Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Intrepid



  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    andre, forgive me for being overbearing, but if your battery seems shaky, taking a trip is the best reason NOT to try and stretch the old battery, but the BEST reason to get a new one...unless the wallet is a little light this month, why risk the battery when a new HD batt can be had for under $75, whereas the time lost and inconvenience factor will be worth much more than $75 if you break down in FL...what do you gain by waiting til fall, and what do you lose by having the knowledge that the car will start/run more reliably with a new 5 year batt under the hood???...just thinking out loud, friend... :) :) :) :D :D

  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,590
    next you're going to tell me that I need to go see the doctor about this golf ball-sized fatty lump I have growing on my back! :surprise: Just kidding about that one! :P

    When batteries start to get weak though, don't they usually exhibit a sign of it first? For instance, the car being harder to start? My car starts up just as fine as it did when it was brand-new. Maybe I will resist the urge to tempt fate though, and do it on Saturday before leaving.

    Thanks for the gentle prod, Dad! :)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The last battery that failed on me operated absolutely perfectly up until the day it refused to do a dadgummed thing about starting the engine. ;)
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    Air box or wheel well?
    Which way is the easiest?
    Let everyone know.
    Not the best design for checking/cleaning or tightening the terminals.
    Or swapping the battery out.
    My battery is five years old too.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,590
    on trying to tackle this job tonite, but this morning I had a back spasm. So I may or may not get to it. When I do though, I'll let you guys know which way I went in to get to the battery, and how many things I broke along the way. :P
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    Dude Don't break your back on this. The guy in the garage can change the battery for you faster and cheaper. In my Intrepid the batter is in front of the left front tire. PLEASE!! We've all got better things to do with our time.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Posts: 77
    Read my post of May 5, and the one I just posted tonight. You can probably get away with another 4-5 months, but do you REALLY want an almost 6-year old battery trying to start your car in December? If so, then I hope you 've kept up your AAA membership :P
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    Son, you have received the back spasm as a message from above that you can't go to FL until you change the battery... :D :D ...once you change the battery with a HD batt for the 3.2L engine (I have jumped to the conclusion that there is an HD batt and it will fit in your 2.7L)...BTW, as Pat Host just stated, in an oxymoronic type of way, that a marginal batt will work until it no longer works...quite suddenly at that...if it was a 1 or 2 year old batt, we would not have this discussion...but it is a 5/6 year batt, when you know most batts rarely last over 4 years, and you want us to support your decision to be reckless and travel to FL on a batt you know is dying...what kind of father do you think I am???... :D :D ...your logic, son, is impeccably, impeccably, uh, POOR!!!... ;) ...just some "fatherly advice"...and my words are the words of prudence!!!

  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,590
    it's got 800 CCA, 1000 at 32 degrees. So that's more than the stock battery, which I believe is just a 500 CCA. I'll probably put the sucker in sometime tomorrow. Woulda done it today, but I let one of my buddies borrow the car. It was either that or the Silverado with the leaking gas tank! :surprise:

    I'll let you guys know how it goes, after I put it in tomorrow.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    We await your triplicate!!!
  • Hey, I just picked up a 2004 SE with 12,000 on it for $10,000
    I am just wondering if the problems that I hear about the 2.7 engine should worry me or not. I will definetly maintain it regularly but is there something that I should know that I haven't heard?
    I haven't had it for long but I love it already!
    So anyone I could use some feedback
    Thanks in Advance!
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    100,000 miles at 4:23 PM EDST 6/2/05 :) . Now on to the timing belt and water pump. What do you think for that? Dealer on independent garage?

  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    I would price both, and if the dealer is within $50 of the independent, use the dealer, as the small difference in price is worth their "knowledge" of the vehicle, and they stock parts if anything else goes wrong...over $100 diff is, IMO, too much to pay for their "knowledge", and I would use the independent...
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444

    That makes the dealer look like the better bet right now.

  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    I'm looking for torque specs on the ball joint and control arm /frame bolt.

    Would anyone have any info?

