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Audi A6

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  • portedported Posts: 16
    Any recent updates on good extended warranties? We have about 15K miles ('99 A6Q). Looks like we will keep the car (owned, not leased) longer than expected.

    BTW: the Tip works just like a manual, no automatic upshift 1-2, can downshift to 1st. Not a 99.5, build date 12/98.

    Thanks,

    Ported
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 216
    Mark,

    Please explain in detail how you terminate a 30 month lease on the 28th or 29th month. Also I thought Audio does not deviate from their fixed monthly leases, i.e. 12, 24 , 36 , 39 and 48 month leases. Please explain this to me.

    Thanks,

    Jeff
  • beerguybeerguy Posts: 3
    Has anyone had good luck with window tint that does not affect the AM radio reception? When I tinted my '96 A6 with Llumar Platinum (metalized) my reception when right down the tubes because the antenna is built into the rear window. I've added a 2001 2.7t and am broiling in the MN summer. However, I don't want to mess up my radio reception. Thanks in advance for any recommendations or success stories.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,071
    At the risk of oversimplification (which I have been rightly chastised for doing) -- let's start out with the following:

    Leasing is renting the use of the car -- generally speaking the purpose of an auto lease is to use the vehicle with no intention of ever establishing any equity in it. It is, in many respects, like renting an apartment or staying in a long-term hotel. With the Audi Advantage (and other mfg's similar programs) coupled with a lease, "all you do" is pick the car, arrange for the lease, pay for the tags, gas and insurance (and tires if you wear a set out or want snow tires or something like that) and drive. Everything else is taken care of -- and for the term of the lease you have all the responsibilities of ownership and some of the rights of ownership.

    For example -- you have to take care of the car AS IF IT WAS YOUR PROPERTY (or pay the consequences at the termination of the lease). Yet even this obvious responsibility is also a "right" of ownership (sort of). If you buy a car (in cash) or lease a car or finance a car and keep it for 50,000 miles and "abuse" it -- you will pay, one way or the other. If you lease the car, you are, however (in the case of abusing the car) REQUIRED to pay for your sins. If you buy a car and abuse it and do not sell it -- just allow it to die that is -- you will not be required to pay another entity (as you are when you lease). Of course, when you own a car outright and abuse it you will "pay" either because the car will have a shortened lifespan or, if you decide to sell or trade it in, you will take a hit on the value of the car.

    The point of all the above is to say that in spite of the financial arrangement called leasing, you have virtually all of the rights and responsibilities of ownership -- it is just that the payment terms are different.

    In the example above, I say that you "will pay" if you abuse a car during the term of the lease at the end of the lease -- perhaps it will be for "excess wear and tear" or high milage or the fact that you smoked in the car (which reduces the number of people who may consider buying it used), or other factors including perhaps "normal" wear and tear. The opposite is also true. That is, if your car is not abused and is "desirable" you may find that instead of costing (as it does when you abuse) it can pay -- you can "profit" by keeping your leased car in "better than expected" condition.

    Here, after years and years of experience, are some suggestions that generally work to allow you to walk away from a lease early.

    As has been discussed at length above, there are friendly and unfriendly leases -- a friendly lease has a "realistic" residual. If, for example, you lease a 2001 Audi today for 4 years and the residual at month 48 is 62.5% and the milage allowance is 60,000 miles -- well, you better plan on keeping the car to term, because it is virtually impossible for a four year old (actually 5 model years old) Audi A6 to be worth 62.5% of MSRP. The leasing company structured your contract to get you a low low payment perhaps by using this technique. The lesson here, if you even think you might like to get out of your lease early is to do everything in your power to get a friendly lease (friendly in terms of "getting out of it early" which would, in this example, mean a "realistic" residual).

    Next -- keep your car immaculate inside and outside and under the hood. Perform all required service ON TIME at the dealer (a dealer). In my case I generally do 1.5 to 2.0 times as many oil changes as are required -- and I pay for them, and I have them done at the dealer. This (the immaculate inside and outside part) is really hard -- this means washing and waxing the car regularly and even detailing the car professionally at least once every 12 months (twice if you can). And, in our case, we always have the detailing done at the dealer (which costs about 20% more than elsewhere).

    Get to know, by name and face both the service manager and the service advisor. When they do good work, tell them. When they do something special, tell them, tell the dealership ownership and/or management and write a letter (cc'd to the dealership) to Audi Customer Loyalty personnell here in America.

