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Mitsubishi Galant



  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    It has a sunroof and comfortable cloth power or leather. We just got home and opened the sunroof while getting ice cream. What a blast. I know one thing now...I'm definitely ready for a new ride!!!!

    The Sandman :)
  • pschoopschoo Posts: 2
    Does anyone know how to program a key fob for a 2003 Galant 2.4L? Can't understand why this is such a secret. Is it THE MAN trying to keep us paying or what. Also are there any recommendations for timing belt replacement for the 2.4L? :)
    I own a 1998 and a 2003 Galant and love them both. Hard to beat for the money. I love it when people say the Camry and Accord have higher resale. They should you paid more for them in the first place. The percent of depreciation is pretty constant on all the cars.
  • usaysousayso Posts: 25
    For those that appreciate the newest technologys like standard side curtain airbags, traction control, mp3 inputs, etc only new will do. These safety enhancements weren't available 4 years ago on standard autos only luxury vehicles. And this has been the case about new vs used for the last 20 years. The once optional technology is now standard as in air, power windows, cruise control and remote locks....

    Now the best way to beat depreciation on the new vehicle is buy low. If you buy the new car that's on sale, the loss leader you will usually not only get the best deal, you also get the fastest haggle free service as well. Buy the price leader! Search vehicles which have rebates available. Last year's vehicle still on the lot really can have large rebates and if you currently own the same brand many manufacturers have loyalty rebates as well. Example... An '04 Mitsu Galant LS V6 ($22,000) bought last January '05 had $6,000 of rebates plus another deep discount (under invoice and hold backs!) for being last years model. AND it came with FREE maintainance for 44 months plus a 10 year powertrain, 5 year bumper to bumper warranty. Sold for $13,999.... Try that with a current V6 model Accord or Camry, won't happen.

    Kelly Blue book will provide you with "trade in" (realistic) values 4 years hence. An '05 V6 Accord $24,500 MSRP would likely sell for $23,700. A 2001 Accord LS V6 model would be worth $9,060 Trade-in. Accord depreciated $14,640..... The '04 Galant LS V6 ($13,999 after rebates) would be worth $8,450. The '04 Galant depreciated $5,550. You save $9,085! Does buying new make more sense now. See how distressed inventory can work to your advantage. Buy Low, sell lower!

    And here's how you do it. Arrive early Saturday at the dealership while the salesmen are in their meeting. Find the leader car in the lot, check the VIN. Make sure it's the one listed in the paper. Decide if you can live with the color. Remember it's the interior color that you will REALLY be living with. Also keep in mind a secondary car on the lot as well in case negotiations stall. Tell the salesmanager ( you'll meet him or his assistant as the salesmen are still in that meeting) that you're not, NOT in love with the car and can take it or leave it. That there's another nice price leader you can land on in his same lot or at another dealer all together. This is important to have an alternative choice. You'll be rushed through the process and home with the latest technology by 10:30AM. First sale of the day is win win. You get treated like gold because your first, the salesfolks get a chance to make 2 more sales that day and win whatever contest the managers have on to reward high sales for the day. Ah new car smell and the latest gadgets and lowest depreciation. Now who's laughing. Folks will wonder why you're smiling....

    Happy Motoring!
  • yummyyummy Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 galant. I have had issues with stalling over the last six months. When I took it to the shop, they said I needed my fuel injectors flushed. I had this done and it was fine for about 2 months. It started hesitating again, but when I took it back to the shop, it was fine. They suggested bad gas, so I now use Exxon only. 2 months later, I am having the same issue. When the car is in idle, it hesitates as if it wants to cut off. The shop suggested using a gas treatment. I have done that, but it still wants to cut off. No one seems to know what the problem is. Any suggestions?
  • scottindfwscottindfw Posts: 4
    GalantFantatic -

    I'm glad to hear you're still enjoying your Galant. I still like mine too. I've seen lots of nice new cars on the road, but I haven't yet had that "I wish I had bought that instead..." feeling that I've had with other car purchases.

    I too get my oil changed every 3K miles, but my dealership does the 'Tires for Life' program and I have to get my oil changed every 3K miles and have my tires rotated & balanced every other oil change to qualify. Although I get annoyed when the service advisor tries to sell me an expensive "This is what we recommend..." package that goes well above and beyond what the manual states.

    I had some very minor issues at first with the front seat. My previous car (Chrysler Sebring) had excellent lumbar support, but once I made some adjustments to the seats, I was able to get more comfortable behind the wheel.

