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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008
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Comments
e-mail response to lcoats@woh.rr.com
So it just may be that your car (an 05') does not have the CD changer option.
Looking seriously at a used 2001 SEL Taurus with 85000 miles. It is in decent shape, no dents, just a few dings and interior scrapes. Seems well maintained, though it clunks over some bumps. The owner says it is the sway bar (or did he say stabilizer) bushings. He says new brakes and tires less than 10,000 miles ago. Oil is clean. He is willing to have the bushings done, but I am afraid how that will interfere with negotiations. Will he think I would then pay full asking price? Couldn't tell how the a/c is, as it is abnormally cold here in the NOrtheast.
Do Tauruses have a reputation for bad a/c units (like dodge/chrysler)? How about Trannys? I can't have an inspection because his wife died, so he didn't renew the plates, and is reluctant to let it on the main roads where we could be stoppped. (I believe his story-he is rather old).
Edmunds price for average is 4400 and clean is 5300. He is asking 6500, which is dealer retail for clean. The kelly blue book ranges from 5400 for fair to 6245 for good to 6785 for excellent. THose numbers seem high. Thinking of offering 5,000 (is that insulting to him?) and settling around 5300. Don't know how the bushings will figure into that. Any advice on the reliabilty and price for this car? It seems high to spend to me for the mileage. This is for a 17 year old.
If that can't happen, just buy something else.
THe rest of the car look really good, BTW, but I hope this design does not turn off the people who would be most interested in this car.
What do you think?
Taurus 263hp, 18city 28highway.
Avalon 268hp, 20city 28highway. You see the same highway mileage.
I definately would consider it, being its $4k less than Avalon.
It will also resell for more than $4K less, so no savings.
It had "enough" power, but did not sound super slick and refined like a Japanese Toyota/Lexus V6 or even a Nissan or Honda V6 that all sound smooth and luxurious even when revved hard.
I'm sure the lower priced Taurus will be likely seem even worse due to less sound insulation than a Lincoln.
A nice engine doesn't have to hide behind loads of sound insulation to mask crass engine noises.
I still think Toyota has the best cars on the road, but the gap is closing as Toyota quality goes down the American quality goes up. Toyota's quality started to go down because they're growing way too fast.
It depends what do you want from cars. Camry is certainly not the best car e.g. It is rather mediocre. It is not even good highway cruiser. The only thing good about it is sound isolation (and may be quiet engine). I personally do noy care for quiet engine, still prefer hearing engine and feeling the road.
Doesn't even the SEL have black plastic interior door release handles now? I think they also removed the cabin air filter the previous years had.
You would be better off buying an ex-rental directly from Hertz or Budget if yo must buy one at all. They keep the best ones to sell themselves and the rest get auctioned off and resold at car dealerships.
They also got rid of the optional 24 valve engine even though it had more power and didn't use any more fuel. They should have just made it standard and dropped the Vulcan instead.
Hertz has their own program with money back guarantee, fixed prices and reasonably priced extended warranties that have better coverage than the the "Certified" program coverage you get from Ford. The Hertz fixed price plus extended warranty is still cheaper than the Ford Certified car with the standard Certified program coverage. All of the Hertz cars will have some of the original Ford factory warranty coverage remaining. Almost all have under 30K miles and a few might have under 20K miles.
Budget probably has similar program.
You will pay a price premium for the dealer certified car that the rental company dumped because it didn't meet some minimum standard of cars they wanted to sell on their own.
I'm debating on buying an ex rental i've heard horror stories about how some rental companies do not complete oil changes on time and other maint.
Plus, since the car is still under factory warranty, you still have the option to buy a Ford warranty from a Ford dealer if you really feel more comfortable with the Ford extended warranty.
Hertz also had a 30 day return policy on the car.
The cars at the dealer likely came from a rental company anyway since there are no private party new car sales of the 2006-2007 Taurus.
The cars from Hertz and Budget with problems such as missing service, higher mileage or other problems are auctioned off to dealers and they keeps the rest to sell themself.
The additional costs you should factor in is that the car will likely be due for 30K service within months of purchase at $400-500 if you have it done a Ford dealer and you will probably also need to replace the original tires and front brake pads in less than a year at that mileage.
After that, you should be home free for a long time.
The dealer has to disclose it as "Prior Rental" or "Previous Daily Rental" when they sell if it came from a rent-a-car company. It is usually stamped on their window sticker.
If this is the car you want, I don't see any reason to buy a used Taurus at a used car lot at a Ford dealer rather than from Hertz car sales directly.
