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Audi A6

L8_ApexL8_Apex Posts: 187
Welcome to the continuation of the Audi A6 - Part
Two
topic. Those of you joining us from that topic
are welcome to continue your discussion.

If you're new to this topic, you may want to
follow the above link for additional archived
posts.

Thanks,

L8_Apex
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Comments

  • piper6piper6 Posts: 3
    Since we are into partIII I will re-ask my question and reply to the answer to my #701 post. The reason I am sticking with the analog phone is that 1 - I have one and not sure digital has made it to the boonies that I live in,and 2 from some comments I have picked up at Audiworld the motorola unit Audi would like you to buy (at 500$) is analog and therefore ,if an antenae exists, it would be matched. I am not timid about the installation as this would be my 3rd installation. It really isn't all that hard and the time taken usually is doing the job neatly not making the proper connections.
    My question was: is there a pre wired antenae hidden somewhere in the bowels of the A6 and if so where is the connector stashed?
  • lhn5lhn5 Posts: 37
    anyone find this 3rd board?
  • Porsche made VW, like Toyota made Lexus, which later bought Audi/Auto Union. For a more detailed insight, the www.audiworld.com web site has a special story on how it all began. It's their top story. It's quite long, but worth it. Audi- Auto Union was bought by MB before VW.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    The Kelly Blue book site lists available interior/exterior color combinations. Exterior color Pearl (D4) is shown as being available with the Vanilla/Marine interior. Is this something new for 2001? I believe a number of posters have the Pearl with Vanilla/Onyx, but Vanilla/Marine wasn't available. Something new? Or simply a mistake?
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Jason, I'm trying to find the information in the AudiWorld story you refer to. All I was able to find is where it says that F. Porsche, the man, had DSU make the prototype for the Beetle. I don't think the Porsche company came into existence until after WWII, as did the VW company. I remember F. Porsche going off on his own to build cars in the early '50's, but I don't know anything about the company Porsche starting or owning VW. As to the analogy of Toyota and Lexus, Lexus, until recently, was just a U.S. luxury brand name for the same cars that were Toyotas in Japan. (I guess Toyota was smart enough to know they didn't want to try to $45k cars through Toyota dealerships.) They're not separate car companies at all.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    This is an Audi A6 board after all. Anyway, has anyone ever heard of the Landcruiser? It lists for about $50,000, not a whole lot less than the Lexus varient, the LX470. You're right about Toyota and truely expensive vehicles, they just don't have the same focus as Lexus dealers. That's one of the reasons we traded our Landcruiser a couple of years ago.
  • txa6txa6 Posts: 1
    First time poster to this board, but I read it all before purchasing my silver/tungston/sport 2.7T several months ago--thanks for the great info--the car is fantastic!
    Love the car, don't have any of the minor issues a few others have mentioned, but there is one annoying phenomenon I'd like some feedback/advice on (haven't seen others mention it): when I'm in slow-moving, bumper-to-bumper traffic (every night on the way home!), and the car is decellerating in a coast, there is a noticible "downshift kick" at around 20mph. I'm not sure "downshift" is even the right word, since the car's coasting, and I can't see any "jiggle" in the rpm needle to accompany this pronounced kick (kind of a reverse hesitation)--which feels like someone lightly tapped the brakes. What is this? Something to do with the turbo? I'm about due to take the car in for its first maintenance, and I'd like to describe this with a little better insight (or even some speculation) from some of you pros. Thanks in advance!
  • bollingerbollinger Posts: 207
    Or more correctly, VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group).

    I looked into this. F. Piech, the head of VAG is a member of the Porsche family and thus the companies are very tied together. There is probably a very small VAG investment in Porsche with an option to buy the rest in case of distress, simply to ensure Porsche doesn't get bought by someone else (say Ford) without VAG getting a crack at them.

