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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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  • pernstpernst Posts: 2
    Actually, I just checked my brake fluid and it is low. Could this cause the "beep"?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,733
    Top off the brake fluid and see if it still beeps.
  • mbaitymbaity Posts: 1
    I'm having a similar problem. Does anyone know what causes this?
  • jimhefpghjimhefpgh Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 MPV with 75,000 miles. Changed the spark plugs about 3 months ago. That didn't fix the hesitation I get when accelerating. Actually the hesitation is there just about all the time. It feels like the engine is missing a beat every so often-hiccupping. The check engine light has been on for a while also. I have read about similar problems from other members on this forum - but have yet to see how they actually got it fixed.

    I remember reading one posting about a new coil pack fixing it.

    I'm trying to learn all I can before taking it to the dealer.

    Is there just one coil pack or is there six of them? How much does one cost?

    Thanks! This is a great forum!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Go to an automotive parts store and ask them to read the codes and post it on this forum. Someone will be able to help you.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Reading the codes is a good idea to help determine that it is indeed the issue with the coils (individual ones too). Did you have the PCV recall performed - if not, that could cause hesitation and a CEL as well.

    Elsewhere on the 'net I have read of a few owners replacing just the rear coils and not needing to do the fronts just yet. You may be lucky and only have one coil acting up, so you could try replacing one at a time as well.

    -Brian
  • dannyp3dannyp3 Posts: 2
    FOR THE LAST THREE YEARS I HAVE HAD MY DEALER TAKE CARE OF ALL MY ALIGNMENT, THIS TIME I TOOK IT TO SEARS AND I WAS SHOCKED TO HEAR THAT MY REAR ALIGNMENT WAS OUT OF WACK. SO I WENT THROUGH ALL MY PAST ALIGNMENT RECORDS, AND THIS IS WHAT I FOUND.

    YEARS TOE LEFT REAR TOE RIGHT REAR DONE BY

    2003 + 0.24 DEG + 0.10 DEG DEALER

    2004 + 0.28 DEG + 0.10 DEG DEALER

    2005 NO READING GIVEN TO ME DEALER

    2006 + 0.57 DEG - 0.36 DEG SEARS

    (SPECIFIC RANGE - 0.04 DEG TO + 0.32 DEG)

    AS YOU CAN SEE IT HAS BEEN GOING OUT OF WACK EVERY YEAR. WHEN I WENT TO THE DEALER TO HAVE IT FIXED I WAS GIVEN CRAP ON THE ALIGNMENT, AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY CANNOT FIX IT. THE CAR HAS NEVER BEEN INTO ANY ACCIDENTS, OR ANY MAJOR BUMPS, OR HIT ANY CURBS. ANY ADVISE GIVEN WILL BE VERY APPRECITED.

    P.S. ALSO MY THRUST ANGLE SHOWS + 0.46 DEG
  • viaductsviaducts Posts: 1
    Hi
    I'm interested in knowing which componets to remove and in which order. :) I'm hoping to change the spark plugs tomorrow.

    Thank You
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Been a while since posting here. I'm always afraid to see what the latest problem is with this unit! I still have my squeeky steering wheel issue and learning to accept that it's just normal.

    2 things.
    Anyone had a period of rough running and CHECK ENG. light come on after driving in severe rainstorms? This has happened to me 3 times now. Heavy rains and all of a sudden it starts to shudder and run rough; chk. eng. light comes on. After a day of drying out all is normal again!

    Has anyone noticed the sizable loss of power when using the AC on their MPV? I certainly do! Feels like it has no guts at all; need to thrust the gas just to get up to cruising speeds of 65 MPH. When I shut the AC off it seems just fine. Mine has 65K on it now. Almost reminds me of the days of having an old 4 cyl with air and how it would drag the power down. I thought those days were gone with this V6 engine!
  • mazda01mazda01 Posts: 1
    have a 2001 mpv lx when i shift into rev the trans shacks and shutters till i put i in forward anybody have the same problem and how did you fix it help :confuse:
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Have you had your check engine light checked for codes on the shudder and run rough problem?

    I have no power loss when using AC on my 2004 MPV.
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    I seem to remember a similar post on another MPV forum about problems after a rainstorm, and believe that it had something to do with a faulty seal around the coil packs (if it is 2002+ model), causing a water seepage. It had photographs etc., which showed the corrosion. Sorry, but Edmunds rules will not allow me to provide a link.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    No I have not because the light goes off after a day and I'm not close to a dealer to do the code check....darn!
    I would need to be driving in the rainstorm and pull into the dealer. I think it has something to do with the coil issue...is there a service bulletin on this??

