Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Audi A6

15455575960338

Comments

  • bertram60bertram60 Posts: 113
    The solar roof should power the fans while the a/c system is in the Auto position (at least on my A8 it does) and the ignition off. It works pretty well (i'm in S.Florida and love it), and at least when you turn your a/c on it doesn't blow hot air from the vents. The idea is that the car shouldn't be hotter than the outside air. You'll notice the difference when you park the car in a parking garage on a hot day and the fans aren't running. I actually try and keep the car outside so that they do run and i don't get blasted with hot air when i start the car.

    You should also notice that the side windows in your car are twice as thick as a standard window since the side glass is insulated. It should have a little channel in it when you look at the top edge.

    I hope summer ends up making it's way up north and you get the opportunity to appreciate the warm weather package!
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,047
    I don't think the A6 had the special glass, I am not positive -- the A8, as noted, did. Which BTW did make hand held cell phones have a greatly reduced range.
  • bigcoconutbigcoconut Posts: 13
    Any information out there on the new RS6? The only wagon I know of that can crush the RS4. There has got to be a web site somewhere with info on this "beast."
  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    I'm wondering if anyone out there has experience with Autobahnd Roadblock. This is a clear 3M product that is applied to areas of the car which are vulnerable to chips in the paint - hood, fender flares, head lamps, etc. A friend of mine had it added to her new car (Volvo S80) and swears by it. I took a look at it today and it looked good - in this case expertly applied. I'd appreciate any input.
  • blei1blei1 Posts: 11
    I am curious as to what speed your shimmy begins. If it begins anywhere between 55-70mph, I think you have a problem. I seriously doubt that you have bent wheels. Unless you are hitting potholes left and right, you don't haven bent wheels. I live on a dirt road and the answer I get from my dealer and one of Audis experts is that mud and dirt lay on the inside of the wheels and cause an imbalance. Lets put it this way I have been to the dealer 6 times and am in the middle of a lawsuit(Lemon Law)against Audi. Whatever they tell you is the problem, is more than likely not true. I have done extensive research on this problem and the only solution I find is for Audi to make a better wheel design. My advice, get an attorney(or call Autoline-BBB),which I have done. Audi has never offered me any replacement wheels or any type of help. Good Luck.
  • blei1blei1 Posts: 11
    By the way, I have 2000 A6 2.8 Quattro.
  • ike15ike15 Posts: 3
    I like to get a 1998 Audi A6 quattro. I'm concern about the reliability of the car. How is the reliability if anyone can respond. It is a foreign car and when they break the cost a lot to fix. I'm concern about how often repairs are required.
  • amarchanamarchan Posts: 23
    I took delivery of a 2001 A6 2.7T last week, Pearlescent white/tungsten leather, all extras except sports suspension (no place to use it here in Columbia, SC) and heated seats (I go from covered garage at home to covered garage at work). I also own a 1998 A4 2.8 which my son is driving now. I've noticed that the oil temperature in the A6 is significantly higher than in the A4, up to 230*C. Is this normal? Also, in the A4 I always turned off the A/C compressor before turning the car off (in the A4 the fan always stays "ON"). The salesman at Audi here in Columbia tells me that I don't really need to do that. Just turn off the car. Will this damage the A/C compressor?
    I love the car, got 350 miles on it now, and I'm sure that the smiles/miles is higher than if I'd gone with the 540i, the GS400 (now 430) or the E430. I found the combination of ergonomics, performance, service and the Quattro (aah! the Quattro...) superior to the other cars, and at a lower price.
    BTW, I always used mid-grade gasoline in the A4 without problems (no knocking, ever), and this A6 has lower compression so I will probably use mid grade (89 octanes) on this one too. I found that in the A4 when I did use premium performance was not noticeably better, and gas mileage went down. Any comments?
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,047
    The Turbo REQUIRES premium fuel. I believe the minimum US rated octane that it will "tolerate" is 91 -- performace does increase with 92 and 93 octane.

    The Turbo REQUIRES premium fuel. Actually I can think of no recent Audi that will not benefit from premium fuel. But, say it with me, "The Turbo REQUIRES premium fuel."

    Unless some technical bulliten or change to the engine has occurred -- The Turbo REQUIRES premium fuel (and personally, I would avoid any fuel with alcohol in it).

    You will NOT be happy in the long run with non-premium fuel.

    And, yes I know, it is now 1.99 9/10'ths here in "River City," Ohio. I feel the pain in your wallet.
  • dzierdzier Posts: 4
    They rarely offer incentives on Audis. I just bought an A6 4.2, and Audi was offering 6.9 % financing, but I got 6.45 at a local credit union. Look at edmunds TMV, try to get the best deal you can under Edmunds TMV, and shop around and get apporval on a low interest loan.