    Keep in touch with the sales staff, especially the sales associate who sold you your car.

    Remember your sales, service, parts, finance and management people at Christmas -- send them a card. Last year, my wife and I sent the various departments a basket of fruit from Harry and David -- thanking them for their committment to excellence.

    When you get the call asking you how the dealership does -- give them 5's -- if you can't give them 5's, tell them NOT the telemarketers who call. It helps if you tell the people (about your picks and your praises) to their faces, not a nameless, faceless telemarketer. The net of this is, become your dealership's "best customer." You will be amazed at the level of service AND sales.

    OK so now you are into your "I would like to get out early phase" of your lease. It may be 6 months early, for example -- make sure you begin the "alignment" process. You will need to know the "street value" and/or the "trade in value" of your car. You will also need to know the "payoff amount" -- the salesperson will usually be all too happy to get this and the trade in value for you (with a phone call).

    All cars go through value cycles -- Audi's are neither particularly good or bad, although I have found that the later model Audi's seem to command a little more on the street value than perhaps a comparably priced (when new) non-Audi (Volvos, Jags, VW's and some BMW's, but generally NOT Porche's for example).

    Assuming you have a friendly lease, you may be suprised to find (as have I) that the value of your Audi with months to go on the lease is within $1,000 of the buyout. Once, my buyout was less than the street price and I sold the car in the paper and pocketed several hundred dollars.

    Assuming you are going to ORDER a new car at this point (for example 5 months out), you can ask your salesperson for a projection of the value of the car -- the buyout will be known in advance month by month. If the car you order takes 3 months to come in, and all of the above circumstances are "in place" -- the dealer will "make you whole" -- you will have a new car and be free of your old lease before the end of the term.

    Now, however, notwithstanding, etc.: The dealer cannot, will not, "give the store away." Do not expect this, do not ask for "a favor." You will find, often, that because you are a "really good customer" (and a repeat customer) you will get the "best deal" possible both from the dealership and the mfg (the Audi Loyalty program is a great example: no sec dep and Audi makes the first payment for "repeat" customers).

    Of the more than two dozen Audi's my wife and I have owned, we have bailed out early (even if it has just been a mo
  • mariobgoodemariobgoode Posts: 114
    I had a similar problem before, and my solution (worked for me, maybe not for everyone) was add another antenna to the car, something that is not too ubiquitous. The smaller, the better. I find these small add-ons lately in European cars, and they even look good. I hope this helps you. Mario
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    I understand. I just wanted to make sure everyone knew that other resources on this subject are alive and well in Town Hall.

    By the way, I may have mentioned this to you before, but your posts would be a lot easier to read if you would put them in the message box, rather than the title line.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 216
    thank you for the explanation.

    Jeff
  • vkjvkj Posts: 67
    sorry, on the a6 board on Audiworld.com the opposite seems to be the consensus. If the message is short, just say it, if it is long then your approach is adopted. I am not sure why you believe it is easier to have short messages broken up, but I will bow to the will of the majority. Any one else have an opinion?
  • kam66kam66 Posts: 31
    On the Audiworld board it is a little more difficult to get to a post as they display them as threads. Here you can follow along by just scrolling down and do not have to select a message to read it.

    Just my opinion.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,071
    I find it so difficult to read the Audiworld posts, even tho I do like the fact that they have a search. I can read or skip the narratives here in the town hall and it seems more like "public" e-mail. If a search could be added -- for example, keywords, that would be great!
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,071
    Those of you who are long timers to this board know that I have had my brake rotors replaced several times both on my 2000 and now 2001 A6 4.2. Using the search for "brake rotors" over on the Audiworld board, I found that several (many?) folks have had or are having the same issues with their brakes -- and this applies to the A6 2.7T and 4.2 and the S4 (2000 and 2001 models).

    I have called a company in Canada called KVR Performance, Inc. -- they claim they have a part number for high performance, cross drilled rotors for my 2001 A6 4.2 -- but they can't find a price for it. I have checked Joe Hoppen motorsports, APR and other companies -- so far no luck in finding anyone who actually has "A6 4.2" performance items (brakes, suspensions, spoilers, etc.). I am not particularly interested in "tricking out" my A6 (as I am optimistic about an S6 Sedan "coming soon" to the US or a V8 S4 ditto) -- but I am interested in getting a reliable, non-shuddering set of front rotors.

