Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Acura Legend

1242527293039

Comments

  • qujaqerqujaqer Posts: 3
    You wouldn't be talking about the steering wheel tilt and telescope controls would you? You can adjust it manuallt or set it to adjust automatically when you insert the ignition key. It's way cool!

    Gary B.
    '94 GS sedan
  • asum2000asum2000 Posts: 2
    the pump is located under the black plastic cover of the timing belt;also, there is a sensor at the bottom of the radiator by the outlet hose.
  • asum2000asum2000 Posts: 2
    ? do the fans come on at all? do they come on with the A/C? there is a senors at the bottom of the radiator by the outlet hose. go to this web site Delray automotive parts and this site will give picture/ location of every part.
  • What makes my 1992 Acura Legend L Coupe release heat and smoke from the reservoir?

    image

    Hi everyone, my name is Alex and I own 1992 Acura Legend L Coupe. At 160k I had timing belt and water pump replaced. At 192k I had radiator and thermostat replaced. On 05-10-05 my transmission stopped working, so I had the transmission replaced as well.

    Finally here is my car problem. When I picked it up, after the transmission was replaced, the mechanic told me that he had to add antifreeze to my reservoir, because it was low. So, I thanked him and left. With the new transmission it drove super nice, later in the evening I decided to drive to my girlfriend who is 109 miles away, as I drove for 20 min non-stop I noticed that my temp gauge is getting hotter and hotter till it started to rise all the way to the red line, so I pulled over to see what is wrong with the car.

    When I came to complete stop, I observer smoke coming out from the left front side, between left fender and left side of the hood. I opened the hood and I saw that there was smoke coming out of the reservoir, so I decide to open the reservoir to let the pressure & heat out. At this point I called my friend who is a mechanic and he did not know what is wrong, so he told me that my thermostat is not opening. I purchased a new thermostat from Acura dealership, after the thermostat was replaced, I noticed that nothing changed, after I drove the car it would still have smoke coming out of the reservoir.

    Only difference now is that, before I changed the thermostat, I would have heat periodically on and off, sometimes when the temp gauge would go up it would not produce heat, because I believe it had air in the system.

    Before I changed the old thermostat, I would notice the needle rise to 75% of the gauge and the heat would disappear, so if I would give it gas or put it in neutral and give gas, then the temp gauge would lower and release heat as it should. With time I would have to do that again and again, because I was told I have air in the system, but I never knew how to get rid of it on this model. Every other car I would just open radiator cap and wait till it is all out and then close it, but it did not work on this Acura.

    Anyways, now I have this car parked and I don't know what to do, One person tells me its head gasket, the other tells me I need another thermostat, next one said it my water pump, well if you add everything together you will understand that there is a lot of money required to fix this, but I know that there is not one drop of oil or any liquid since the day I purchased this Acura.

    I do not know what to do, but hope some one can give me a professional explanation regarding this problem.

    At this point I feel like selling it, because there is no point of this super nice car if I can not drive it. I wish some one could tell me what is wrong, because I do not know. Every mechanic that claims they know what is wrong, they do not know anything. I am afraid to take it to Acura Dealer, because they will take every penny I have. They have done that to me before, so if you know how to fix this problem or what to do, please post it. I really need help.

    I am not cheap, but why spend money on parts that you do not need. If you can please help me, as off now I plan to sell this car, but if I will get it fixed then I will drive it.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Here is a page with some possible causes and how to go about checking them. It sounds like your coolant flow is either interrupted or leaking though. Leaving the radiator cap open and letting the engine run to bubble out all the air in the system should work to remove most (if not all) air in the system. Then it's just a matter of figuring out whether your car is leaking coolant to cause the overheat condition or simply not circulating it (check that water pump!).

    Good luck and let us know what happens.

    http://members.shaw.ca/autocheck/overheatingc&c.htm
  • Thank for the info, I really dont know what to do, but I have no choice except change the water pump and then all the belts.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Sure you have a choice, I would take it to another independent mechanic and have them check the water pump for proper operation. In addition, they should be looking for leaks in the cooling system while under pressure. This is not too difficult, they should be able to do most of it quite easily with a lift.

    good luck
  • Thanks for the update, but I think its only water pump, because it has a new radiator, a new thermostat, there are no leaks anywhere, the car is dry as sahara desert around the engine and under. On this note I wish I had a manual how to change the water pump and timing belt since I will have to remove it to change the water pump. Also I should change all other belts, but I do not have the manual how to adjust the timing or check the tension on every other belt. If you know where I can get the resourse for this please help me out.

    This will be my first time, I always wanted to try, i saw a mechanic do this work but I dont have the same tools and I do not have the manual which guides me step by step what to do.

    Tools I can always purchase, but I dont know where to purchase the right manual to use for this type of repair.

    Thanks for the info. :D
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Changing the timing belt is not something you want to try as your first repair attempt. It takes a few hours even for a skilled mechanic and is a real pain in the rear. That is one of the few procedures I pay to have done on my '90 Accord and the process is similar on the Legends I believe. Doing the water pump at the same time of the timing belt change is obviously a good idea since it is in the same area, as you know. Changing the other belts isn't a bad idea either since you are taking them off anyway.

