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Dodge Intrepid

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  • daviddavid Posts: 2
    I am getting a smell of antifreeze in my car but the windows are not steaming up and there is no sign of leakage and the antifreeze dont seem to be going down.
    seems wors when you first start the car up i have lots of heat if any one has any ideas PLEASE help me . thank you David it is a 1994 intrepid
  • If there is no leak inside the car then there may be a hole in one of the hoses and it only leaks when you build up pressure. Thats where I would look first. Monitor the coolent level. Is the any white smoke comming from the exhaust? If this is to be then you have a blown head gasket and coolent is getting into the cylinders. Check around the heads of the engine for leaks.
  • daviddavid Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply ,i was'nt loosen any coolant i could just get a strong smell of coolant in the car .now i've let the car set in the garage for the past two days thanking of tearing the dash out to get at the heater core .i decided to start the engine first and when i did now more smell.not shore what happen i just hope it stays like that. thanks again for the reply.

    dave.
  • I wonder what the average cost to replace the water pump, belts, and plugs on a 1995 Dodge Intrepid. I had a friend do it, and I think he is way overcharging me, so if I could get some rough estimates from anyone I would appreciate it!
    Thanks, Vikki
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    The cost for doing this with a mechanic's shop is $500-$700.
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    We now have about 85000 mi on the old girl. I just put in a new battery and rear pads and rotors. Fronts will be due by 100000. Brakes were easy to do, the second time with the battery really was not that bad at all. I need to take the drivers side door apart to take a look at the power lock. Makes a squeak sometimes when it is locked or unlocked. Anyone here who has taken an intrepid door apart who can give me advice on the easiest way to take the door panel off? There are usually clips on the bottom on car doors, but I do not want to force anything going in blind.
    The car still runs very well.......wish we could buy a new one!!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,892
    How hard was it to do the rear brake pads? I've done the front pads on my 2000 Intrepid, and ended up having to replace the rotors around 99,000 miles, back in 2004. The front brakes were a cinch, but I've always been afraid to mess with the rear brakes.

    I had the mechanic do my rear pads around 51,000 miles, and again around 102,000 miles, so if I keep up that rate, I guess I'll need them again around 150-155,000 miles. I'm at around 144K now, and don't really drive like I used to, so that's at least a year off.

    I've never had a door panel off, but if you do find out how to take yours off, please post it here! The power lock in the left rear door of my car went bad. It'll lock okay, but won't unlock. I just never bothered to mess with it, because it's not that often I use the back seat of the car. I'm a bit leery of trying to mess with it myself, but one of my friends said he could probably do it.

    Overall, I've been happy with the car. I do get bored with it from time to time, but whenever I look at what's out there now, there's not really anything that excites me...at least not in the same price range that my Intrepid originally was.

    If Chrysler was still building the Intrepid, I would probably consider getting another one!

    Oh, as for the battery, I replaced mine back in May 2005. It still seemed fine, but the car was 5 1/2 years old by that time, and I was about to take it on a long trip, so I didn't want to chance it. I had a hell of a time replacing it, and swore that by time it needed replacing again, I'd either be rid of the car, or break down and just pay someone to do it! :sick: Admittedly though, it took me awhile to figure out how to get to the battery, so I wasted a lot of time messing around with it. So the second time around might not be as bad.
  • the radio display does not light,radio does not work, but on the bass & treb buttons , the light in the buttons constantly blink. i ck the fuses , i have no clue. pls-help, thx, james
  • bobe4bobe4 Posts: 12
    I am with you. I love my Intrepid and if they still made the Intrepid in the style of the 2000 I would have bought one last year. My 2000 has about 156K and is running great. I sometimes wish I had upgraded to a 2004 before they quit the line.
    Not being an adventuresome person I had my battery replaced a year or so ago at $45 for the labor.
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    Rear brakes were a cinch. Couple bolts for the calipers, tapped the rotors and they came right off. I was worried about the drum brake shoes holding back the drums, but no problems there. I did not have a set of shoes to replace them with so I was glad I did not have to do anything other than clean them with a little brake spray. Rotors were about $40 each, pads were $30. Cheap enough. If you did the fronts ....the rears are even easier!
    Battery was not really bad-experience from the first time was key. Did not waste any time messing around, just took off the air filter housing to start with. Then everything is right there. Battery still comes out the wheel well.
    I am checking other sites to see about the door. Should be simple, but as all the fastners are hidden a little advance know how will prevent having to replace clips etc...
    I test drove a charger some time back. I was a base unit with the 2.7. Nice enough car, not as roomy, but seemed to handle and ride well. Rear wheel drive is the killer for me. My wife drives the car more than I do and would not deal with it well. I do not want to redo the snow tires and weight in the trunk thing from all those years ago. AWD just uses too much gas for me, so that is out too.
    We are going to keep this car as long as its practical to do so.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    "I've never had a door panel off, but if you do find out how to take yours off, please post it here!"