    David
  • dzierdzier Posts: 4
    You have the solar panel in the glass. This is used to power fans to keep the car cool in the sun when it heats up in the interior.
  • dzierdzier Posts: 4
    Ike - according to consumer reports, the 98 model's reliability was below average. Additionally, they suggest that you do NOT buy the first year of a redesign or new model year. You might want to spend time looking at the 99's.
  • dzierdzier Posts: 4
    The1998 A6 2.8 qualltro used to come with the warm weather package, the sunshades in the rear, the solar panel and the heated steering wheel as options. FOr 2001, you can only get these on the 2.7T, or the 4.2. The heated steering wheel is limited to the 4.2, and the solar panels are not offered at all. The sun shades are offered on the 2.7T and the 4.2, but not the 2.8.
  • amarchanamarchan Posts: 23
    I've contacted 4 dealers in the South (Charlotte, Greenville, Columbia and Atlanta) and they all agreed I should be more concerned with brand name than with actual octanage. Three of the four told me to stay away from Union 76 gas stations as that gasoline has more additives that can clog up valves and injectors. One of the dealers suggested alternating mid-grade and premium tanks. Since I rarely let it go down below 1/2 tank that sounds to me like a good compromise. And it's not the money. I may drive 1000 mostly highway miles/month. At 10 miles/gallon (I'm getting 22-23 - I had an A6 2.7T on loan from the dealer for almost 3 weeks before I received my car) that would be 100 gallons, and at $.10/gallon more than the mid grade that's $10/month (less than a good cigar). But I WAS getting better gas mileage, so the 89 HAS to be burning more efficiently than the 93, and therefore will leave less deposits. Your 4.2 and your wife's 225hp TT are a different story - those need the highest octane rating they can get - it has to do with their compression ratios.
    What about the A/C question?
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,047
    I called my dealer -- talked with the Service Manager who has been with the Audi dealer I have dealt with for over 10 years. He says the "computer" will retard the spark (or something like that) if it detects "pre-ignition" (ping). But, he said the engine is "tuned" to get the most torque with higher octane fuel. The car performs better with premium, he says.

    So, the engine will apparently prevent itself from self destruction via pinging, but will not perform as well. I got the same message pertaining to brand and as I suspected alcohol. Brand apparently has to do with additives -- mostly for keeping the valves and fuel injectors clean. My service manager says that premium fuel, generally, will cost less (in gas milage) as the engine ages due to the "general fact" that premium fuel of Certain Brands (and here in Cincinnati he mentioned Marathon, Shell and BP as 'good fuels') prevent the build up of dirt that robs both power and gas mileage.

    I am not a technician, engineer or petrolium/gasoline expert of any kind. In fact, if I could use regular or plus "safely" I would. Funny, the dealer rep told me that in my 4.2 it would be safer to burn lower octane than in any Audi Turbo due to the extra heat that a turbo creates. He says that Premium fuel actually is less volatile and therefore is "better" for the turbo's demands.

    Again, you have to go with your gut and your dealer's recommendations -- and it probably wouldn't hurt to hear from the mfg. I thought the manual said that premium fuel is required, not simply recommended.

    Also the car will become both more efficient and powerful once you go beyond 5,000 miles and again by about 10,000 miles (this is from personal experience with over 24 Audis).

    With respect to the A/C, just turn the thing to Auto, set the temp and generally "forget it." Don't worry about a shutdown sequence, the computer is very helpful with just about everything.

    The only thing I have ever done with one of these turbo models is to let the car idle before turning it off, IF I have "run it hard" immediately prior to pulling into my driveway (you know, driving in 2nd and 3rd gear "hard and fun"). I assume this is still the correct procedure, but I have heard some sort of cooling fan sound on my wife's TT after she shuts the car down, especially during warm weather.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,047
    My Service manager called his tech rep (at Audi USA) and was told that Audi of America has performed experimens with mid-grade fuel. The results: some driveability problems -- people tend to keep the car in a lower gear longer to make up for the diminished torque -- result: lower gas milage. And the catalytic converter will start to smell of rotten eggs with lower than 91 octane (the engine will perform at its maximum: power, efficiency and drivability with Shell or Marathon (this applies to Cinccinnati) premium (93 octane) fuel. Did again say that the car will not self destruct with mid grade fuel, but that it will not run optimally.

    He told me the turbo needed the higher octane fuel to make it run cooler, because of the inherent nature of the Turbo's -- that is to say to run hot(ter) than a normally aspirated engine.

