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Dodge Intrepid

19798100102103111

Comments

  • I heard the evaporators go bad very quickly. especially in trucks. sounds like poor material.
  • From my 99 shop manual
    Headlamps do not illuminate
    1 No voltage at headlamps-------Repair open headlamp circuit
    2 No ground at headlights-------Repair circuit ground
    3 Faulty Headlamp switch--------Replace headlamp switch
    4 Faulty dimmer switch----------Replace headlamp switch
    5 Broken connection between
    BCM & headlight lamp relay----Repair broken connection
    6 Faulty parking/headlamp relay-Replace relay
    7 Faulty body control module----Replace body control module

    The ground is the black lead from the headlights.
    The relays are located in the fuse box accessed by opening the driver door and opening the cover on the side of the dash.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Thanks for the response dodgeram2...albeit three months later. I suspect if the evaps were that poor it would have surfaced long before 140,000 plus miles. The only thing I've seen in particular was that certain evaporators on earlier minivans were placed in a way that road debris could bounce up and hit them......sounds strange but apparently true. I was prepared for some repairs after 100,000 miles. In any event, I'm in a 07" Pacifica now and enjoying the extra room...
  • I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid ES with about 105,200 miles. i do know that my back breaks are 90% worn and am saving up to fix them. but i have noticed now when i i turn that the steeting wheel squeeks and its kinda high pitched and annoying....does anyone know what this is!???
  • HELLO! I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY 98 INTREPID. 2 WEEKS AGO WHEN IT WAS VERY COLD OUTSIDE, MY BLOWER MOTOR PROCEEDED TO BE STUCK ON HIGH. AS LONG AS THE CAR IS ON MY BLOWER MOTOR RUNS ON HIGH SPEED. I CAN'T TURN IT OFF, I CAN'T TURN IT DOWN. I REPLACED THE AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL UNIT AND IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANKS
  • I have found the following websites very helpful and informative and just wanted to pass them on to fellow Intrepid owners who have had these problems or should at least know about them. The link below is about a potentiall major safety issue I myself have experienced.

    For those having Dodge Intrepid, Chrysler Intrepid and Chrysler Concorde 2.7L Engine Problems

    Dodge, Chrysler 2.7L Engine Problems Information and how Consumers Can Fight Back

    Dodge, Chrysler Intrepid, 300M, Concorde, LHS Defective Steering, Premature Problems and More
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    These two sites have been mentioned before and largely discredited because of the inaccurate information.
  • joho4241joho4241 Posts: 4
    I need HELP...
    I have a 96 Dodge Intrepid and the air bag light cames on and when it is on I cannot put the windows up or down.. and the dashboard gets really hot.. after the light goes of the window controls will work...anyone out there with any info?
    :confuse:
    joho4241
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,106
    well, it looks like my '00 Intrepid is finally getting its first fairly costly repair. It's at the shop now, and I'm looking at about $1000. That's including new front brakes/resurface rotors, new transmission lines (turns out theres THREE of the danged things that run to the radiator, and it's a dealer-only part. :mad: ), a new bearing hub (I think that's what my mechanic called it) in the front right wheel, rotating the tires, checking/adjusting the back brakes, and changing the coolant/hoses.

    Still, the car does have 130,000 miles on it now, and a lot of that is just maintenance crap (brakes/coolant flush/rotate tires), so I guess that's not TOO bad. The mechanic was actually telling me that I could hold off on the coolant and hoses, but I wanted them done. I had the coolant changed back in August 2003, with about 86,000 miles on the car, but they said the hoses should hold out until 150,000 miles. However, back then I drove a lot more than I do now, so 150K miles isn't coming up as quickly as I originally thought it would. And I'd rather err on the side of caution than risk muffing up the engine just to save a few bucks in the short term.

    Still, it's amazing how far coolant/hose rubber technology HAS come. Sure beats the hell out of the old days when you had to change EVERYTHING every 3 years/36K miles!
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Andre, sinking $1000 into your '00 doesn't sound so bad. doing it should keep your I going for a long time. I think you are right about doing the hoses since you are redoing the coolant at this time. Why take a chance of melting all that aluminum? What happened to the transmission lines? Did they corrode (?rust) or what? My '99 has only 114,000 so I want to know about what things I might be facing. Of course, age and not miles can do things to the rubber in the hoses and belts. You are correct, the rubber, including tires have gotten much better since the old days. Everything has been done on mine by the book since new in February 1999. Keep up the good work!

