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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bob57bob57 Posts: 302
    In my past praise of the MPV I always complained the ashtray was too small - (pun) as I never had a problem with the van.
    The above posts did remind me that my two flat tires were a real pain with the spare. The first thought was "Where's the spare, I can't be this dumb?". The second one was "Who's the idiot that designed this?".
    We have no snow in Houston so salts corrosion is not a problem - it's laying down in a puddle half under the van getting the spare off the cable. I carry a jump suit in the van now just in case.
    And the ashtray is too small.....
  • I have a 1993 Mazda MPV 4x4, as soon as I click it out of 4 wheel drive into 2 wheel drive, it goes into 2wd and then right back into 4wd. I can't get it to stay in 2wd. Whats wrong with it???
    Thanks in adavance
  • sweet_subiesweet_subie Posts: 1,394
    enjoy the full time 4wd. just kidding !
  • burleyburley Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem. I have an '00 MPV that I just bought 2 weeks ago. At first the noise would only happen after I got to the first stop sign and after I accelerated, it would go away. However this morning, it was a little colder than normal, and it happened at almost every stop. Also, this morning was the first time I noticed the RPM's moving with the noise... Does anyone out there know what the IAC valve is and the cost of repair? (if that's what the prob is) I'm still under a 1,000 mile warranty from the dealership where I got the van but would like to know if it's worth the hassle or a quick fix.
    :)
    burleygirl
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    Repair cost at dealer could be around $200. You can probably buy the IAC valve itself for around $75, and many people have replaced it themselves - you can find details in other Mazda discussions. If you have warranty, you should definitely get it fixed under that. Mazda has a Technical Service Bulletin about it - 01-009/03 Foghorn/Moaning noise from engine compartment.
  • burleyburley Posts: 2
    I'm new to this forum stuff so thanks for spelling that TSB out for me...
    I just called my dealership and they said the part is $95 if I just wanted to change it myself... I think I'll be calling on that warranty. Thanks again.
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    If the van has rear heat, and has been in the snow belt, you might want to have the dealer check for corrosion of the coolant lines, particularly at the rear passenger side wheel well. Mazda TSB is 07-003/04 Corrosion on rear heater pipe. This is also a very expensive repair, and if at all you can get it taken care of under warranty, you will come out way ahead. The other corrosion related issue is the alternator, Mazda TSB 01-034/04 Battery charge lamp illumination, but they might not cover it unless there is an actual failure, because it is not obvious otherwise. Another pretty expensive repair, in terms of parts cost and labor cost.
  • heyu22heyu22 Posts: 1
    I have just had the same problem. I only have 40,000 miles on the vehicle. The cost for the part in Canada is $477 plus installation. My mechanic cut the cable, since the tire was part way down when the it broke. I can't find a used one anywhere. Any suggestions? I will pusure Mazda Canada.
  • bkkjackbkkjack Posts: 1
    I brought my 2000 MPV to Bangkok 4 years ago. It has about 55,000 miles and the check engine light has been on for awhile. My prior experience with this in Ca cars was that it was a emissions regulation and you needed to change the O2 sensor and have a dealer reset the light. Is there a way to just reset the light. I know that for some cars there is a sequence of turning the ignition on and off combined with pumping the brake pedal that will do it. Others need an expensive tool that only dealers and real mechanics can afford. Can anyone help?
  • garritsogarritso Posts: 1
    Any one had any experience with a clunking noise from the front suspension at LOW speeds? I have a 2000 MPV DX with 60,000 miles that recently started making this noise.
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    This is from another post, hopefully will help.

    You can unplug the negative battery terminal for a few minutes, then reconnect it. That will reset the codes and clear the check engine light.

    But if the check engine light comes back on again with the same code, then the only way to fix it is to replace the right rear O2 sensor.

    Even though the van drives fine, you still need to replace that sensor. When the check engine light is on, the computer runs in open loop mode. The open loop mode runs the default air/fuel mappings. The default mappings run richer than normal. Over time, the rich air/fuel mixture will ruin both the right and left pre-cats, it may take a year or two to happen, but it will happen. And that is an expensive repair. Also, running rich is going to reduce your fuel economy.
  • I have used many K&N filters and elements over the years in dofferent vehicles and have never had that happen. Maybe you developed a leak somewhere in your intake caused by something coming loose? Have you given the entire intake a visual inspection?

