Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Volvo S70

13334363839

Comments

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Sounds like the alternator to me.
    Battery not charging,so the voltage level keeps dropping,this affects different systems on the car until it stops running altogether.
  • I got to look at it today and it is a GLT as oppose to the STD, so that does increase the price a bit. The leather is worn, no one is going to think twice about sitting on it, but it's not in good condition. Besides the tires needing to be replaced, nothing else seems wrong with it from my inspection and they have all the service records and kept it in good shape. The lowest I got them down to was 6500, so barring something being wrong with it when I bring it to the dealer to get looked at, what are your thoughts?

    qbrozen- I live near modesto, ca and have been traveling to the San Francisco Bay area to look at cars and while I have found some cars at that price, they are all at those dealers that buy them at auction, clean them up nice, but under the hood they are a mess. They have all needed about 2-3k in repairs and maintenance.
  • Should I even bother with Volvo's though? I just graduated college and need something that will be reliable and fairly care free as I am either going to get this or a preowned certified cobalt. I would be making payments on the cobalt, but probably in 160-170 range.
  • I've got a 1999 S70 GLT. Originally the problem was a broken Rack-n-pinion. I went to the dealer yesterday to get a diagnostic on the sound the car was still making, and it turned out the mechanic I've been dealing with did not install the rack-n-pinion correctly.

    By the way, I picked up a "mass air flow control unit" from a junk yard last night and installed it on the car. It stopped revving up and down, and it's back to normal. But I'm not sure I can prove the mechanic did it. All I know is that neither the check engine code nor the revving up and down was there before he touched it!

    This was the first time I dealt with this mechanic, and I only went to him cause he's supposed to be a "foreign car expert". Any advice on how to deal with him? What to ask him? I'm thinking small claims court. But I'm wondering if there's an easier way.

    Jay
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    my first question is, how did the rack get broken? And what was the car doing when you brought it to him in the first place?

    2nd, who told you it was installed incorrectly? did this 2nd mechanic find anything else wrong?

    i would get a statement from this mechanic saying it was installed incorrectly and show this to mechanic 1. if he doesn't make good on this problem, then you may need to step it up a notch. Forget the MAF problem. It is a common failure on the '99s, so there is no way to know if anything he did caused that particular problem.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    To be perfectly honest, if you are looking for something that you can neglect maintenance on and have tens of thousands of carefree miles in, then I don't think the volvo is for you.

    However, if you are comparing it to a more expensive Cobalt, why not step up your price on the volvo and get a newer one? The volvo will be infinitely more enjoyable and nicer than the cobalt, that's for sure. But it will cost you money to keep it up. If nothing else, you can buy the volvo and save those payments you would have been making on the cobalt to take care of the maintenance and repairs.

    And, yes, a GLT makes it more valuable, definitely. Also, being in California ups the prices a bit, in my experience. They are more popular here in the northeast, and therefore there are more used ones running around, and therefore the prices are typically lower (i believe).

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I was driving on the highway, and little by little the steering wheel became harder to turn; this was a lot more obvious once I got off the highway. I took the car to the mechanic immediately, and he told me that the rack-n-pinion is cracked and the car was leaking steering fluid. The mechanic showed me how the rack-n-pinion was cracked from both ends (a day before I had my car at Belle Tire for an alignment - not sure if that had anything to do with it. The mechanic said it does not).

    As for the second questions (who told me the rack-n-pinion wasn't installed correctly), when the mechanic failed to give me a reasonable explanation as why the sound still exists when I drive, I took the car to dealer. The dealer told me that there is a specific order how you should install the rack-n-pinion (first the boot then the rack-n-pinion or vice-versa, can't remember). The dealer told me that the mechanic did not follow the correct order and that the rack-n-pinion was not installed correctly. The problem now is that the dealer also mentioned that the boot might've gotten damaged due to driving on an incorrectly installed rack-n-pinion, and the only way for the dealer to know is to take things apart and reinstall which would cost a minimum of $850. This is starting to become a nightmare!!!!

    Thank you for your replies, I really appreciate the help.