    Thanks, TCC
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    isn't one of the tests using a spray bottle willed with water while the engine is idling? ;)
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    That's an obvious and interesting activity to see when it happens. I will give that a try this coming weekend. Thing is, I'd rather not have a coughing car for a day or so when I really need it...but it's the only way I'll find out what the problem is. I could also just call my local friendly dealer and see what 'normal' reply I get from them this time!!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    TCC, I'm not sure, but I believe it is not necessary for the check/service engine light to actually be on for the dealership to check it. If the light comes on, then the code for the malfunction is stored in the vans computer. So, even if the light goes off before getting to the dealership...the stored codes can still be read.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The codes should still be stored. You can go to most auto parts stores and they can read the codes for free. Some even give you a print out of the code.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    That sounds like a better plan. Would Checker Auto or Auto Zone be ones that could do this for a person? Somehow, I don't see these people able to go under the hood and work on this issue? They're more behind the counter types....??
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Autozone read the codes on my Buick Regal a few weeks ago when it was running rough(check engine light had come on)
    The Autozone salesman didn't go under the hood, they just attached the reading device to something under my dash...took about 30 seconds. I don't know if they would need to "go under the hood" on the MPV.

    Whatever the diagnostic shows, write it down and research to see if any further diagnostics is needed. I went to Autozone with my Buick, when they tested it my mass airflow sensor came up with a maulfunction. When I took it to the dealership to get it fixed, the dealership stated the diagnostic fee was $89.I stated I already had it diagnosed at Autozone. They stated it was just a general diagnosis and it really doesn't say how to fix it as there are a multitude of problems that could be related etc etc. So, they said they could replace the mass airflow sensor but couldnt guarantee that would fix it. So, I told them to go ahead and run the diagnostics again. They did and it was indeed the mass airflow sensor. If I had gambled I would have saved $89. But, at least I had the info going in so they didn't try to sell me a new engine or something.

    If Autozones diagnostics shows a faulty part...ask for a price from them. Dealerships will probably charge double for the part. If you know a mechanic who could put it in for you it could save ya some money. Good luck.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    So you paid to have your car diagnosed again? And I bet they still tried to sell you a new MAF (which you probably didn't need). Your dealership is right the code doesn't tell you how to fix something or what part is faulty. It tells you waht part of the engine is not operating properly. you still have to diagnose the problem. You should told him you had it scanned and the code was Pxxxx. Then he coudl diagnose it without the $89 charge.

    I had my MAF trip the check engine light in my Olds Intrigue. Got the car scanned and printed out the code (also clear the code). I posted on Edmunds and someone suggested cleaning the MAF first. So i spent 10 minutes cleaning the MAF and haven't tripped the check engine light in 8 months. this is why I suggested that the poster put the code on here first. Also get a print out if the store provides it.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Yes, I paid to have it diagnosed again. Dealership saying they would have to diagnose the "problem". I ended up paying over $300 for a new MAF sensor.

    After paying to have it replaced, I talked to a friend that said what you wrote. It could have been cleaned. Or, that it was a simple job (30 minutes) and he could have done it for me. It wouldn't surprise me at all if it didn't need replacement...though the car was hesitating, rpm fluctuating reguardless of throttle input...and cutting out on occasion. Yep, I should have been more patient and posted here or sought out others opinions before going to the dealership, maybe would have saved me some money.

    I should have asked for the part as well...would have helped me understand the problem, should it happen again in the future.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    it happens. The key thing is it fixed your problem and you a a bit wiser.
  • jimhefpghjimhefpgh Posts: 7
    Thanks to dtownfb and subearu for your advice. Also thanks to dtownfb for explaining how Autozone can read the codes on a check-engine light. That is awesome, I didn't know they could do that for free.

    That's what I should have done - instead I took it to my Mazda dealer and sure enough the problem was a code PO302 "misfire #2 cylinder". They replaced the coil just for that cylinder.

    They charged me $88 for the part and 127.50 for the diagnostic and labor to replace.

    Just out of curiosity, I checked at Autozone for what they would charge me for one coil - only $45!! So the dealer is charging about double what your local autoparts store is selling it for.

    Anyways, the van runs great now.
  • husker92husker92 Posts: 44
    Hello all, it has been a while (couple years) since I last posted.

    We have 2002 which has been pretty good to us, but recently it started shifting a little hard. My wife then called me this morning and said it was making a clunking noise and the O/D light was blinking.

    I searched the site and found some info, but it was all scattered and was answers to questions in previous e-mails that I couldn't see.

