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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Anyone out there try replacing the DRIVERS SIDE headlight yet?
    There are two corded wires that are taut and go in front of the rubber boot for extracting the bulb. I read the manual and there is no way that bulb is going to pop out the way it states. It's like they ran all the junk in the hood around after the bulb was put in and routed two large cords of wires right in front of the opening!

    Lovely, I'll need to PAY MY DEALER to install a stupid light bulb for $60 labor I'm sure!!

    Another stupid 'feature' on this vehicle that goes with the unbelievable bone-head design on the rear tailgate license plate lights. Wait until you need to replace them! The dealer went nuts trying to figure out that the inner panel had to be removed!! The lenses don't just 'pop out' like the manual states....again!

    Again, any experienced owners with this light replacement activity; please come forward. I'm all ears!!
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Posts: 90
    Dealer would be extreemly stupid if they did not try that yet, but try it anyway, to clean the contacts on the side of the sliding door and on the side of the B pillar as well (thos metal circular rods looking things).
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Posts: 90
    Quite crowded in the front for removing those headlight light bulbs, but the rear tale gate license plate lights pop out as described in the manual, but you have to be careful not to brake the plastic clip as I did, but nothing unfixable, I just used a tiny screw to fix that.

    image

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  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Thanks for the nice pics on the process. Again, the dealer had a problem removing those lenses and opted for taking out the inner panel on the tailgate to get at them. He did not charge for the replacement FOR THE FIRST TIME anyway!
    Yep, those headlamps are a pain!!
    Too bad newer cars are designed by great engineers who have never done the work themselves!! Job security for the mechanics for sure!
  • Whenever we have a foggy, high humidity morning, when the van is first started, it accelerates roughly in the lower gears, until the engine warms up. I don't know if the engine is missing or something else, but the vehicle is definetly under-powered initially until things heat up. Anyone else have this experience and been able to correct?
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    If you haven't done it already, a real mechanic would probably recommend new plug wires at a minimum and that it likely needs a full tune-up.
  • Thanks - just recently replaced the ignition wires, plugs and coil pack because of another unrelated issue.
  • dannyyodannyyo Posts: 14
    I have a 2003 MPV LX with the rear a/c & heat control. Just recently I've discovered that I can no longer control the temp of the air coming out of the rear from the front console. It seems that it only responds to the temp setting in the rear console. I can still control the fan level from the front for the rear vents but that's about all the control I have from the front. I know it used to work fine before, because my daughter would be in the captain chair and I'd give her either a/c or heat. Has anyone else experienced this prob. I should take it to the dealer since it's probably under warranty, but I've just been lazy. Also the A/C gives off a lot of smell when I first turn it on. It's an annoying smell, but it goes away after the a/c's been on for a little bit. Besides these 2 problems my mpv's been pretty reliable. Going on 34,000 miles.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    If your MPV was allowing you to control the temp from the front, that's an anamoly. The only control the front has is fan speed - and the AC since if it's on (or off) in the front, it's on (or off) in the back.

    RE: the AC smell: You can try cleaning the AC condensor with Lysol (or equivalent). I think there is a TSB for cleaning it. One way to help prevent it from happening is to turn off the AC a few moments before you arrive somewhere but leave the fan on to help dry the moisture that has accumulated.

    -Brian
  • So there I was needing a vehicle in better shape than I had and a friend says You know..... you can have my Mazda MPV. It has oil in the rad so probably has a blown head gasket. Oil is fine, compression is fine, works well except for oil in rad. Ok I take the van home and learn the joys of replacing the Head gaskets. Lots of advice from mechanic friends and followed the Haynes manual explicitly. Made sure the timing belt was just right connected all the tubing just the way it came apart. Checked the heads for flatness replaced all the gaskets and have the engine all back together again.

    Engine won't start. Cranks well no spark. Engine codes say prc solenoid and no ignition signal. Test PRC solenoid all OK, no spark. Find disconnected shutter valve actuator reconnect. Zero out engine cpu. Restart good cranking no more engine error codes still no spark. New plugs, new High tension wires all connected in correct places. No spark from coil. Test coil. Coil tests OK.

