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Mitsubishi Galant

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  • i've got a 95 ls, bought it used and the churping noise sounds like valve tapping, idles fine, power is ok, but my power locks won't unlock, what's up w/ that? Please advise on the churping noise, i decided to wait til 100k for the timing belt , i live in VA so i figured the Cali rules don't apply to me , but i love this car and i don't wanna see it dead, the churping noise seems to be coming from, well i don't know...anybody w/ similar problems?
  • ultratechultratech Posts: 117
    Well dude, we won't argue about the galant being a perfect car .. It does have it's little problems (lucky for me, i got none) .. but then , you have to make a decision about how those little things may impact you ..

    For example : is the extra $3000 for a bland looking car that everyone and their dog drives worth the little less discomfort that you may (if unlucky) encounter on the Galant?

    Les say the accord : My cousin and I bought our cars the same week .. his 00 accord already developped rattles , mines hasn't. But my other cousin 98 accord haven't had any problems since he got it 3 yrs ago.

    My other cousin Camry has also proved to be a really good car ..

    The Galant has to prove itself over long time before it can develop trust...

    Like I said before the best way is to visit all the forums of cars you have in mind, and you'll see that on any single car, there will always be a complain ...

    bottom line: save yourself the extra $3000
  • I recently bought a '99 Galant ES. Three reasons why I bought it, speed, speed and speed. The way it accelerates and it's smoothness, in my opinion, outperforms it's competitors. Camrys, Accords, Civics, etc... are all good cars but they're so boring! Everyone and their cousin drives one. I wanted to drive something different on the road and I though a Galant was different. I've read lots of positive feedback about the car and few negatives. But when I tell people I bought a Mitsubishi, they say " A Mitsubishi, why did you buy a Mitsubishi?!!". I've heard though that Mitsu had problems with their previous galant models but they improved their 1999 and 2000. I hope I made the right choice in terms of dependability and quality (?)
  • OK. I did my homework here on Edmunds & went to buy a GTZ last weekend (Let me say that I have used Edmunds before so I trust their advice). Walked on the lot and a salesman said they were selling GTZs $100 above invoice. Armed with knowledge I was excited about getting a deal close to the TMV. When I set down to talk numbers they stated "Oh, $100 over dealer's invoice" (base invoice+Dest charge+2.8% advertisement fee) and they didn't want to sell the car any lower. I could agree with everything but the 2.8% (Edmunds says 1% or $200). They said 2.8% was mandated by Mitsubishi. By the way, they showed me holdback of over $400 (Edmunds says no holdback for GTZs). Taking all this into account I negotiated a fair price, but what was the dealer really doing? Anyone run into 2.8% advertising on GTZs before?
  • vpitvpit Posts: 1
    I have '94 galant Es which has about 76K miles on it. I bought it when it had 72k on it. I was a bit paranoid about the vehicle since it was a used one. But the vehicle has been really great so far, except that the "check engine" light came up a couple of times while the vehicle was on the move. I don't know what the problem is..but it goes off after I slow down or stop the car and start it again. I saw a few similar complaints (#324 and #329). Has anybody else seen the same problem and if so, do you know what the problem is due to??
  • Does Anyone know if there is a Strut Tower Brace/Bar available for the 99 Galant?
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    The one from the 99/00 Eclipse GT will fit on the 99 Galant. I have one for my GTZ
  • Did it make any difference?
  • ultratechultratech Posts: 117
    I've seen some guy selling strut bar for the galant on ebay for like $34-38 bucks.
  • id had a 93 galant and i was looking for a 2000. went to mitsu to look at the galant, took it for a ride felt crampt and bumpy, went to nissan took the altima for a ride and felt like there was more leg, shoulder, hip, head room and the 16" wheels made the car ride smoother and handle better, and the interior has velor seats as the galant has cloth. and never have to worry about changing the timming belt because the altima has a timming chain.
    Dont what to bust anyones bubble IMO opion the altima is a better, more polished car that love to go fast.
    TTFN
  • boston14boston14 Posts: 111
    I have a 2000 ES and today I got a 91 Camry LE V6 loaded with the work with only 53,000 org miles and mint conditon for 7200. It was one of those owners who like me gets really picky about everything about their cars. I hope when my Galant gets up in miles and yrs I could sell it at a decent price.
  • 4u24u2 Posts: 17
    silverride, I'm glad that you're happy with the Altima, and made the right purchase decision for you. Unfortunately, you may have wanted to consider safety in your comparison. The Galant is much safer than the Altima.