    Where can I buy these things -- do they really exist?

    The following quote from "timcar" over at AudiWorld A6 Forum is exactly descriptive of the experience's I have had and am currently having with ALL 5 sets of Rotors on my two A6 4.2's
    The conclusions that it may not be rotor warpage are logical, and I agree with timcar -- as my experiences have been virtually identical.

    (the following is a direct quote from a message board participant, named "timcar")

    "My 2.7T's brakes will "purr" when braking from speeds 80+. But, they will only do it
    under certain conditions. I assumed it was warped rotors, but now I don't think so.
    First, they normally only do it when I first apply them at higher speeds. Second, they
    don't do it at lower speeds at all. This is inconsistent with any warped rotors I've ever
    experienced on any other car. The other evening, I did a little experiment. When I knew
    I'd be braking for an exit when I'd been driving 80+, I tapped the brake pedal a few
    times before reaching the exit to "warm" up the brakes. Sure enough, no "purr." I did
    this because I'd noticed that after significant higher speed use the "purr" seems to
    vanish. Think it must be something other than warping. What? Maybe the pads are
    grabbing then sliding very rapidly, producing the pulsing. How about this: partly glazed
    pads, causing the above. I.e., when the glaze burns off, the slipping stops. Or, could it
    be the calipers need to warm up to work efficiently. Does 4 pots, mean 4 pads? Does
    heating up make certain that all points on the caliper are making contact with the rotor?
    Don't know. But I don't think it's the rotors. I think that always driving these cars under
    100mph may be a form of abuse."
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    I'd love to hear about a silver bullet. One poster in response to the post you quoted said it might not be the rotors at all, but the pads vibrating in their housings. I.e., when they warm up and expand, they no longer vibrate. Since Audi has redesigned these brakes for '02 after only two years, suggests it's a design issue.

    Yet another poster said they had their rotors cryogenically treated and that solved the problem. I'm puzzled myself, and have just been living with them. Would love to learn of someone who has THE answer.
  • amarchanamarchan Posts: 23
    I agree with timcar that it is not warped rotors responsible for the humming noise the brakes make in some A6's. Before my '01 A6 2.7T arrived the local Audi dealer gave me a similar '00 2.7T to drive, and I had it for 2 weeks. I mentioned to the service people an occasional hum in the brakes (at all speeds) and they told me that the car I was driving was a demo and that someone before me had driven it with the hand brake "on" for about 5 miles and that was the reason for the hum. I pointed out that the hum was predominantly, if not only, in the front brakes, which should not be affected by the hand brake, but they insisted that was the case and that they would be taking care of it when I turned the car in. Three weeks later, after my car came in, I again had the opportunity to drive the other car (they were putting a clear coat protectant on the paint) the hum was gone, and the service people swore nothing had been done to the brakes. If it was warped rotors, the vibration should ALWAYS be present. I had this problem with an '82 Volvo 242 Turbo and an '84 245 Turbo Wagon, and it felt different than what I experienced with the '00 A6.
    Maybe it's the pads, and the cryogenic treatment of the rotors helps the pads apply their force more evenly. Whatever it is I'm sure Audi knows about it and therefore is making changes for '02.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,071
    The folks at KVR Performance called me back! New front rotors are $275 (each). But they have no pads.

    I called Audi and they said a set of front pads for my 01 4.2 is $257!

    I called APR and they said "if they had them, they would be around $75 for Mintech (?) Red Box. KVR Performance pads are also in this range, but "none exist" -- no cross ref part number for my car.

    So, let me see if I have this right -- new rotors, which are identical in fitment, even though they are "cross drilled" which should make them cooler MAY not solve the problem. Even if I could get new pads and new rotors in the aftermarket, the problem might not go away, unless I replaced the entire brake assembly which would include new rotors, new pads and new pad housings (calipers?).

    This could be expensive and for no gain (cooler brake rotors, sure, but we are all coming to the conclusion that the problems are most likely NOT warpage. The entire Big Brake replacement kits I have seen (with no assurance that an A6 4.2 fittment actually exists) are pretty close to $3,000.

    The service manager at Northland said he could probably get Audi to "buy" the new rotors and pads (but again to what end?). I cannot even imagine why they would buy the entire aftermarket brake replacement.

    And we all seem to have come to the conclusion that Audi really goofed up this time (in the 00 and 01 model years) -- so they have put "improved front brakes" (from their announcement) on these cars.