    Any info would be appreciated. :sick:
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    does your owner's manual address it? typically flashing the "D" indicator or "O/D" indicator is a means to alert an owner of a transmission system issue. hondas will flash the "D" indicator (there's no O/D off). other vehicles use other indicators.

    it could be that there is an issue with a vehicle speed sensor, or maybe one of the shift solenoids. some problem was detected probably by the TCM (Transmission Control Module). somewhere, I wager a diagnostic code or codes have been stored as to WHY it is flashing the light.

    and it seems probable that when the system is trying to get your attention like this, it will shift hard, perhaps not using the entire shift gearing on purpose, or because it can't. either way, that can't be good, right?

    i would think you'd want to seek out a dealership or an independant specializing in Mazdas. if it were me, i'd want to do this earlier rather than later as continuing to drive with the condition may increase the cost of repairing it.
  • I could really use some advice...I have a 2003 MPV ES that I brought new in 2004. Since that time, We have had at least 10 problems with the car, starting with our check engine light that went on a week after we brought it. Other highlights: Two months later, our antifreeze leaked and our radiator broke down and needed to be replaced. Then we've experienced the following: Loud tapping engine noise (required 4 trips to servie dept. to finally fix), leaky roof (service identified as dry rot in sunroof lining and replaced), sensor module that needed to be replaced as well as PVC hose (these two were recalls), CD player stopped working (took to repair this week and they returned the car with one speaker OUT!).

    The latest? Brakes are making a clunking sound when we use them. We were told the brake pads need to be replaced and they are not covered by warranty!

    Enough already! We've taken the car in at least every two months since we've owned it, we NEVER get a loaner (we have to drive back to our house with the tech and he drives it back to service). Then I called Mazda North America's 800 number and THAT was the most frustrating phone call!

    Service dept. had told me to get in touch with district manger via 800 number to discuss having the brakes fixed at Mazda's cost. Well, according to customer service line, the district manager (who they would not identify by name or give me contact info) is on vacation and apparently there's no one else who can help! They sent my message to a dealer rep but (and I quote) "I can't guarantee someone will return your call." I can't believe it!

    Argh!!! What can I do?!? Thanks for reading.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 979
    I've moved these posts to our transmission discussion here: Mazda MPV: Transmission Issues

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,733
    Does this mean that now we'll have a different discussion for each kind of problem on the MPV? Great. :sick:
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    About 3 or 4 weeks ago I started noticing 2 or 3 drops of oil on the garage floor showing up in slightly different spots (depending on where the van was parked) on a daily basis. I made an appointment to take the van to the stealership as it's still under warranty. I go pick it up when they got it done and like a fool, I drive it home before I read the comments on the service invoice. Written on the invoice was the following statement by the mechanic:

    "No leak found. Oil build up on oil pan flange and portion of cross member frame aparently from a sloppy oil change. Suggest talking to the person who does oil changes."

    While I do my own oil changes, and I'm usually pretty good about cleaning up after myself, I gave the mechanic the benefit of the doubt, and for a couple of days afterwards, the van was not dripping any oil. Then it started dripping again. I decided to pull the van up on my ramps and roll underneath on my creeper to take a look. I could clearly see a film of oil from the oil pan seal running down on the pan, and I could also see where the drops were forming before it dripped on the floor. I'm guessing the mechanic wiped as much of the oil off as he could, and it probably took a couple of days of leaking before it started dripping again. Why the mechanic tried to pass it off as nothing being wrong is anyone's guess. Maybe he thought I'd just decide to live with the leak. He thought wrong.

    I called the stealership again and made another appointment to take it back in. When I dropped it off, I showed the person checking in my van the invoice from my previous visit, and I explained that I went under the vehicle myself and saw that the pan seal was leaking. He called me about an hour ago and said the mechanic agreed with me that the seal was bad, but they didn't have a replacement in stock. They won't have the new seal until Monday. What automotive service center doesn't have something as common as an oil pan seal in stock? That's ridiculous! He said I could come pick up the van and take it back on Monday, or I could just leave it. I told them to keep it as the stealership is like 25 miles away. The good thing is the leak should finally be fixed properly. The bad thing is having to be without the van over the entire weekend. I'm sure everyone knows how much of pain in the wazoo it is to be without a vehicle for even a day. In the end, I will be happy if they fix the leak.
  • got a 98. tran fluid looks/ smells shot. first and second work fine. all gears above slip real bad. undrivable past 2nd gear.

    indicator light came on tonight.

    thought it was a sensor or vacuum.

    mechanic has not looked at it for a yr now.

    fluid was flushed then.was better, now much worse.

    in O/D, for a long time, when trying to speed up ( at hwy speed) it seemed to jump too far down like 3rd ( not 4th)

    now on the way home from 90 miles away, we barely made it.

    rogerrabbit, has your issue been resolved??? what was it???

    Anyone else, please??????
This discussion has been closed.