Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Intrepid



  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,847
    is a 2000, but it had the oil pressure problem. And the tsb wasn't for the sending unit itself, but for some kind of wiring problem that, when it gets hot, it gives it a false read. I do remember it had something to do with installing a vent so that the area that gets hot can cool better.

    Back when I had the problem, the low pressure light would only come on at 500 rpm.

    When I had this problem it really scared me because I have another car, a 1967 Pontiac Catalina, that used to have the same issue. But this car has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed, so when I saw the oil light flicker, the gauge itself verified it! And it would only do it when it was fully warmed up and the oil thinned out, and at low-rpm situations such as idling at a traffic light. In this case it was a simple fix; just put in a heavier oil and bump up the idle a bit. I think Pontiacs back then were known for idling slowly, but I think this one had been played with over the years, and was actually idling TOO slow. I guess it's a miracle it didn't stall out!

    And nowadays, I guess it's NOT a good idea to just put in a heavier-weight oil!
  • khfordkhford Posts: 1
    I noticed yesterday when I was driving home that my left turn signal wouldn't work with my headlights on. The turn signal just stayed on, and didn't blink. My right turn signal worked just fine. I got out and checked to see if I had a bulb out, and they were all fine. I shut off my headlights and the left turn signal started working again. Turn the lights on, it quits working. After I turned off my car and ran my errands, I came back out and it hasn't given me a moments problem. Do I have a bulb about to die, am I about to lose a fuse, is the turn signal flasher going out? Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • So does anyone have any sugesstions??????Dave..
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,847
    Sorry, but my expertise with electrical/electronic crap like that is negligible. I have an '85 Silverado that used to do something like that, and it turned out to be the ECU in the distributor getting overheated. It would sometimes take an hour or more to cool down though. And, well, Intrepids don't have distributors. Wait...did the first-generation models still use a distributor?
  • No it just has the spark box where the plug wires plug into...
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
    Sorry to hear about your troubles. You might try posting in Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email,, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • magneticomagnetico Posts: 1
    i just bought a 2001 intrepid with a 2.7 engine and i had the same oil light problem but i had the engine flush twice inside so it clean up all the sludge and i put in a 5/20 syntetic oil and is been a week everything seems ok no more oil flicking at idle and the engine runs smooth.hope it helps what i did,bye Tony.
  • homerkchomerkc Posts: 113
    I had the flickering oil light 30 mos ago (@ 70K miles). Upon investigating, I learned of the 2.7 enging sludging problem. My car has seen mostly highway miles, AND frequent oil changes, so I didn't think sludge was the problem. I paid the DEALER to look - no sludge, but a new sending unit later, the flickering light was gone. I was advised to use synthetic oil, though, and now at 100K miles, my car (a 2000 bought new) still runs great and gives me 25mpg and a lot of driving pleasure. I planned to replace it this spring but couldn't find anything i liked, so I'll to drive it for another year or so. A friend (a DC employee) says the engine works too hard in a car this size (causing sludging in some cars.) He suggest frequent oil changes - 3K miles SHARP. I will keep using synthetic, though, as it is chemically impossible to turn to sludge at operating temps.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,847
    the first thing the dealer did was talk me into doing that oil flush thing, and they also replaced some part. I think it was the sending unit, but I can't remember for sure. Anyway, it didn't help, and once the car had been driven far enough to fully warm up, the light came back on. The guys at the dealer just never drove it far enough in their test drive.

    It wasn't until they did the TSB for the wiring and the vent that the flicker finally went away.

    As for mileage, I'm up to around 118,000 miles not, and haven't been all that religious about changing the oil. Originally I tried to stick with 3,000 mile intervals, but I got a bit lazy. I rarely let it go more than 4,000 miles, though.

    I've thought about getting a new car from time to time, but I really couldn't find anything I really liked, either. At least, not for the price. I kinda like the Altima and Charger. I also like the Buick Lucerne, even though I don't have enough gray hair yet. :P

    It's probably kinda silly to go out and get the same basic car, but I've thought about trying to find a low-mileage '03-04 Intrepid with the 3.5 and a sunroof. I'll probably just keep my '00 though, until something really major/expensive breaks on it.
  • phardyphardy Posts: 12

    I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with about 110k miles on it. I brought it into my local dealership over 2 months ago because of overheating. After a week in the shop, a service rep told me that during the process of trying to fix my car, they destroyed the engine and they are going to fix the car for free.

