passengers and had been driven quite a bit that day. That probably was not a factor as I beleive the next day while he was alone in the car it made the same noise. Anything else we should know to watch out for with this model? Thanks.
  • oxx93oxx93 Posts: 67
    i have a 2001 taurus ses--12v v6--how long between oil changes--i have heard anywhere from every 3000 to 5000 miles---i drive about 750 miles a month---any suggestions or experiences?
This discussion has been closed.