  • rferd43rferd43 Posts: 20
    I have recently found a problem with the gas gauge on my 2000 2.7 Intrepid. While I am driving, sometimes bells start ringing and the gauge needle moves to Empty. Then suddenly, it goes back to its normal reading. Has anyone experienced this problem and if so, do you know a way to fix this annoying noise and erratic behavior? :mad:
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    I had the SAME exact problem on my 2000 Intrepid ES 3.2L...with no relation to any other factor I could determine, my fuel gauge would sometimes just drop to zero, causingthe "low fuel" light to ring, and three seconds later bounce back to full and the bell stopped ringing...could drop and rise 5 times in a minute, or drop once in a week...never found out what caused it, just prayed that it would not occur on the day I gave it back to the leasing company...I assume maybe a bad sensor in the fuel tank, and if it shorts out for a second, no contact is made, gauge does not work, bell rings...because of the instant '"come and go" problem, I thought it was a short or a break in an electrical wire connection, possibly running to a sensor...let me know how you eventually solve it...I thought I was the only one in the world who experienced that problem, but I am not alone... :confuse: :confuse:
  • rferdrferd Posts: 28
    I was told that it had to do with the gas cap but I made sure that it was placed correctly and still does it every once in a while. Maybe someone else will report the problem and perhaps a solution. Let's wait and see. :confuse:
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,590
    and the Trep is still in one piece, more or less. I did have a little lapse in judgement and common sense though, and got into a little tangle with a sliced off piece of metal sign pole that was sticking up out of the ground :cry: , but other than that the car did fine. I figure fuel economy was around 27-28, which, considering we had the trunk packed tight, and three of us, and constant a/c, was pretty good.

    I did swap out the battery on Sunday the 31st, the day before we left. It's NOT an easy job, and I was pretty fed up with the car by the time I was finished. It was bad enough that I started thinking about trading the car in before it came time to replace the battery again! :mad:

    Anyway, you basically have no choice but to jack up the car and take the tire off. You can see the battery from under the hood, but it's too big to bring it out that way, as about half of the battery is actually underneath the headlight assembly. It's best to take the air cleaner assembly loose though, because it does make access to the hold-downs much easier.

    The little plastic panel in the wheel well is pretty easy to take off, but be careful, because it's held in place by these little bolts that go through these clips that are attached to the panel. They're not attached very well, and will fall off. Also, when you're taking off the bolt for the hold-downs, make sure you cover the positive terminal with a rag or something, or you'll most likely be hitting it with your socket, and making a nice little firework display of sparks. I wonder how many people have been electrocuted trying to replace one of these batteries? :surprise:

    I'd say the whole ordeal took me about an hour and a half, maybe a bit more. One reason it took so long though was because I had to keep hunting down tools, and the socket I used had something wrong with the ratchet. It kept going into, for lack of a better word, "neutral". Somewhere between on and off.

    Oh yeah, I'm up to around 107,300 miles now. I saw a couple of Chargers while in Florida, and I really like 'em. I'll probably replace the Trep with one...eventually.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Andre....I find myself wishing I had logged in earlier. It is possible--and easier--to remove the battery from "the top". That's how my battery was replaced in late March--it involved removing the airbox and sliding aside the positive "jump" terminal. At least that's how the mechanics at Strauss Auto did it. Watching them check on my battery later revealed they were none to gentle while doing this either.
    Other items of interest....Just had two service calls in the past two weeks. I noticed some pronounced wear on my "new" driver's side front tire after two extended trips. Turns out my front bearing had gone bad. That was replaced and the tire replaced (under warranty). Tire was actually ok save for a 15" worn stretch on the outer edge--the inner tread was fine. Thankfully they just went ahead and replaced the tire. Two days ago my 2000 ES wouldn't start after driving in a particularly severe rain storm. Turned out that my alternator had been in the process of "dying" for the past few months. Had that replaced and the battery checked yesterday. Thankfully the shop was able to check for the cheaper of several remanufactured units. Alternators--much to my surprise--can get pricey very quickly if you don't check around. Officially mileage is just over 116,000. Feeling OK about these items being replaced relative to the mileage. It's a FWD car that I don't "baby"--frankly I'm surprised I haven't had to replace the CV joints and axles yet.
    Best wishes to everyone--it'll be a busy and high mileage summer for me and my family. I'll likely pass 120,000 before fall.
Sign In or Register to comment.