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2005 Ranger misfire codes

bigd11775bigd11775 Posts: 4
edited October 24 in Ford
I have an 05 ranger w/ the 3.0L engine. It started running rough at idle but fine above 1500rpms(or at least I can't feel the miss anymore). I then replaced air filter, plugs, wires, and fuel filter about 4 months ago. It got a little better but the CEL is constantly back on now and the idle is getting worse. Here are the codes I pulled prior to clearing them; P0300-Random/Multiple misfire, P0304-Cyl 4 misfire, P0305-Cyl 5 misfire, and P0316-Misfire Detected 1st 1000 Revs. I have had these codes read by Autozone, Advanced Auto, and now my own scanner. Now I erased those codes and restarted the truck with no CEL showing. About 10 secs the CEL came back on flashing with only one code at first which was the P0305. Now comparing to other forum entries on this same issue, I do not have white or black exhaust smoke. I have tested wires and plugs again...nothing. I have also bought a multimeter and tested my coil pack. Cylinders 1&5, 2&6, 3&4 are paired together on each coil section. For 1&5 and 2&6 I got exactly 11.35k, but I got 11.21k on the back coil with 3&4 on it. A few minutes later I got 11.21k on both the fronts and 10.99k on the back one. I know that each coil is supposed to be between 8.5 and 14.5, so they are in range. But the one being different throws me off. Can anyone make any sense of this. I don't want to just throw money at parts until I get lucky. Thanks.

Comments

  • atheeathee Posts: 5
    Well, I've finally found someone else with the same problems. I have an 06 Ranger STX 3.0. I have changed everything form plugs, wires, coil packs, catylitic converter, and fuel filters. Had the valves replaced TWO times, heads re-worked TWO Times. I am so frustrated I am beside myself. My local Ford Dealer charged me 1200.00 the first time around, warrantied it the second time, and in the morning I am going back for the third time. Truck runs great, but after it runs for awhile and I let it idle the engine light comes on, starts running rough, then the light starts flashing. The last trip to the Ford Dealer was two days ago. The "code" showed I had a faulty Cat Converter. and quoted 1400 for a new one. I went to a salvage yard and got one for 300.00. Ran great for a day, then started the same crap again. I use my truck as a pilot car and do regular maintenance religiously. At 95,000 I started having the first problems and they did the major repair. This was after I had done all the other things. At 155,000 the same thing happened again. I guess they felt bad or something because they said they would do that under warranty from the first repair. Anyway they repaired again, I drove it 12,300 more miles and I have the same problem again. The latest code is misfire on cylinder 1, which is one of the many codes I have gotten in the past. The only thing I haven't done to this point is change the MAF sensor or any of the O2 sensors. I haven't gotten the codes for any of these but I posted on another forum and that was some of the suggestions. The Ford guy told me to bring it in first thing and they would "do what is right". I just want and need my damn trucked FIXED! I do feel your pain though!
  • atheeathee Posts: 5
    I forgot to mention my fuel injectors have been replaced two times. I'll let you know the latest tomorrow.
  • Yeah thanks for the info.....My next step was to replace the coil pack then the injectors. Funny thing though, I bought my truck with 7 miles on it new. It actually did it the first time within the first 25k miles. I just pulled the battery for 5 min and it went away for about a year. Did the same thing the 2nd time it happened and it disappeared again. However it started running rough at about 70k and I did the plugs and wires around 75k. I'm currently at 85k after everything and a truck that almost dies when I come to a stop! Not a very good start from Ford for me. I've been a Chevy guy all my life and it looks it was for a reason. So we'll see....and I'll look forward to see what the dealer comes up with this time for you. Good Luck
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I would try cleaning the MAF sensor. Since you both are down to 'trying things'.

    Be careful. Use electrical cleaner, not carb cleaner. Don't break those little wires.

    The guy with 185,000 miles - I don't know, maybe the truck is just 'worn out'. Check the compression on all the cylinders? Maybe some are low on compression and are missing???? Check the fuel pressure? If the pressure is low, but not so low it quits running, it might cause mis-fires.

    It sounds like both of you have changed the electrical stuff, or are going to (coil packs).
  • One of the first things I did was change air filter, pull MaF, and inspect the Throttle Body......all spotless. But wouldn't a low fuel pressure cause a lean mixture thus white exhaust smoke? And wouldn't a misreading MaF throw a code?...And to anyone else reading these, Has anyone ever replaced the computer?
  • atheeathee Posts: 5
    Here's the latest. They had one of their "engineers" figure out that since everything else was good ie., compression, spark, air flow, mixture, etc. that I had a faulty Power Train Control Module that will only be $688.00, and it will take a week to get the part. I'm like you though, this will be my last Ford. Don't start spending money like I did to start; which, looking back, was all trial and error to replace things that didn't need replacing. Consider this, but I don't know how to check it. Hope this helps.
  • atheeathee Posts: 5
    According to a Ford "Engineer" that looked at my truck, I need a new Power Train Control Module. Everything else was thoroughly checked and tested. A mere $688.00 and a week for the part will get me back on the road. Anyway, consider this before you replace everything like injectors, plugs, coil packs, cat convertors, etc. I can't believe the money I've spent and still didn't get my problem fixed. I wished I would have kept all my old parts now.
  • Today I was leaving work and I left my key turned forward for about 5 sec before trying to crank the engine over. It took me about 30sec to get it started, and it didn't start until I hit the gas pedal. Now last week, I was driving for about 20 min and I stopped to get gas and it was running ok. As soon as I filled the tank up and started the truck, it ran like it was on 2 cyl for about a minute until I revved the engine in neutral a few times.....no power but again no smoke.
  • atheeathee Posts: 5
    I just wanted you to know I have just now gotten my truck correctly repaired. Turns out of all things I had a weak valve spring. All this other crap I went through and $3600.00 worth of parts and repairs, and I finally found someone who got it right. And it sure wasn't the Ford Dealership. I actually took it to two different ones and they couldn't get it right. I just got ripped off big time I guess, so now I am going to see what recourse I have on that end. Good luck, I hope you found your problem, and if not consider the valve spring(s)
  • I came across a thread earlier today stating the same symptoms I have with my engine. It involves replacing the o-ring on the IMT valve. However, I simply cannot find a picture or a good enough description to show me where the IMT valve is. It is a 2005 Ford Ranger 3.0L v6. Can anyone post a pic with an arrow for me or describe it for me? Also I noticed a small amount of burnt oil drips on top of the driver side valve cover. Not enough to drip down to the exhaust but enough to notice. I pulled the wire harness off and ran my hand all underneath the upper intake and felt nothing but dry dusty metal. Clueless to where it could be coming from. Any thoughts?
  • sandy79sandy79 Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 ford ranger. we just had the computer repaired and had the trigger switch changed and have checked all the fuses. it still will not fire. any suggestions
  • 47ford4747ford47 Posts: 1
    I have an '01 Ranger w/4.0 v6 that developed an engine misfire. I have done the following: plugs, 3 sets of plug wires, intake gaskets, fuel filter, cleaned MAF, cleaned idle air control valve, checked air filter, cleaned EGR (but still get codes PO401 and PO402 - excessive and too little gas flow in EGR), new coil pack. Miss starts after engine warms up and it is on a pull. Has anyone seen similar problems? Can anyone help?
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