    By the way, while my car was in for some routine maintenance, I was given an A6 (2.8 quattro) to drive (2001 and it had about 3,400 miles on it) -- the brakes seemed fine, I could NOT replicate the shudder or purring sound no matter how I tried (at speeds of over 80 included). And, my wife's 2001 TT's brakes are fine at any speed apparently (and I have exercised them, fully and they have 18,000+ miles on them and they are "perfect.").
  • wbreauxwbreaux Posts: 33
    When will the 2002 A6s arive and what are the major differences from ? I have read about the A6 3.0; it sounds like otherwise there will not be major changes.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Read Edmunds.com's just posted First Drive of the 2002 A6 3.0 by following the link in the Additional Resources box on the left sidebar of this page. Let us know what you think.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • jkendalljkendall Posts: 30
    Don't laugh! But my '97 Toyota Land Cruiser which I've owned for only 8 months, has the pulse
    or 'purring' brakes. I had all the discs turned, and the problem persists!! I think timcar is on
    the right track. I'm gonna try to heat up the brakes and see if that solves the problem. Of
    course, the TLC weighs over 5k #, and, I'm sure smaller rotors, but it shouldn't do that!!

    jk
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,071
    The Audi Press Release for the new A6 (which by the way has many subtle and several significant changes for 2002) clearly states that the A6 for 2002 will have "New high performance front brakes" -- they must know of the issues (the aggravation, if you will) that the previous "new" design caused (and still is causing).

    I think I would take a 2002 A6 if they would let me walk away from my 2001 -- but after only 8 months and 9 payments (the first one they made) on a 30 month lease -- bzzzz sorry, no way. The brake "purring" is just plain annoying in an other wise fantastic car. I wonder if the S6 has the same brakes (in other words, if in December of 2000 when I got my 2001 A6, there had been an S6 available, would it have had the same brakes or different? -- The S8 for example supposedly has different brakes than the A8 "Brembo's" as I recall reading in a test report of a US S8).

    The press release for the 2002 S6 Avant makes no mention of anything relating to special brakes.

    Inquiring minds.
  • Hi,am planning to lease an Audi A6 2.8 Quattro-a 39 month lease with quattro celebration package and Bose system.The monthly payment will be around 460 dollars and there is a $1000 down payment and first months payment too-then there is the documentation fees of $45 and sales tax of $120-taxes in Ca.Now the dealer tells me of 577 cap reduction fee-what is this-he tells me its down payment-but i dont see it on the national advertisement.Am confused,is this a good deal-this is the first time am leasing and the money factor is 1.49,have no idea what the interest is ,the residual is 18177.Please help......
  • aam1aam1 Posts: 26
    Hi All:

    I am a first time poster to this board and a potential Audi buyer. This board is great and I have learnt a lot glancing through the posts. Was wondering if I could get some help.

    I am thinking of leasing a 2001 A6 2.7T. I understand from the posts on this board that:

    - there are some issues with the brakes on this car.

    - the 2002 model will be much better than the current model.

    Is it worth than waiting for the new model year to come out? What are possible changes? Are the break problems very widespread?

    Also, if someone can recommend a dealer in the Tri-State (NY/NJ/CT) area that has a good sales and very importantly service department, it would be very helpful.

    Thanks a lot everyone.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Regarding your questions:


    1. Brakes have been problematic on some 2.7T's and 4.2's. 2.8's have had different brakes that come from the A4. Some consider the 2.8's brakes inadequate. I would get my 2.7T again in a minute, not withstanding it's purring brakes at speed. The 2002 will have redesigned brakes for the 2.7T and 4.2. Don't know about 2.8. My bet is they won't have this problem.


    2. This is a URL with a list of changes for '02. I can't swear it's complete. I've seen other lists which show Bi-xenon's and I don't think they're on this list.


    http://www.audiworld.com/news/01/2002changes/


    3. Whether it's worth waiting for '02 is up to you. There are tradeoff's. I would wait for '02's, but I don't want to spend your money. Dealer's have been having some fantastic financing on leftover's. I also think some color combo's may have been dropped for '02, so, if you're in love with any of them, this is your last shot. That said, the sport mode option on the Tiptronic alone would make me wait for '02. The better brakes with Brake Assist is another biggie for me. Ditto the dynamic changes, stiffer structure, thicker glass. Maybe if you don't drive an A6 every day they might not be a big deal, but I would have to think they'll make a wonderful car even better.


