Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Acura Legend

1232426282939

Comments

  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    If this was all done with the same mechanic, I would definitely be wary of throwing more money at more parts because he may just be playing guessing games. At least have it looked at by another mechanic, or if possible one who specializes in imports. Even a visit to the dealership may be in order if you get an accurate diagnosis to bring back to a trusted (and cheaper) mechanic.

    good luck
  • deadlegenddeadlegend Posts: 2
    I bought my 95 legend with 66K mi, a few hours after i bought it the temp gauge went off the chart! long story short, i had to replace the head gasket. that was about 3 years ago, and yesterday(@117,000mi) i got some bad news from my shop... blown head gasket & cracked radiator! this time i have no service contract and im scared dump the money into it just to go another 50k miles. does anyone have any advice? sell it? fix & keep? fix & sell? drop in river collect insurance? <-j/k lol. needless to say i love my car and would hate to give it up but im not rich and i dont want a money pit. :sick: one more thing, about 30k miles after my 1st head gasket ordeal i had to replace what may have been my stock radiator because it was cracked, could that radiator have damaged my new head gasket enough to make it blow 20k miles down the road? any input is greatly appreciated! :lemon:

    p.s. does anyone else's cigarette lighter and radio cut out every blue moon?
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Having to replace your head gasket every 50K miles is absurd. Then again if your radiator wasn't working and your car overheated even once without you knowing it (though I don't see how you would not know) that could certainly have been the culprit. I would keep the car if you otherwise love it, but be sure to have someone reputable go over all the other cooling system components when they do the head.

    good luck
  • kyfdx%40Edmundskyfdx%40Edmunds Posts: 25,851
    No matter what, you'll have to fix the car first.... It is worth nothing the way it sits....

    Driving a ten year old car can be expensive from a repair standpoint.. But, most ten year old cars are only worth a couple of thousand... When they get big repairs, they just junk them... Fortunately, or unfortunately, the Legend is a pretty nice car and probably worth 3-4 times that much.... After you get it fixed, you'll have to decide if it is worth it to keep driving it..

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • skyhawk10skyhawk10 Posts: 3
    Without any bought, your master cylinder needs replacement. The pedal falls to the floor because brake fluid is passing the activating piston. In the worst case it will fall to the floor on the first application of brakes. Remember to bleed the brakes after changing the master cylinder.
  • doccaseydoccasey Posts: 1
    Looking for 1989 acura ledgend passenger side front right head light high and low beam assemble.

    Have looked on ebay, nothing. Need a source or after market supplier.

    Nothing at my local import wrecking yards.

    Appreciate any help out there.

    Thanks

    doccasey
  • I googled "used auto parts" and saw some promising sites. Try it.
  • jweavjweav Posts: 4
    i have a 1995 acura legend w/ 160,000 miles on it. i recently bought the car from a friend and i really love my car... but only weeks after i bought it, it started overheating. :sick: at first it was only one time and then it didnt over heat for about a month &1/2 and then, again, i looked down just intime to see the temp. needle rise to one mark under red line hot. since this i became much more aware that there is a problem. i was low on coolant and realized that it would be low more often than it should be. this problem got progressively worse and this week my car has over heated several times so, i replaced the radiator cap, checked the thermostat, thought maybe i have a leak in the cooling system but now im thinking its something different. one thing ive knowtest is the coolant in my radiator doesnt have much circulation, it bubbles a little, but i dont see much flowing...im now thinking its the water pump. i also dont think it is the cooling fans because they work, but when my temp. is hot, it seems they dont come on when they should?!?i dont have any leaks in my radiator that i know of... and im pretty sure that its not a blown head gasket. if any one knows of or has any suggestions, i would appreciate it very much!
  • jweavjweav Posts: 4
    can any one tell me where the darn water pump is located...its not like a 1976 chevy pickup, thats the only water pump ive ever helped replace...
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    I believe the water pump is driven off the timing belt and the belt needs to be removed to get at it. This is why most people will replace the pump when they get a timing belt change (about every 90K or so) since the timing belt job is a bit of a chore, to say the least.

    As far as the overheating, this does seem to be the achilles heel for Legends. Too many people on here have gone crazy troubleshooting lazy and/or dead cooling fans. Most have either given up, replaced them, or rigged up a manual switch to turn them on and off. Checking into any cooling fan anomalies would probably be a prudent course of action in addition to checking the water pump. Good luck.
  • jweavjweav Posts: 4
    thank you very much for reading my messege. i have pondered the waterpump being my problem, but again i am thinking it is something else. i talked w/ a guy yesterday and he said something about a heat sending unit that goes to my electric fan... do you know if this unit was mal funcioning if my fan would still come on but not when my car is over heating? also i got to thinking, and the only time my car overheats is after driving the highway and then coming back into town... and it will not over heat when i sit and let it idle...if my waterpump was going out you would think the car would over heat everytime i started it...yes i am going crazy troubleshooting this problem... any input is very appreciated and thanks again for the reply.
  • jweavjweav Posts: 4
    denisem.....my car is a 95 legend w/ 160000 miles. my car is doing the same as yours. i also have replaced all of these things and checked all of these things. if you ask me we might want to drive our cars off a cliff :) just kidding :) anyways, my front fans are also not comming on, so i decided to replace the temp. sensor, well that didnt fix the problem, my fans still will not come on... it seems every time i think i know what the problem is, something happens to prove that theory wrong! i dont have an answer for your problem, but i really do feel for you. it seems the troubleshooting for this problem is enough to drive a person crazy! if you have figured out what is or was wrong w/ your acura legend, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!!! i would appreciate it very much.
  • blazablaza Posts: 1
    ok here i go ,
    i bought a 1989 acura legend coupe 2.7 v6. one owner garaged kept.
    all service was up to date except the t-belt was due.