    He also told me flat out that BP premium here in Cincinnati has caused some valves to "carbon up" but that it has generally been in cars that are rarely run at high RPM's (said almost no manual transmission Audi's have carbon build up, hmmmmm or perhaps I should say Zoooom.)

    Said that most drivability problems happen to customers who: have used mid grade fuel in the summer months and/or not opened up the cars on a regular basis. They then have problems during the cold seasons -- rough idling, etc. Service manager is Bill Fliehman Northland Audi in Cincinnati 513-851-5900 -- tell him you are in the A6 town hall. This guy knows his stuff and is very easy to talk with.
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    In pre-computer controlled engine days, you could burn the lowest octane that didn't cause pinging (detonation). Not so with newer engines. In a nutshell: the higher the octane, the higher the fuel's ignition temperature. Compression in the cylinder raises temp of the air/gas mixture so, in a high compression engine, low octane fuel can actually ignite from compression alone before the engine expects it, causing pinging (detonation); the noise is the sound of the intake valves being blown shut. Detonation is very damaging to an engine but is controlled by engine sensors in virtually all newer cars. HOWEVER, the engine sensors do nothing to prevent incomplete fuel combustion which will eventually carbon up the valves, injectors, turbos, and catalytic converters (VERY expensive to repair/replace). Your gas mileage will also be better on high octane, so in the long run, using low or mid octane is probably false economy. With gas heading for $3/gal here in CA, I feel your pain.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,047
    dwpc:

    Great summary -- sounded a lot like what my Dealer's Service Manager told me. I remember ping from some of my older cars, and I remember putting premium fuel in them which also stopped and/or prevented another by-product of using a "less capable" gasoline -- "engine run on." You know, you turn off the car and it keeps running.

    Anyway your explanation was great!

    I was hoping that perhaps I could use cheaper fuel -- we are anticipating going over $2.00 a gallon this week here in SW Ohio. But, my dealer and you have once again confirmed that Audi's really do need premium juice. Maybe someday -- put some water in the tank and presto chango Hydrogen Power!
  • I just bought a 2001 2.7T. Dealer recommended I purchase a K-40 radar system (front & rear system). But at $565 installed (removable upon sale or return on expiration of lease), I would like some advice from experience of others with both hard wired radar systems vs. removable wired & wireless systems. Comments?
  • gs4rx3gs4rx3 Posts: 25
    I used several different Whistler and Bell detectors with very little satisfaction. They provided too many false positives (which you get used to ignoring on frequently traveled routes) and a few times false negatives (which resulted in two tickets). The tickets combined with the wires hanging down and poor socket connections led me to purchase a K40 UN3000SWL (UN=undetectable, SW=super wide band with L=laser). I have both front and back detectors, which tells me from where the radar is coming.

    I think the K40 is slightly superior in decreasing false positives and to date I have encountered no false negatives. I have no tickets since buying the K40, but have decreased my speed countless times to avoid tickets. The laser detector is worthless unless you have a laser defuser (an additional item), which actually allows you up to 7 seconds to lower your speed while "soaking" up a direct laser hit from a trooper laser gun. Without it, you're dead once a laser hits you - it provides instant readout to the trooper with pinpoint accuracy. Few states have put out the money to buy the laser guns, so you may not need to address it.

    The only radar detector that I have tried that I do believe is superior to the K40 is the Valentine One. The only drawback is that it's not a hard wired system and it is one of the bigger units on the market (because it has front and back detection). The Valentine is superior because it not only tells you the direction, but also the number of signals. That helps you avoid passing the local supermarket on your daily commute and thinking the reading you're getting is just the electronic doors, when in reality, there is a cop on the side of the building. Fortunately, to date, I have not been burned by ignoring the signals I get from all the supermarkets and alarm systems. I do wish, however, that K40 would provide an indication of the number signals being received. The Valentine is cheaper than the K40 ($499, I believe, only sold direct).

    If you don't mind the large unit and the wires, get the Valentine. If you want a unit that's almost as good, undetectable and effective, get the K40. The K40 should cost you (with negotiation) no more than $449 for the front UN3000SWL, $698 for both front and back (both prices include installation). Your $565 quote for both front and back is excellent - just make sure it's the UN3000SWL (there are other models). Get it in writing that the Audi dealer will remove it at no cost to you upon return and will not charge you for the 3 lights they will put into your dash.

    Most specialists can pull a K40 out of a car and put it into another for only $150. I have one in my Audi A6 4.2 and another in my Porsche Boxster S and would not drive without them.

    Hope that helps. For more Valentine opinions, go to the radar/lidor site here at Edmunds.
Sign In or Register to comment.