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Dodge Intrepid



  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    You may have less to worry about if your 3.2 is a 'non interference' engine. If this is the case, as I understand it, the engine will just stop and the pistons will not hit the valves. The problem with the 2.7L engine is that it is an interference engine, coupled with the fact that the guides are not made of respectable material.The site explains it all... at least in regard to the 2.7L engine. If I were you I would follow the recommendations in your manual and talk to your mechanic. When my friends Sebring engine suffered a broken belt/chain, I really became a believer in problems since he was someone I know personally and not some 'web' owner. I am starting to get nervous with my Civic. In fact, I will call the Honda dealer.
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    100,000 miles is quite a few miles, so I am not surprised manufacturers recommend servicing the chain/belt. There is relatively little else that needs to be serviced, as far as the engine is concerned, until the piston rings, valve seals go. Of course, that is asssuming you change the oil and filter at proper intervals and dont abuse the car.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Oh, is the 3.2 a non-interference design? I have experience with two 2.2 liter 4's (Reliant and Omni) that just stopped running, new belts were installed and all was back to good as new. With the Omni, I coasted into the mechanic's garage, because I was right in front of it on my way home from work. Talk about having Providence with me at that time!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,581
    the timing belt manufacturer, the 3.2 IS an interference engine. It's the 3.5 that is not.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Thanks to you guys. I checked the owner's manual for my 3.2 and see the time to change the belt is 100K, not 105K as I thought it was (That's for California cars). I will be at 100K in the next couple of months. Will probably get that belt and pump changed soon.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,581
    and keep us posted. I'd be interested to know how much something like that ends up costing. I wonder if I should just go ahead and have the chain, guides, and water pump replaced on my Intrepid as a precaution? Even if you ended up destroying the 3.2 in your ES, it would probably be worth replacing. However, I hear that the 2.7 is so expensive to replace that in my case, it would probably make my car a total!


    I wonder if they make metal timing chain guides that you can replace the plastic ones with?
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Has anybody changed the 3.2 spark plugs and wires themselves as is recommended at 100K? What should I look out for if I do this myself? Thanks, guys.


  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,581
    changed my plugs back around the 51,000 mile mark, but not the wires. From what I've heard, the wires should actually last indefinitely, but "indefinitely" might be an awful long time! I know they call for 100K miles between tuneups, but I was doing so much short-distance, stop-and-go driving back then that I ended up needing new ones prematurely.
  • 2000 Intrepid, 2.7 engine. Problem is: the a/c, heater blend door will close or open on its' own periodically. Cold air will be blowing, then you can hear the blend door move and hot air comes out for a few seconds or sometimes a few minutes. Eventually it corrects itself. My mechanic says there was an error code "45" for a blend door, but all circuits checked out. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Not exactly that problem, but a similar one recently. The fan would run (I could hear it), but little air stream would come from any vent. The windows progressively fogged up on the cold night, and it was difficult to see. It stayed that way when I reached the destination several hours later. The next morning, all was fine and has stayed fine for the past two months. Seems like a computer gremlin?
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Feel like I'm at the Republican National Convention ("fear and loathing, fear and loathing, opinions masquerading as facts, etc.."). 3.2 liter Intrepids--like my 2000 ES--have a timing belt (not a chain) that is inspected as part of scheduled maintenance. I was alerted that my belt was showing signs of "glazing" but was otherwise "OK". I decided to have it replaced at about 70,000 miles, if memory serves.
    My Intrepid is about to turn 110,000 miles, so I"m mindful of having them inspect components at each regular oil change. As I've shared in the past--I continue to use synthetic oil and a high quality filter and I've spaced my oil changes to 5000 miles. I've yet to put a quart in between oil changes which surprises me.
    My water pump has never been changed--nor indicated it's needs to be--so I don't think I'd jump to have them all done at once unless it's indicated. As always, making certain that you have regular oil changes and follow some reasonable series of inspections for critical components is the most likely way to avoid problems. Within my extended family the two 2.7 liter engines (in a Stratus and a base level Intrepid) soldier on with no problems.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,581
    how many miles do your family's 2.7's have on them at this point? Mine's still around the 101,500 mile mark. With my 3.5 mile commmute to work, I'm just not racking them up like I used to!
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    most manufacturers recommend changing the timing belt at the 100,000 mile mark. You also have to keep in mind how many years old the car is. I mean, rubber breaks down with age, you dont have to have a Ph.D in organic chemistry to understand that. In the case of the 91 Celica GTS, the car had about 116,000 miles but was 13 years old, way past the life span (in years) of most cars on the road. So its no wonder that the belt was about to self destruct. However, I think its a good idea to follow the manufacturers recommendations. The manufacturer was the one who designed and built the car in the first place. In the case of my friends Sebring, its fact that the chain/belt malfunctioned (breakage or otherwise). No opinion here.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    The 2.7 in my aunt's Stratus is just about to turn 80K. The base Intrepid 2.7, about two years older, is just over 100K. The Intrepid is a 98, the Stratus is a 2000 (if memory serves). We're a large family and have quite a few Chrysler Corp. vehicles in our midst. Some of this is attributable to family history and some to my brother's stint as a Dodge sales manager for 12 years. He's on another career path since 2000. Thought I'd review the unscheduled work I've had done to my Intrepid as a kind of "FYI"...
    *One Infinity Speaker replaced (persistent
    *The pinched gas filler issue from TSB--2003
    I think
    *Noise in right front suspension--2004
    *All belts--2003
    *Door seals (shrinkage) 2004
    *Transmission fluid and filter (twice)
    *Replace OEM Goodyear GA's with Goodyear
    Integras from Sam's Club at 29K.. Replaced
    Intergras with Goodyear GPS tires from
    Sam's at roughly 101K
    *Two sets of front pads--one set of rear--
    lifetime replacement warranty on them.