    I went to the Nissan dealership to look at the Altima, but it felt and looked tinny. Perhaps, that's the reason for its marginal safety ratings.
    Additionally, I have side-impact airbags on my Galant.

    I am unsure of your criticism of the Galant's handling and ride. Many auto journalists from leading auto publications (Car and Driver and Consumer Guide) have applauded the Galant for these exact characteristics.

    Also, the Altima is not as fast as my ES V6. This engine is also much smoother than the coarse 4 banger in the Altima. The 4 cylinder Galant that I test drove was very smooth.

    The Galant offers 16" tires, as well. Perhaps, you test drove models that didn't offer the 16" tires.

    The past body style of the Altima was decent. But the current design of the Altima is worst than the blandmobiles from Toyota (Camry) and Honda (Accord).

    The Galant is hard to beat.
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    i purchsed mine's from don herring mitsu in texas thru the mail. it was about $50 or so. The car doesn't roll as much when you take a corner fast. I'm personally glad I got it. I think their website is www.donherring.com
  • Hate to burst anybody's bubble, but have you people seen these...

    http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/news/messages/878.html

    http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/editorial/features/mitsubishi/index.html

    I've driven the Galant at Edmunds Live and thought the car was a great performer, great alternative to Camry and Accord, and the styling is much better than Camry and Accord. But now I'm wary of Galant and Mitsubishi.
  • purp3purp3 Posts: 24
    Funny how not many people in this forum have talked about the brake problems on their 99 Galants! I love my car and would recommend it to anyone that is looking for one in its class! I think it beats Toyota, Honda, and Nissan by far!
  • Earlier this year I wrecked my '90 Gallant with 183,000 miles on the odometer. It was the finest car I have ever owned. My wife is still driving a Mitsubishi LRV with 130,000+ miles, also a wonderful car. However, (just my opinion) any perspective Mitsubishi buyer should be aware of two substantial and long standing flaws in these vehicles. The go through brakes faster than any car I have ever seen. My own experiences have not been much unlike those cited in post 424 above. After performing brake job after brake job, on two occasions I replaced every part of the front brake system, which generally bought me a bit more time before another trip to the shop. Also, the automatic transmissions keep transmission shops in business. My Gallant went through two and my wife's LRV is on tranny number two which is weak again) right now. I strongly recommend that anyone who purchases a Mitsubishi product with an automatic transmission immediately install an oil cooler and change the transmission fluid every 25,000 miles. I don't know what to suggest could be done about the brakes. Oddly enough, having said all this I looked an new Gallants today. From extensive research on and off the web I am absolutely certain that either the Camry or Accord is, maintenance wise, a much better car but they are unfortunately BUTT-ugly.
  • Unfortunately, we live in an imperfect world.
  • What Aftermarket Sport shocks are available for the >1999 Galants?
  • I'm new to posting but have been studying the various messages for a while now. I'm buying my first new car and it's been agonizing. I like the looks of the Galant and the fact that it's not an accord or camry. The reason for my post is that these messages about the brakes and the often-replaced auto transmissions have me a bit leary about reliability. Sobright1 -- when did you need the 1st and subsequent transmis. & how often did you need new brakes? Knowing I might have this car for a while, I'd like to get an idea of what kind of maintenance I might be looking at in the next 3-5 years.
  • One thing you need to consider about all message boards, you are going to always hear more bad than good. People like to voice their concerns more than their good experiences. It's just human nature, I'm guilty of the same thing. I'm going on 5500 miles on my 2000 Galant. I have absolutely zero complaints about the car so far. I love it! IMO, I got the best car for the money I spent.
  • Let me be clear, I was not attempting to voice "more bad than good" in my previous post. I cannot emphasize enough how much I loved and enjoyed my '90 Galant. I have gleaned much information from these forums and I just wanted to help pass on knowledge that might help other owners or potential owners make an informed decision and avoid potential problems. Having owned nothing but Ford products in the 20 years prior to purchasing my Galant, the Mittsubishi was hands down a much better automobile in virtually every aspect. By the way, I traded in a one owner Grand Marquis with only 60k miles on my Galant. However, bringing up potential brake problems, those same types of problems which were apparently covered up for years by Mitsubishi, is only being truthful based upon my own experience and, from all I have read, based upon the experience of many others. Regarding the transmission, I should have listened to my mechanic when the car was new and he recommended that the tranny fluid be changed often. Looking back, I consider this advise a vailed attempt to warn me of the weakness of the transmission. To answer your question regarding the transmission failures. My first rebuild was at @110k miles when the slippage got so bad that I could not get the car out of my own garage, the next was @140K when the torque converter went bad causing an odd shimmy (it would shake every 1/4 miles and only in overdrive. Before I figured out the problem I had replaced two rims attempting to solve the problem). Both times, the transmission began to malfunction perhaps 10K miles before the rebuild and both times I was able to buy more time by changing fluid. - Let me emphasize again, I learned something from my mistakes. Never tow anything, no matter how light in overdrive (I have a small john boat that I occasionally towed with my Galant). Spend the $50 to $100 dollars on a transmission cooler and change the fluid/filter often. I believe that, had I done these things, my original transmission would have lasted longer. For the record, I also needed a new starter at @120K, a new motor mount at @130K, and a new computer at @180K. The interior trim on the driver's headliner was also a poor fit and, though was replaced twice by the dealer under warranty, never fit correctly and kept falling down. The passenger side window was also very slow.