    Also curious, do you know what K&N part number you are using?
  • dhirddhird Posts: 3
    I can confirm the rave reviews by sweet_subie and mcspak on the Michelin HydoEdge tires. I put 17" on my 2002 MPV ES in November 2004 because I couldn't go into another Canadian winter with those crappy Dunlop banana skins and finding a true winter tire to fit seemed impossible. I was concerned that the HydroEdge would only be a 3 season tire, but was more confident after I saw how many stones the new tires picked up the first time I was on gravel. Now after a full winter I can endorse them for any weather on-road (even climbing to the ski hill). And in rain, these tires pass and out corner everything on the road. You should see the looks I get blowing their doors off in a minivan.
  • dhirddhird Posts: 3
    I seem to be going through headlight bulbs faster than I get haircuts! And when one daylight filament goes I know the other is within a week of going as well. In the last year, my 2002 MPV ES has averaged a pair of bulbs every three months. I've tried regular bulbs, blue bulbs, long-life bulbs with no real difference (though I think the blue bulbs do give better light). I'm getting to be quite experienced at the job of changing them, especially in the dark - even the driver's side where I loosened a cable that had a tie that used to scratch up my hand. Am I pounding these things to death on rough roads, or is anyone else having this problem?

    At 80K kms I waited 10 days for a new oil pan (stripped drain plug threads) and replaced driver's seatbelt claspe (wouldn't click closed every time). No other warranty problems since new.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Thanks for thirding that,,,err dhird. I had all but made up my mind to go with the Hydroedge...now it looks like it will be a unanimous decision.
  • mcspakmcspak Posts: 8
    Too funny! Good to hear you like them too, we ">get alot of rain here in Vancouver, so happy to hear they perform well in the rain!
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Posts: 278
    Here's the latest on my 'extended report'. 46K miles on her now.
    Had to take MPV back in due to the engine fan running ALL THE TIME! Sounded like a jet when I came to stop signs, etc. AND when I had the key off!! SECOND TIME I HAD THE CONTROLLER REPLACED - free under the recall again! But, how many times will this happen and then it will not be covered!
    Secondly, I now here a wheezing or squeak when turning the steering wheel! I had the local friendly Mazda dealer check THAT out as well and they just lubed the column....still makes this groaning sound. It's not the power steering either. I know what that type of sound is like. This is a groaning sound every time you make a turn, etc. Any ideas? Because the technicians are clueless...again! BTW: My front end squeak is still gone thanks to the suggestion of lubing the sway bar bushings...that only took 4 visits to the shop. Lovely vehicle though....when things are going good!
  • ewallewall Posts: 1
    We've had a rough idle on our 2001 MPV for a couple of years now. We took it to the dealership three times when it was under warranty and they fixed it, but only temporarily. We've now taken it to another mechanic twice - both fixes turned out to be temporary. We've had several different explanations but they most of them seem to have something to do with the ignition system/ spark plug wires. Does anyone have any idea what this problem actually could be? It's getting both frustrating and expensive.
    E :(
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Posts: 278
    Ok, here's the latest issue on my MPV with 46K on it. After the vehicle is warmed up, my steering wheel creaks when turning. Both directions producing a creaking sound. My local dealer greased it a couple weeks ago, but the sound still persists. Any ideas??
    I don't believe it's related to the power steering or belts.
  • bob57bob57 Posts: 302
    What was "fixed" before that turned out to be temporary? And how long did the "fix" last before the idle went south again?
    I need something to start with as a clue on this.
  • blouiedog1blouiedog1 Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm new to the board, and haven't really seen this problem before:
    Just a week or so ago, when I start the car it makes a high pitched whine - not too loud (yet). When press on gas it gets louder, step off- quieter, gas louder... Tends to go away as you drive or maybe just can't hear it when driving faster due to road noise. Really seems related to pressing on the accelerator. Any ideas?
    I'm still loving our 2000 MPV with 120,000 well travelled miles. Have only had a few problems in past:
    1. dealer replaced a recalled Air Intake Valve which was causing noise during cold weather (not like this though), and even some stalling.