    So they are independent, although they do work together frequently. Most notably lately with the Audi Quattro (first one), Porsche 924, Tiptronic tranny, and now the W-engines. I'm sure there is a whole lot more stuff I missed too.
  • tubeytubey Posts: 39
    You're right, Steve. In fact, I do believe that the 914, 924, and 944 were all built by Audi for Porsche at Neckarsulm. However, since quite a few folks regard that threesome as Porsche's nadir Audi probably doesn't want to brag about it.
  • p928gtp928gt Posts: 1
    Ferdinand Porsche, the father, had 2 children: Ferry and Louise. The father worked on many auto designs for many companies before forming his own design firm. Ferry, his son, went on to start building sports cars in the family name in the late 1940's, while trying to get his father out of a French prison ("war crimes" due to his design of the Panzer tank among other things). The father passed away in 1951. Ferry, the son passed away in the spring or 1998, the 50th anniversary of the Porsche Comapny.

    The daughter married a Dr. Peich. A son of theirs worked for Porsche then on to Audi. Eventually, he came to headup Volkswagen, where he is today.

    I believe that VW owns Audi. However, Porsche is an independent firm. In the past Porsche has joined with VW and Audi to import and sell their vehicles in the U.S.

    During the Porsche 928 development, an Audi was used as a test mule, but the 928 was always going to be a Porsche.
  • david147david147 Posts: 2
    I have had my 2000 2.7t now for almost two months. Best car I have ever owned and best car I have ever driven. A great value for the purchase price money, and a great lease deal on top of that. I initially wanted a BMW528, but could not get past the salesman's inability to deal at any level. I have driven BMW528 rentals in Germany on business, and can report that the performance only seems to come at at higher revs. The 2.7t pull is right there at 2000 rpm already. I have had none of the problems referenced on this board. The wind noise at speed is at a very low level. The BMWs were not any better (or worse). I did buy black exterior and it looks great when clean, not so good when dirty, and it dirties up early. It will need a weekly wash to continue to look good.
  • shiftodshiftod Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2000 A6 2.8Q in black about two months ago. I noticed after a week that there was a swirl on the front hood...my guess was some bad wax or something. But I couldn't get it off with a sponge and car soap. I took it back to the dealer and after some messin' around they applied some wax over it and covered it up.

    However a couple of weeks later after a wash and rain, the swirl is back again. And I have no idea how to remove it. Please tell me what this is, if it's a serious problem, and how I can fix it. Is it a wax problem? Or did the dealer screw up with some kind of cleaner and run the clearcoat cover? Anyway, it's really annoying, this big circular smudge the size of a basketball on my hood. I'm going to take it back to the dealer, but please give me advice on what it is so that it doesn't get worse. Thanks a bunch guys, and just want to say I love this car...
  • bollingerbollinger Posts: 207
    You can remove them by polishing them. But then you are removing the clear coat down to the level of the scratches. And they will happen again anyway.

    They pretty much appear for exactly the reason you think they do. Someone rubbed a rough rag or one with grit in it on your car. It may have always been there even.

    Just keep your car waxed.

    Some report that Zaino Z5 can remove them without removing finish. I don't know anything about that. Check out www.zainobros.com. Even if this works, they will still reappear.
  • shiftodshiftod Posts: 3
    just to clarify...it's like a cloudy swirl...doesn't look like a scratch, never had anything like this on my other black car...hope it's something I can rectify!!!
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    These things are pretty difficult to describe. Sometimes a photo can be more helpful to people who can offer suggestions.

    You might try this:

    1. Take a good photo of the affected area.

    2. Go to http://www.audiworld.com

    3. Select the A6 (or any other, for that matter) forum.

    4. Post a description of the problem as well as the photo.

    My hunch is that you'll get plenty of responses, and some useful solutions.
  • david147david147 Posts: 2
    I noticed a slight swirl when I rubbed too hard to take off a splotch of bird dirton my black clearcoat finish (hood). The car had been recently waxed, and when I locally rewaxed (Zymol), the swirl went away, and has not yet reappeared.
  • ferarri11ferarri11 Posts: 91
    i guess dark colors are hardest to clean...i still think silver is the best color for audis, and they hide dirt real well, and arent a pain in the butt to clean.
  • spoon2000spoon2000 Posts: 12
    I would challenge the assertion that swirl marks are a fact of life on dark cars. Dark cars may show swirl marks more than lighter ones, but that doesn't mean swirls can't be gotten rid of. I speak from personal experience on this having had two black cars, a dark blue car, and two dark grey cars, and having done free-lance detailing for several years.