    Jay
  • I bought a 1999 S70 new and my wife drove it up until May of '07. We got her a new vehicle but just couldn't part with the Volvo. I drove it a few times and it runs great, but one day, I unlocked the door and the door would not open. I went in through the passenger side and tried to use the inside door latch and the door still wouldn't open. The locking mechanism still appears to work (it goes up and down, anyway) but the door handle does not open the door. Has anyone ever seen this before?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    Not specifically on the S70, but it seems like the latch itself is stuck or inoperable. So, yes, you can still lock and unlock it, but when you pull the handle, the latch is not releasing from the catch. The only choice is to pull the inside panel off the door and check it out. HOWEVER, you may not be able to get the panel off with the seat in place. All you can do is try.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    Well, unfortunately, I don't see a choice here. Have you talked to mechanic #1 since you've visited the dealer? I would tell him you'd like a refund. He may want another shot at it ... I'm not sure what I'd do in that case. I guess I'd cut a deal that he gets 1 more shot and if there are anymore problems, then you get a full refund so you can pay the dealership to do the job right.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Just bought a Used S70 T5 - great for a few days, have a strange loss of power, basically done a full tune up on it- Has anyone had a similar problem that may have advice ? Love the car - Want my power back tho lol!!!!
  • lweisslweiss Posts: 342
    My base model (really base, no leather or sunroof) is up to 136K now, still running well, few rattles, no burning oil and rides in many ways like a new car. My experience with my Volvo is that:

    - You'd better find a good independent repair place, the dealers charge a fortune for almost everything and often have long backups for getting service
    - Motor and transmission are solid- what drives you nuts are little electrical things like bulb replacement (frequent), radio not working well, doorlocks- and my sister's Volvo S80 had similar problems
    - Still the best seats around and a safe car that makes use of its size with roominess and logical design

    And I will run mine into the ground or until something major happens. I have taken test drives in new cars (Mazda6, Honda Accord), then I get back in my 1998 Volvo and it is still more comfortable. And you know, if you can keep driving an older car and not have to assume the massive depreciation of any new car, you are way ahead of the game!
  • My radio fades in and out also but my antena is stuck half way up I was going to replace that first. But I was wondering if anyone knows of another problem it may be for the non reception fading in and out at times?
  • oculus1oculus1 Posts: 6
    I, too, have the same problem re: my antenna in my '99 S70. At first it only got stuck halfway during very cold weather. But now it does that all the time. My radio reception has suffered consequently. Is there a way to lube it or something else, or is replacing the antenna the only option?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    You can completely disassemble the antenna and lube it up ... but it may have stripped teeth, so it would do no good.

    I had mine apart. If you don't know what it looks like, picture one of those toy motorcycles where you zip a toothed nylon chord through the wheel to get it revving. That's what in inside the antenna ... a very long toothed nylon strip. As the motor winds down, it curls the nylon chord into its case, retracting the antenna ... and vice versa to extend.

    When mine did the halfway thing, I took the much cheaper option of buying just the antenna with the nylon chord attached instead of a whole new assembly, which I had to disassemble my motor casing to install the new chord. It was a real pain. As you may imagine, the nylon chord does not want to stay wound and acts like a spring. So it is quite trying to wind it and keep it flat in the case while you try to put the cover back on, while your hands are covered in the lube that covers the chord.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I am having the same problem with my s70 for about 2 years now. After the turbo went out a couple of years ago. the car has been losing power. I have spent around $4k on this car. I have replace sensors,everything the mechanics can think of. No one can find what is wrong with it. I love the car I bought it new and just wish someone could help me to get it fixed.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    What kind of mechanic have you been taking it to? Is it a volvo dealership? Or at least someone who specializes in volvos?
    One common problem is vacuum hoses going bad. On a turbo, this is absolutely crucial. If you still have your original vacuum lines, you may want to look into replacing those. There are entire replacement aftermarket kits you can purchase for not alot of $$ (~$200, if I recall correctly).

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I have been taken it mostly to the Volvo dealership but I have taken it to volvo specialist as well. Is these vacuum hoses something that anyone could replace or does need to be done by a specialist and where can I get the hose other from volvo. I know volvo's would be very expensive
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    well, there is some info for you on Volvospeed.

    However, they say you should be getting a check engine light. ?

    IPD offers some cheap replacements.

