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Toyota Corolla

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Comments

  • canccanc Posts: 715
    Sounds like you're getting great MPG... I still can't figure out how the Corolla can get such good MPG, considering how zippy the engine is and the car's curb weight. The Civic weighs about the same, but the engine is much smaller and less performing, but it achieves less MPG.
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    I believe it is the VVT design of the engine. This architecture promotes mpg AND good performance. I had a Lincoln LS which is a great car but didn't have the VVT technology and its mpg left alot to be desired. BTW, my Corolla is a stick.
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    Funny how a Lincoln LS doesn't have as much engine technology as a Corolla! So, if I understand correctly, you traded in your LS for a Corolla? Apart from the MPG issue, were there other reasons for the switch?
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    A new home with the pressing need for several thousand dollars to landscape was the cause. I owned the LS outright. Sure do miss it as it was/is a wonderful car. My commute is now 45 miles one way, all freeway, little traffic. The great mpg of the Corolla helps me forget the LS!
  • Desertguy--

    This is my one complaint too...all of the civics come with the 60/40 rear seat, but the only corolla model that comes with the folding rear seats is the top model...(le?)

    I think they all should have it...
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    The folding back seat really is handy... I've used it 3 times already!

    I think Toyota didn't put it in the CE or S models as a cost-cutting measure. Remember one thing though: if you'd buy the base Civic, you'd get a whiny, puny 107 hp engine with no VTEC, but you get a 130 hp (or 127 hp) engine with VVT-i on a CE. Which one would you like best? I think Toyota made the best cost-cutting decision with this one.

    The only complaint I have about my Corolla is that I don't have those integrated map lights with the rear view mirror. Does the US Corolla have this? Oh well, I can certainly live without it, but it's a nice option anyway.
  • Canc, my 2001 LE has the integrated map lights as well as the 60/40 split rear seat. The more I drive this car, the more amazed I am at the number of features in such a small package.

    You make a good point about the Civic. The weak engine and the cost for the extras essentially ended my trip to the Honda dealer before it began. The Civic is a nice car but I (obviously) like the Corolla better.
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    You're right, it's amazing to see how many features are packed in the Corolla. Do you use the map lights often?

    The biggest features I was looking for were ABS brakes and a CD player. The ABS brakes were optional, but the CD player came standard on the Corolla. Although CDs are more or less now the media standard, it's still rare to see a CD player as standard equipment on a car. A friend of mine pointed out, however, that the physical dimensions of the CD player makes it almost impossible to put in an aftermarket radio, but who would? I find the stock radio to be superb.

    As for the ABS brakes, they had an Indigo Ink LE sitting in the lot but without ABS brakes, so it was ordered for me. It took about 4-5 weeks since it was made right here in Ontario.
  • nofeernofeer Posts: 381
    I'm looking for a car for my son (first car) When does the timing belt need to be changed (miles). if it goes out does it mess up the engine if it is running (my old civic lost a timing belt while i was driving and the valves hit the pistons and needed a $ 800 fix (there's a name for the engine type that will do that)

    I have focused on the 98 year for price reasons, any thing i should be aware of (problem areas, repair history)?. What are the major expensive service intervals that way i can tell if they have been done. e.g. on my MB the major services are at 30 and 60k miles with oil changes in between.

    Any suggestions, insight as to options or models
    HOw long does the standard last, if i could teach him to use a standard should i get it, or stick with the auto.

    Real life MPG? city and hwy i know its rated for the auto 29/36.

    Thanks :)
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    About real world MPG, I'm not sure about the 98, which I think has the same 1.8L VVT-i I have in my 2001, but I've been getting great MPG lately. I don't beat up the car, and accelerate smoothly, and I've been getting around 45 MPG as an average, doing 65% highway and 35% city.
  • britton2britton2 Posts: 305
    Is your '01 LE a 4-speed auto? I've been getting a little over 30 MPG in the city with my '01 LE (auto)...
  • canccanc Posts: 715
    Yes, it's a 4-speed auto., but I do mostly highway driving (65%). I must be getting around 30 MPG in the city too.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    The 1998 and newer Corollas use the new all-aluminum 1.8 engine, and it does not have a timing belt, but a chain. Thus, it doesn't need periodic replacement, at least not on any schedule that resembles that of the belts.

