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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008



  • mdr6404mdr6404 Posts: 5
    Usually the Service Plans can be negotiated on the price. Brother in law only paid 750 for the 100.000 on a f-150, different dealer I paid 1000 for it.
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Posts: 793
    Just to correct your engine description. The Vulcan is the base 3.0L. The Duratec is the DOHC, 24V, 200hp that you described. If you get 30ish mpg on the highway, I would venture a guess that you have the base 12V, 170(?)hp, Vulcan. My '96 Sable with the Duratec has never achieved over 27 mpg on the highway, usually in the 25-26 range. And around town, I've never seen the other side of 20. Usually 16-18 mpg. Those extra intake valves sure suck in the fuel! At least the power makes it worth it!
  • rdl40rdl40 Posts: 60
    Sad, I just sold my wife's '93 sho with a 171,000 miles on the odometer, what a great engine. The thing never
    even hiccuped once.

    I had a '91 SHO, best and most fun car I ever had. That car had 175,000 miles when it sold a couple years ago. My friend "Vadim" at the SHO SHOP did his magic. The car dynoed 265hp at the crank and I was smokin' ever thing out their except some vettes.
    A real wolf in sheeps clothing!!!
  • demichidemichi Posts: 9
    I have problem with my turn signals. Suddenly both signals shut off. And after while(3-4parking hours)came back. This problem repeated on weekly basis,last 4-5 weeks.
    I'm wondering,if somebody experienced same type of
    problem.How did you fix it?
    BTW,I've been at dealer,he replaced me switch on the steering column. But this problem still exist?
  • 06mike06mike Posts: 13
    98 Sable with 22K miles on 3.0 Vulcan. Pings under load after warnup. Also I have a feeling there is no engine braking when you let up on the accelerator. The car will coast forever. Must be rough on the brakes. I went to my local mechanic who checked for Ford service bulletins and found one. Bulletin said two potential diagnostic trouble codes from malfunction indicator lamp might lead to powertrain control module (PCM) recalibration. Local mechanic said he did not have capability to recalibrate, only the dealer could do such. I went to the Mercury dealer, explained the problem, showed him the service bulletin and marveled at his attempt to ask me what language I was speaking. Surprise, surprise he never heard of this service bulletin.
    Has anyone else had pinging or lack of engine braking? Will the pinging hurt the engine? Supposed dealer adjustment had no affect on either problem.
  • Daniel, if you can replicate the problem, why not just take it to the dealer and have them fix it. If you can't replicate it, I'd still take it to the dealer...they can plug it into the computer and see if any trouble codes come up. What grade of gasoline are you using in it?
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    those SHO motors are indestructible aren't they?
  • rdl40rdl40 Posts: 60
    I totally agree, mine sounded so sweet in full
    song! That car had"soul"

    Also, its a shame that Ford doesn't offer a
    4-door hot rod anymore. I've been shopping for a car for months and decided on a BMW 3 series(5-speeed, rear drive etc).
    My bmw is due in next week, I never in a million years would of thought I'd be driving one. These are the same cars I used to eat for lunch. Go figure.
  • I have a '98 Sable LS sedan with about 40K on it. This has been a pretty good car for me, but I have been encountering some strange electrical problems recently. It all started a couple of months ago. When I pressed the lock button on my key fob twice the horn beeped twice (indicating that all four doors were not closed securely). This has happened several times, and I also saw the door ajar warning indicator light on while driving once--but none of the doors seemed to have been open. I put the car in park at the next red light, slammed all four doors, but the indicator stayed illuminated. When I put the car in drive and started moving the light went away. What is really concerning me, however, is that recently my SRS warning indicator has been staying illuminated for about 10-15 seconds after all other warning lights dim. According to the owners manual this means the airbags may not deploy in an accident, so I will be bringing it into the dealership this afternoon. I think there may be two possible causes of the problem. First, a few days ago someone tapped my rear bumper, and the next day I began noticing the warning indicator. Are there airbag sensors in the rear bumper? If so, could such a small collision (5 mph or less) cause the warning light to illuminate? Also, the weather had been unseasonably mild in New England for several weeks, and this week the temperatures dropped dramatically. Could this be the cause? I am asking because I have not had good experiences with my local dealer, and I don't really trust their solutions. Has anyone else experienced problems with either of these warning lights? Any response would be greatly appreciated.
  • danielj6danielj6 Posts: 285
    Pilot: I use 87 Octane gasoline, and never used anything higher because the owner's manual says 87
    is fine.

    I think the problem has been lessened if not resolved. I used to turn the key to the on position and leave it for 3-4 seconds. I read
    that this practice was beneficial for the fuel injections or something similar. I don't leave the key in on position anymore except for the mornings.
  • g1994stsg1994sts Posts: 26
    I have ignored what the manual says regarding 87 octane recommended gas, It's erroneous information. Manuals are only guides and are not be trusted.

    These are high compression rev happy engines, 87 octane cannot support Ford's v6 engines. One day, after owning the car for few weeks, my new 99 Taurus engine knocked so bad on 87 octane, I had to top it off with about $8 of super, problem solved.

    87 octane is hit or miss for quality, your taurus may run ok on one brand, or It may engine knock and rattle right to the junk yard on another.