    Hmm...this has been a useful walk down memory lane. I noticed a question about plugs and wires--I THINK (but am not certain) that my plugs have been replaced. But never the wires. As of today my 2000 ES is 5 years, 4 months old and has 109,650 miles. Trip to Philly and around may bounce me to 110K... I have a four wheel alignment done once or twice yearly. Be well campers!
  • Manual sched B maintenance recommends 48,000 mile transmission service - fluid, filter and differential fluid change. Fluid looks clear and smells clean at 46,000.

    $240 to have this all done at Jiffy Lube. Is this over-priced?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,581
    at a local transmission shop about a year ago. I think he charged me $78.00. And he actually APOLOGIZED for the price, telling me that the price of the ATF+4 was what made it so expensive! I had 3 vehicles done, one right after the other, so I could just pick one up and then drop the other off, and not have to worry about catching rides with friends each time I took a car up there. IIRC, my '79 NYer was around $65.00, and my '85 Silverado ran around $120-130, because it needed a shift modulator or something like that. It was sucking transmission fluid into the vacuum lines, which was then getting into the carburetor.

    I've been a bit more anal about my tranny services though, getting them done every 30,000 miles. My 30 and 60K services were around $100 each, as they were done by a different shop. Well, those guys retired in 2002, and I wasn't too crazy about the new guys running the place, so I took it to a local tranny shop, instead of a general mechanic.

    Anyway, I'm over 101,000 miles now, and no complaints with the tranny...yet!
  • Great. What did the service include? Was it just changing the fluid? Did the service include fluid, filter, and differential fluid?
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Perhaps you recall the fiasco I had with my first transmission fluid change...after two separate lectures to two service managers about +4, they went ahead and filled it with +3. Luckily I noticed it on the receipt and they brought it in, drained, flushed and refilled it. The last refill they used Mercon and an additive which brings it to +4 (or greater) levels. I was flabergasted (especially in light of the previous go round) but even the service manager at Dodge said this is OK. (Even after I put him on the phone with the shop during the first go round and he said to remove the +3 and put in +4). Go figure... In any event, it shifts as well or better and has no "freewheeling" on start up as it occasionally did in the past. Odd...
  • mike372mike372 Posts: 354
    Was the Mercon plus an 'additive' a synthetic blend of trans fluid. I remember when I had the leaks in my transmission lines I went to the local parts store looking for ATF +4 and they tried to sell me a synthetic blend. I didnt buy their story and bought the fluid at a Chrysler dealer. With the Honda Civic, the manual says to only use Honda trans fluid so that is what I buy (its like twice the cost of fluid from the parts store).
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,581
    I know they changed the fluid, filter, and gasket. I'd have to dig up the receipt though, to I dunno what the exact price breakout was. I think there was a charge for the fluid, a charge for the labor, and a charge for a "kit", which I'm guessing includes the filter and gasket. And now that you mention it, I dunno about the differential fluid, either.
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