    By the way, the transmission on my wife's LRV first malfunctioned at @105K miles. The first problem occurred while on a trip and while attempting to accelerate up to speed getting on the expressway. Suddenly the engine reved and the transmission disengaged. The splines inside the torque converter completely stripped out. We had to be towed and repaired on the road. By 125K miles the same problem occurred again this time requiring a complete rebuild. Right now this vehicle needs another brake job, AGAIN! Other than these two problems, the LRV has been wonderful. It has the all practicality of the PT Cruiser only with more room, with a better engine, but sadly without the style. Despite the problems, if they still made them I would buy another LRV tomorrow.

    What was good about my Galant: Luxurious, comfortable, quiet, roomy, and long wearing interior, easier egress than many larger cars, cup holders/controls perfectly located, smooth ride, 26 mpg everywhere, excellent cruise control, dependable - though not necessarily overly powerful - air conditioning, lumbar support, relatively powerful and dependable engine, better looking than the competition, and a trustworthy and skilled service department at my local dealer. If the still made them in red there would already be one in my driveway problems and all.
  • Man, sorry to hear about your experieces. The theme is common though, brakes, transmission, and a few other various parts. It appears that Mistubishi let quality slip throughout the 90's (reliability charts in Consumer's Report magazine bear this out). Perhaps the newer models will reverse this trend. For what it is worth, I have yet to see a rebuilt transmission that had the reliability of the original and it is really tough around here (near Memphis) to find a transmission shop that really knows what he is doing. However, I think that the dealer is nailing you on their repairs. I have never paid more than $1200 for a transmission rebuild, nor have I paid more than $200 for a brake job unless I replaced the rotors and calipers (which I typically did myself). Run from that dealer and find an independent shop. I also may have some insight into some of the problems with the brakes. Apparently brakes on some other makes are failing prematurely too. For example, if you visit the Nissan Maxima forum you will see similar complaints on the new models. Apparently many of the problems stem from the repair shops or dealers using an air wrench to tighten the lug nuts (common in the industry since the early 60's)instead of a torque wrench. The lug nuts not only hold the wheel on but also secure the rotor as well. Apparently, not tightening these lugs in a star pattern or applying too much pressure to one side before tightening the other plays a large part in these failures. Now for the hard part, unless you do all repairs yourself, can you imagine the look you are going to get from the tire installer at lets say Sam's, COSTCO, NTW, etc. when you request the use of a torque wrench instead of an air gun given that customers are typically lined up for service? Typically when I go to these types of places for alignment or new tires I feel good if the nuts are not cross threaded.
  • Dude, those prices you're paying for repair are kind of high, unless you're using OEM parts and fixing it at the dealership .. this is what I pay around for most of my family's car around here in Independent Shops using Aftermarket stuff.
    -Timing belt, water pump, and hoses around it : $260
    -Brake pads (front) and turning rotors: $60
    -Change the rotors (front): $90
    -Computer in the transmition : $400
    -Head gaskets and rebuilt of head: $650 , or $800 for ORM parts.
    -Radiator: $250
    -front Axles: $120