    Andre, I've had both driver and passenger side panels off to fix the broken window clip. Things I learned: there are a number of Phillips head screws holding the panel on in hidden places. One these are loose, it comes off, but then you need to disconnect the electrical plugs that fit into the door. Really not a bad job. :shades:
    Ed
  • i have a 97 3.3 dodge intrepid and the problem i have is that it always shuts down after it warms up? i changed the shutdown relay as well as the fuel relay and the coilpack, so now it still does shutdown after it warms up, i dont get it? could it be the fuel pump or something else, i checked the fuel pump to see if it was working and it seems so, well can anybody help me? my email is ilovebigred@hotmail.com. email anytime, thank you.......me :sick:
  • OK, Here goes... my car is past due on both inspection and registration. keeping that in mind, i had to replace the MAP sensor due to check engine light. While i had everything apart cleaning the throtle body, i chose to disconnect the battery and clean the terminals so i could get rid of the annoying pulse i was getting with all my lights. After the new muffler, and parts, i knew the vehicle had to be ran for an unknown time before inspection so i put the car on stands and ran it for 102 miles. Took it to get an inspection and still failed due to the battery being disconnected. So my question is this, What if any is the series of events to reset the pc so i can pass inspection? or do you know of a fun little helicopter ride i can take my car on and drop it over the falls?

    :confuse:
  • Will it restart after it shuts down?
  • What state do you live in? If your talking about resetting the codes it can be done at any Autozone for free. They will come out and hook hook up the OBDII code reader it has an erase button.
  • I have a 99 Intrepid and I had to recharge the battery before going for my inspection. The inspector told me that all codes are lost when the battery is disconnected or recharged, It failed! He told me to drive it for a week and come back. I did (without disconnecting or recharging) I then passed.
  • My power steering isnt working, i have enough power steering fluid in there, but its kinda difficult to turn the steering wheel when im moving any slower than 37MPH, it works just fine anytime I'm going faster than that (37 MPH). If theres anyone out there that has a solution please tell me something. Keep in mind I have a 1998 Intrepid. Thanks.
  • I was warming my car up as the temp had dropped from say 50 down below 20 outside and gettin ready to leave. I pulled out of the drive way made it about 2 and a half blocks when my car suddenly shuts off. The lights radio etc is still there no engine running now and it was in gear. Now the car wont start. I have checked the relays for fuel pump and asd and they seem to be fine, when cranking rpm's show up on the tach (supposidly tells if cam/crank sensor is working?) what i want to know is what is more likely the issue at hand... if its the fuel pump can anyone describe the sound i should be hearing when it is charging ? because i replaced the fuel filter so the line should have been drained so i would expect to hear it charge it up and what not or is it more likely a timing issue... it will try and turn over and every now and then kick for a second but no long er than that any suggestions/help advice would be most welcomed and appreciated
  • Ok so i have replaced fuel filter checked alternator replaced fuel pump swapped out relays. The car acts like it wants to start but will not start and run... it will rev to about 500 rpm in one attempt and just not run... anybody have any idea of possible things i can look for? if it were the timing belt what would i want to look for or listen for? if its ignition issues say spark what would i look for or listen for any help please
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    I have had the same problem with my 99. Dealer replaced Cam or crank position sensor can't remember which. Car stars and runs fine now.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,892
    My mechanic replaced both of those sensors on my 2000 Intrepid about a year ago. The car started stalling out at random. At first it was pretty infrequent, and sometimes, if I caught it in time, just letting off the gas pedal and feathering it a bit would stop it. Someone in this forum (I'm too lazy to look it up now, heck it could've been you) mentioned that the problem would probably only get more frequent with time, and eventually the car wouldn't re-start at all. And sure enough, it did!