    I have been using Mid-grade ever since and is ping/engine knock free. It's just amazing how you explain a simple valid concern like engine knock to the Dealer, and they look at you as if you have two heads or offer any good suggestions.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    You might have some stations that sell bad gas in your area rather than....
    I have used/been using 87 octane for all my cars (accords, Civics, Corollas...), including my 00 SES. Never experienced ping or knock.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    No problem with regular grade in our 2001 Taurus SEL...besides you read so much lately that if you use a grade of gasoline other than what the car is looking for, you really hurt the vehicle rather than help it.
  • teoteo Posts: 2,508
    That's a myth. Higher octane gasoline generally works better. My Impala has the 3800 "Series II" V6 engine and it calls for 87 Octane. I never really trusted or liked the varying quality of regular fuels in my location. I have always used 89 midgrade and Zero problems. Engine runs like a champ, plus fuel economy is simply amazing...around 22MPG in the city and 32MPG in the highway.

    Why go cheap with a $20K+ auto?
  • ehennessehenness Posts: 92
    Not really a myth in a lot of cases. Higher octane actually means the gas burns slower (and therefore prevents or reduces knocking, which is caused when the gas burns prematurely due to the compression of the fuel mixture.

    Two things happen when you use higher octane than you need: One, the engine can get carboned up much more easily. The compounds used to raise octane often have the effect of causing carbon in cars that don't need the higher octane. And two, cars calling for regular gas (those that don't have knock sensors or other means for the computer to adjust for octane or older cars without computers) will often produce less power on higher octane gas because of the slower burn of higher octane gas.

    Granted, these effects may be smaller on some cars than others, but they are often measureable. If the car has no means of compensating for octane, and it doesn't require more octane by design or because of pinging, why waste money on gas your car can't effectively use (and may be damaging in the long run from carbon)?

    Even if the carbon part is untrue, the power part is true. So why use gas that costs more and doesn't do squat, and will degrade performance? The Vulcan at least has no way of compensating for octane (other than a base adjustment calibration that is not touched except for altitude calibration). So higher grades of fuel won't help you at all unless you really have a bad pinging problem (it's normal to ping lightly under a load like accelerating uphill).

    Usually it doesn't affect gas mileage, just power output. If you're sensitive to subtle changes in your car, you probably will be able to notice.

    You can always find a station with regular unleaded that your car 'likes' (I had one car that would ping slightly on Texaco, but not on Mobil. My '98 Taurus runs great on regular unleaded but especially likes Shell...). Sticking to a name brand 87 octane gas should be fine.
  • upsetter1upsetter1 Posts: 205
    First look for codes flashing on your engine check indicator. There are engine running codes and memory codes (memory codes are from memory, they are accumulated, so even if problem isn't there anymore engine controller still keeps them for diagnostic purposes and it can affects the calibration, so after fixing the problem codes must be cleared from memory).

    Both codes must be 111. If it is different from 111 look to manual for the decoding and then you can talk with dealer to fix the problem or fix it yourself.

    Pinging can be caused by malfunctioning of air flow sensor. You can also make the experiment - clear computer codes and see what will happen.
  • eng6ineeng6ine Posts: 29
    I use 87 in my 2001 SEL, I have had no knock or pinging. I just went for my 6000 mile service, I follow the extreme schedule because I do a lot of my driving during the week which is stop and go. I had to get the rotos turned, I had a slight wobble in steering wheel when braking at highway speeds, ie tolls, exit ramps, sudden braking. Every thing is fine now.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    You are simply wasting your money by putting higher octane gasoline in your Taurus or Impala. Not only does every car expert say this but so does Ford and Chevy. I remember reading an article (I wish I cna remember where I read it) that all of Fords engines are designed to run on 86 octane (minus the high performance engines). This is done because they sell these cars to countries that don't have the stringent gasoline standards as we do (Mexico, South America, etc.). Finding 87 octane gas can be difficult.

    If you are experiencing pinging in your car with very little miles on it, something is probably wrong with it ad needs to be checked out.

    g1994sts: I'm sure Bill Ford will be happy to know that you the consumer knows more about the Ford Taurus the the Ford engineers that designed it.
  • g1994stsg1994sts Posts: 26
    There seems to be some controversy from what it says in the car manuals. My Ford manual says your Ford is engineered to run on 87 octane, but do not exceed 89 octane containing gasolines. But absolutely do not use any gasolines labeled PREMIUM, as this can cause irreversible engine damage.

    My GM manual says to use only Premium, but no less than 91 octane containing Gasoline. In general GM manuals will recommend Premium, then end it by saying, but it's ok to use 87 octane in your vehicle.

    What's going on here? Its funny that when gas was really expensive like close to $2 bucks I experimented by mixing about 1/3 premium to 2/3 Regular and many times almost on all Regular, my 32v Northstar ran just the same as on Premium, and no engine knock.

    Like enhenness says, if the engine is electronically capable of compensating for octane differences, why spend more money for Premium. Plus It is known now that serious carbon build up problems is attributed to 93 octane gasolines.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    Are you making wholesale statements about all Ford and GM manuals based on limited information? Every maker has cars tuned for different grades of fuel (I'm sure the manual for a SVT Cobra does not recommend the same grade as my 3.8 V/6 Mustang's manual)and I'm sure that if you read a manual for a Grand Am 4 cyl you'd find they specify 87 too!
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