    Ed :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,106
    The transmission lines on the Intrepid are rubber, and supposedly it's common for them to leak. Mine very well could have been leaking for awhile now, but I didn't actually notice it until back in March, when I was under it changing the oil. It was never enough to actually leave a puddle though, or show a noticeable drop in the fluid level.

    The cost to replace them was about $300. I'm not sure exactly how they attach. At the radiator, it looked like they were just attached by a hose clamp, like what you'd see on a radiator hose, heater hose, bypass hose, etc. But at the transmission, they had actually fused onto it somehow, and the mechanic had a helluva time getting the old ones off. The lines are a manufacturer-only part too, so they were more expensive than aftermarket.

    I've heard that sometimes the transmission hoses on the 'Trep would practically start leaking on the showroom floor, so I guess if we've made it up over 100,000 miles with my '00 and your '99, we should consider ourselves lucky!

    And, hopefully, my Trep shouldn't need anything else for awhile. It's at 130,000 miles now and I figure it'll need new rear brakes around 150,000. It needed them at 51K and 102K, so I guess that should be about right. I'll probably do the belts then too, and the spark plugs. Oh, and the tranny service. But, at the rate the miles are getting put on, that's probably at about a year and a half away.

    And one of these days, I guess I'll need new tires. I had a set of Yokohama Avids put on around 76,000 miles, and the two that are still on there look like they have plenty of tread. Two of the tires are mismatched though, because one got ripped off, wheel, lugnuts and all, in a parking garage back in October, and the other got popped and replaced in December. So now I have two Yokohamas with 54K on them, a junkyard wheel/tire off an '02 with an Eagle GA and unknown mileage, and a brand-ew tire from Sears, the brand I forget.
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    My wife's 2000 Intrepid is due an oil change today-66000 miles. I will look for any leaks again. It was all pretty dry last time, with no drips anywhere on our garage floor. We also have Yoko Avid touring tires with about 30000 miles on them and will probably replace them before next winter. Or buy a couple steel wheels for two cheapo snows. I have as yet had no luck getting a complete set of alloys from a junkyard. Do you have any particular tire in mind- I am not so happy with the Avids, but the price was good.
    I am surprised to read that you are getting the rotors resurfaced. I put Brembo premium rotors on our car for short money when I did the brakes at about 50000 mi. Did not seem worth spending any money on the old ones. Ceramic pads last well but are a little harsh on the rotors.
    I would spend 1000 on my car without a thought of trading it....but when it comes time to replace the battery again I might have second thoughts!!!!!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,106
    I have as yet had no luck getting a complete set of alloys from a junkyard.

    I thought about getting a set of alloys for my Trep. Back in October, when I was scrounging in the junkyard looking for a wheel/tire to replace the one that got ripped off my car, I saw a wrecked Intrepid with alloys. I think it was an SXT. Unfortunately, one of the alloys was smashed. I thought about just trying to buy the three and then keep on the lookout for a 4th, but decided not to.

    Do you have any particular tire in mind- I am not so happy with the Avids, but the price was good.

    I really haven't thought about what kind of tires I'm going to buy as replacements. Main reason I bought the Yokohamas was a combination of high treadwear rating (620) and low price (~$250 for a set of 4, delivered, bought from Tirerack.com or Discount Tire or one of those places). The two remaining Yokohamas on the car have about 53,000 miles on them now, and look like they still have plenty of tread left.

    I am surprised to read that you are getting the rotors resurfaced. I put Brembo premium rotors on our car for short money when I did the brakes at about 50000 mi. Did not seem worth spending any money on the old ones.

    Yeah, I was surprised that the mechanic resurfaced the old rotors, too. He said it was still cheaper than putting new ones on, although they won't be able to do another resurfacing on them. I'll confess though, that I last did the front brakes and rotors myself, at around 99,000 miles, and used cheap parts. I think the front pads and rotors only came to about $84. So I guess I shouldn't complain! My mechanic put factory pads on the car, and I think he would've used factory rotors as well, so it probably would've been pretty pricey. I remember though, getting about 40,000 miles out of the original front pads, so maybe these factory pads will get me about that many, too. So that'll put the next brake job off, hopefully, until about 170,000 miles. Probably at least 3 years, with the mileage that car gets put on it these days.

    but when it comes time to replace the battery again I might have second thoughts!!!!!