    Helms Inc. prints true service manuals for most cars. These are the factory service manuals that show in depth repair info. But even for a timing belt change you could probably get away with going to a local auto parts store (Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc) and picking up a Haynes manual for your car. They should have step by step instructions with pictures for this procedure. I like Haynes over Chilton's guides as they seem to have a bit more detail for certain cars. The Helms guide will run you at least $50, whereas the Haynes one will set you back about $25 at worst. The Haynes is much easier to get though, since you can only get a Helms manual via the mail. I got mine used off ebay, but you can also order direct from the company I believe.

    good luck!
  • bobcatmanbobcatman Posts: 51
    Hello, I can point out a few thing to you. Find a good Acura/Honda garage who's worked on this type of car and describe the symptoms. Many guys who don't work on Legends are clueless on this type of car and it's known issues. 2nd, there is bleeder screw right by the upper S shape radiat. hose that's made for bleeding out air. You do this until there's no more bubbles coming out and air is purged out of your radiator which will cause the temp. guage to give a high reading and fluctuate.

    A DIY timing belt change is doable but a pain the butt since you'll need a large breaker bar to get the main bolt off which many car parts store can rent out. Change the t-belt tensioner also, CAM seal and the 3 acces. belts. The Helms manual is the best and most detailed book for repair and well worth the cost. It's online I'm sure or ebay.

    Lastly, to check for a bad head gasket the exhaust will usually give off a whitish smoke and smell of coolant on start up. I'll bet you just have air in the system. In Google type in Acura Legend forums and you'll find the most detailed one with many members who have all the answers in the 1st query.
  • canrus01canrus01 Posts: 1
    I have ’91 Acura Legend L. I have replaced the powered antenna. But when I connect the powered connector to the antenna, the antenna rises. When I turn on the radio, the antenna slides in, when I turn it off, the antenna slides out. Who knows how to fix it?
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Looks like you switched a connection somewhere, double-check those power connections!
  • mrmath2umrmath2u Posts: 2
    I just bought a black '90 Legend LS coupe w/ 130k for $2k. It recently had the timing belt/alternator/electrical system/tires/brakes/battery It needs some rust removed and a paint job, but I thought it was a great buy for the price.

    The one thing that bothered me was the trans - it was rough from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th, clunked, and shuddered and clunked at highway speed. I read the pro & cons about power flushing on this board and decided to go with the flush, as well as adding Slick 50 (high mileage).

    95% of all the tranny behaviors have gone. Change your fluid before you judge the state of the trans.

    I love this car.
  • lavndr036lavndr036 Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1990 Acura Legend. I was wondering if anyone has done a full or partial synthetic oil change and if so where the results good? The car has high miles, 179,000 and want to put the best oil product in when I get it changed.
    Thanks
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    When you replace the antenna with an after-market unit, you must connect the red and green (or other color) wires to the proper OEM connections on the original antenna plug. ...and keep the black (ground) wire separate. Make sure the antenna mast is in the "down" position before you send power to the antenna. If you use a direct 12v power source, you can test the function by connecting the red and green wires together as the + connection, and using the black wire as the - connection. One colored wire connected will raise the antenna ....the other will lower it. There is an internal relay in the antenna to switch the connection once the antenna is up or down ...this "intelligence" is not provided by the radio. Hope that helps.
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    My 89 Legend has 365k kilometres on the original engine. I put half that on myself over the past ten years ...I've always used the recommended 5w30 oil, but a few months ago switched to the German-made Castrol Syntec 0w30. (Walmart carries it). I have noticed a significant improvement in smoothness and power. Other Acura/Honda users also speak highly of this particular oil. Of course, with the synthetic you'll pay more for the oil, but you can also leave it in longer ...so you should break even over the long run.
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    I think you could have gotten by with replacing only the small top 0-ring on each injector ($12 in parts). These are the first to go, and when they do, will result in minor gas leak at start-up ...along with gas smell from under the hood. If this does not solve the problem, then replacing the other seal rings on the injectors is still a viable option. My 89 Legend sedan with 365k kilometres is still running the original injectors ...I replaced the top 0-rings few months ago. I also did the 02 sensors about a year ago ..used the Bosch units as well. If you get a "check engine" light on hard acceleration, you need to replace the 02 sensors.
  • digger89digger89 Posts: 5
    I think the cons outweigh the pros on the power-flush issue. You're much better off doing a simple fluid change (ALWAYS USE ONLY HONDA/ACURA ATF) ...than risking seal damage with a power flush. Sticky solenoids are a much more common problem in the G1 Legends ...and easier to remedy than the transmission itself. If transmission continues to act up ...you might check the tranny mounts. Sounds like you got a great car at a great price!!!
  • crb2k04crb2k04 Posts: 1
    Today, my Legend over heated. After getting the mess cleaned up and letting the car cool down, I began to inspect it. From what I could tell, there was not a leak anywhere. So I decided to check to see if the fans were working...I started the car and let it run for a while with the A/C on, and the fans never came on. I checked for blown fuses, and could not find any. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Possible a relay, loose wire connection, or bad fans altogether.

    Btw, I have had this car for almost a year now, and I love it. Besides for minor problems (expected for a car with 200k + miles on it), it is very dependable. Thanks.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Check out the Synthetic Oil and Engine Oil discussions as well. There is a line of thought that says it's risky to change to synthetic oil for the first time in an older engine.
Sign In or Register to comment.