    4 My wife and I each got an Audi from Audi of Mendham in NJ. We're well satisfied with the dealer, and Bonnie Manniello is very nice to do business with.

  • bertram60bertram60 Posts: 113
    My '98 A6 2.8 had warping problems twice in three years, 38,000 miles I had it. My '00 A8 has been in for three sets of rotors in the last 5 weeks. The first set were doomed from the start as I picked the car up during a huge storm and had to drive through a ton of deep water. Second set went on, and within a week the shudder was back, mostly noticeable from higher speeds, but eventually it was like driving a paint mixer. The current set, while better still has some purr to them. I have taken great pains to make sure I broke them in correctly. I spoke with the owner of KVR and they have a shop here in Miami. He suggested that I get Audi to give me the new rotors, he would check and cross drill them for $40 each and then I could have Audi install them.

    He also stressed that breaking in the rotors was very important (but near impossible for me to accomplish). He said to take the car to 40mph, come to a gentle stop, back to 40 and repeat three times, then park the car and let the brakes get cold. The more times you do this the better.

    I am taking the car back next week (Nav system failed) and going to have them look at the rotors again. My service rep was sick the day I was in, and said he wanted them to change all four rotors, but only the front were done, so that's his fix.

    I have to say this is a hugely annoying problem and I understand how you all feel. The big brake kit for my car (996 Porsche brakes) is $3,400 plus installation, and is only for the front end. I'm torn (not that I want to spend the money) but I want this problem solved. Audi seems content to replace the brakes every few weeks, but I don't like having to mess with it. It's also pretty embarrassing to take clients out in a $60k+ car and have to make excuses for the brakes.
  • emdoc1emdoc1 Posts: 1
    Anyone know of a good aftermarket CD changer that will fit the Audi A6 Bose system? I would prefer not to get an RF cd changer.

    Thanks
    Rich
    Chicago, IL
  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    I've been following the debate on buying now (2001) versus waiting for a 2002. I've been very happy with my 2001 (cashmere gray, 6 speed, cold weather, premium and preferred luxury packages). At this rate I'll probably trade in a few years (I'm a buyer, not a leaser). I wonder if we'll see the S6 over here some day?

    When I look at the enhancements to the 2.7T for the new model year and weigh them against the probable savings for a 2001 model it seems clear to me that a 2001 model is the way to go. This is already a great car and the improvements are - and I don't mean this critically - marginal in light of the overall performance and comfort of the current model year. I bought my car a few months ago in part because I wanted as wide a selection as possible from dealer inventory. When I made the decision to go Audi I didn't want to wait. It's been a great summer so far and I've made two very enjoyable car trips.

    By the way - I have encountered one "problem" I'd like to survey the members on. Twice while having my car re-fueled at a full service station (two stations - one in MA and one in NJ) the nozzle failed to shut off. Both attendants were apologetic and discounted the sale. One of the attendants told me that this happened to him once before while re-fueling an Audi. This has never happened to me at self serve. Does anyone have any experience with this?

    Back to the 2001 versus 2002 debate - my recommendation is if you find a 2001 with the trim you're looking for - go for it. I have no regrets at all.
  • trejos28trejos28 Posts: 93
    Although BMW had me, I decided to go the Audi way...'01 2.8...$496 a month (includes all taxes, etc.), $0 down, 39 month lease. Very, very happy.
    Looking forward to conversing on this board.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    I love Edmunds and the Town Hall forum, so I am not happy to offer negative criticism about the First Drive article on the 2002 A6.

    I'm sorry that I didn't find the article either very informative or entertaining. With the greatest respect, I don't think it was very well done. Audi AG released an extensive English language press release that detailed the many changes that went into the '02 A6. If I'd only read the First Drive, I'd think the only things that have changed are that it has a new base engine, a new radio and the wonderful Multitronic. Unfortunately, most people aren't going to get to enjoy the Multitronic for quite awhile since the vast majority of A6's in the U.S. are sold to people who want AWD.

    Indeed, the lengthy First Drive article has only one small paragraph that describes actually driving the new A6, and that tells me almost nothing. Ninety percent of the article is a technical discussion of the new CVT. The remaining paragraphs tell me about the engine line up, some appearance changes and that the new radio controls have been simplified and made more ergonomic, as if a serious short coming is being addressed. As a driver of an '01 2.7T I can assure everyone there's nothing difficult or complex about the present sound system controls. And that's coming from a technophobe who has difficulty figuring out which end of a screwdriver to hold.

