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Volvo S70

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  • tra708tra708 Posts: 3
    I got into my S70 yesterday, and the key won't turn in the ignition. It won't budge! The steering wheel is not locked, and the shift over-ride button is not stuck. So, the car is stranded and i am about to get it towed. any ideas?? needless to say, i am really bummed. thanks for any help....still in love with my car, tho.
    tracy
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    well, if not the steering wheel lock causing a problem, then its a worn key or worn ignition cylinder.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • tra708tra708 Posts: 3
    Thanks! I got it started by slamming my foot down on the brake as hard as i could, and at the same time, turning the key. Still don't know the cause of the problem, though. thanks for the input. tl
  • pepe7pepe7 Posts: 2
    The coolant on my S70 was a little low, and I accidentally put too much (over the max line). Is there any easy way to drain just enough coolant without having to flush? Any tips and advice is appreciated.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    Wish I could remember exactly how it was on my S70, but you've got a few choices with any car. You can either loosen up a hose, pull it away, and let some come out before putting it back on (suggest small hose off overflow tank to avoid letting too much out). You can loosen the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and let some out that way. OR you can use a turkey baster and suck it out of the overflow tank. If its not that much, it wouldn't take long to do it this way and might be the most controllable method.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • asikaasika Posts: 8
    I personally will not worry about it; it will run off when it becomes too hot.
  • pepe7pepe7 Posts: 2
    Thanks guys for all tips. I like the turkey baster method! Would having too much coolant be a reason for the radiator indicator to turn on?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    I don't believe so. As the other poster said, it should just go out the overflow hose.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • quote"This is similar to 628 but in a 98 S70 GLT. The engine will run for about 10 seconds and quit. It does not seem to run the fuel pump, however I can remove its fuse and reinsert it and it will pressurize the line so it will run again for another 10 seconds and quit. Any ideas?"

    I have a 2000 volvo s70 and I have the same problem. I thought it could be a short in the fuel pump wiring(green and red). I am looking all over the internet for some to answer our problem. So far no luck. Please tell me if you have found the problem. Thanks.
  • ptrosptros Posts: 1
    I fixed my daughters s70 by replacing the coolant temprature sensor. It was giving the ecm a false reading. I hooked a scanner on the car and it was reading 300 degrees f. most of the time it would not start first time in the a.m. some times after sitting for a while. the part came from napa and cost around forty dollars.
  • tim15tim15 Posts: 10
    I have the ABS and Trac COntrol lights on intermittingly on my S70. The car has 117K I also hear an occasional clicking noise from the brakes pedel, as if the ABS is activating, even though I am not braking. When this happens, the ABS and traction lites come on. I was going to order the new ABS module, but then thought it could be a wheel sensor. ANy similar problems or tips? DOn't want to buy a module unless absolutely needed. Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    Its 90% likely the module if you have never replaced it. However, before ordering a new very expensive unit, search this forum and you will find the contact info of someone who will repair it for much much less.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • OK, my problem is when i put the key in the ignition, the key will just spin around and not engage the ignition, or it will engage and not start, after a few prayers, a few jingles, it will eventually start, it might take a few seconds, a few minutes, or a few hours, it all depends, anyone have an idea what this might be caused by?
    Thank you

    Chris
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Basically, you need a new ignition.
  • Chris.. Have you checked or replaced the antenna ring? It's the ring around the ignition - where the key is inserted. My probem was similar - started normally, but occasionally and with increased frequency it would not. Replaced the antenna ring - I believe dealer only - and it ran fine. However, 18 months later it's begin to do it again.
  • Hello..we have a 1998 S70 sedan. It has been a terrific car for us, and recently the battery had to be replaced. When we took it in the odometer read 101,000 miles. When we picked it up, it read 12,000 miles. The mechanic had no idea why it happened,,,and many calls to Volvo have resulted in frustration, not information. Does anyone have any idea what may have happened here?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    wow! i mean, wow! I have never ever heard of this happening. Where did you take the car? Something is seriously wrong here (obviously). The ONLY thing I can think of is that your computer was swapped out. Absurd? Yes. Impossible? No. I mean, my theory at this point? The service station did something horribly wrong and fried the CPU, then proceeded to replace it without your knowledge. I dunno. I'm just throwing out a wild idea here.

    Now, you ARE talking about the actual odometer and not the trip meter, correct??

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Who replaced the battery?

    In theory, the odo can be changed, but it would take access to a VADIS or VIDA setup to do it.
    in other words, it would have to be a deliberate act.
  • I found an 1999 White S70 STD with 71000 miles. Pretty much exactly what I am looking. The options above the standard are leather seats, dual power seats, alloy wheels, automatic and power moon roof. The car was well taken care of mechanically they have the complete service records from the Volvo dealership and an independent they use, they are the 2nd owners. but have the service records from the 1st owner.