You will also save the aggravation of dealing with typical used car salespeople since buying from Hertz is more of a no-hassle CarMax/Saturn sales experience.
The Taurus SEL was very nice, The new 08 Taurus will look just like the Ford Five Hundred and I don't care for that boxy style look.
They are usually dated cars overdue for redesign and with more limited choice of options than the average car.
They sell to fleets rather than stopping production.
You should probably verify that the car you want has ABS if ABS wasn't a standard feature. They tend to skimp on options they think people won't notice right away.
I did notice some with ABS and some had the flex fuel engine which can use the E85 Ethanol which would be a savings.
I just wanted to say that although the current topic is the new Tauruses, I bit the bullet and bought a '97 - With the 3 liter V6 (VIN starts as 1FAL - Not sure of the engine is the Vulcan or the Duratech, but it's got some oomph), because of a rear end collision that totaled my car (1991 Caprice, with the 305). I must say, I love this car - Although I miss having a CD Player (I know I can get one from Crutchfield, with an adapter) - Is it better than Ebay, really? I hate having to use my tape adapter with my MP3 player, and it also eats batteries. I don't have any of the old service records, but almost everything looks factory - Meaning some surface rust on the block, etc - But there's one little problem that I've noticed over the last week.....I noticed the trans slipping (Well, slamming like it was in neutral then dropped into drive) whenever I tried to accelerate from a full stop, and when I opened the hood, I apparently had blown out a transmission line, which leads me to my main question - Is this an easy fix, or is it better to let a mechanic fix it? I'm not too worried, I only paid $1000 for the car (Well, the insurance company paid the $900, I covered tax and title) - And would it hurt the trans too much if I added more fluid to it to drive it to the mechanic I bought it from if I need to? I really love this car, and I don't want it to take a worse dive!
It should be noted that this GL has 191k on the odometer, and NO lights are on - But I'm not Ford savvy, so any help would be great!
Lastly, are there any recalls for this year, and would I even qualify if there were?
Sorry for dragging, I tend to ramble.
Thanks for your time!
Kenny
I am customizing some things on it and I'm sure i will be showing it off, and that noise drives me crazy.
The if it was a Certified car than the dealer should have hooked up the car up to the console during service and pulled the code.
The code is only stored on the car's computer so if they didn't pull it and are not willing to pull it after the sale for free than you may just be SOL or have to pay.
Mark
The problem may be something like a carburator needle valve but I am new to fuel injection. I have read that the air pressure sensor or gas return valve may be the cause. what would you suggest? I am still unfamiliar with these terms but can do research if I know where to look.
Thanks :confuse:
won't engage for the first 10-15 minutes of driving. I asked my dealer if I was having
the stuck solenoid problem mentioned on the maintenance & repair
discussion. They explained that the torque converter needs to be at a
certain temperature. This seems odd that the overdrive is actually the
locking of the torque converter. My old Regal had a separate overdrive
gear ratio from the lock up feature. This is rather annoying since I have
a short highway commute and it impacts my winter mileage.
2001 SEL Duratec 24V
1) no unexpected major repairs except fuel pump replacement in subzero weather with a low tank (I have since learned not to let it go low since the gas cools (or in this case warms) the pump. Probably my bad.
2) one brake job.
3) one serpentine belt
4) no bulbs replaced or electrical problems
5) original headlights and lamps
6) good power and pickup (about 85% of new performance).
7) still the original fuel filter (I am going to change it since I recently learned that change is recommended every 15K miles--gads am I lucky to get 140K?)
8) the original spark plugs.
9) I changed the transmission fluid and brake fluid once at about 100K.
10) The leatherette drivers seat and back window panel are creased, broken and falling off but that's easily covered or fixed.
11) one battery replacement.
12) new front stabilizer links and lower ball joints at 130K.
13) original exhaust system with no issues (remarkable).
14) original air conditioner charge and ice cold air delivery.
15) good fuel economy approx 20 city and 30 highway with cruise control at 65-70mph.
16) no complaints ergonomically or otherwise.
If you get the idea I strongly endorse the product and the engineering at Ford. I am very pleasantly surprised. I used to own a BMW and expensive repairs and replacements were the rule not the exception, even the drive shaft needed to be replaced, brakes every 25K, horrendously expensive.
Fuel filter has to be changed every 30K miles. I did not change serpantine belt, brakes though. Changed battery once and tires also once (better change because stock tires suck).
Spark plugs must be changed at 100K and it is expensive. Do not forget to replace also wires.