    Because of the remarks about the radio, reliance on rehashed technical information on the Multitronic CVT, and no meaningful description of what it's really like to drive the new '02 A6, I regretfully have to conclude that the reviewer has probably never seen an '02 A6 except in pictures. Speaking of which, the German publicity shots included show a German A6 with black matte lower body panels. I don't think that's coming to the U.S. U.S. Audi's have always had body panel colored panels, however this week's Auto Week showed a new A4 test driven in Vermont that also had black matte lower body panels.
  • stevenb4stevenb4 Posts: 3
    I own a full service gas station and an 2000 A62.7t 6sp., I have never had a problem with the nozzle shutting off when the tank was full, if it persists you should have it serviced.

    I purchased my loaded a6(everything but GPS and rear sensors) for under $35k. it has 25K miles and came with an ext4ra set of two piece 17 inch rims and tires. I have the stock 16' sport rims for the winter. I Love the car and have had no problems! The brakes are spongy and take getting used to. I had a a4 2.8q I/5sp., and sport susp, and thought I couldn't be happier, but the a6 with all it features and extra room has been a blast. Now I can fit three kids in the back and leave the caravan at home..
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,071
    Due to the "outpouring" of information regarding the "purring" brakes on some A6 2.7T's, 4.2's and now an A8 (bertram60) ["My '00 A8 has been in for three sets of rotors in the last 5 weeks,"] I have been able to compile enough information to send a non-critical letter to Audi of America sharing this information with them and requesting some understanding, clarification and help. I cc'd the 5 page letter, repleat with quotes from this board and AudiWorld to the service manager @ my dealer here in Cincinnati -- he has been extremely helpful and forthcoming. He has shared with me that replacing rotors on [certain] Audis is NOT a rare service procedure in his shop. "Throw a set of rotors and pads on it" seems to be a common way to deal with the customer's complaints of the shuddering brakes.

    As we have been discussing on this board, KVR performance has cross drilled or slotted or cross drilled and slotted rotors (pick one and the rotors are $275 each, pick both and add $40.00 for the additional labor -- each). I WAS excited about getting new rotors (even if I had to pay for them) if my purring brakes would be vanquished. Then, I read timcar's post and bertram60's post and kind of figured that these new rotors wouldn't do any good, since the problem appears NOT to be warped rotors after all. Then I went to www.goapr.com and found information about the Big Brake Replacement kit (also mentioned by bertram60) -- they are over $3,000 for the fronts! But, they claim that the entire brake set up is replaced and that true high performance braking capability (with fine street manners) will be the result.

    Now, I am on (in 2 4.2's) my 5th set of rotors and pads (front only for the rotors and they did replace the rear pads, too). The pads (front only) are listed at the dealer at $257.00 -- even with a 100% markup, it seems to me that the folks who have been discussing this issue on this board and the AudiWorld board have cost Audi (either "of America or AG") a "ton" of money, as I can only assume that the rotors (at dealer selling prices must be at least $1,800 to $2,000).

    If I keep going back to the dealer for new rotors and pads as many times as bertram60, timcar and others have or will, I know I will blow through $3,000 worth of parts in a matter of a few months -- again to what end?

    The question I ask and the clarification I seeking is this: are "you" convinced that the KVR cross drilled rotors, plus another new set of Audi OEM pads all installed by the dealer will be any improvement (beyond the obvious improvement in braking and disc cooling that such rotors claim and that cross drilling inherently affords?). In other words, regardless of WHO is paying for this "fix" should I even bother?

    Part two: if the answer is ". . .well if it is "free" what could it hurt?" I then ask the question, suppose I do get the KVR rotors, Audi pads and suppose that it really is free, then suppose it doesn't work because as we have all agreed, it doesn't sound like warped rotors -- should I respectfully request that Audi spring for the Big Brake Kit?

    If I have to put out $3,000+ for parts and another $600 for labor, versus dumping out of my car and spending the same money towards a 2002 (with improved brakes) -- based on my (and your experiences) shouldn't I just pay my money and take my choice (and get the 2002)?

    What would YOU do -- and what would you do if it was free vs what would you do if it was "fee?"

    Thanks all.
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