    However, the leather on seats is cracking and would need to be reupholstered to get into tip top shape. Also, there are a few stains on the backseat carpet because they have children. Besides those items the car is good shape.

    For the price they are asking 7,400 and the car is at this place called the Buggy Bank, they are a facilitator to connect buyers with sellers by hosting their cars at a lot, but you do all negotiating with the private seller. According to edmunds the car is worth ~6,650 in good condition and about ~5,500 in fair condition, if buying from a private seller, add a thousand if from a dealer. So, I'd like to make an offer and a fair that is not too high or low and would like an opinion or two.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    I think all the numbers are a bit high for a base model, frankly. $5k seems like all the money, but hopefully volvomax will chime in with a more accurate appraisal.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    S70's have begun going up in value.
    At least in private party transactions.
    the availability of decent cars is very low.
    Saw the same thing happen w/ the 240 about 10 yrs ago.

    If it were my car,and it was in good mechanical shape w/ all the records, I'd be holding out for $6000 at least.
    I probably would have re-covered the seats though. That isn't a lot of money.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    S70's have begun going up in value.
    Oh, of course. AFTER I sell mine. ;b

    not alot to reupholster leather? hmmm... dont' know about that. I just did the seat bottoms in my alfa last year and it cost me $450. And that was supposedly a special business-to-business secret handshake deal.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    I don't know where you are located Nick, but I just did a quick search in my area and found a dealer in north jersey who has a '99 S70 base with all the key options with 75k miles for $6190; a '99 GLT with 68k miles for $7290; and an '00 SE w/84k miles for $6690. And those are just the asking prices, of course. I don't believe its specifically a volvo dealer, but they seem to carry 90% volvos. I keep seeing nice low mile V70s pop up in their inventory that I'm tempted to go check out for my wife.

    Also found a white '98 base model with leather and 86k miles and perfect seats at another dealer for $3995.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Hello folks,

    I recently took my car to the mechanic to fix the rack-n-pinion (apologize for the spelling). After he replaced it, all hell broke loose. First, the car started making a sound when moving, second I got a check engine light with a code that, according to the mechanic, was due to a gas leak.

    So, I took it back to the same mechanic, and he told me that fixed the gas leak, but the noise was coming from the turbo. By the time I got home, the check engine light was back on. So, of course, I took it back. This time the code was diiferent (I believe now it was 1701). The mechanic claimed it was a gas leak from another place, and to fix it, it cost $150. I went for it.

    Again, by the time I got home, the check engine light was back on, but this time with the same 1701 code. I took it back, and the mechanic claimed that this is caused by the leak in the turbo. And offered to clean it up for free.

    When I went back to pick up the car a couple of days later, he told me the mass air flow control unit was damaged and needed to be replaced and that the car was not idling correctly. Sure enough, when I started the car on the mechanic's lot, it kept revving up and down like crazy (when sitting at idle). This was never there before. When I dropped the car off the last time, the engine was humming like a bird. My question is, could it be possible that this is a mere coincidence, or is possible that he screwed something up trying to find the origin of the code?

    Thank you guys for any help that you can offer

    Jay
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    not alot to reupholster leather? hmmm... dont' know about that. I just did the seat bottoms in my alfa last year and it cost me $450. And that was supposedly a special business-to-business secret handshake deal.

    an Alfa huh?
    Well, you paid the Italian car POS special markup :P
  • my wife has a 1998 volvo s70 sedan, auto, non-turbo. while driving, the charging system warning lite came on, and after continuing to drive, slowly but surely, the rest of the dashboard warning lights started to come on one at a time-srs, abs, etc(this is how my wife described it to me), until the dash looked like a Christmas tree, and the car finally petered out just as she pulled into a parking spot.

    any thoughts on what may have caused this? I think it may be the alternator, and hence the battery is probably shot too now. if I jump it, do you think it will make it to the shop?

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    what was wrong with the steering?

    well, yeah, if everything was fine until a mechanic touched the car, I'd certainly be looking to them as the cause of the problem.

    what year is your S70?

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    It sounds strange ... but I guess the alternator could be the problem. If you have a battery charger at home, I would use that rather than jumping it. Jumping it is never a good thing. Damage to the computer can occur. PLUS, if it is the alternator, the car will not run for long, if at all, just off a jump. If you can fully charge the battery, then start it and put a meter on it to see where you are at. If you don't have a charger at home, and you don't want to have the car towed somewhere, then remove the battery and take it to a shop to have it tested and charged.

    It COULD be the battery itself. I've never had a car that was as sensitive to the battery's condition as my S70. If the battery was not in very good working order, the car would not operate (as opposed to most cars wherea dying battery may still allow you to start the car and run off the alternator).

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,199
    ya know, somehow I knew you'd say that. :b

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

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