    You also may want to check the hoses highlighted in this diagram. If a turbo hose becomes to soft, it can flex when driving, causing incorrect boost pressure.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • culigrillculigrill Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 S70 GLT SE with 65,000 miles on it, live in the Seattle area. Last week, I noticed that when I have the fan on (heat or a/c), the car does not keep a steady acceleration either with or without cruise control. It jerks and bucks like it's not getting enough gas, like a clogged fuel or air line, and only when the fan is running. The fan is not affected, such as slows and speeds up or cuts out, it is steady. Previous to this, the car sat for almost 3 weeks, being driven twice, each time for about a 3-mile drive. Does anyone have any thoughts as to why this might be happening? I'm thinking electrical in some way, due to the fact it's only when the fan is on. Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,424
    yeah, its got to be electrical. Why or how? I have NO clue. I can't see why the engine's spark would be connected to the fan's power in any way. Very strange indeed. I'd love to know what you find out.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • joshua9joshua9 Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 S-70, 122,000 miles. My wife was driving it approx 10 miles a day. The car would lose power sometimes, that is would not go over about 10 mph at times. Finally, it does that all of the time now. I replaced the fuel filter by the passenger side rear wheel yesterday. The car still does the same thing...press the accelerator to the floor...the engine will not rev over 2K. The dash lights & headlights flicker slightly. When the air is turned on the red brake light & the amber ABS light come momentarily and then go out. The car idles fine with no misses or backfires etc. Any ideas?

    Joshua9
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Could be the Mass Airflow Sensor or the Electronic Throttle Module.
    You need to take it to someone who can read the car's computer.
  • culigrillculigrill Posts: 3
    I have a service appointment this week. Thanks for giving me these two specific things to ask about. I will let you know what it ends up being.
  • joshua9joshua9 Posts: 2
    I appreciate the info. I have been down the sensor path before. I want to get this car ready to sell. It is a good car, but it is time to let it go. I will let you know what the problem is.

    Thank you, again.
  • culigrillculigrill Posts: 3
    Indeed it turns out to be the Electronic Throttle Module. Interestingly enough, Volvo does have a service campaign for this issue, which is resolved at any dealer free of charge. Thank you for your help!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Your welcome. ;)
  • hi all. my trusted '83 245 Turbo is on its last leg and am interested in buying a low-mileage S70. there doesn't seem to be a whole lot in the SF Bay Area but i did find one: an S70 AWD, Nautic Blue, 74,000 miles. Asking price: $8800. Comes with leather, CD/Cassette, Sunroof. No wood trims. haven't run a Carfax yet but seller says he bought it in Berkeley, CA. here's what he says about the car:

    *Always had it service at dealer
    *had the computer replaced in Oct- paid $1400 (would that be the ETC?)
    *thermostat was replaced
    *timing belt changed a few years ago
    *Replaced with new Firestone tires
    *never in accident but has minor dings and scrapes

    will be test driving it soon. price seems high. not sure how low to negotiate to. Edmunds TMV is $7200.

    after reading the first 30 pages of this thread, i've noticed many have had problems with ETC, among other things. and some have advised against '98-99 models. anything to be worried about this model?

    i will use it primarily for commuting to work (20 miles daily) and local trips. doubt i'll ever drive it to snowy Tahoe, so AWD isn't a necessity, but will come in handy during bad rainy season i guess.

    i will definitely have it inspected at mechanics and look at service records but not sure what to look for and what questions to ask, since i've never bought a car before, esp. used. any advice is greatly appreciated!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    I would have a Volvo dealer or qualifed Volvo independent shop do a buyers inspection.
    There is nothing inherently wrong w/ the 99 S70.
    Make sure the service records are up to date
  • 1) Two week ago, engine starting running really rough while driving and while idling, this was after running errands for an hour or so, with no problems. Seemed like it was going to stop dead any minute. Took it into the shop, they said it was a bad coil. Replaced it and also replaced all spark plugs.
    2) Drove off from the shop and within 3 miles, it started doing the same thing again.
    3) Took it back into the shop, one of the spark plugs was bad, replaced all of the spark plugs again (both times using Volvo spark plugs.)
    4) Drove fine for about 30 miles, started doing the same thing again.
    Instead of my favorite local volvo shop, this time took it to the dealer.
    5) Dealer is saying diagnostics show misfires on all 5 coils, plus oil leaking on the timing belt and another oil leak on the rear cam.
    I understand that once a coil goes bad, it is not long thereafter that the others will go, very pricey to replace, however, I just had one of the coils replaced, why would there be 5 misfires should only be four at this point. Also, would the oil leak on the timing belt cause the feeling of the misfiring... (which I am not sure about either, as there is no oil drips under the vehicle, when parked or idling)

    I have no idea what I should fix and what is not necessary. I have already put in some big bucks to get this far, with no change in the engine at all.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Sign In or Register to comment.