    I have not had the groaning experience, but we live in an apartment and I don't usually have to park on incline. I'll pay closer attention next time I find myself in that situation. I can play CD-Rs on my stereo without any problems (we buy the Sony CD-R audio discs), but I have encountered a rather odd issue with my stereo. I have to turn the volume up louder than I used to, and I really don't think I've suddenly developed any hearing issues.

    Happy driving and enjoy your weekend!
  • pschoopschoo Posts: 2
    Ask them to check the EGR valve next time. It could cause the problem and it's not something they look or think about at very often.
  • mirde98mirde98 Posts: 95
    Just 1 thing i will say....I WILL buy one!
  • If I could afford it I would buy one as well. I'm gonna try to get the dealer to let me test one when they get them. I have to know!

    I need to go to the Mitsubishi web site and see if they have it up there. Any other color choice?
  • Nice to hear that your purchase is doing so well for you. I'm driven to thrill when behind the wheel.
  • mahirimahiri Posts: 26
    I am debating between a 2003 Galant with 75K and a 2000 Galand with 52K. The cars have all of the same possible options. Any thoughts on which one to go with?
  • elgatolocoelgatoloco Posts: 92
    I saw one on the line a few months ago that was the sunset pearlescence color, same as the Eclipse. Ayyyy caramba!
  • I found this car I'm thinking about buying. It's a 99 with 156k. Does anyone know how well they do with this kind of mileage? I test drove it and everything seems fine. Any comments or suggestions before I buy?
  • matsi13matsi13 Posts: 1
    i need a special tool to get the oil pump cover off of a 1995 galant s 2.4 single overhead cam. it is a type of socket. i've tried the dealerships in my area and they say they cant help. none of the tool trucks have it. it is a specific mitsubishi tool. if you know any info... please email me directly and let me know. :confuse:
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Actually, if someone can help you they will post the answer here instead of emailing you. That way the information will be available to the entire community, both now and in the future.

    I hope we can help.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    Sorry for the late response, but my 99 Galant LS V6 has 115K miles and has been quite reliable. Not perfect; I've got some metal that's vibrating around 1600RPMs when the engine is cold (probably a bent heat shield) but otherwise everything in the car is in fine shape. No cracks in the leather, everything works from the AC to the stereo to the sunroof. A couple of door dings and a tiny amount of chipped paint in the hood from rocks are the only blemishes on the outside.

    I come here and read about the latest cars and while I want one, I can't justify taking on a payment when my Galant just works day in and out.