    Now check this out. The last time I had an engine replaced (in a different car) it only took 2 weeks to get my car back -- and the car was fixed in "Grandpa's Automechanic Shop". This car, my 2K Intrepid is at a Chrysler/Dodge dealer. I brought it in 2 months ago anf they're still giving me excuses why the car is not ready.

    Folks, I suspect fraud or something else has happened to the car and they are not telling me the truth. What would you recommend?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,847
    What kind of excuses are they giving you? The main reason I can think of that they're taking so long is because it's on their dime. The reason they're not expediting it is because it's not profitable for them to do so. They might be pushing your job aside to make way for other jobs that bring in money.

    A few years back, my uncle needed the transmission in his '97 Silverado rebuilt, by the dealer, under an extended warranty he bought. I'd say it took them at least a month. His tranny went out again a few months ago, out of warranty. We had a local shop rebuild it, and I think they had it out in two days!
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    I take it you did not get a loaner??
    I would talk to a manager...might be best to use your car as a credit on a different car. Better a new car than something they threw back together to get you out the door. I cannot believe they are admitting they ruined a
    motor on an older car with 110000. Have that in writing??
    Good luck.
  • phardyphardy Posts: 12
    They've given me all kinds of excuses. Most of them were:

    "We're waiting for parts.", "We're waiting for parts.", "We're waiting for parts."

    Now it's "the check engine light came on and discovered that "x" sensor went bad." "The check engine light came on and discovered that "y" sensor went bad." "We'll have it to you by Monday.", "We'll have it to you by "Wednesday.", "We had to order another part and it should be here tomorrow.", (two days later) "We just ordered the part and it should be here tomorrow."

    Excuse after excuse after excuse.
  • phardyphardy Posts: 12
    Their "policy" states that they don't provide loaners but they're willing to give me "service credit." No comment comment on that.

    I've spent lots of money on rentals already and cannot afford them anymore so I'm stuck with public transportation in the meantime and it's really become a serious problem. My wife and I came up with an idea and I'll fill you in on it once we try it.
  • mikeyj06mikeyj06 Posts: 1
    I everyone. I am new to this whole forum thing so please bear with me. I have a 2000 intrepid with somewhere around 130k miles on it. I just picked it up from a used car lot about 2 months ago. So far I have had to replace the fuel pump. Now I'm having to replace rod bearings, oil pump, timing chain,passenger window motor,and the lock on the driver side because some punk decided the 4 cd's on the back seat were worth jamming a screwdriver into to get them. I have recently moved to Texas from Florida to start my own business. One in which I do alot of driving (around 200 miles a day). Provided I have a working vehicle to do it in. The good thing is a bought an extended warranty when I got the car, and it covers the motor and drive train so that ends up working out I guess. I do like the car though. It rides great, handles alot better than I thought it was going to considering it's size, and I'm averaging 26 miles to gallon. That's with driving about 40 miles on the highway then finishing the remaining fuel in the tank stopping in front of houses all day. I do home inspections for mortgage companies by the way.

    So if anyone has any ideas on anything I can do to get more power and or gas mileage please let me know.

  • well i had my car fixed.. I had a shop do an engine diagnosis and it was the cam postion sensor.. that is why the car kept stalling out for no reason.. the sensor is about 100 dollars though.. now it runs well again..Dave.
  • On my 1997 Intrepid ES when you turn on the lights only the highlights come on. i cant get normal lights at all. any suggestions? i think its an eletrical problem but not shure.
  • 4ducks4ducks Posts: 8
    When the A/C triggers on, the belts seem to squeal very loudly. We have tried the belt dressing on the belts to no avail. Any ideas?? :confuse:
  • 4ducks4ducks Posts: 8
    Recently, my Intrepid began blowing on high all the time. It even blows on high when you turn the a/c unit off. Any ideas? Maybe a relay or a resistor? Thanks!

    In addition to the above, there is also a high pitch noise when driving. Another problem that started is that you have to jiggle the key in order to make to blower start (windows also don't work if blower doesn't come on). Any ideas???? Don't want to spend a fortune at a shop if there is something else I can try!
  • fred222fred222 Posts: 200
    I posted this question a couple of months ago. I have a 1999 Intrepid ES with the mid grade stereo. Not the base and not the Infinity. The separate power amp has gone out but I do not know where the amp actually is. I will have to re-wire all of the speakers in the car if I cannot find the amp to bypass it. It is a speaker level input amp so I will be able to by-pass it if I can find it.
    When I last posted this question, someone said that the amp was in the trunk near the DS rear wheel well. I did not find it there. Does anyone know for sure where the amp is?
Sign In or Register to comment.