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Dodge Intrepid



  • eewokeewok Posts: 2
    I don't have an owners manual, but after your explaination I was able to replace my lights without any trouble. Thanks.
  • darklodarklo Posts: 1
    thats because its the oil sending unit. $8.99 at auto zone then you need a 16 dollar oil sending unit tool that looks like a axel nut socket. you dont need a dealer the sender is on the left side next to the filter
  • no-- but if you hear of one let me know!!! :mad:
  • kmausskmauss Posts: 74
    Good morning. I am new to these boards, but I find them very interesting. I have a 2000 R/T that I have owned from new and taken immaculate care of -- except of course for the fact that it has been outside in the northeast, a factor over which I have had no control. The car just turned over 60,000 miles (yes I am blessed with a short commute) and the engine sounds as good as the day I drove it off the lot. I've never had a true "engine" problem, though the local Dodge dealer did find lines into the transmission leaking when I had it in for other repairs in December.

    I know that I have a semi-rare car, especially one with this low of miles, and I love the car, so I am loathe to part with it. BUT ---- the past six months it's like a switch flipped labeled "time to fall apart around the engine." I've had to replace numerous and sundry dumb little things such as ignition switches, door lock mechanisms, wheel bearing assemblies, etc, etc. I'm a non-mechanically inclined single lady, so I'm not even attempting to fix any of this myself. It's like being nibbled to death by ducks, and I keep wondering where (if ever) it's going to end. :( And by the same token, how much $$$ do I want to keep putting into a seven year old car?

    I'm just wondering what anyone else's experiences are with Intrepids of this age that have had to spend their life outside in northeast winters. Is my experience typical? Do they just start to fall apart at a point? Would I be dumb to part with it? :cry:

    Many thanks for your opinions!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,589
    I'm just wondering what anyone else's experiences are with Intrepids of this age that have had to spend their life outside in northeast winters. Is my experience typical? Do they just start to fall apart at a point?

    Well, I hate to say it but that whole thing about the body falling apart around a bulletproof engine has been a bit of a Mopar trademark since 1957! :P There was an old joke going around that the Dodge Dart was the worst car ever inflicted upon humanity, because they tended to leak water around the base of the windshield and fresh air intake, and get the front seat passengers' feet wet. But since the drivetrains were so indestructible, people would drive around in these cars, suffering with the water torture, long after most "mortal" cars had had long since blown an engine or transmission.

    As for the Intrepid, well I bought a base model in 2000, and now have about 127,000 miles on it. It started having some minor issues when it was about a year and a half old. Stupid stuff, like the window seals shrinking, power adjust to the passenger mirror failing, the little cover to what would normally be the ashtray in the center console getting loose, etc. Now that I think about it, the power lock actuator in the driver's door went bad, and had to be replaced around 35,000 miles, when the car was only about 13 months old. I used to deliver pizzas part time, so I racked up the miles pretty quick early on.

    Other than that though, I've been pretty lucky I guess. The car now has about 127,000 miles on it, and the closest thing to an engine problem I've ever had was a leaky thermostat housing, which was replaced around 51,000 miles.

    I have heard of the leaky transmission lines running to the radiator being a common problem on the models with the 3.2 and 3.5 engine. I've also heard that power window failures can be somewhat common, although I've been lucky there, too.

    I had to replace the front brake rotors around 99,000 miles, but was able to do it myself. Have you had your battery replaced yet? If not, when that time comes it's going to be a pain in the butt, because it's buried down low in the front passenger fender, between the wheel and the headlight assembly. It took me about 2 hours to replace mine, and it was a big enough pain that I swore I'd either trade in the car before it needed another battery, or just pay the mechanic to do it!

    I'd say overall though, my car has aged fairly well. Most of the irritating stuff popped up between when it was about 1 1/2 to 3 years old, but nothing significant since then. Oh, around 87,000 miles (just shy of 4 years), the oil light came on. Luckily it was a problem with a sensor getting too hot and was fixed for free under a TSB.

    Unfortunately, I can't answer your question as to whether you should get rid of it or not. While the R/T is a fairly rare car (I wish I could've afforded one when I bought mine! And I did come close to trading mine in back in late 2003 for a used '02 R/T the dealer had on their lot), I don't think it's considered a very valuable car. The Intrepid's resale is pretty bad, regardless of the trim level or how well maintained it was. So on the plus side, the car has probably depreciated about all it's going to, so it's not like you have to ditch it immediately to keep from losing any more value.

    But if the car is getting to the point that you just don't trust it anymore, it might be time to sell it and get something newer. It's really hard to put a dollar value on peace of mind. But at the same time, don't fool yourself into thinking that a Honda, Toyota, or whatever is automatically going to be bulletproof after 7 years, either. Often, things just start to go on a car once it gets older, no matter how low mileage it is.