    The principles of polishing a car's surface are no different than those of jewelry polishing or sanding wood. You start with a harsh abrasive (just how harsh depends on your needs or on how bad your swirls/scratches are) and work your way
    up through repeated steps to a less abrasive polish. In the case of car polishing, less abrasive means using a polish with a finer grit.

    Meguiar's makes a number of products which, if used properly and in the correct sequence, WILL remove swirl marks. "Used properly" means applied and removed with clean, 100% cotton towels for application (or an orbital buffer) and removal, out of direct sunlight, on a concrete or paved surface, on a day when there isn't dust blowing around in the air, and following a car wash with dishwashing soap (use dish soap only before waxing, not for regular car washing) to remove old wax, road oils, etc.

    If your car is brand new and has swirls, use Meguiar's #9 "Swirl Remover" (from Meguiar's professional line) followed by your favorite wax that does NOT have a cleaner in it.

    If your car is older or has not been garaged and does not look like it just came off the lot, use Meguiar's #2 "Fine-Cut Cleaner" and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax.

    If your car is older or has been neglected for a while, start with Meguiar's #4 "Heavy-Cut" cleaner and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax.

    The reason you must always use #9 Swirl Remover after using either the #2 or #4 cleaners is that the latter products will slightly scratch your car as they're cleaning its surface. But the "damage" is undone by #9.

    The reason I say use a non-cleaner wax is that many cleaners in "one-step" waxes are harsh enough to put swirls back into your paint. See http://www.meguiars.com/ for more on this.

    Don't EVER use "rubbing compound" or "polishing compound" as these are imprecisely formulated, harsh products designed to be used after repainting, not for precision paint care like we're talking about here.

    Finally, car polishing isn't something to be taken lightly or on the spur of the moment. It requires at least a half day (preferably in the morning before it gets too hot). It's always helpful to have someone around who can assist with removing the cleaner/wax so you can save your energy for the next cleaner/wax application step.

    If you're fanatic about your car's appearance, an orbital buffer is a terrific investment. You can get one at Sears for around $50 when there's a sale or you can shell out for a more heavy duty one (I use a Cyclo brand buffer that retails for about $250).

    What ever you do, don't use a wool buffing pad on your car. Even many body shop "professionals" get into trouble with those by burning paint, putting in deep swirls, etc. And if you drop your applicator or wipe-off towel on the floor, by all means put it aside and grab a fresh one so you're not rubbing dirt back into your paint.

    Good luck.
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Posts: 956
    I've been away, so I know this is late, but: it ain't rocket science. The mark is either in the wax or in the clearcoat or in the pigment paint.

    You can eliminate one of these immediately simply by removing the wax from the hood (only); as explained in the above post, you can do this with a washing or two with dishwashing detergent (Dawn with its grease/wax cutting agents works real quick).

    If the haze/swirl/whatever is gone, you're all set with just a rewax (using cotton towels, etc.) If it's still there, whoever had it before did something to the paint. You really don't have to know what -- if it bothers you, take it back to the dealer ASAP and say (pointing to the obvious problem): "Fix that."

    Take care.
    Joe W.
  • a6probsa6probs Posts: 1
    I bought a new A6 2.7 Turbo with 480 miles on it. Drove it for a week without incident. Then while driving at low speed and without warning the engine began emitting a foul smell and I had difficulty shifting. I pulled over smoke came from under the hood. Car towed by flatbed to dealer. Eventually it was determined that the clutch had burned out because the master cylinder was sticking. They replaced the clutch and master cylinder. Initially they tried to claim that in 300 miles I had burned out the clutch because of "driver error" and wouldn't cover it under warranty. When I told them I was still on my first clutch with my 10 year old Saab they did not pursue this tac any further. Anybody had similar problems either with major problems very early with their A6, or with the dealer trying to deny warranty coverage? Thanks,
    Ed P
  • rwcole88rwcole88 Posts: 2
    Well, after many months of reading thie forum and Audiworld, I've decided to move forward and lease 00' Silver and Black A6 2.8. I can't wait!! One question - For those of you who have had the car for 1 year plus with higher mileage, how has the car held up?