    so i got my mechanic to replace t-belt, w-pump, valve cover & side cvr gskts.
    cost me $512.50.
    when i left the shop i noticed a vibration in steering wheel and the dash.starts about 35 mph and smooths out about 60 mph.
    did not have this problem before so i took the car back. the mechanic looked the car over and started it up ,put it in gear and power braked it in drive and reverse.

    he said that the frt & rear mounts were worn and needed to be replaced.he said they were causing the drive axle to bind. he also balanced the frt tires to be sure
    it wasent them.

    my question is- i know that the right front mount/strut/ has to be removed to access the t-belt frt. cover. and according to my manual it says that if any mounts are to be replaced the bolts on all mounts should be loosend for the engine to sit level.
    and they are to be retightened in a specific order. if not it can cause a vibration.
    the car does not vibrate in park or nuetral , it does vibrate worse on hills.

    is it possible that a bolt could have been left out of compressor or ps pump or atl brkt.or one of the sprockets miss aligned that the t-belt goes around,

    also the t-belt tensioner was ok so they did not replace it,

    so do they have to remove all gears and or sprockets to remove belt ,or just the waterpump.

    any way after reading your forum i ordered a new all metal radiator because of overheating problems with the plastic tanks.

    thanks for your reply, blaza
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    A leaking waterpump is going to cause your coolant to run low and your car to overheat all the time, regardless of highway runs in between or not. However, the pump will obviously leak more if you are on the higway, leave you low on coolant, and cause an overheat situation real fast. A failed waterpump can leave your coolant level the same but still give you an overheating problem.

    As for the sending unit, since you said you were losing coolant I would worry about that. Having the fans not come on at the right time is one thing, but it doesn't account for coolant loss. Having these constant overheats puts you in very real danger of causing some expensive headgasket damage, especially with these engines. Try to track down that coolant loss!

    good luck
  • jafo45jafo45 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a '94 GS sedan with 104,000. Service receipts show head gaskets and new radiator at 84,000. Timing belt and water pump at 92,000. I am becoming concerned as I see so many posts regarding blown head gaskets. I'm wondering what precautions, preventive maintenance, driving habits etc might I observe so as too avoid having to deal with this problem in the future ?
    By the way I love this car and pretty much everything about it. :confuse: I would hope to keep it for some time. Thanks MV
  • brainsellbrainsell Posts: 1
    I just bought my 91 legend from my younger brother , It needed a lot of work I replaced alot of things on the car along with my friend who is the head mechanic at a dealership around here. We found a lot of power when we cleaned the egr pipe it was packed solid with carbon. but I keep the a/c off because the compressor itself robs a lot of hp then again the weather here in ny is a little cooler, Also change the fuel filter that could also be restricting fuel flow.
  • leng05leng05 Posts: 2
    I bought a 1994 legent L last week. it is 89k miles, obviously , the t-belt needs replaced. I plan to replaced by myself, does anybody has the experience and give me some advices? and does the transmission needs flash at 90k? I check the tranny oil is very good.
  • ok, my head gasket has been replaced and my deadlegend is being put back together, i went by the shop to check up on things, and they where getting ready to put in the same plastic OEM radiator after i'd told them i want metal. they say they cant find one(i doubt they looked) and it's on me now to find one. can anybody point me to a gooooooood metal radiator for my 95 legend? please! any suggestions are very appreciated. :mad:
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    No offense meant but if you have a computer and access to google, you should be able to find damn near anything. I just typed "metal radiator acura legend" into google and up came a whole bunch of stuff, with the first or second hit being decent alternatives. If they can't find it, then they are idiots. If they didn't look, at least they are just liars.

    http://www.webradiator.com/autoparts/ACURA/LEGEND.html

    Good luck, hope your legend can get back on the road in good shape
  • legendarylegendary Posts: 1
    1. I also own a 1987 Legend with 177,000 miles which had these same problems.
    I had a chronic gas leak problem at about 125,000 until the car was undrivable.
    The root cause is a manufacturing defect in the fuel injectors, according to a friend who works for an Acura dealer.
    The solution is to replace ALL of the fuel injectors as each will leak eventually.
    The fuel injector problem affects the ignition system causing the car to run rich
    which damages the oxygen sensors over time.
    I recommend ordering Bosch oxygen sensors for this car for $50 over the web and have them installed, front & rear. They have a 50,000 mile lifespan.
    If you do this, the car will run like new. I expect another 50,000 miles and 3 years out of this vehicle.
Sign In or Register to comment.