    So what do I do now?
    Is the Igniter prone to breaking, Is the CPU prone to breaking. Can the Igniter be tested. Is there anything I can do without taking it in to a dealer as money is an issue.

    Any suggestions?
    :confuse:
  • Hmmm not sure if your model has a distributor cap but if it dos sounds like it might be a moisture or condensation problem. I have a similar problem on my Volvo. I fixed it with a can of Ignition drying spray and then a can of ignition sealing spray from the local Canadian Tire. The first spray drys the contacts the second spray lightly seals the distributor cap and wiring to help prevent future problems. Happens a lot about 4 degrees C.
  • Is it really true that you can only control the fan speed from the front? If so, good thing I didn't take it to the dealer. I'd been embarrassed. I try the Lysol solution on the condensor. Thanks for the advise.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Yep, that's all it can do. The switch is for the fan speed.

    This switch allows variable fan speeds for the rear air-conditioner.

    0 — Fan off
    REAR — Select the desired fan speed with rear air-conditioner control panel
    1 — Low speed
    2 — Medium speed
    3 — High speed

    Turing the AC on up front will turn on the AC in the back. If the AC is off up front, it is off in back.

    -Brian
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Wondering how often you truly need to replace the plugs.
    They are platinum tipped and a buddy mechanic told me they should go for 100K miles! The manual/dealer wants me to replace them at 60K miles and it's running fine! My buddy stated that you should probably remove them to check the gap and reinstall!

    Also, anyone ever tried using an additive to clean the fuel injectors and fuel system? Again, my mechanic friend stated that once every 10K miles it is helpful to run a bottle of the 'chevron' fluid thru the tank. He stated that the 'dealer' wanting to charge 100 dollars to 'clean injectors' is a joke!

    Any opinions or ideas on these issues?
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    The 2000 MPV I recently traded in at 112K still had its original plugs, and it ran fine. The only thing I had done is replace the air filter a couple times.
  • It was said at other place, that all dealer does is probably running some liquid through it too, or if they would trully clean it, they would have to take it all apart to clean it, which is time and work consuming.

    It was said, that just buying the bottle of the injector cleaner does good enoughy job to keep it clean, and it's way less expensive than doing it at the dealer, so go for it, they sell like 4pack at Costco of this stuff (in case you are a Costco member).
  • If you go to the local car parts store, look for the SeaFoam brand of cleaner. It can be added directly to the gas tank, or can be injected directly into the throttle body/air intake manifold if you really know what you are doing. Most of the other off the shelf cleaners I saw were strictly advertised as gas tank additive types. The guy a spoke to the store recommended this product as being superior. And no, it doesn't cost more!
  • Help! Anyone know a solution for this problem? My 2000 MPV has failed MD emissions inspection 5 times -- not for excessive emissions but because the van can't communicate with the test equipment. Briefly: after passing at least once, the van failed inspection because the on-board emissions monitor couldn't communicate with the test station equipment. Took it to the dealer, who said it was communicating fine. Failed inpection again and again until my case was "elevated" to a DEP person who said there had been a recall to reprogram the PCM (?). When I bought the van as a certified used vehicle, they said all recalls had been done -- obviously not. Got the recall done. Failed again. All the emissions folks could offer was a waiver so I would be legal until June, when I fully expect the van to fail again. What should I do? Obvious answer is to go back to the dealer, but they've been of zero use so far...don't see any reason to think that will change.

    Other than that, we love the van. It has about 60,000 miles on it, mostly trouble free, though we've had to replace a couple of obscure parts (who knew it had a clock spring?).

    Thanks in advance...
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    A 2003 post in another MPV forum mentioned the same problem, but it was apparently due to the test station not having the proper software to communicate with the MPV. I doubt that this would be the case here in 2006, but might be worth asking.
  • yah, just try to get the smog terst done in other place if you were going to the same place over and over before, the problem could be on their side
This discussion has been closed.