    Thanks for your help!!!
  • bruno7bruno7 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 A6 2.8 with 15k miles on it. I have had no problems except the fuel gauge which was promptly replaced by the dealer.
  • robertkmgrobertkmg Posts: 9
    Well, it looks as if I have gotten the one flawed A6 2.7T that was been purchased by any of us. As we speak, Audi is trying to figure out how to release me from my lease and refund my down payment and lease payments. My mechanical problems, while not (yet) performance inhibiting are been quite a nuisance, resulting in eight trips to service in less than five months. Each time, Audi has suggested a repair methodology, generally dictated by the regional lead maintenance expert. Audi has even had factory personnel involved, but nobody has yet to figure out what the source of the problem is or how to eliminate it. Now here is my dilemma; assuming that Audi does make this accomodation, which appears likely,why should I replace this car w/ another 2.7T vs. a 328i or MB320CLK? I'd very much appreciate anyone's subjective opinions. If you would like, feel free to eMail me directly at kornhauser@eglobaltelehealth.com.

    Thanks.
  • robertkmgrobertkmg Posts: 9
    For those of you that might be interested in my ongoing saga, I received a call from Audi that they now want to pull the engine for a second time and replace the turbos. Even with this, they are not convinced that the problem will be resolved. They said that my car will be unavailable for another two weeks, making it four straight on this visit to service alone.

    I have gone way beyond beyond frustrated. Any thoughts?
  • spoon2000spoon2000 Posts: 12
    Have the magic words "Lemon Law" come up in any of your discussions with your dealer or with Audi?

    Based on what you've described, it sounds like you are very close to owning what would be considered a "lemon" under the consumer protection laws of most states.

    Under most state laws, dealers are required (as my salesperson did at delivery) to disclose that lemon laws exist and to point out the brochure called "Owner Information about Consumer Protection Laws" that should have been in your glove box when you bought the car.

    Identify what state you're in and I'll paraphrase what the booklet says about your situation (assuming your booklet is stranded in the glovebox of the car at the dealer).
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Bob, I would suggest taking a look at this link:

    http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html

    As to your question concerning a replacement, why did you get the 2.7T in the first place? I don't know what all your problems are, but most people are pretty happy with the quality, though there are horror stories. Statistically, the Subaru Legacy is one of most trouble free models, yet my wife is on her third entire ENGINE with less than 50k miles.

    If I were you, if I wanted another 2.7T, I would get one. If I wanted something else, I'd get that instead.
  • portedported Posts: 16
    I am surprised Audi has not just replaced the vehicle, under the current lease. Transfering the lease to a different, equivalent asset would seem to be not that difficult. Was this proposed? You probably have the equivalent $$$ wrapped up in the everyone's time, parts, etc.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    I agree that your stat's lemon law should be consulted. Sounds like you may have a prima facie case. Replacement should be the least they should offer. In addition, I would push for some additional consideration. If your 2.7T was a 2000, I'd be looking for a 2001. If you didn't get the navigation option because it seemed overpriced, I'd get it.If you didn't get xenons, or cd changer or phone,etc. I'd get them. For no more out of pocket money on your part of course. You'll have to see just how far Audi may go to make you happy, but I'd make them work for it. After all putting you in the same position you would have been in if the problems didn't exist isn't good enough. Your inconvenience and mental anguish (frustration) require additional consideration of some type. Maybe they can come up with some smokin' financing deal.You won't know unless you try. If it doesn't work, there is always Small Claims Court in addition to your Lemon Law remedy.
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