  • Thanks for the advice on the brakes - I'll avoid air wrenches. As far as the repairs, I had all of them done at Mitsubishi Service Centers all over the US (I'm a military officer). So my repair record may serve as somewhat of a sample of Mitsubishi service prices in Pennsylvania, New York, Washington and Virginia. I thought Mitsubishi service centers, although more expensive, had more credibility and could be trusted to do more reliable work, especially since they work exclusively on Mitsubishis. By the way, the 2nd transmission was not rebuilt - it was brand new, straight from the factory, and it too just failed after only 39,000 miles!
  • I fully understand the military lifestyle as my father is a retired Navy chief of 30 years. Luckily, most of the time he as either stationed near Memphis or at sea so my family managed to, for the most part, stay put. Regarding the transmission, I considered a new transmission when mine failed but was advised at the dealer that NEW transmissions were not available and that any transmission I might order would be a "factory" rebuilt model. Either way, I share your frustration. Rather than continue to belabor the topic (I guess we have made our point) I am going to move on to another forum (probably Toyota Avalon, Nissan Maxima, or Hyundai GX300). I might add that I do so after a test drive of a new Galant (4 and 6) yesterday. In my opinion, they just aint what they use to be. I do wish all of those happy Galant owners the best of luck though.
  • I am very close to buying a car, and before I read all this discussion, the 2001 Galant GTZ was at the top of my list. But now I am having second thoughts. I am looking for a little information on reliability.

    For those of you that have had the new model galant (post 1999), can you give me your thoughts now about the good, the bad, and the ugly (I already know about the nasty wood trim).

    If you were to do it again, would you reconsider?

    Thanks.
  • marcinmarcin Posts: 64
    I would buy it again!
    Yes, I have some minor issues but EVERY car does. And at least I have a car with spankin' personality, not a lame looking Camcord :)
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    I brought a'99 GTZ so far no problem. This yr my wife just got herself a '00 GTZ-no problems with that one either.
  • js28js28 Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2000 ES Galant last October 1999, and now it's November 2000 and it has over 13,000 miles on it (thru heavy New York City traffic; snow; potholes; and some plain-old open road country driving). Suffice to say, it still looks and feels like a NEW car to me. If you want to go to the repair shop, buy another car, 'cause the Galant is worry-free driving. It even got hit from behind by a Ford Aerostar Minivan not more than 3 weeks after I bought it and, aside from a few very minor scratches below the bumper, no damage was done and I felt like someone had just tapped me lightly on the shoulder. Besides, I've gotten nothing but compliments on it from my family and friends who have driven with me in it. And though I can't say how it will perform in 5 years (I have a 3-year lease), I can say that it is safe, easy to drive, handles well, and looks a lot sportier than the other comparable midsize cars I've checked out at the dealerships.
    Hope this helps if you are considering a smooth-to-drive car, with nice safety features, and don't want to spend more for the higher-end luxury cars.
  • If you bother to scroll back like 200 posts or so, you should have an idea... Lots of complains as well as lots of compliments.. BUT remember if you car works perfect, you won't even bother to come to tell us about it... the only time you may come is when you develop some complain ...
    so for every complain, I'm sure there is 1000 compliments .. It's like car accidents on the freeway .. You will never hear on the radio about Cars running SMOOTH !!! only when cars break down !!

    btw, I bought my ES last Nov 99 , 4000 miles so far...

    If you really want proven realiability, go get a camry or accord that every one and their dog drives.
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