    2. back sliding doors freeze up at times in winter - needed to replace a handle when husband pulled it right off - kids and I know to sneak thru the front - annoying, but can live with it.
    3. Check engine light came on this winter. Told I need a new catalytic converter for a mere $1000. Also told won't do any harm to drive, but may cause a problem at inspection time w/emissions. Still driving with it on, though ocasionally it turns itself off (like yesterday) especially in cooler weather. With 120K and inspection not till next Jan - figure I'll wait and see before spending that much. Let me know if any of you have had this problem, and if it is ok to drive like this.
    Thanks for the help!
  • geniedrothgeniedroth Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm new to this and needless to say very upset with Mazda. I have a 2001 mpv with 44,000 miles on it. On thursday I noticed for the 1st time the van wasn't handling properly so on friday morning I brought it into the dealership. Only to be told my transmission is shot completely and they want $3815 not including labor and taxes to replace it.
    2 weeks earlier I had it checked and the trans fluid was pink and full. No reason to do anything with it.
    I contacted mazda's 800 # and as of today no one from mazda has gotten back to me. Oh they were sure to tell me that I'm 4 1/2 months out of warranty!!!
    Any suggestions???
    Thanks
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    See if you can get a mechanic to isolate the source of the noise, but on my van I was told it was from the alternator. Mazda has a TSB about possible alternator failure from corrosion due to road salt in areas with severe snow and ice, and now they recommend the use of a shield. So far my alternator has not failed, but quite a few have had theirs go bad fairly early. It is an expensive repair.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    $3,815 not including labor? Thats kind of steep.Why can't they rebuilt it instead of replacing it? I would go to another dealer and get a second opinion on the transmission.Keep pressureing Mazda to at least split the cost of repair with you as it is ridiculous to only get 44,000 out of a transmission.
  • k203206k203206 Posts: 20
    I don't own an MPV, but the same exact problem occurred with my Mazda 626.
    I brought it to the dealer and they "greased" it :cry: , but did not fix the problem.
    Right before the 50K warrenty ran out , I brought it in again and they gave me an entire "new" steering wheel column. Never had the problem again, didn't need to pay for it because of the warranty. But the cost of the whole job was just under $1000.00 dollars. :cry:
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Posts: 278
    Well, my friendly north of St. Paul dealer had the MPV for two days - gave me an F150 Pickup with a V8 loaner gas hog - and STILL have not found the problem. Maybe, they should replace the steering column as was stated by K203206?!? They KNOW of the problem!! Mazda Central KNOWS of the problem, but have no fix yet. How can this be?? If the steering column is making the noise, why not replace that? They were going to replace the RACK and PINNION assembly, but MAZDA told them NO! It would not be the fix! So, it's documented, but not fixed yet! Can you beat this? Whatever!
    If MAZDA CENTRAL discovers the 'fix', it will be fully covered; no matter when...according to my friendly No. St. Paul dealer. How fun...not!
  • iseigaliseigal Posts: 1
    Hi;

    I saw your post. I have a 2000MPV with 33,000 miles, for towo years now, when I cold start the engine, I hear a loud humming, coming from the front end, more on the drivers side.

    It always occurs when the engine is cold, it can start by stepping onthe brake, shifting gears, or sometimes making a turn. It always goes away when the engine warms up. I have brought it into 3 shops and no one knows what it is. I changed the drive belt, but it didn't help.

    I have read threads here about the IAC. If anyone has a solid idea of what this is I would really appreciate it.

    Thanks
    Ira
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    It's an easy DIY job too, if you're so inclined. Not terribly expensive if you go to one of the online parts places either.

    -Brian
  • blouiedog1blouiedog1 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. When I brought it to a mechanic he found a cracking, slightly gunked up serpentine belt, and changed that. But I still hear the high pitch noise. Will have my alternator checked. By the way, what do you consider expensive? any idea how much this could run? just so I can have a heads up-can't do without an alternator obviously. Thanks again.
  • rms1rms1 Posts: 3
    I am experiencing the same hesitation/misfiring issue. Dod you have to replace the Mass Air Sensor or did just replacing the filter fix the issue?
This discussion has been closed.