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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions



  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    The dealer ran scanner: they claim two codes: 1) #2 Coil= $360 parts/labor & 2) Transfer Range Switch= $400 parts/labor--- dont think I have a choice: will ask for a print out of the codes when I pick up the car
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    After hearing the noise for over 1year on our '02 LX; all of sudden after new tires on fronts; the car was completely out of alignment; three trips to dealer tying to align vehiclet; they decided to replace the steering rack and voila!!!---- no more squeaking andno more alignment issues.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Even MPV owner's manual does not mention about transmission oil change, my mazda dealer service manager advises flush the transmission and change the oil every 30,000 mile.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    "my service manager advises....every 30,000 miles"

    I'm sure he does. ;) But, it's my understanding that unless you are towing or engaging in other similar strenuous driving conditions a fluid change is not necessary. A visual inspection of fluid every 6 months should be fine.

    My dealer recommends an oil change every 3,000 miles. The owner manual recommends to change it every 7,500 miles.I change ours between every 4,000- 5,000 miles.
  • Hey all. I have a 2003 MPV with the single CD player/radio deck. My 3 year old dropped in 2 quarters into the CD slot... ah, the joys of kids! We got one out, but the other is in there and from what it looks like it's interfereing with the loading/unloading mechanism. Does anyone have an directions on how to remove the player/dashboard bezels so I can get in there and take a good look? Thanks!
  • I believe it is the same as my 2000 MPV. Take the two screws out above the speedometer. Then, there are about 9 clips that just pull out w/a little tug. What I did was put a rag over a screwdriver and started a the driver's side of the dashboard bezel and worked my way around. It was very easy. In order to get it all the way off, you will have to pull the transmission down to 1. Hope this helps.
  • Hey thanks. I saw those 2 screws that you mentioned and thought that those couldn't be the only things holding that bezel down. Knowing there are clips helps. Will let you know what I find.
  • stu17stu17 Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem. I got it to start and the engine light stayed on, so took it to my mechanic who read an air flow sensor error in the computer. Took it to Mazda where they replaced it (free, it's part of pollution control system, so under longer warranty than the rest of the car). A week later, same problem starting the car, even worse than before. Had it towed in and they have spent two days trying to find the problem. They reprogrammed the ignition but that didn't fix anything.
    Did your problem get resolved?
  • stu17stu17 Posts: 3
    I forgot to mention, I have a 2000 MPV LX with 65000 miles.
    The starting problem (cranks but won't stay running) showed up once months ago, but has gotten bad in the last month. Like others who have posted, I can keep it running by stepping on the gas. Also noticed the exhaust smells a little strong.
  • I had the same problem; had the Idle Air Control Valve replaced ($95 part at NAPA and $45 labor). Now it starts and stays running. Still having a "chugging" sensation when accelerating, though. Not sure what that one is.
  • stu17stu17 Posts: 3
    Thank you. I called the dealer this morning and suggested they try the bypass idle air control valve, as you and others suggested.. Eight hours later, the service rep called to say that they had found the problem, the bypass idle air control valve. Brilliant. They too charged about $95 for the part, $78 in labor.

    Important lesson learned: bring a description of the problem in writing and hand it to the service rep. The dummy at Alhambra Mazda (CA) listened to my full description of how the engine cranked, but would not hold idle. I could keep it running by stepping on the gas but it would turn off as soon as I released the pedal. Most often a problem when cold. All he wrote down on the service request was "Engine won't start. Advise." So the mechanics started with the computer, tried igniition reset and who knows what else. They had the car for 3 days. Tonight when I picked up the car, the mechanic -- the second guy to look at it -- said he tried starting it, stepped on the gas, saw that it would run until asked to idle, then new right away it was the idle valve. So the mechanic knew what to do and probably could have solved the problem in 10 minutes if he had been given some description of the symptoms.
  • The heat in my 2000mpv. LX suddenly stopped working. I took to it to the dealer, and I was told I needed a heater core, but then an outside mechanic told me to reverse the heater hose in the engine compartment, which I did, and the heater worked very well for a week, and then stopped working again. Now I have no heat, and it's the end of October, and We're getting into winter season. Has anyone experienced this? please let me know. I was told the vehicle being 5 yrs old should not have problem with the heater core at this stage.
  • Have them check the coils.....that was my problem.
  • I've been having the same problem. I actually changed out my coils this past weekend, and the problem is still there. Any other suggestions? I want this thing fixed so I can get rid of it. It has been a maintenance nightmare since I bought it.
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Posts: 278
    Awesome! Thank you for that info.

    The local friendly dealer has been procrastinating on this thing for 8months now and mentioned the rack, but said that Mazda Corp would not cover it.
    Did they cover your issue under warranty??

    They told me that this is 'normal' and that GM vehicles have the same issue!!!
  • I'm beginning to see a pattern here. I too have a 2002 MPV, just off warranty, with about 35K miles.

    It started to run rough so I took it to a local mechanic (not dealer) who diagnosed a misfire in one cylinder. Six new platinum plugs later (and a few hundred $$$) I'm on the road again.

    A few weeks later we have the same problem. This time they find water in one of the coils!?!? Several hundred $$$ more and I head home again.

    Two days later, the Check Engine Light comes on and it's running rough again. Now the mechanic advises that 2 cylinders are misfiring.

    I called the dealer and they professed to be unaware of any chronic problems with the '02 minivans.
  • Changed out plugs and wires over the weekend, and all seems well for now; however, I have a bad o2 sensor now! Always seems to be something!!!
  • (I bought my 92 mpv v6 about 1 yr ago, with 96,000 miles. No problems, besides buying 4 brand new tires. Now its at 106,000. Serviced regularly and gets full service at the gas station 2-4 times a month)

    My mpv has overheated once because of a radiator hose had a hole in it, a little smokey, replaced it, was all good.

    Now my van will overheat if its not filled with water. It needs to be refilled everyday. But when it is filled it starts up and can drive for atleast 100 miles before I have to put water again. But drives ok, still has power. I'm thinking my radiator is cracked. Boyfriend says blown head gasket. I say its not blown,...yet.

    [I had a 91 sentra that a friend was driving, overheated, majorly smokin', given time to cool off the car did not start up again. Had it towed, and my mechanic friend said "yep, its blown, alright...big job...".
    That is my experience with a blown head gasket, car=not driveable.
    My boyfriends brother also was driving his car, overheated, tons of smoke, pulled over, let it cool down, couldn't get it to start, left the car to be towed and never driven again.]

    (As far as I am concerned, blown head gasket = :sick: major damage, big expensive(to me) job, car cannot drive, must be towed and fixed before it is drivable again. Or is it that 2 out of 2 incidents was the extreme experience?)

    So,..... I need to know...

    After a blown head gasket, is the vehicle still drivable?
    If it is, would it run differently, would you be able to tell just by driving it? :confuse:

    Let me know if you need more info.
    Thanks so much for hearing me out.
  • bob57bob57 Posts: 302
    If you do not see water sitting under you van or water obviously leaking out somewhere then, yes, I would say it is a head gasket. The water pump is also a place to check.

    My, since traded, '92 MPV did the same thing. Radiator went south and it overheated immediately. I replaced the radiator but compression check showed the left head gasket had blown.

    Good luck!
  • my friend wants to buy it from me, I got a 94 78,000 miles :P . would $800 be too much to ask for it? he knows its condition and KBB say $1400 in fair condition.

    Should it be driving any differently? It feels just about the same, and no unusual sounds and the check engine light dont come on.

    Thanks for responding so quickly. Much appreciated!
This discussion has been closed.