    Chains are making a comeback; they never left in the case of many European engines [Mercedes being the most prominent], but the new Nissan Altima's engines, both V6 and I4, will have chains driving the cams, as well.

    With the new spark plug materials, and the timing chain, the current 1.8 [and its upsized cousin, about to appear in the new Camry as a 2.4], are the closest thing to "maintenance-free" engines that there are out there - fluid and filter changes are about all there is to do for many, many miles.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    To answer another part of your question, I think the new generation of engine in the Corolla is a non-interference design...but on this point I am less than 100% sure. There is a website somewhere that lists every major manufacturer and which engines are interference and non-interference designs, but I am clueless at the moment at to where I saw that.

    And beyond some minor issues about noisy suspension pieces [the age-old Toyota bugaboo about squeaky bushings, I think] on a few cars, this has been a remarkably trouble-free car right from the get-go [the 1998 model year]. With mass-produced cars, there is always the chance of getting something exceptionally troublesome, but the average Corolla owner of this generation car has had a pretty good ride.
  • gsbhasingsbhasin Posts: 21
    Hi,
    I bought a new Corolla CE 2002 auto 2 days ago. The manual says not to exceed 55 miles per hour for the first 1000 miles. However I am in the Los Angeles /Orange county region and have to use freeway to get to work. Even in the right lane it is well neigh impossible to drive below 65 miles, heck people are on your tail. Unless of course there is a traffic jam.

    And low speed driving at 55 miles or less has the danger in South California of getting yourself rear ended!!

    How do I handle this in the break in period?

    All suggestions are welcome.

    Thank you,
    Gurpreet
  • nofeernofeer Posts: 381
    THis is to allow the rings in the pistons to "set" i believe. Most require you to "vary your speed" for example 500 miles at 30mph won't allow the rings to set well. the key i believe is the first 500 vary speeds, some at 25, some at 55 a a little at 65 and don't go to redline. I think the most harm is new car, and immediately shift at redline, or keeping very high rpm in any one gear when new. others will have opinions
    but this is how i've handled my breakin period for as long as i have driven. The big thing years ago was to change your oil after breakin, now i don't think that's necessary due to the quality of the oils and no real debris is generated during first 1000 miles. I think the best is a balanced approach. Gentle use of the rpms.
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    I just went through this with a 2002 S and I also commute in So. Cal. 45 miles each way to work on the fwy. As was said, it is most important to vary your speeds. I have a stick so I would drive some miles in 5th and then drive the same mph in 4th which changes the rpms the engine is turning. I think you only have a 3 speed automatic in the CE so shifting to "2" would probably be too many rpms. They were on my tail too but what the heck, let em go around. Just don't drive in the "fast" lane. I'm driving from Banning to Palm Desert and there is no slow down so the traffic is really moving.
  • gsbhasingsbhasin Posts: 21
    Thanks nofeer and desertguy.
    What do you mean by redline, nofeer? I think some cars have a dial for seeing the rpm. Mine does not have one. How do i know i am getting over the red line?
    i guess when are you exceeding a certain rpm, the engine makes a great noise, which i try to avoid. But its playing by the ear at best. Is there anything else i can do for not exceeding 'redline'?

    Do you guys use Premium gas? The manual says Octane 87 or above. And which brand is better, Shell , Mobil or Union 76?

    Thanks again,
    gurpreet
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    There is no advantage to using premium gas in the Corolla. It is set up for 87 octane so that is what I use. My wallet is greatful. As for brand, go with the cheapest. Arco is good around here but most want cash or debit card only. I have a Mobil Speed Pass so I stop there and wave it at the pump. Very convenient.
  • flootfloot Posts: 22
    Hello everyone: I am doing as much research as possible with the goal of eventually purchasing a 2002 Corolla CE. I live in the Southeast Toyota region (NC) and wonder what other charges appear on the bill of sale besides tax, title and license fees. Advertising fees? Doc fees? Any other surprises? Thanks for your help!
  • kbuikbui Posts: 15
    floot, you are right in focusing on the out-the-door price. This is what I would do:
    - locate the car you want, with the options you want;
    - tally up the destination fee and the invoice prices for the base car ($11,624, last time I looked) and the options;
    - add whatever profit you think the dealer is entitled to make, and subtract the customer rebate (I think it has gone up to $750; it was $500 when I bought mine 2 weeks ago);
    - add 3% sales tax, and about $100 for the paperwork (license fee, "documentation" fee, "courrier" fee, etc). This should get you an out-the-door price that is acceptable to you.