    I changed the battery myself, about two years ago. The orignal battery still seemed fine, but at that point I'd had the car for about 5 1/2 years, and was about to take a trip to Florida, so I didn't want to chance it. It took about two hours for me to change that battery, along with some bruises, scrapes, and spilled blood! I swore to myself that I'd trade the car before it came time to put another battery in it! :surprise:

    But, I'm going to keep the car as long as is feasible. Now, if the transmission craps out on it, I'd probably ditch the car. And if the 2.7 decides to die, it's definitely outta here! If it was lower-mileage I might consider replacing, but not at 130,000+ miles.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    I had a problem with my Grand Caravan trans lines. I replaced them myself with parts from the dealer. When I checed my Intrepid the lines on it were loose too. I tightened the clamps at the radiator and so far (three years) no leaks.
  • 911man2911man2 Posts: 8
    My elderly father has given up his license and has stopped driving his car about 18 months ago--it has been sitting ever since. It has about 30k mi. The body has some damage--nothing major...does not affect driveability.
    What needs to be done to get this car going again. Battery is dead so I can't start it until I replace it.
    Worth fixing up or should I sell it?
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Gosh, it is just broken in! It's up to you whether to fix the body or sell. If you need a good car for a little money, fix it. To get it going again, just change the oil, are your sure the battery is shot? It may very well still be good just needs jumped and charged. Change the oil in that 2.7 regularly and that car should be good for years. :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,106
    I agree. One other thing I'd add though, is to change the transmission fluid if it hasn't been done already. And try to do it regularly around every 30,000 miles.

    Has the coolant been changed? While that car is very low mileage, at roughly 8 years old, if it's the original coolant it's well past its expiration date and should be flushed. You might want to also check the condition of the belts and hoses.
  • 911man2911man2 Posts: 8
    Well--I put in a new battery ( what a fun job! ) and even with a tank full of 18 month old flat gas it started first try and idled as if it was just driven yesterday! I'm impressed. Woody Allen , eat your heart out!
    Drove it around for a while.....seems OK. Brakes appear to be rusty and making sounds--fronts only.
    Now that I can see the odometer I see it has only 28K miles....
  • rehmborehmbo Posts: 2
    on my 98 2.7 intrepid, my intake fuse blew out and will not let me go into reverse with out blowing out again, but will let me drive forward! i replaced the fuse and tried again but blows every time! any one ever run into this problem!?!? please help
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    The battery placement in these things will make a preacher swear when trying to change it! Change oil, filter, trans fluid and coolant. The brakes should still be good, and the noise should clear up after the rotors are cleaned up with a few good stops. Although it is possible that a caliper is stuck. Keep us posted on progress.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,106
    The brakes should still be good, and the noise should clear up after the rotors are cleaned up with a few good stops. Although it is possible that a caliper is stuck. Keep us posted on progress.

    Yeah, especially if that car was driven fairly moderately, the front brakes should have plenty of life left in them. Just as a reference point, I had to change the front pads on my 2000 Trep around 39,000 miles. But that was maybe 15 months after I bought it, and most of that mileage was pizza delivery driving, which is downright brutal on a car's brakes. Lots of speeding up, stopping, etc. Sometimes going 200+ miles in a single night, but usually just 1-2 miles at a time.

    I bought some front pads from the auto parts store when the car had about 15,000 miles on it. On a lot of the old battlercruisers I'd owned before this car, I'd often only get 10-15,000 miles out of the front brakes, so I just bought them out of habit. Checked the front brakes, and saw they had plenty of meat on them, so I just threw the pads in the trunk and kept them until it was time. I think I checked again a few more times, maybe every 5,000 miles or so. I think I was rotating the tires at 39,000 miles, and that's when I noticed the front pads were finally wearing thin. Oddly, it was just one of them, the outer pad on the passenger side. It was wearing unevenly, and almost down to the metal on one corner, yet where the wear indicator was located, it wasn't rubbing yet. :confuse:
  • kmausskmauss Posts: 74
    Hello again! I posted a message back in February about my 2000 RT which I do still have. And I'm STILL debating how much longer to hang onto it. It's having some engine issues now, which, when I describe them to my mechanic, he says they sound like either a fuel pump going bad or the beginnings of electrical/ transmission issues. :cry: I have an appointment in about two weeks. But I'm curious who else has had the same thing and what the outcome was.