    Anyway, good luck, whatever you decide!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,589
    I just noticed with my Intrepid. I don't drive the car regularly anymore, so I probably don't keep up on this stuff like I should. Anyway, the low washer fluid light comes on every time I start the car, with a ding, although it has plenty of fluid. The power steering pump seems to make a high-pitched grumble for a moment or two in the morning, the first couple times you turn the wheel. And every once in awhile, whenever the power locks lock/unlock, the one in the driver's side back-door makes kind of a sick sound, like a dying Teddy Ruxpin doll.
  • fbandyfbandy Posts: 2
    Has parking lights, no road lights, no head lights, can hold high beam switch up and will have high beams. Release switch and have no head lights. Replaced muti-function switch did not solve problem.

    Any suggestions?
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Could be both low beam bulbs are burned out?
  • kmausskmauss Posts: 74
    Thanks Andre! I haven't been back on the forums much in the past week or two, so I didn't see your reply until just now. At this point, I'm hanging onto it, but it's "on probation." (In other words, it if keeps costing me several hundred dollars per month, it's getting traded.) I still like the car and so far (knock on wood) it hasn't done anything bad engine-wise at all yet, so for now I'm continuing to fix the little stuff and see where we are in another few months. Karen
  • I've changed the bulbs. The bright lights will not stay on either unless you hold it up on flash to pass.
  • I heard the evaporators go bad very quickly. especially in trucks. sounds like poor material.
  • From my 99 shop manual
    Headlamps do not illuminate
    1 No voltage at headlamps-------Repair open headlamp circuit
    2 No ground at headlights-------Repair circuit ground
    3 Faulty Headlamp switch--------Replace headlamp switch
    4 Faulty dimmer switch----------Replace headlamp switch
    5 Broken connection between
    BCM & headlight lamp relay----Repair broken connection
    6 Faulty parking/headlamp relay-Replace relay
    7 Faulty body control module----Replace body control module

    The ground is the black lead from the headlights.
    The relays are located in the fuse box accessed by opening the driver door and opening the cover on the side of the dash.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Thanks for the response dodgeram2...albeit three months later. I suspect if the evaps were that poor it would have surfaced long before 140,000 plus miles. The only thing I've seen in particular was that certain evaporators on earlier minivans were placed in a way that road debris could bounce up and hit them......sounds strange but apparently true. I was prepared for some repairs after 100,000 miles. In any event, I'm in a 07" Pacifica now and enjoying the extra room...
  • I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid ES with about 105,200 miles. i do know that my back breaks are 90% worn and am saving up to fix them. but i have noticed now when i i turn that the steeting wheel squeeks and its kinda high pitched and annoying....does anyone know what this is!???
  • I have found the following websites very helpful and informative and just wanted to pass them on to fellow Intrepid owners who have had these problems or should at least know about them. The link below is about a potentiall major safety issue I myself have experienced.

    For those having Dodge Intrepid, Chrysler Intrepid and Chrysler Concorde 2.7L Engine Problems

    Dodge, Chrysler 2.7L Engine Problems Information and how Consumers Can Fight Back

    Dodge, Chrysler Intrepid, 300M, Concorde, LHS Defective Steering, Premature Problems and More
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    These two sites have been mentioned before and largely discredited because of the inaccurate information.
  • joho4241joho4241 Posts: 4
    I need HELP...
    I have a 96 Dodge Intrepid and the air bag light cames on and when it is on I cannot put the windows up or down.. and the dashboard gets really hot.. after the light goes of the window controls will work...anyone out there with any info?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,589
    well, it looks like my '00 Intrepid is finally getting its first fairly costly repair. It's at the shop now, and I'm looking at about $1000. That's including new front brakes/resurface rotors, new transmission lines (turns out theres THREE of the danged things that run to the radiator, and it's a dealer-only part. :mad: ), a new bearing hub (I think that's what my mechanic called it) in the front right wheel, rotating the tires, checking/adjusting the back brakes, and changing the coolant/hoses.

    Still, the car does have 130,000 miles on it now, and a lot of that is just maintenance crap (brakes/coolant flush/rotate tires), so I guess that's not TOO bad. The mechanic was actually telling me that I could hold off on the coolant and hoses, but I wanted them done. I had the coolant changed back in August 2003, with about 86,000 miles on the car, but they said the hoses should hold out until 150,000 miles. However, back then I drove a lot more than I do now, so 150K miles isn't coming up as quickly as I originally thought it would. And I'd rather err on the side of caution than risk muffing up the engine just to save a few bucks in the short term.

    Still, it's amazing how far coolant/hose rubber technology HAS come. Sure beats the hell out of the old days when you had to change EVERYTHING every 3 years/36K miles!
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Andre, sinking $1000 into your '00 doesn't sound so bad. doing it should keep your I going for a long time. I think you are right about doing the hoses since you are redoing the coolant at this time. Why take a chance of melting all that aluminum? What happened to the transmission lines? Did they corrode (?rust) or what? My '99 has only 114,000 so I want to know about what things I might be facing. Of course, age and not miles can do things to the rubber in the hoses and belts. You are correct, the rubber, including tires have gotten much better since the old days. Everything has been done on mine by the book since new in February 1999. Keep up the good work!

    Ed :shades:
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