    To keep things simple, negotiate only on this out-the-door (OTD) number. Tell the salesman that you don't care how the dealership breaks it down, all you are interested in is the OTD price. Most salesmen will try to confuse you by pointing out the different components of the OTD price and how they are not making any profit... Keep smiling, and focus on the OTD price. Tell them that there is profit built in through the holdback, even if they sold you the car at invoice. This will show them that you have done your research, even though you are not asking them to part with any of the holdback. And if you are not in a rush, wait till the end of the month: salesmen and dealerships will be trying to fill their quotas and so may be more flexible on prices than at other times.

    Also, a good place to check out current rebates is carsdirect.com. Use the "configurator" on their website to build your car, and you'll see the customer rebate right away (if there is one).
    Good luck.
  • tundradudetundradude Posts: 588
    If you own a 96 Corolla, why get a 02; when you can get a new 03 next year?
  • tundradudetundradude Posts: 588
    Every now and then in history the Camry and Corolla shift their sizes. The new 02 Camry has shifted to a Avalon-size so the 03 Corolla should shift as well. This last happened with the 92 Camry and the 93 Corolla.
  • Desertguy, I was reading your comment about your corolla not having a power outlet. Supposedly that only comes with an automatic tranny. At least that's my understanding from lit. and online info.

    I just started looking at the 2002 Corolla S. I find the front end very appealing. It sort of reminds me of a Lexus IS300, after all that is the Corolla's big brother.

    Anyways, my first car is a 1984 Corolla LE. I saw a few of you were slightly disappointed about not having a split rear seat. My 84 has a 50/50 split rear seat. What's up with that? Why can't a car that's 17 or 18 model years older have a split rear seat.

    Sorry I'm dragging on with so many different ideas, but have any of you done any performance upgrades or body kit additions, such as the TRD package???
  • flootfloot Posts: 22
    Did you have a trade-in to deal with? If so, were you able to keep it seperate from coming to agreement on the new car price? Thanks for your great information!
  • flootfloot Posts: 22
    Well, waiting for the 2003 Corolla does make sense for me from a financial point of view. I could save up more money for down payment and pay off more of my current loan on the 96 Corolla (purchased last summer when my 1989 Dodge Colt gave up the ghost and I had been walking for several weeks.)

    I don't know enough about what the major design change for the Corolla involves. Also, I am assuming (perhaps incorrectly?) that a major redesign equates to price increase.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    This car is definitely going to be worth waiting for. There will be more room, especially in the back seat, marginally more power, and even more refinement than the current design. Look for a return of features that had been lost, like the height-adjustable driver's seat in the LE. [The era of decontenting at Toyota is over.]

    As for prices, I'm sure that will be up, but probably not more than 3-4%. For anyone who wants a car in this class, and can afford to wait, this is the one to wait for. I would look for release about this time next year - most of our cars will come from the Canadian plant, as NUMMI will be working on the Pontiac Vibe and its Toyota counterpart [based on the new Corolla platform].
  • kbuikbui Posts: 15
    floot, I did not have a trade-in. If you have one, consider selling it yourself - you'll get more money for it.
    If you don't want to sell it yourself, get a few estimates for your car (kbb.com, edmunds, carmax ads, your favorite mechanic, similar cars in the classified ads, etc); you should be able to zero in on a fair value. When you go to the dealer, try to keep the 2 transactions separate. Tell the dealer "I have done my research, and this is the price I expect for my trade-in. If you agree with it, let's talk about the car I want to buy. If not, let me go elsewhere."
    The key is to have a realistic price for your existing car. If you are confident you have come up with a realistic price, don't budge from it. And please note that the market for used cars can vary significantly, depending on the area you live in.
  • tundradudetundradude Posts: 588
    The 02 Camry is 1000 less than the 01 Camry.

    The present style Corolla 98-02 has been much cheaper than its predecessor (93-97).

    Another way to play this games is to get the low finance rates. A positive occurence during a recession.
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    You are correct that the extra 12v power outlet comes with the auto tranny only. As for the split rear seat, it is available only on the LE model. Some of the features I like on the S are the leather wrapped steering wheel & shifter and the body color outside mirrors and mudgards. What I really want is an after market sunroof!
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