    Symptoms -- happens mostly at highway speeds. When I step on the accelerator, I feel hesitation, lack of power, sometimes almost a shudder down in the engine. Does not happen all the time, but is happening with greater and greater frequency. Engine is also generally running very rough, shifting not well, etc. Have had all scheduled maintenance done on it for the seven years I've owned it.

    What's anyone think? Thanks! Karen
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    is the check engine light on?
  • kmausskmauss Posts: 74
    Not yet..... (My mechanic asked me that one immediately).

    At this point, it's more that I drive the car every day, and have done so for seven years and I KNOW something's wrong. I just hope it will misbehave for him so he doesn't think I'm crazy. :surprise:
  • rehmborehmbo Posts: 2
    i think im going threw the same!are you blowing threw fuses like crazy too? i have a friend who thinks it the fuel injector going bad, im having it looked at Thursday. let me know what you find out PLEASE
  • kmausskmauss Posts: 74
    No, nothing with fuses. I don't have an appt for two weeks yet, but I will try to remember to post his findings. Do me a favor and let me know what you find out too. Thanks. :)
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    Used the wife's 2000 Intrepid for a few days to get to work while my car got some new parts. 345 miles.....$31.50 with gas at $2.92 a gal. Not bad at all for a big car cruising at 75-80. Caught myself doing 90 a couple times until I smarted up and set the cruise control.
    Seven years and still impressed with this car. Always wondered why sales did not support keeping the LH cars alive. I test drove a 300 and was not really pleased, also RWD!!! just not as practical in winter as FWD.
    Hope we can keep this car for at least another 5 years.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Ol' 1999 and new 2006

    tkfitz, I agree

    Our '99 has been good, a big comfortable car with a great big trunk and lots of back seat leg room. We cruised it up and down the highway for many years, and it will roll when needed. It had been our main family car until we turned it over to our son, who will be taking it away to college with him in the fall. With the rear seats folded down, his surf board fits in nicely. The only troubles over the 115,000 miles have been with an AC that had to be rebuilt and both radiator fans shorting out and needing replaced.

    The main family car is now a 2006 300C. Yes it is RWD, but then it doesn't snow here, so that doesn't matter to us. Certianly it would not be as good in the snow, but there is an AWD version available for that. It is certainly more powerful (we went for the Hemi), but also more gas using. The rides is more solid than the Intrepid's. It has a few shortcomings in the size of the trunk (smaller than the Intrepid's and actually a little less leg room in the rear seats.

    Regarding Chrysler going to new models-- I think that they think only new model names sell well. (unlike Accord and Camry). If you ever notice the ad campaigns for the GM, Ford, Chrysler cars--they are always about the new models and the ones that have been around a few years are not advertised at all. Honda and Toyota have good publicity for solid cars (although certainly not as much better than domestics as the majority of consumers think) and kept the basic structure and the name and just keep on improving them.

    Yes, keep enjoying the Intrepid. Ours has served us well, and I hope will continue to do so for many years.

    :shades:
  • We have a 97 3.3 liter Intrepid that runs like a charm once it has warmed up to a certain point. When you first start the car it will run for about 5 minutes then stall, so we start it, it stalls again, over and over - sometimes up to 15 times re starting it until it reaches a certain temperature where the engine is warmed, once it reaches that temp. it will run all day, unless you shut it down and leave it set for about 2-2 1/2 hours and it completely cold down, then the problem starts over again until you warm it up again. Does any one have a clue what to replace here or what the fix might be on this issue? I have been having to warm this car up for at least 20-25 min each day for over a year even in warm weather, I would be extremely grateful if anyone can figure this out!
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    I have a few guesses: I would wonder about the fuel pump in a situation like that. Another thing: electrical? Plugs new? Wires in good shape? After all, this is a 10 year old car. :shades:
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