    It ended up costing around $520 or so to replace both sensors, and the car has been fine ever since. Well, for the most part. The a/c compressor seized up the other week, and ended up sending shrapnel throughout the entire system. Cost around $1300 total to fix. But at least I'm ready for summer now! :shades:
  • 12pops1212pops12 Posts: 2
    Has anyone used a miller tool to refill the coolant. it says on the overflow jug to use one , it is impossible to fill without this tool .
    where can i get one and how does it work ?
  • I replaced the cam position sensor for 46 bucks, the car will start and run now BUT....

    Ok i have a new issue apparently, there is a strange noise coming from below the timing belt cover around the pulley... its a rather disturbing noise only wayi can describe it is well it sounds like belts slipping but i checked the belts and they should not be slipping for any reason... but thats the best way i can explain the noise... also noticed after i turned the car off (its been about 2 weeks + of trying diff things to start it without success) once i turned the car off gasoline was foggin out the exhaust pipe like the engine had been super flooded i dont know if and how the two can be related but it made me think coolant at first but then i realized the engine was no where near hot enough to have coolant coming out( i just literally got it started heard the noise turned it off)

    Anybody have any idea what can make funky rubber slipping not squeeking high pitched but a low pitched kinda rubber squeak?
  • roger924roger924 Posts: 40
    I just fill up the resivior on my 99 and then start the car once the thermostat opens squeeze the upper radiator hose to force out air pockets
  • roger924roger924 Posts: 40
    timing chain tensioner?
  • 12pops1212pops12 Posts: 2
    I found out that the intrepid overflow bottle has a 3" section where the cap fits on and the rest of the tank is sealed and is used for the purpose of mountig the tab to mount the bottle to the strut tower. Had me going.. It says on the tank itself to use a miller tool to refill...I called 2 dealers and they never heard of a miller tool...Makes you wonder why they want $90. per hour to diagnose your car !!!! They don't know the answers either and... just answer wanted $9 to tell me this !!!!! I talked to my radiator shop guy and he just laughed...takes all kinds to rip you off...
  • tomjch19tomjch19 Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer to your question chadg? I have the same problem.
  • roger924roger924 Posts: 40
    Mine is a 99 so there may be a difference but think about it. The section the cap fits onto has to flow into the rest of the system. If it didnt there would be no need for a pressurized cap, actually you wouldnt need a cap at all.

    Also dodge is really bad about selling specialized tools most dealerships have just refused to sell them to me. Try this site you may find what you are looking for

    http://www.millerspecialtools.spx.com/Main.aspx
  • Hi everyone - new to this site. I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. The fascia and rear bumper needs repainting. I've done this the past two years using Dodge factory basecoat and clearcoat - results have not been good. Can anyone suggest the proper method for painting these TPO surfaces, i.e. surface preparation, adhesion promoters, primer, applying basecoat and clear coat? Thanks!

    Bill Vreeland
    Powell, Ohio
  • Ok I could really use some knowledge of how to get into my timing case... it appears i have to remove the c/s pulley now i cant find any easy to do it but once i started tryin to do so the damn thing started bubbling as if there were some sort of pressurized liquid in there... supposidly when my cam sensor went bad it screwed up somethin in the timing sproket or something so i could really use to get in there to inspect things but i am uncertain of what the hell im doing :-D anybody its a 97 3.5 liter intrepid i just wana peek at things or is it ok to remove the c/s pulley and if so is there anything i need to do before re mounting things... i have a good idea of how to remove the timing belt *(pain in the [non-permissible content removed] from my understanding) but i need to get in there to see the whole shabang any help would be greatly appreciated
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