    Oh, I average about 24-25MPG in mostly city driving from the V6. Normal highway is 26-27, but I just did a pure highway tank at 29MPG.
  • Yeah i just recently bought a 200 mitsubihi galant and i really want to do some work on this baby. I need one of you car geniuses to tell me where to start. Thanks
  • ris10ris10 Posts: 2
    My left front light went out and I took it to Advance Auto Parts, bought the light, opened the hood and saw the same problem. The clerk there came out with tools in hand and replaced the light for me. Using a pair of pliers, he removed the lighting housing by hand, then unscrewed the wiring that attaches to the lighting. After completion, all was okay until about a month later with the light went out again. This time I decided to do it myself, until I wiggled the wiring and the light came back on. I got a pair of pliers, tightened the nut holding all in place and all has been fine since. My answer to you is to take it to one of the national auto supply parts stores in your city, many will loan tools or actually assist you in replacing simple parts like this.
  • ris10ris10 Posts: 2
    I bought my 2002 Galant LS in September of last year from my nephew's wife, who had used it to travel 300 miles round trip once a week to drive to school on Monday and return home on Friday. It had 67,000 miles on it. Since then I average about 6000 miles per month using it as a business vehicle. Right now the odometer is on 124,210. This model, while designated the LS on the trunk, actually has the 2.4 ltr engine, and is loaded, sunroof, airbags, premium sound, etc. I've been very surprised at the durability of this car, with few exceptions. It averages about 28 miles per gallon on regular fuel, slightly better on premium, even in this hot Texas weather with the air conditioning running full time. PROBLEMS: Right headlight "burned out", had the local Advance auto store replace it for me (I couldn't figure it out, duh); after that the light stopped working after 1 month but I determined it was loose wiring, I jiggled and shoved the wiring in to the housing and no problems since. AIR CONDITIONING/HEATING. I get an occassional problem with the heating control: does not function. No problem here in summer, but back in Jan thru Mar I could not get the heat on. Datyimes it was hot, so I ran the AC, but mornings then were nippy, so I wanted heat. But turning from Cold to Hot did not work. Try as I might, rotating the knob back and foth, it did not work. Then by accident, I discovered a fix. I had pulled in to a convenience store to get coffee and when I came back out, I restarted the car, this time rotating the knob slowly and WALLAH! IT WORKED. Since then when I have this problem I do the following: pull over and stop the car, turn off the ignition and wait about 2 minutes, then restart the car. Then I rotate the heat knob back to cold and then slowly back to hot. You will actually hear a fast clicking noise as the gate inside the mechinism opens. No problem after that. ONE OTHER PROBLEM I HAVE...the check engine light stays on. Shortly after buying the car, I took it to my Ford Mitsubishi dealer and he said it was a tranmission warning light but he would not know for sure until he opened it up, meaning $$$$$ later. I took it over to AAMCO transmission for a second opinion and he told me the light read TORQUE converter. He put it on his computer, and said the converter was operating within acceptable limits and that the message had a history of coming on. He said unless I wanted to spend the money or unless I noticed a decernible problem, to ignore the light if it came back on. Well, it did, that afternoon. BUT....that's been 9 months ago. The light is on all the time, but the car runs great, performs very well and like I said, gets great gas milege. About the only other problem, the remote key fob broke in half, I didn't have another spare and I only have one key to the car. I have since found out that another key will cost me $140.00 and another remote entry unit $100.00. As for the remote entry, I can get an aftermarket system with two units for about the same money, but I have not yet bought another ignition key. Overall, I love the car for milege. But with my 6'4" frame, I still love my Dodge 1500 quad cab betteer. If only it got better than 12 miles per gallon........
  • suncolonysuncolony Posts: 2
    Folks, here's my dilemma. My car was running wonderfully. I have a 2002 Galant ES that I bought used in 2003 with under 35k miles. The only problem I've ever had with it is a sticky starter. I've always taken care to keep up on my maintenance obviously to prevent problems. So, yesterday I brought my car to a shop to get the timing belt changed. It was still the original belt and I had reached 82.5k miles on the car (in previous maintenance checks i was told i could probably go to 90k on the timing belt).
    I asked them to let me know what else needed to be replaced since I had not needed to replace anything on my car since buying except for my brakes. In addition to the wheel rotation, alignment, oil and air filter change, they suggested taking care of the water pump, the balance belt, upper and lower radiator hose and two serpentine belts. I suppose some of these belt changes go hand in hand with a timing belt change. I feel like i can trust these guys and they charge a fair price for work done. What do you think? They said putting back in the old pump may create problems because once it's taken out of the car to replace the belts it may not fit snuggly back in. As for hoses they just said they were getting old.
    Well I went ahead with it because I didn't want anything to happen to my car. But of course, after the repairs my car now has problems that I've never had before. My engine sounds a little deeper and louder than I'm used to. And now it shakes and trembles a little when I drive and a lot when I sit idle. In the past 30 hours I must have stalled out 7 or 8 times. I hear a squealing sound now when I press the gas (not every time though). I brought it back to the autoshop this morning and they said that they should have warned me but when this type of work is done they had to cut the power which reset the 'computer' (i assume they are refering to the OBD since all my warning lights come on when i stall). I this normal? They said it would take a while for the computer to relearn how to accelerate and sit idle which is why my car is stalling out and trembling. As for the squealing and the louder engine they didn't think there was anything wrong. If this is "normal" how long do i have until my car runs like it used to? :cry:
  • sky23213sky23213 Posts: 296
    Regarding the previous posts requesting info and opinion on the older Galants: mine is a 2001 ES, now with close to 107K. I consider it a good example of how a car is as good as the maintenance done. Car still runs and rides nice, and as far as repairs, I think for all that time and mileage I've spent on repairs no more than 1K, including around 500 on replacing inner tie-rods just recently. I'm pretty happy with the car, hope it will last another few years with the mileage we put on it. Will continue to maintain it well and would not be surprised if it takes me past 150K.
    Re: suncolony's post. Although the dealers charge more and try to push repairs the car does not really need, I tend to use them for major services like timing belt replacement, since their staff have more experience working on your type of car, so chances for a screw up are smaller. I think the shop that worked on your car messed up something, not necessarily with the timing belt. From what I've heard if the replacement is not done right the car would not run at all, but I'm not sure. For sure it should not stall, and I think they are trying to sneak out of correcting whatever they did. New belts will stretch and squeal after a few months, which is corrected by a simple adjustment under $80. (Somewhere earlier on this thread I think I shared that in detail). I replaced my timing belt at 60K, I think did other belts too along with that, but they were pretty cheap, so I'm not sure, but recently was told they look great, so I probably did. I did not replace the water pump at that time, but the common opinion is that it's not a bad idea to do it when you replace the belt since there's no extra labor to be charged (they're taking it out anyway). I plan to do that at 120K.
    Hope this helps. Let us know. I'd be happy to go into more details.
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